Sunday, May 31, 2009

A Dog's Purpose, (according to a 6-year-old)


Today’s entry was written by a veterinarian who was called to attend to an old dog. I thought that you would enjoy this phenomenal article about the thought processes of a six-year-old boy.

“Being a veterinarian, I had been called to examine a ten-year-old Irish Wolfhound named Belker. The dog's owners, Ron, his wife, Lisa and their little boy, Shane, were all very attached to Belker, and they were hoping for a miracle. I examined Belker and found he was dying of cancer. I told the family we couldn't do anything for Belker, and offered to perform the euthanasia procedure for the old dog in their home.

As we made arrangements, Ron and Lisa told me they thought it would be good for six-year-old Shane to observe the procedure. They felt Shane might learn something from the experience.

The next day, I felt the familiar catch in my throat as Belker's family surrounded him. Shane seemed so calm, petting the old dog for the last time, that I wondered if he understood what was going on. Within a few minutes, Belker slipped peacefully away.

The little boy seemed to accept Belker's transition without any difficulty or confusion. We sat together for a while after Belker's death, wondering aloud about the sad fact that animal lives are shorter than human lives. Shane, who had been listening quietly, piped up, "I know why."

Startled, we all turned to him. What came out of his mouth next stunned me. I'd never heard a more comforting explanation. He said, "People are born so that they can learn how to live a good life -- like loving everybody all the time and being nice, right?" The six-year-old continued, "Well, dogs already know how to do that, so they don't have to stay as long."

Live simply
Love generously
Care deeply
Speak kindly


Remember, if a dog was the teacher you would learn things like:

When loved ones come home, always run to greet them.
Never pass up the opportunity to go for a joyride.
Allow the experience of fresh air and the wind in your face to be pure ecstasy.
Take naps.
Stretch before rising.
Run, romp, and play daily.
Thrive on attention and let people touch you.
Avoid biting when a simple growl will do.
On warm days, stop to lie on your back on the grass.
On hot days, drink lots of water and lie under a shady tree.
When you're happy, dance around and wag your entire body.
Delight in the simple joy of a long walk.
Eat with gusto and enthusiasm. Stop when you have had enough.
Be loyal. Never pretend to be something you're not.
If what you want lies buried, dig until you find it.
When someone is having a bad day, be silent, sit close by and nuzzle them gently.
Being always grateful for each new day and for the blessing of you.

ENJOY EVERY MOMENT OF EVERY DAY!

Until next time,

Teia

Saturday, May 30, 2009

A Guide to House Training Your Puppy


This entry was prompted by a request from someone who met my dad in the grocery store while he was picking up some dog food for the dogs of a family mom was house sitting for. This lady had just picked up her first puppy and she didn't know how to house train him. Dad told her the information contained in this post and I thought that there were probably many more people who could use the information too. So, for all you first time puppy owners, here's a guide to house training him.

Dogs are probably the only animals in the world who love unconditionally, with their whole heart, body and soul. There are many stories of dogs saving the lives of their owners, of warning people of danger or of seeming to know when an owner is sick or in pain. Some dogs have been trained to diagnose cancer and detect oncoming heart attacks and epileptic seizures in humans.

If you've decided to get a puppy, or you've recently brought one home, congratulations! You will have a loyal friend and companion who will enjoy your company, never be too tired to go for a walk with you and who will always be on your side, no matter what!

One note of caution though. A dog is only as well-trained as he has been taught to be by his owner. It is important that your puppy understands as quickly as possible what is considered acceptable behavior in your home and what is not.

You need to decide early on if you will allow your puppy to get on your furniture. Also decide where she can sleep and what she can chew on.

So house training your dog now, while your dog is still a puppy, is the best way to ensure that she/he is a welcome and happy member of your household.

The crate method is one of the fastest and most humane methods of house training your puppy.

But, first, here are some do's and don'ts for house training your puppy:

DOES:

Do be accessible to your puppy. If you are going to be gone for long periods of time during the training period, then do not give the puppy full access to your house. Put him in an area which you have prepared for accidents.

Do limit the amount of food your puppy has throughout the day. If it's hot outside, make sure your puppy has enough water to drink, because if she becomes dehydrated from lack of water, you could come home to a dead or very ill puppy. Also remember that what goes in, will come out so be prepared for puddles when you come home.

Do praise your puppy every time he or she does what you expect him/her to do. Your puppy wants to please you, and he/she needs to learn what behaviors create praise from you.

Do be consistent. You will only confuse your puppy otherwise.

Do be realistic. Your puppy may not be capable of being completely house trained until he is at least six months old. I had a lot of trouble learning where to go. I was born in the winter and trained to go outside on the snow. When the snow melted, I was confused and didn't know where I was supposed to go. So, I held it as long as I could then just went where ever I was when I couldn't hold it any longer. Eventually I learned that I could go on the grass or the gravel outside, but not before mom and dad got frustrated. As they learned to understand me, they finally came up with a solution that made us all happy.

DON’TS:

Don't reprimand your puppy when he has an accident. It's going to happen and if it does, it means that you didn't get him outside in time. Just clean it up and move on.

Don't use the crate as a means of locking your puppy up for long periods of time, or as a punishment.

Don't let your puppy go to the bathroom anywhere except his/her designated area while you are training him/her.

Why the crate method works: Dogs are naturally fastidious animals and they don't like to eliminate where they sleep or eat. Therefore, if your puppy sleeps in the crate, she/he will not use the crate as a bathroom unless they have an accident because they couldn't go elsewhere.

First things first:

Puppies need to urinate shortly after they eat, drink, play, chew, run or walk. Depending on the breed, size, temperament and age of your puppy, this can be within 15 to 30 minutes.

1. Keep a record, for a couple of days, of the times your puppy needs to go. This will help you to learn his natural schedule and make the training process easier.

2. Plan your "walking" schedule around your puppy's needs. From the time your puppy is about ten or 11 weeks to six months old, he/she should be walked between five and ten times a day. Once your puppy is between six months and 11 months old, this will drop to around four to six times a day. And when he/she is an adult, walking your dog two to four times a day will be sufficient, depending on the breed and temperament of your dog. Remember to take along several clean pickup bags to pick up after you dog has a bowel movement. It is not courteous or sanitary to leave it behind for others to step in. Turn your pickup bag inside out, put your hand into it and reach down and grasp the stool. As you pick the bag up use your free hand to fold the bag down over the stool. Once the bag is right side out again, release the bottom where the stool is and tie the top tightly closed. In this way you can sanitarily carry the stool to a proper disposal container.

3. Especially after your puppy has spent the night in his/her crate, do not return from your morning walk until he/she has eliminated. (If for some reason you do have to return, put your puppy in his/her crate, and then take him/her out every fifteen minutes or so, until he/she goes.) Make sure you give your puppy lots of praise and affection, once he/she has done what you wanted.

What the crate means to your puppy.

A crate is your puppy's home away from home, his/her sanctuary in times of stress and his "bedroom" at night (if you have chosen not to let your dog sleep with you).

Make sure that your puppy associates his/her crate with positive feelings. Put his/her favorite blanket, chew toys and treats inside the crate. When helping your puppy get used to the crate, leave the door open until your puppy shows no sign of fear of the crate.

The more comfortable your puppy is inside the crate, the less likely he/she will be of soiling it. Never let your puppy out of the crate for bad behavior such as barking, whining or scratching.

How to Get Started:

1. Establish a regular schedule of feeding and going outdoors.

2. Put the puppy in the crate at night, but make sure you take him/her out first thing in the morning and don't go back into the house until the puppy has finished.

3. After the puppy has gone to the bathroom, bring him/her in, and let him play for an hour or so. (Remember not to give your puppy complete run of the house until he is completely house trained.)

4. Feed the puppy.

5. Using the chart you created, take the puppy outside within 15 minutes of the time you know he/she is going to need to go. Don't come back in until the puppy has gone.

