Feeding Your Dog

My "Sister" Gemma

Medical update - I've lost another half pound in the past week. I went to the vet yesterday and had my stitches removed (put in where the biopsies were conducted and the scarred flesh in my groin was removed to aid in the healing process.) We are still waiting for extra tests, being conducted on the biopsies, to be completed. Once the results are in and if no contra-indications are expected, the vet is going to put me on a two week treatment session of Prednisone, a steroid, to promote increased healing and to clean out any lingering infection. Now onto today's post.

Although us dogs have usually been considered as carnivores, we are actually omnivores, which means that we can eat, enjoy and digest various types of food. We do not require as high a protein diet as cats do. We can live perfectly well on a completely balanced diet, but we do enjoy some variety in our meals.

It doesn't matter whether you use a premium complete commercial diet, or choose to create your own food combinations, you must ensure that our diet is well balanced, containing both proteins and carbohydrates. Our diet must also contain fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to ensure optimum health, proper bodily functions, healthy skin and a healthy coat (hair/fur). Fruit and vegetables are beneficial ingredients to include in our diets. I love apples, mangoes, cantaloupe, bananas, watermelon and strawberries and, to a lesser amount, most other fruits and vegetables. When we are convalescing, boneless chicken or fish mixed with boiled brown rice makes a highly digestible meal.

Active dogs need a higher protein diet than those of us that laze around looking pretty. And, of course, overweight dogs, like my “sister” Bandit, should have fewer calories than those of us that still have slim figures.

All commercially prepared packaged food for dogs contains comprehensive lists of ingredients which should be carefully studied before you make your choice of the food for your dog. For example, my food, which keeps me from getting kidney stones, is made by Royal Canin Canada Company under the brand name “Medi-Cal”. The maintenance variety which I eat contains the following ingredients:

Chicken Meal, Oat flour, Pearled Barley, Rye (the grain not the liquor), Chicken Fat, Corn Gluten Meal, Salmon Meal, Tomato Pomace (source of Lycopene), Flax Meal, natural flour, Dried Beet Pulp, Dried Tomato (source of Lycopene), Apple Pomace, Dried Egg Powder, Fish Oil, Cranberry Meal, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Sulphate, Fructo-Oligosaccharides, Taurine, Salt, Vitamins: [DL-Alpha-Tocopherol (source of Vitamin E), Inositol, Niacin, L-Ascorgyl-2-Polyphosphate (source of Vitamin C), D-Calcium Panothenate, Biotin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Vitamin A Acetate, Folic Acid, Vitamin B12 Supplement and Vitamin D3 Supplement], L-Lysine, Choline Chloride, Potassium Citrate, Marigold Extract (source of Lutein), Trace Minerals: [Zinc Proteinate, Zinc Oxide, Ferrous Sulphate, Manganese Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Copper Sulphate, Manganous Oxide, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite], Brewer's Yeast Extract (source of Mannan-Oligosaccharides), L-Carnitine, Beta Carotene, L-Glamine. Naturally preserved with mixed Tocopherols, Rosemary Extract and Citric Acid. It is a slightly acidic dog food that is formulated for optimum nutrition and urinary tract health of active adult dogs.

You must always remember that we have sensitive digestive systems and if you change suddenly from one type of diet to another, that we could end up vomiting or having diarrhoea. You must always introduce diet changes gradually mixing the new food in increasing amounts with the current food over the course of a week or so. In this way we can adapt to the new food without adverse results.

Fresh and canned dog food should be removed and disposed of if left uneaten as it tends to spoil quickly after being expose to air. Bacteria quickly forms and could result in your dog becoming ill. Dried dog foods can remain available all day because they contain natural preservatives.

Adult dogs usually require one main meal per day with a light snack at the other end of the day. Since we are more active during the day, the main meal is probably best served in the morning with the snack before bed. In this way, we have the fuel for our active day and a snack before retiring for the night. When the main meal is served at night, it tends to result in more weight gain as the calories we ingest do not get burned up by activity so they add fat to our bodies for later use during energetic times. Unfortunately, many of us produce more fat than we use up as fuel and thus we become overweight. (More about overfeeding and obesity in a later post.)