6. Bring the puppy in and let him/her play.

7. Put the puppy in his/her crate for a nap.

Repeat this schedule throughout the day.

Yes, this is a lot of work. But the method is effective, it works quickly and your puppy will soon become house broken. As he/she gets older, your puppy will let you know when he/she needs to go to the bathroom. In the meantime, you'll be able to have complete confidence in your puppy.

Until next time,

Teia

Friday, May 29, 2009

Testing a Puppy's Personality


WHAT IS PUPPY TESTING?

Just like humans, every dog has its own personality. This can be determined, in dogs, at a young age. The object of a puppy test is to determine what kind of personality the dog has. Knowing this, allows you to train your dog more effectively.

Some people believe that a puppy test allows you to pick the perfect dog. This is nonsense. It does, however, allow you to pick a puppy which is mentally stable and has an easy-to-work-with personality. From experience, my mom and dad can say that dog training is 70% the owners experience and mentality and only 30% that of the dog. So, having a mentally stable and easy-to-work with puppy does not guarantee that you will have a dog that is easy to train or that will turn out to be a perfect dog. YOU, as the owner, will make a huge contribution to the type of dog you end up with.

CONDITIONS FOR A PUPPY TEST

It's important that the test is performed in a neutral room or space where the dog hasn't been before and where there is no external distraction for the dog.

The optimal age for the test to be performed is when the puppy is five to seven weeks old. At this point, the personality is nearly set, but the dog is not yet fully attached to humans.

The person performing the test should be someone the puppy has not met before. This is necessary so that some parts of the test do not give invalid results.

THE ACTUAL TEST

The test described below is the well-known Campbell test.
(See http://www.seefido.com/html/campbell_s_test.htm for scoring information)

This is not the only test that can be used as several others exist.

With this test, the puppy is scored on five criteria:

* Social attraction.

* Facility to follow.

* Reaction to orders.

* Social domination.

* Acceptance to being lifted.

For the “social attraction” test, the testing person sits a few feet from the puppy and observes how the dog reacts: Does it come? If it comes, is the tail carried high or low? Does he scout his surroundings? Does he run the other way?

When testing the “facility to follow,” the tester will put the puppy next to him and then walk away. Does the dog follow or not? Does she follow and jump up at the test person and even try to bite his ankles? Does she follow from a distance? Does she wander off on her own?

The “reaction to orders” test requires that the puppy be put on his back and held down on the ground by placing a hand flat on his chest. Does the puppy protest heavily, try to turn over and try to bite the hands of the testing person? Does he initially protest but calm down later? Does he remain quiet or does he try to lick the tester’s hands?

With the “social domination” test, the tester will sit down next to the puppy and just stroke him. Here he'll observe what the puppy does. Some puppies will try to crawl up on the test person, others will try to bite the hands of the test person and other puppies will lie on their back and lick the hands of the test person. Some puppies will even run away.

For the final test the puppy is lifted from the ground supported only at his chest (this way the puppy doesn't see the test person). Does he struggle and try to bite the hands of the tester? Does he initially struggle but calm down after a while? Does he remain calm and perhaps even try to lick the hands of the test person?

The combination of results lets you determine what personality the dog has. For novice dog owners it is best to pick a puppy that hasn't got an extreme test result, because puppies with extreme results are either very dominant or extremely submissive and will require a handler who is experienced.

Until next time,

Teia

Question - Do you think puppy testing is worthwhile? Leave your comments.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

10 Foods You Should NEVER Feed Your Dog


I think my going to town winter suit is kind of dopey and I want dad to get rid of it. What do you think? Leave a comment.

1. Chocolate.

Chocolate acts as a stimulant to dogs, causing an acclerated heart rate or an irregularl beat.These things could cause your dog to have a seizure or heart attack. It also acts as a severe diuretic, causing frequent urination, vomiting and/or diarrhea. If you suspect that your dog may have eaten chocolate, get her to a veterinarian or an animal hospital immediately.

2. Grapes and Raisins.

Raisins and grapes can create havoc with your dog's digestive tract and kidneys. The amount of raisins or grapes needed to cause problems varies with each individual dog. Symptoms of problems include vomiting, diarrhea and frequent urination. Seek veterinarian assistance.

3. Onions.

Onions can cause a breakdown of a dog's red blood cells. This deprives her body of needed oxygen. If you feed your dog table scraps, make sure that your food was not prepared with onions, as the effects of onion juice and bits of onion are cumulative over time. Symptoms of onion poisoning vary greatly from dog to dog, ranging from loss of appetite and exhaustion to fever, diarrhea and vomiting. Seek veterinarian assistance.

4. Macadamia Nuts.

It is not known what compound within macadamia nuts causes the problem, but eating even small amounts can cause fever, irregular heartbeat, seizures, or mild paralysis.

5. Alcoholic Beverages.

Most dog's physiologies are not equipped to handle alcoholic beverages. Most dogs are susceptible to alcohol poisoning and even small amounts can lead to digestive problems or even death. I have heard of rare instances where dogs have consumed alcohol with no lasting effects, however, why take the chance of losing your pet by feeding her alcohol.

6. Bread Dough.

Bread dough is soft, so your dog will probably swallow the dough without chewing it. When the dough gets into your dog's stomach, his body heat will cause the dough to rise. This can cause bloating or vomiting. To further compound things, the rising action of the dough causes the formation of alcohol, so your dog may also suffer the effects listed in the above paragraph.

7. Caffeinated Beverages.

Caffeinated beverages cause the same effects as chocolate. They will negatively affect your dog's heart rate, which can cause cardiac arrest and seizures.
8. Avocados.

Many animals, including dogs, find avocados toxic to their systems. Avocados can damage heart, lung and other essential tissues. Since avocados are the main ingredient in guacamole, it is imperative that you keep any such dips well out of your dog's reach.

9. Pitted Fruits (Peaches, Nectarines, Cherries, and Apricots).

The pits of these fruits contain small doses of cyanide, which can be fatal to smaller dogs. Also, if the pit is swallowed whole, it may become lodged in the intestinal tract, where the blockage will have to be surgically removed. If you want to give your dog this type of fruit as an occasional treat, remove the pit and slice the fruit into pieces that your dog is able to swallow without difficulty. Most dogs swallow soft items without chewing. Therefore, you want to keep the pieces small enough so that your dog will not choke on them.

10. Raw Fish.

Raw fish, especially salmon, can contain parasites, usually fluke larvae. When your dog consumes infected fish, the larvae will hatch in your dog's digestive tract, attaching themselves to his intestinal walls. Symptoms can take up to a week or more to exhibit and usually mimic other canine diseases, such as distemper or parvo virus. The hazard here is misdiagnosis by the veterinarian, leading to an improper or ineffective treatment. If you choose to feed your dog fish, be sure to cook it thoroughly to kill any bad “critters” that could be hiding inside.

Until next time,

Teia

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Teach Your Child to be Safe With a Puppy


It has been said that a dog is “man's best friend” and that a well trained dog can provide much love, fun and security. However, you must remember that a dog is an animal, one that can be dangerous and inflict serious injuries and even cause death. It is, therefore, vital that just as you would train a puppy at an early age, you must educate your children in the correct ways to deal with a canine. ALWAYS remember that when a child and dog are 'loose' together that they MUST BE under adult supervision.

Children must always understand that a dog, especially a puppy, is not a toy, a doll or teddy bear. Children love being cuddled and hugged, kissed and carried around, but they also know that at times they become grumpy and irritable when adults fuss over them too much. Well, a dog is exactly the same. They do not want to be disturbed when eating or resting or sleeping but they cannot say “go away' or cry. When they get grumpy, they may snap at the offender.

Adults must be aware that young children may unwittingly encourage puppies to chase them, often leading to play biting. The puppy sees the child as one of its own and in the excitement of play an injury can occur. So this is another reason why there should always be adult supervision. Older children and even adults can be guilty of over-stimulating an excitable puppy one minute and then telling it off for the same thing a minute later and even worse hitting it the next! Adults should avoid and definitely should not let children play aggressive rough games with any puppy. This may result in an aggressive dog or a dog with behavior problems later on. Likewise, taunting or making a puppy jealous can have serious implications in an adult dog. Remembering its puppy days, an adult dog can misjudge a situation and react in the wrong way.

Children should be encouraged to leave the puppy alone unless it comes to them for attention. If they want to play with the dog, they should call it by name and get it to come to them. Just as humans dislike close face-to-face interaction so do puppies. So, children must learn not to push their faces into the dog’s, because they could risk a painful nip. Children should also be encouraged to put their toys, clothes, shoes etc. out of the reach of a puppy. This prevents the puppy from claiming these items as its own. This solves two possible problems. One, a child trying to pull items away from a dog could get bitten and two, the possibility of the pup swallowing an item leading to a painful (for the dog and the adult’s purse) trip to a veterinarian.

The most important lesson, though, is to teach respect for a living animal. Children must understand the need to give a dog space, let them have quiet time and then when together to be quiet and gentle with one another. The same rules really apply with children interacting with one another. Living with a dog or dogs will enrich their lives as long as they learn to understand canine language. Caring for a dog encourages responsibility and develops empathy. There are so many positives in a child - dog relationship, providing a responsible adult has trained the dog and the child in the correct ways of living together.

Until next time,

Teia

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Cat Breeds: Siamese Cats


The Siamese cat has been in existence for hundreds of years, making it one of the oldest established cat breeds. Even though the precise origins of these cats are in dispute, it is generally suggested that they come from Southeast Asia. A plausible speculation is that they are distant descendants of the King of Siam's revered palace cats. In the late 1800's the first pair of Siamese cats was transported from Siam (now called Thailand) to Britain. Since then, their popularity has increased so much that they are one of today's most admired cat breeds.

There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Apple head type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.

The second variety is the Modern or Wedge head Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.

In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.

Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern, which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age, when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Later, crosses with other breeds developed Siamese-mix cats with points in other cat colors and patterns, including red point, lynx (tabby) point and tortoiseshell ("tortie") point. In the United Kingdom, all pointed Siamese-style cats are considered to be part of the Siamese breed. In the United States, the major cat registry, the Cat Fanciers' Association, considers only the four original colorations as Siamese: seal point, blue point, chocolate point, and lilac point. Oriental cats with color points in colors or patterns aside from these four are considered “Colorpoint Shorthairs” in the American Cat Fanciers’ Association.

Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent. They are a social animal that is very loyal and loving to “their people.” They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for, which is their ability to communicate vocally. Their yowl is very loud and frequently sounds like the cat is hurt and in pain.

It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves quite well. However, your cat will certainly appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases that they are susceptible to as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its usually calm temperament is perfect for seniors, making it a terrific all-around family pet.

Until next time,

Teia

Monday, May 25, 2009

Things You Should Know Before EnteringYour First Dog Show


You have a beautiful pedigree puppy and would like to see if it can become the next Cruft's Champion. What do you have to know and do to start in the dog showing world?

The first thing you should do is visit some Shows and watch what goes on. Do not be afraid to ask those sitting at ringside to explain what is happening. After you have watched a few shows, then enroll in some “Ringcraft Classes.” These classes are offered all around the country and will get you and your dog ready for the Show Ring. In addition to helping you train your dog to stand still while being examined by the judge, they will also help you learn to move the dog in a straight line. You should also join a breed club for your breed of dog, as other members can provide helpful information for beginners.

When you feel confident enough to enter your first show, you can find out which shows in your area are advertised in the “Dog Press.” These papers are available from news agents. There are also sites on the Internet that have all the information you need and you can even enter most shows online. If not doing it all online, you will need to obtain the schedule for the show and also the entry form, which must be filled in correctly and returned to the show secretary before the closing date. To enter your dog you will need to have the information on your Kennel Club Registration Certificate (date of birth, registered name, names of parents and the breeder.)

There are different show classes to enter, ranging from Minor Puppy to Open and Veteran. It is advisable to enter the first class that you are eligible for, which if your dog is less than nine months, will be Minor Puppy. You can enter as many classes as you want, as long as your dog is eligible for that class. For example, if you dog is less than nine months old, you can enter Minor Puppy, Open and Veteran if they are available at the show you are attending.

Before the day of the show, make sure the dog is clean, preferably bathed and without any tangles and knots in its coat. Its ears and teeth should be clean and if necessary the nails trimmed. Different breeds have different requirements for presentation, so make sure you know what is required for your breed.

On the day of the show, make sure you have a bag packed with the grooming equipment you need for your breed, a towel in case the dog gets wet and a show lead and collar. You should also bring a bowl and some water and “clean up” bags in case of an accident. If the show is benched, you will need a benching chain, a non check collar to prevent choking and a blanket. If it is going to be a long day, bring some food and water for the dog. You will need some sort of clip/pin for holding your number, which you wear in the ring. Finally, if you have been sent any paperwork for the show, make sure you take it with you. Some shows have a removal order and if you cannot produce that at the end of the day, it may prove very difficult to take your dog home!

Finally, get to the Show early because it is not fair to you, or your dog, to be rushing in minutes before you are due in the ring. Let the dog experience the atmosphere and you need to get your nerves in check and get ready to enjoy your first show.

Until next time,

Teia

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Should You Get Health Insurance for Your Dog?


You would never consider going without health insurance for your family but what about your dog?

Although many people think it is an unnecessary expense, health insurance for your pet could actually save you money and spare you from making a tough decision between the life of your dog and paying the bills, should a serious health issue arise.

Just like everything else today, Veterinary costs have skyrocketed. When you do not have insurance, you must pay for every visit, whether they are routine or an emergency. This could run into thousands of dollars, so why not get some help?

Just like personal health insurance, health insurance for your dog has annual premiums and, of course, a deductible. The premium price depends on the dog breed and type of policy. If you have more than one pet, you can usually get a discount on each one.

As with the premium, the deductibles vary. Typically it is around $100 a year. There are many policies to choose from, which are based on your dog’s age, breed, lifestyle and pre-existing conditions.

There is a dog health plan to please almost everyone. Some plans cover just about everything, from annual checkups to vaccinations, spaying, neutering and any medications as well as any sickness and, of course, accidents. These policies will be the most costly.

If you can handle the yearly costs of a healthy dog and just want something in case your dog becomes injured or sick, you can get a policy that will cover just these occasions.

Getting a new health insurance policy for your dog is similar to getting one for yourself. Emergency coverage begins as soon as you sign up with your first payment and there is a 30 day waiting period for illness and other routine claims.

When considering health insurance for your dog, be aware that his age will affect the coverage. Most policies cover the dog starting at six weeks of age. On the other hand, you may not be able to get initial coverage for your dog if she is more than eight years old. Once your dog is covered, however, she will be able to retain coverage past eight years of age.

Getting health insurance for your dog should be a serious consideration for any pet owner. Think of it as the normal expense for having your pet. It's well worth it and it will set your mind at ease to know that should your dog need expensive medical treatment to save his life - you will be covered.

Until next time,

Teia

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Budgerigars Frequently Suffer From Scaly Face


Pictured to the left is a healthy male Budgerigar.

Scaly face is a common condition in birds caused by a mite called Knemidocoptes. This scaly face condition is seen mostly in budgerigars and by knowing what symptoms to look for you will be able to provide treatment for your bird much earlier in the onset of an infestation. If the mites are not identified early, the damage could be severe.

Knemidocoptes is a burrowing mite that can cause disfiguring changes of the beak, legs and feet of birds. The mite has a three-week life cycle and stays on the bird the whole time. The mites burrow into the skin and feather follicles around the cere, feet and face where they feed on keratin. As the mites burrow, they leave characteristic honeycomb lesions. The mites are transmitted from bird to bird by close contact.