Your dog's daily meals can be divided into two equally sized meals if desired as this method doesn't result in your dog getting a large meal before retiring. NOTE! Under NO circumstances should your dog be exercised energetically within one-half hour of ingesting a large meal. If you own a large dog, to aid his digestion, you should raise his food dish off the ground so that he does not have to bend so far down to get his food.

Because I have dry dog food, it's available all day and I can eat whenever I want. As a result, I've become a “grazer,” which means that I eat a little every time I get hungry. However, since my “sister,” Bandit came, things are a little different. Bandit guards the food bowl and if she thinks that I want some food, she will gorge herself on it so that there won't be much left for me. This has resulted in me doing the same thing thing to her. As a result, both of us were getting fat until I got sick. It has also led to growling matches and a few fights, so mom and dad are thinking of changing to scheduled meal times, which doesn't suit my style of eating.

Bones are not recommended as they tend to splinter and can cause internal damage. Cooked bones should NEVER be given to a dog as they splinter easily and often result in tragedy. Raw marrow bones can be given to your dog, but they must be discarded if they start to splinter or if they start to smell like they are spoiling.

We must have access to fresh water at all times because proper hydration is an absolute must have condition. Stainless steel bowls for both food and water are the most hygienic and they are much easier for you to clean than bowls made from other material.

If you are considering a raw food diet for your dog, you should see the following:

“Should Your Pets Eat a Raw Diet? Five Considerations Before You Start” published on this blog on Saturday August 15, 2009 and “How to Prepare a Raw Diet for Your Pet(s)” published on this blog on Friday December 18, 2009. You can access these entries by clicking on 2009 and then the appropriate months or by searching “raw diets” via the blog search capability in the top left corner of the blog page.

Until next time,

Teia

CURING YOUR CAT'S BAD BREATH

Bad breath in a pet is usually associated with dogs, however, if you happen to own a cat with bad breath, you will know that it smells awful. Usually, bad breath is caused by bacteria in the mouth which breaks down protein in your cat's food releasing sulphur compounds into the air. Since sulphur has a foul odour, when your cat opens its mouth this sulphur smell is released. The bacteria responsible for the release of the sulphur smell is the kind which is associated with a buildup of tartar on your cat's teeth. Tartar, which also forms on human teeth, is yellow or greenish yellow in colour and it is made up of minerals in the cat's saliva which adhere to plaque on the surface of the cat's teeth. Once the tartar builds up on your cat's teeth, it becomes very hard and it is difficult to remove. Severe cases will require professional removal, which is quite expensive. The best way to eliminate it is to catch it in its early stage when use of pet toothpaste with anti tartar enzymes can, if used daily, virtually prevent the formation of dental plaque which will, in turn, eliminate the formation of tartar because it will not have the plaque to anchor it to the teeth. There are now cat foods that are designed to reduce the buildup of tartar. Some cat treats apparently have enzymes that will dissolve dental plaque eliminating the formation of tartar. Before considering these foods and treats, consult with your veterinarian to ascertain that these enzymes do not cause other medical problems for your beloved pet.

As mentioned above, if you catch it early enough, that is before the tartar becomes as hard as cement, you may be able to clean the tartar off your cat’s teeth at home. There are several toothpastes available for pets, in several different flavors, which are designed to prevent the formation of plaque and thus prevent tartar buildup. You can remove it with a basic toothbrush, but you will probably find that an electric toothbrush is much better, because the motion of these brushes is better at removing plaque. If you start when your cat is young and easier to handle, you will have more success. Brushing your cat's teeth will not be easy, but it will prevent the buildup of plaque and thus prevent the bad breath associated with the formation of tartar. Note! You must ensure that you use PET toothpaste. Human toothpaste contains chemicals that must be spit out. Since neither cats or dogs can spit like a human, they have to swallow the toothpaste. If you have ever accidentally swallowed human toothpaste, you know that it makes you quite ill. Doing so on a daily basis as your pet would have to do could lead to many very serious maladies.

Some of the bacteria that leads to plaque and tartar buildup can be found in your cat’s diet. Because of this, make sure you feed him premium food and that you brush his teeth or rinse his mouth out after he eats. This way, you’ll get the bacteria out of his mouth before it has time to build up on his teeth.