Although this mite most commonly affects budgerigars, many different species of birds are affected. This mite can affect all chickens, turkeys, finches, canaries, parakeets and parrots. Although the clinical signs of this mite can vary between species of birds, the basic lesions are the same.

Knemidocoptes occurs mostly in birds that have a weaker immune system. Lesions to look for include scaling, crusting and grayish lesions on the skin around the beak, eyes, legs and feet. The mites burrow into the skin leaving large tunnels resulting in the characteristic honeycomb lesion.

In severe cases the beak will start to grow malformed and it might become hard for the bird to breathe. Also, the legs and feet will also become malformed and the bird will become lame. Swollen nail beds and misshaped nails can also occur.

Both male and female budgerigars may be affected, but the disease is most commonly seen in fledglings and younger adults. The lesions usually appear over the course of months and the progression of the disease is slow.

Normally the first lesions to appear are at the corners of the beak. In most cases the condition is confined to the base and top of the beak. Normally the condition does not cause itching in the birds. The fact that the condition does not cause itching is why the honeycomb lesions and the location of the lesions will help your veterinarian determine that this condition is scaly face.

Your veterinarian will usually do a skin scraping of your bird to help confirm the diagnosis. Treatment usually consists of Ivermectin or Moxidectin. Either of these drugs can be given to treat the mites. These drugs can be given in varying forms and doses, so consult your veterinarian before treatment.

By knowing what signs to look for in your budgerigars, you'll be able to catch this condition in its early stages to hopefully prevent further damage and prevent further infestations.

Until next time,

Teia

Friday, May 22, 2009

Cat Breeds: The Ragdoll Cat


Are you thinking about buying a Ragdoll kitten? These cats are renowned for their laid-back character and they are pretty to look at, but before you acquire one you should know a few things about them.

Breed Characteristics

Ragdoll cats belong to the larger cat breeds with their body weight ranging from 8 to 20 pounds. The breed came into existence in California in the 1960's by crossbreeding Persian, Birman and Burmese cats. Kittens are born with a white coat that later develops into various colors: seal, chocolate, lilac, blue and less common lynx, tortoiseshell and flame. Their coat is thick, semi-long and does not require any “special” grooming care, as it doesn't tend to form mats.

Ragdoll cats are very affectionate and good-natured pets. They are so placid that you can manipulate and pull them into almost any position. When picked up, they go floppy and their body sags.

Their trusting and easygoing nature makes them an ideal family pet. They are great companions with almost dog-like affection. They are very gentle with children. However, their lack of aggression works against them, as they seldom defend themselves. They simply lack fighting instincts. The means that Ragdolls, when left to go outside, will become victims of any aggressive cat or dog that they encounter. Your cat could suffer severe injuries or even become a fatality if left unattended outdoors. I recommend that you keep your Ragdoll cats indoors!

Actually, it is a good idea to keep all cats indoors as there are a lot of dangers outside. In addition, your cat could become annoying to your neighbors. Cats love to do their “business” in gardens and as a result, your cat could get into the neighbor’s yard where its presence is not appreciated. Having your cat messing in a neighbor’s yard has created many neighborhood squabbles. When mom and dad lived in an Ottawa, Ontario suburb, they had a cat that loved to go outdoors and particularly loved to go camping. When he had to remain indoors, he became very depressed. Mom and dad were continually getting complaints from the neighbors and the board of directors of the condominium development that they lived in. They decided that they would give the cat to an older couple who had a summer cottage at a lake where mom and dad kept their trailer. The cat loved it there. Interestingly enough mom and dad continued to get complaints from the neighbors and the board of directors. It turned out that the cat in question wasn’t their's at all. However, since the old boy loved his new family and living at the lake, they left him to finish out his years in happiness.

As stated, cats need some stimulation so they don't become bored and depressed. Just like dogs, they need exercise to prevent them from becoming obese and sickly. Therefore, to keep her fit and happy you should get your Ragdoll used to walking on a leash. Just remember to keep your ragdoll away from other cats and dogs while it is walking on a leash.

Ragdoll cats are intelligent and can be easily trained. They love human company and respond well to rewards, so it is quite easy to teach them many tricks.

It is not always a good idea to acquire a Ragdoll kitten if you already have other cats and especially cats displaying aggressive behavior. In this case you would need to keep them separated. However, the Ragdoll will not look for conflicts, so if your other cats have an amicable nature it may not be a problem bringing a Ragdoll into the family.

Ragdoll Care

They don't require any special care or intensive maintenance. The breed doesn't suffer from any special medical conditions and they live to a good age. Many people are hesitant to acquire a Ragdoll because of its long haired thick coat. Compared to Persians and other long haired breeds, they are easy to care for because their coat can be easily maintained by brushing it once a week to remove dead hair.

In conclusion, this blue-eyed beauty will make a perfect pet if you have nothing against keeping cats indoors. Give it enough attention, an occasional brush, a walk on a leash and your Ragdoll will be a happy pet that will give you all the affection you can handle.

Until next time,

Teia

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Saltwater Aquariums


Before I get into the discussion of salt water aquariums, I have to warn you. Salt water aquariums are not for the novice fish owner. Even seasoned fresh water aquarium owners have experienced a great deal of trouble trying to maintain salt water tanks. It is very difficult to regulate these tanks and it takes a lot of effort and patience just to get the tanks fit for fish. One Aquarium shop owner my mom and dad dealt with regularly, when they had aquariums, told them that it is quite common to take a year to get the tank properly stabilized so that you can safely keep marine fish in it. Anyone that tells you that keeping saltwater tanks is as easy as keeping fresh water tanks either is lying or has never owned a salt water tank. One further point I would like to cover is the cost associated with maintaining saltwater tanks. The tanks themselves are about the same price as freshwater tanks. Everything else is much more expensive. The fish themselves can cost anywhere from ten dollars to thousands of dollars each. Now that you know that salt water tanks are a lot of work and expensive, I will go over the type of fish you should start out with.

Did you ever wonder why those beautiful fish tanks that you see in the movies look so much better than your freshwater tank?

The answer lies in the fish! Saltwater or marine aquariums are made to house tropical fish that you find around reefs in the ocean. These fish come in shapes, sizes and colors that make a dramatic impact. Most freshwater fish simply cannot compete with these natural beauties.

If you want these same gorgeous fish in your living room, you can set up and maintain a saltwater tank to house them. Once your tank is stable, you are ready to buy your first marine fish. The key is to choose hardy fish that will last. Saltwater fish are much more fragile and more expensive than their freshwater counterparts.

Some hardy fish you may want to consider for a saltwater tank include damsels, mollies and clown fish.

Damsels are probably the most hardy fish and should certainly be considered for a new tank as well as for beginners to marine aquarium ownership. These fish are fairly inexpensive, are not finicky eaters and can withstand poor water conditions better than any other marine fish. Although they are not the most colorful of fish, they are certainly your best bet until you become experienced and have a stable tank. The only caveat is that some can be aggressive so you should limit yourself to two per tank.

Mollies, the same fish that you use in freshwater tanks, can be acclimated to salt water tanks and are quite hardy. These fish are very inexpensive and a great way to start off your marine tank. If you buy mollies in the pet store from a freshwater tank, acclimate them by dripping salt water into the bag over a period of eight hours or so - removing excess water when the bag gets too full and slowly increasing the salinity.

While damsels and mollies may not be the most beautiful fish, the clown fish is certainly a colorful and interesting fish for your tank. These fish are fairly hardy but a bit more difficult to acclimate to a tank so you may not want to use them as starter fish. Clown fish are territorial but will only be aggressive with other clowns and are good for a community tank. Although clowns do like to live around a sea anemone, they will do fine without one which is good for the beginner since the anemone is fairly difficult to keep.

While starting off your tank with these three types of fish can be fun and exciting, you will eventually want to move on to other fish. Other fish you may want to try include hawk fish, grammas, dotty backs, wrasses and basslets. The fish that are more difficult to keep and should probably be avoided include seahorses, butterfly fish, blue ribbon eels, stonefish, and mandarin fish. Join a fish club that has members with marine tanks and learn from seasoned marine aquarium owners. Once you learn the requirements of marine tanks, you will love the colors and shapes of your new marine fish. Good luck with your new hobby.

Until next time,

Teia

PS You can also restrict your marine tank to different types of coral if you so desire. Make sure to discuss the types of coral and their care with your aquarium shop personnel or with marine fish club members.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Cat Breeds - Persian Cats


The exotic and majestic appearance of the Persian cat captures the attention of cat lovers everywhere, making it one of the most desirable breeds of cats today. Their dense and lush long-haired coat, short legs and broad head with round eyes and flat muzzle faces are distinct physical traits that make them easily identifiable to just about everyone.

According to the Cat Fanciers' Association, (website http://www.cfa.org/) there are seven main categories of Persians. You can visit their web site for specific information on each group and to view pictures.

1. Himalayan

2. Solid Colors

3. Silver and Golden

4. Calico and Bicolor

5. Smoke and Shaded

6. Tabby

7. Parti-color

Within these categories, there are many colors and variations. The many different kinds of Persians that are available permit anyone to pick the perfect companion. However, before running out and snatching up the first Persian you see, there are several factors for purchasing a Persian you ought to consider.

First, give some thought on how this new addition will get along with any pets you already have. Then assess if you are able to take the time to groom this cat properly EVERY day. The next issue might be the hardest thing to decide. That is, narrowing down which of the seven types of Persians you like the most. Once that is resolved, you can determine which color you would prefer. After that, you may have a partiality for the specific sex of your pet. A significant issue to consider is if you intend on entering your cat in show competitions or if you are just looking for a buddy. A show quality Persian will generally cost more than one that you want just for a pet. As a side note to this, many Persian breeders will require you to sign an agreement not to breed any cat purchased from them and others will also request that you not enter your cat into shows, even local ones. Getting a Persian cat that you are allowed to enter into shows and breed can become quite expensive.

Show-quality Persians have an extremely long thick coat, short legs, a wide head with the ears set far apart, large eyes and an extremely foreshortened muzzle. As a result, it is fairly common for Persians to have moderate discharge from their tear ducts. This is easily cleaned and should be maintained consistently by you or another member of your family.

The breed was originally established with a short muzzle, but over time this feature has become extremely exaggerated, particularly in North America. The extremely short muzzle was not recognized by the Persian Breed Standard for some time. Howerver, in 2007 the Persian Breed Standard was altered to reflect the flat face and it now states that the forehead, nose and chin should be in vertical alignment.

Persian cats can have any color or markings including pointed, golden, tortoisehell, blue and tabby. Tipped varieties are known as Chinchilla. Point varieties are called Himalayan in the United States and Colorpoint Persian in Europe.
Since Persian cats have long, thick dense fur, as mentioned above, they need daily grooming. Persian cats need to be bathed regularly, dried carefully afterwards and then brushed thoroughly. Their eyes also need to be checked for problems on a regular basis because some animals have trouble keeping them clean. Likewise, Persians are particularly susceptible to a genetic disease, Polycystic kidney disease, PKD, which causes kidney failure. However, cats can now be DNA screened for the gene that causes PKD, so affected cats can gradually be removed from the Persian gene pool by responsible breeders. Persian cats usually live from 10 to 19 years on average. The Persian cat is the most popular breed in the United States.

If you decide that a Persian cat is going to be your next pet, you have to make another decision. Depending on your personality and time constraints, do you want and are you able to raise a kitten? If you do, then you will want to locate a reputable breeder. This is an important matter because the better the breeder, the better your chance of acquiring a strong and healthy kitten. See if the kitten appears to be properly taken care of and is being raised in clean surroundings. Has a veterinarian done a complete checkup for health problems and is it up-to-date with shots? Is the breeder aware of any genetic conditions that may run in this kitten's pedigree lineage? Remember to obtain a health contract or guarantee from the breeder. An honest breeder will have no problem supplying you with one. Additionally, you will need the vaccination certificate. If the kitten is registered or you are planning to register it, you will need these papers from the breeder too.

Perhaps you are leaning toward an older cat. Adopting from a shelter or rescue group could be a rewarding experience, not to mention saving a life. Just realize that this cat might have been abandoned due to a major health or personality problem. Ask a lot of questions and spend as much time with the cat as you can to determine if it will be a good pet for you.

No matter what cat you ultimately select, by doing your homework and being honest with yourself on your particular personality and situation, picking the perfect Persian can be a fun experience that later grows into a long loving relationship.

Until next time,

Teia

Monday, May 18, 2009

Cat Breeds – The Maine Coon Cat


A great American breed of cat, Maine Coon cats, are rich in history. Following are ten things to make you a little more familiar with this interesting cat.

1. Maine Coon cats are actually the stuff of legends! Some tales have it that this breed is a mix of cat and raccoon, hence the bushy tail and brown striped coat. Another tale proposes that Marie Antoinette sent the ancestors of the breed to Maine in preparation for her flight from France, during the French Revolution. (We all know that she “lost her head” and thus never came to America, but there is no record one way or the other concerning her cats.) What is more likely is that they are a mixture of pre-existing short haired cats and long-haired varieties introduced to America by British, Spanish or Portugese sailors, or even the Vikings. (Fairly recently discovered records indicate that Lief Ericson and Erik the Red visited North America centuries before Columbus sailed.)

2. Maine Coon cats are well suited for the harsh climates of New England. They have thick, glossy coats that are water-resistant, which makes them the perfect cat for cold and snow. And, although their fur is long, it requires very little maintenance. A weekly combing is generally enough.

3. Maine Coon cats are great companions for humans. They tend to be good-natured playful characters, who love to be with human companions. They do not demand a lot of attention, they just like to hang out with their human family. They are relaxed and easy-going cats which retain their kittenish, clown-like playfulness most of their lives. They are probably as close to a dog in personality as a cat can get and still retain its “dignity?” (The quotes and question mark are mine. I don't think cats are dignified, some of them just have a natural aloofness, unlike us dogs who love companionship.)

4. Maine Coon cats are not your average cats, when it comes to appearance. Besides their long coats, this breed is also large and muscular, with a broad chest and long tail. Females grow to about nine to 12 pounds and males are 13 to 18 pounds, on average. The tufting on their heads and ears gives them a lynx-like appearance at times. Their eyes are large, round and expressive, and set at a slightly oblique angle.

5. Maine Coon cats are easily trained and some will even accept walking on a leash if you spend the time with them. They train easily as long as they associate the activity with something they enjoy, such as spending time with you.

6. Maine Coon cats come in all the colors of the rainbow. OK that is a bit of an exaggeration, but they can be found in most colors except chocolate, lavender, ticked tabby and the point-restricted Siamese pattern.

7. Maine Coon cats use their front paws extensively. They can curl their paws around objects to pick them up and even like to play in their water bowls with their toys at times. They can easily learn to open cabinet doors and turn on water faucets with their flexible paws.

8. Maine Coon breeders can be found throughout the world. Attending local cat shows is a great way to find one in your area. You can also contact the national breed organization, the Maine Coon Breeders and Fanciers Association (MCBFA) at http://www.mcbfa.org. Or, look in the ads in the back of Cat or Cat Fancy magazines for breeders.

9. A great way to learn about Maine Coon cats is the book, ““That Yankee Cat, The Maine Coon,”” by Marilis Hornidge. It has great sections containing breed stories, the history of Maine Coon cats, their genetics and breed health care. It also contains many wonderful photographs.

10. The Maine Coon cat’s popularity has had its ups and downs. For instance, in the 1800s, it was a very popular breed and won quite a few honors at cat shows. But, when Persians became more common in North America, the Maine Coon lost many of its supporters. However, since the 1950s, it has steadily regained its popularity. It is an intelligent loving cat which gets along well with both children and dogs, making it an ideal family pet.

You now have 10 interesting facts about Maine Coon cats. Keep them in mind when searching for a new or additional pet.

Until next time,

Teia

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Learning How to Ride a Horse


Learning how to ride a horse can be a lot of fun. Whether you want to ride for the feeling of freedom you get on a horse or you are just a horse lover, it can be very rewarding. With some basic equipment and a good teacher, you can be on your way to having hours of fun.

There are many different styles of horse riding that one can choose to learn. The two main horse riding styles are Western and English. Western style is easier to learn and not as strict or as difficult to learn as the English style. If you are just riding for fun, look for an instructor that will teach the Western style. However, if you think you might be interested in riding for show, it will probably be better to learn the English style. (Western style is used in rodeo events, trail riding and herding livestock, while the English style is used in dressage and show jumping.)

When taking riding lessons, make sure you let your instructor know that you are a beginner. This way they will put you on a horse that is well trained. It is important that you get a horse that is easy to ride, for both your safety and your confidence.

When looking for an instructor, it is best to ask around and see whom people recommend. Do not just respond to an advertisement. Some instructors, (usually professionals) will have teaching certifications and first aid training. Other instructors will have just learned from someone else and will be willing to teach you what they know. No matter who you choose, make sure they have a personality that you get along with. Also make sure that they teach the style you want to learn.

Safely should be your number one concern when learning to ride. Always be sure to wear a helmet in case you fall off. Many people don't wear a helmet when riding a horse, but it should be required apparel because it is over six feet from your head to the ground and depending on where you are riding, there could be large stones present. Also, depending on what you are doing at the time you fall off, you could get accidently kicked in the head by the horse. My dad has never seen a fallen rider stepped on by a horse, but he has seen them clipped by a hoof when the horse tries to avoid the fallen rider. You should also wear long pants so that you do not chafe your legs on the saddle and stirrup straps. It is also advisable to wear riding boots as they fit into the stirrups much better and they also provide strength to your ankles.

The equipment you need for riding the horse is called tack. This includes everything from the saddle to the reins, bridle and stirrups. This can be expensive to buy on your own. Usually the instructor can provide the equipment. It is important that you check over the saddle, bridle and reins before each ride for signs of wear and for a proper fit.

Learning to ride a horse can be a life changing event. It will give you a sense of responsibility, as well as give you a tremendous sense of freedom. By finding a good instructor and a calm horse, you are well on your way.

Remember horses are very powerful animals so always be sure to wear your helmet and ride with friends. Accidents can happen when you least expect them. Dad was on an exercise ride with a group of Royal Canadian Mounted Police recruits. They were going along a trail in the woods near the Ottawa River. The recruit ahead of dad turned around to look at the horse he was leading and didn’t see the low hanging branch in front of the horse he was riding. As he turned to look forward, the branch knocked him off his horse headfirst onto a large rock beside the trail. His helmet saved him from a fractured skull. Two or three seconds of inattention while riding could have been fatal if he hadn’t been wearing that helmet.

Until next time,

Teia

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Unusual Pets - Lovebirds


Lovebirds make wonderful pets. Their exquisite colors and animated personalities easily endear them to onlookers. While every bird has its own personality, there are traits common to all lovebirds, which have made them a popular pet and a great choice for a first time bird owner.

APPEARANCE

Lovebirds have perhaps the most varied coloration among the parrot species. Soft pastels or brilliant hues, you can find lovebirds in nearly any color imaginable - blues, yellows, purples, peaches and so on.

Lovebirds are perfectly sized parrots for most people. They are only 5 ½ to 6 ½ inches and about 42-60 grams. Baby lovebirds, when they are available for purchase, will be close in size to an adult.

LIFE SPAN

Like other parrots, lovebirds have a fairly long life span - although not as long as the larger species. They live 15-20 years. Approximately the same life span as a cat. It is important to understand the commitment you have to make before purchasing a lovebird.

ACTIVITY

Lovebirds are very energetic and inquisitive. They will happily fly about, or sit on your shoulder, during daily activities. They love to chew, so watch them closely when they are out of their cage as they will chew on furniture, electrical cords or any other chewable item. They are not nervous about usual activity and can usually integrate with a family of busy, noisy children with great enjoyment. Lovebirds love to play and are comical to watch whether they are playing alone, splashing in their water dish or playing with your hair and sneaking into your collar.

Your best bet is to buy a hand raised lovebird because it will be tamer than a parent raised bird. While lovebirds are quite fearless (so should be supervised closely around other pets) and they do enjoy playing with people. Gentle and consistent handling will help prevent nipping.

Lovebirds, like other birds, are born to live in a flock, so they will challenge authority for the dominant position. Sometimes headstrong, lovebirds need an owner who is patient and firm. However, lovebirds are not overly demanding in most respects and will learn to be well behaved. They are also content to play alone for periods of time as long as they are given proper space and playthings. As mentioned above, lovebirds are great chewers, so be sure that your pet has plenty of chew toys, or your furniture or the bird's perches will be chewed vigorously.

Lovebirds are very intelligent and can even be 'potty' trained to go on a paper or in a trash can instead of around the house. This will make it much easier to allow your lovebird to enjoy supervised freedom outside the cage without the constant clean up required for other uncaged birds.

VOCALIZATIONS

While lovebirds will learn to mimic the sounds around them, including household noises and other birds, they are not known for mimicking human speech as well as other parrot species. One thing you must know about lovebirds is that some of them are very noisy birds. Some will start early in the morning and continue throughout the day.

Despite this, you will find your lovebird to have a strong personality all its own and it will convey its moods and desires quite clearly.

Before buying your lovebird be sure the owner, breeder or pet store can provide training or other assistance in helping you learn the correct procedures for caring for your new pet. If you are a first time owner of a lovebird, you will probably have a lot of questions. So, make sure that the seller will readily provide any answers you need to properly care for your new pet.

Until next time,

Teia

Friday, May 15, 2009

How to Potty Train Your New Puppy


Many questions arise when you bring your new puppy home.

Such as . . .
How do you potty train your puppy?
What can you do about your puppy when you are at work?
Are there steps to follow when potty training your puppy?

Keep in mind that raising a new puppy is a lot like raising a child. It is a lot of work, they keep you up at night, they get into things and make messes, but your new baby (puppy) also gives you a lot of joy and love.

Potty training a puppy is not that hard.

Here are some proven steps to potty train your new puppy:

1) Purchase a play pen, portable dog pen or kennel.

2) Line part of the floor of the kennel, portable dog pen or play pen with newspaper or puppy pads. In the play pen and the portable dog pen there is room for newspaper/puppy pads on one side and bedding on the other. If you use a kennel, it is a little smaller and your puppy may have a few accidents at first. Generally, dogs do not go potty where they sleep, but when they are very young, they just cannot hold it for long.

NOTE: Using a play pen or portable dog pen is such a great way to potty train your puppy. They are also great for when you are unable to give your puppy undivided attention. You can place your puppy in them and it is a safe place for puppy to play and not get hurt or get into anything that he shouldn't.

3) Keep your puppy in the play pen, portable dog pen or kennel when not attended or when you are not at home.

4) Within 30 minutes of feeding your puppy make sure there are newspapers or puppy pads accessible for your puppy to go on.

5) If you catch your puppy in the act - place your puppy immediately on the newspaper or pads so they can finish there.

6) Do not hit your puppy. They do not respond to cruelty. Instead reward your puppy with treats whenever they go potty properly on the paper or pads.

7) As soon as your puppy has received its third set of shots you can begin putting your puppy outside to go potty. You can move the newspaper outside to help your puppy get used to going outside.

8)After a while (usually 4-6 months), your puppy will be trained to go outside on his or her own.

9) The end result will be that you will get a well trained, well-behaved puppy and you will be a happy owner too!

The first week of potty training your new puppy may be a little trying at times, but you have to remember this is a commitment to a life long friend and your new puppy is getting used to his or her new family.

You really want to be consistent in your training of your puppy. Your puppy will be more easily trained if you follow a routine -- otherwise you will confuse your puppy, cause your puppy to have more accidents and have a much harder time with potty training.

Putting time into your puppy at the beginning of its life will pay big dividends in good behavior later.

Until next time

Teia

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Extra Things to Remember to Keep Dogs Healthy During the Summer


This posting is an addendum to the last posting on dog health. Since there are extra dangers in the summer, I thought I should remind you of them.

Dogs are wonderful additions to a family and are often treated as well as human family members. They become your best friend, companion, or even your furry child. Learning how to care for these beloved pets, especially during the summer's heat, is imperative to their good health and to lowering your veterinary bills.

Keep your dogs hydrated. Dogs can easily become dehydrated during the warm weather and it will happen more quickly depending on the thickness of their fur. Keep the water bowl in a visible place, such as the kitchen, so every family member will remember to check its fullness during the course of the day. If you are out walking, pack a cold water bottle just for your dog and stop often to encourage your dog to drink.

Every vet will encourage dog owners to take dogs for a walk to ensure good health, strengthen their bones, and help keep their nails trimmed, but use common sense during the summer. Shorten the length of your walk or break up a long walk into two shorter sessions especially if the temperature goes above 28 degrees Celsius ( 83 degrees Fahrenheit).

Be aware of the outside temperature and humidity. If you feel hot, do not forget that your beloved “Fido” is walking with a fur coat and will overheat easily. Walking in the early morning or late evening hours, when the sun is low in the sky, will often help keep dogs cooler.

Walk close to your house, so if you sense your dog is having problems you can turn around or call for help. Hiking paths and paved trails are wonderful resources but you will be stuck if your dog collapses in the middle of a trail that doesn't allow cars.

Take your dog's age and overall health into consideration when planning activities outdoors. Older dogs will tire and dehydrate more easily than younger dogs and these changes can appear without warning. Dogs can also develop seasonal allergies which can, in turn, affect their breathing ability, so keep a close watch on older dogs that seem to pant excessively.

Check for ticks daily. Ticks are small hard bodied insects that often carry Lyme's Disease and other tick borne illnesses. These insects are prevalent during the warm weather months in wooded areas or yards with tall grass and if they come in contact with your pet, they will bite the animal and make their way into your home. Obviously, ticks are more difficult to find on dogs with thick fur so really dig your fingers in to feel them and remove them as previously mentioned.

Do not leave any dogs in a locked car. Even with open windows, cars can heat to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit very quickly, which can cause severe trouble or even death for any pet. Note that the temperature inside a parked car will quickly reach more than one and one half times the temperature outside the car. So on a day when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the temperature inside a parked car will be in excess of 120 degrees.

Using your common sense with your dog during the summer will eliminate emergency visits to the vet and will eliminate any stress your dog may feel, making for a much happier family life.

Until next time

Teia

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Keeping Your Dog Healthy


Like people, dogs need to be healthy to enjoy life. Dogs are your friends, companions and often your guardians, but since they are also totally dependent on you for their well-being, it is your responsibility to look after them properly.

One of the most prevalent 'diseases' in dogs these days is one that also affects humans. Obesity. A fat dog is an unhealthy dog and is likely to suffer from arthritis and heart failure. Remember, in the wild, dogs eat fresh meat that they have killed themselves. They also eat certain types of grass and may eat wild fruits like berries if these grow in their natural habitat.

Milk, custard and cake are the worst things you can give your grown dog and, though a puppy may benefit from the calcium in milk, there are commercial milk products available that are especially formulated for a puppy's needs.

Dry dog food, or kibble as it is sometimes called, is said to have all the nutrients that your dog will need for good health, but the more expensive brands are often better. Dogs fed on cheaper brands may constantly chew grass to attempt to settle their upset stomachs because they may be missing something from their diet, or the “fillers” used to bulk up the food contain something your dog is allergic to. Tinned food can be given as a treat. A healthy dog should have a smooth, shining coat, clear eyes and a moist nose. Its breath should not smell foul. It should be slender, though not thin enough to see its ribs sticking out. If your dog's breath is disgusting, it could be due to the tartar on its teeth. Chewing on a big raw bone will help to clean your dog's teeth. Or as an alternative a good quality rawhide bone will also work quite well.

Annual vaccinations for distemper, heartworm, and parvo virus are a must. Kennel cough is not likely to be a problem unless the dog is kept on cement or spends time at boarding kennels. If this is the case, then your dog should also be given a vaccination to prevent kennel cough.

If you notice small white flecks in your dog’s stool, it is a sign of worms, so you should consider administering worm tablets to your dog. Your vet will need to administer the vaccinations, but you can worm the dog yourself. The tablets should be pushed down the side of the dog's mouth until he swallows. If this is too difficult, you can wrap the tablet in a slice of processed cheese or you can crush the tablet into some tinned dog food and offer it when the dog is hungry. Watch to make sure he eats it all.

Parvo virus breaks down the digestive system and eventually affects the heart. It tends to come in outbreaks when people forget to have their animals inoculated. Symptoms include bloody stool and the animal is quickly unable to move and in obvious pain. It almost always fatal. Luckily, it is not transmitted to humans.

Symptoms of distemper include runny eyes and a dry nose. It is rather like flu in humans. Your veterinarian can aid you in getting your dog through this disease.

A dog with worms may have a poor appetite, and will often - though not always - appear to be in poor health with a dry coat that is harsh to the touch. If your dog drags itself along the ground in a sitting position, suspect worms immediately. Worms can sometimes be seen hanging from the anal passage. The problem needs to be addressed as soon as possible, because worms are easily transmitted to humans.

Fleas, which will happily jump from dogs to humans, can be another problem. These bloodsuckers can actually kill a tiny puppy, simply through blood loss. Puppies too young to wear a flea collar may be washed in a suitable preparation from the vet. Towel dry the puppy afterward and keep it in a warm place so it doesn't get cold. Always be sure to keep kennels and yard clean to reduce the flea problem. If they get out of hand, you may need to spray all bedding and surrounding areas to kill the fleas and their eggs.

If you live in a tick prone area, be sure to keep a tick collar on your dog at all times. Mark the renewal date on the calendar so you don't forget to renew it. Your pet's life may depend on it! Check your dog frequently for ticks. They will show up as a dark lump on the dog. Frequently the back end of the tick will stick out of the skin. When you see a tick sticking out of your dog, apply Vaseline over the part of the tick that is sticking out. This cuts off the air supply and the tick will back out of the skin. When it gets completely out, lift it off and kill it so that it cannot reinfect your dog, or you. If you cannot get the tick to come out of the dog, take the dog to a veterinarian, as soon as possible, to have the tick removed before it lays eggs in your dog. If not removed quickly, the paralysis tick can cause death in three to five days. Wood ticks and grass ticks can also have fatal results if not treated. A number of years ago, a member of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police was conducting a search for a missing person in a heavily wooded area that contained many wood ticks. The search lasted about two weeks. Unknown to the member, a wood tick burrowed into the back of his neck. A week after the search ended, the member died. The coroner blamed the death on the wood tick.

If your dog seems to suddenly have weak back legs and falls over often, inspect it immediately for a tick and get it to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Luckily, the tick vaccine works well and quickly and can save a dog that looks like it is gasping its last breath.

With attention to these few details, your pet should live a long and happy life, rewarding you with years of fun and companionship.

Until next time

Teia

Monday, May 11, 2009

Unusual Pets - Chickens


Many cities and towns have laws preventing you from keeping chickens, so before getting one as a pet, check with your city or town office to see what the law is where you live. Most rural areas have no laws regarding chickens, although everyone, particularly your neighbours, would prefer if you do not let them run loose. As a child living in a rural area of Vancouver Island in the Province of British Columbia, Canada, my dad always had a pet chicken. The last one he had, that he left behind when he joined the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, lived to be 13 years old. She was a bantam hen with feathers on the tops of her feet. He called her “Feather Foot” and she followed him around the rural property like a dog. Whenever he was going fishing in the creek running through the property, he would dig worms and make sure that Feather Foot got to eat some before he left.

One year, when she started to brood, he replaced her eggs with several duck eggs. She hatched out four ducklings and it was amusing to see her trying to cover the ducklings with her wings. She proudly strutted around the chicken run with her large “chicks” following along behind. The first time they went swimming in the creek she was quite upset until she realized they could swim. After that she called all the other chickens down to the creek to show them what her “chicks” could do. It was quite a sight to see.

When he came home on his first annual leave after being away for over a year, he went to check on Feather Foot. The moment he entered the chicken run, she came running up to greet him. You wouldn’t think a chicken could have a memory like that, but she sure did.

The one thing that is amazing about a lot of so-called “experts,” is that they do not give credit to animals, birds, fish or reptiles of having any personality, memory or sense of humor. My family has found, from personal experience, that all have these abilities. So, when an “expert” tells you that they do everything they do from instinct, don’t believe him or her. All species have the ability to reason, remember and show their sense of humor, if you just spend time truly watching them and how they react to things. Now, onto today’s posting about chickens as pets.

There are many different types of hens. The silky bantam hens are prolific layers. Some even lay eggs with a pretty, pale-green shell. They make quiet, quaint pets for the children.

Other hens are larger and more robust and come in a variety of colors: black, brown, white or speckled. They all eat bugs, snails and slugs along with their laying pellets - good news if you are trying to reduce the number of these pests!

Chickens can be bought as "day olds" (under a week old) or "week olds" (over a week). You can buy them fully grown too, but they make better pets when bought young. Make sure you buy from a reputable breeder who can tell what sex they are. The neighbors will not be pleased to be woken at dawn by a rooster crowing.

A young chicken will need to be kept inside where it will be warm, until it is older. A newspaper lined cardboard carton with sawdust or straw in the bottom is fine. A day old chick will benefit from the extra warmth of a pretend mother. To make this, push many strips of fabric through a hole in a strong piece of cardboard and hang it so it dangles to the floor of the box. This is a good job for the children. The chick will run straight into it and be perfectly content. Alternatively, you could use a new string mop head.

To make a drinking trough that the chicken will not fall into or tip over, take an empty food can (tin) and hammer a nail hole through each side just under the rim. Fill with water and place a saucer, upside down, over it. Hold the saucer tightly against the can and invert the whole thing quickly and you will see that water trickles out of the holes, but stops when the level rises high enough to cover the holes in the can. It's a fascinating experiment for the children. Another saucer or tin pie plate to hold the special chicken growing mash and a plastic lid to hold a bit of chicken grit are all you will need. Of course, keep the bottom of the box clean and dry.

When the chick gets older, change the food to chicken mash. Then when the chicken is full grown, change the food to laying pellets.

The hen will need a warm, dry place to live outside. An old aviary is fine, but it's not much trouble to hammer in some stakes, wrap wire mesh around them and fasten a piece of plywood over the top. This will keep the hen safe from stray dogs while you are away. It will also keep the hen from flying out.

Remember that a hen is actually a bird and it is natural for birds to roost in trees. Make a perch for your hen by poking an old broom handle through the mesh of its cage at least one meter (3 feet) above the ground. Check on whether your hen is actually roosting. Some hens need to be taught. Dusk is the right time to gently pick up the hen and place it on the perch. It will soon realize what it is supposed to do.

A small drum, box or even a dog kennel filled with straw will make an ideal nest for your hen to lay eggs. If you use a larger dog kennel, it can double as a nest and a night shelter too, with the simple addition of the perch. Or if you have a garden shed, the hen will not mind sharing with a few rakes and spades. If you live in an area where the winters are snowy, it will be best to keep your hen in the barn, a shed or a chicken coop.

As with any hobby, take your time, enjoy and learn along the way! If you do not know anything about chickens, purchase a book from a pet store, an agricultural store or from the Department of Agriculture.

Until next time

Teia

Sunday, May 10, 2009

How to Stop Your Puppy From Jumping Up


The main reason you're likely to have a problem with your puppy jumping up at you is that you actively encourage it yourself!

Go on, admit it, it gives you a lovely, warm feeling when your new puppy excitedly jumps up and makes a fuss of you, doesn't it?

And what do you do in return? That's right, you make a fuss of him right back, don't you?

The signal you give him by doing this is that he's pleasing you and winning your approval. And perhaps you'll not realize that this is exactly what your puppy is looking for and that it just reinforces the behavior.

Pushing him off isn't the answer, because he'll see this as a game. Remember, play fighting is part of a puppy's natural instinct and learning process.

Shouting at him isn't an answer, because he interprets that as getting attention and that's just what he wants and it may get him barking too.

What you really need to do to break the jumping up habit is the exact opposite of what you actually are doing.

That's right. Ignore your puppy. Completely ignore him. Pay him no attention whatsoever. Yes, we know it's hard but it's the only way you'll ultimately break this habit which can be annoying to guests and dangerous for small children.

Ignoring him means no verbal interaction (don't talk to him) and no touching. Turn you back on him and fold your arms to keep them out of his reach.

If your puppy jumps at your back, take a step away from him. If he comes around the front of you, turn your back on him again.

To repeat, don't give him any acknowledgment whilst he is jumping up at you.

As soon as he gets down on all fours and stops jumping at you, go down to his level, make a fuss of him and give him a tidbit.

In other words, reward him for doing what you want him to do and give him nothing he can construe as a reward when he's doing what you DON'T want him to do.

So, to sum up, you want him to understand that four feet on the ground is what will get your attention, two feet on you will not.

It's also important to make sure that any visitors to your house also understand this drill.
It may seem an impossible task now, but if you're consistent with the above exercise, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how quickly your puppy gets the message that remaining on the floor is what will get attention.

Until next time

Teia

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Picking a Farrier for Your Horse


Choosing the right farrier is a very important decision for the health of your horse. The right farrier can help an average horse improve in conformation. However, the wrong farrier could be detrimental to your horse.

A farrier is someone who trims and shoes your horse’s feet. Your horse’s feet should be trimmed and shod at least every two months. Some people recommend different intervals ranging from four to eight weeks, but this interval depends on your horse.

When choosing a farrier, you want someone who is professional and treats your horse well. You need them to keep appointments, explain fees and be well equipped with the tools they need to get the job done.

A great farrier will also take the time to educate you about what they are doing to your horse. A great farrier will put your horse on a regular shoeing schedule and they often have waiting lists of clients.

Before they trim the foot or fit a shoe, the farrier should watch the horse walk and how the hoof contacts the ground. This allows the farrier to know how to correctly trim the foot and where on the foot trimming needs to be done.

Often, it is best to find a farrier that is certified. The American Farrier Association is an association that certifies farriers in the United States. To get certified requires schooling and mentoring over a period of a few years. To find a certified farrier go to http://www.americanfarriers.org/ and click on “Find a Farrier.” There, you can search by country, state or last name for farriers. Each farrier listed has their certification level posted and their city or town of residence.

Although the American Farrier Association is probably the largest organization in the United States, each state often has its own farrier association. There is no law about not being certified, but this is a good credential for the farrier to have. You should definitely ask your farrier if they are certified, or at least find out how much training they have had and their years of experience.

Often the best way to find a farrier is through personal references and by asking local horse owners whom they recommend. Another way to find a farrier is to ask your veterinarian whom they recommend. A good farrier needs to be able to work with your veterinarian to help maintain the health of your horse’s feet.

Finding the best farrier you can will save you money in the long run by keeping your horse healthy and performing well. Once you find a great farrier, stick with him or her and you and your horse will be well rewarded.

Until next time,

Teia