Another reason for consulting your veterinarian when you detect a bad odour on your cat's breath is that sometimes, in rare cases, the cause of the bad breath could be caused by either liver or kidney disease. So, if you notice bad breath coming from your cat, you should take him or her to your vet. Even though it may be something to do with tartar, it’s better to be safe than sorry. Your veterinarian can pinpoint the problem, let you know what the cause is and how you should go about fixing it.

Until next time,

Teia

CAT HEALTH PROBLEMS

When my dad was growing up in a rural area of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada, cats were hardy animals that seldom suffered any illnesses. They usually passed on from old age, being struck by a motor vehicle on the Island Highway or being shot by an annoyed neighbour. However, over the last forty or so years, with the advent of commercial cat food and “selective” breeding, cat diseases are becoming fairly common. The only one that he can recall, from his childhood, is the first one on my list.

1. WORMS.

All breeds of cats are very susceptible to worms. Tapeworms, roundworms, and hookworms are the most common worms found in cats. Often, kittens are born with worms, or get them shortly after birth. Therefore, if your cat has recently had kittens, or if you have recently obtained a kitten, it is suggested that you consult a veterinarian (vet) about worming your kitten(s). If your cat is lethargic, has trouble gaining weight, or has white specks in its stool, have it checked for worms by a vet. Worms can be eliminated by medication, but if left untreated they can prove to be fatal to your cat.

2. HAIRBALLS.

Although not a disease, hair balls cause health problems in many cats, particularly in cats with long hair. Since most cats spend a considerable amount of time each day grooming themselves, usually by licking their fur or licking their paws and then rubbing the damp paw on their fur, they normally swallow hair in the process. As a result, sometimes the long hair forms into a ball and blocks the cat's intestines, instead of passing through the cat with its stool. If your cat shows signs of straining when attempting to have a bowel movement, particularly if it is also coughing and gagging a lot, take it to your vet as it probably has a hairball. With proper treatment most hairballs can be eliminated. Untreated, hairballs can lead to serious health problems and even death.

The easiest way to eliminate the possibility of hairballs is to brush your cat two to three times a week. This will remove most of the loose hair that could end up in your cat's stomach. Apparently, there is now cat food that is supposed to prevent hairballs from forming. Before considering the use of this food, you should consult your vet. Ingredients ingested to prevent the formation of hairballs could prove to be more harmful than helpful.

3, URINARY TRACT INFECTIONS.

Many cats suffer from urinary tract infections. Interestingly, urinary tract infections are more prevalent in male cats that haven't been neutered, although it also occurs in female cats, but with less frequency. Symptoms to watch out for are:

a. The cat stops using the litter box and starts urinating in other places.

b. The cat appears to have problems urinating and when it goes there is blood in the urine.

c. The cat's urine smells very strong.

I'm a dog and as a puppy and a young adult, I suffered from urinary tract infections and also from kidney stones. My vet determined that my problems were caused by my diet. I was put on a more acidic diet and my problems went away. So, be sure to take you cat to the vet if you suspect it has a urinary tract infection. Your vet can provide medication to cure the infection and recommend ways to prevent infections from reoccurring.

4. FELINE LEUKAEMIA

This disease is actually misnamed. It is not the cancerous blood disease that humans get, but instead it is a highly contagious virus based disease. It is usually fatal., but if you get your cat vaccinated against this disease and continue getting all required booster shots, it should not be a concern. Death from the disease is not immediate, but once contracted the disease will greatly shorten your cat's lifespan. Any unvaccinated cat exposed to the Feline Leukaemia virus will catch the disease. So, be sure to discuss this disease with your vet and arrange for a vaccination.

5. FELINE ASTHMA.

Approximately one percent of the world wide cat population will catch this allergy related disease, which is incurable. However, with proper veterinarian treatment, you cat could live a nearly normal life. Symptoms to watch out for are wheezing when breathing, coughing and laboured breathing. Consult your vet immediately if your cat exhibits these symptoms.

6. FELINE SPONGIFORM ENCEPHALOPATHY (FSE)

This disease is believed to be caused by eating the meat of a cow with BSE or, as it is more commonly called, “Mad Cow Disease.” Since pet food is primarily made for animals that have died, there is a small chance of your cat getting this disease from its food. However, after the last commercial pet food debacle, there are much more stringent rules in place regarding pet food ingredients used in pet food manufactured in North America. Be very careful of pet foods from other locations as their standards may not be as stringent. FSE does not currently have a treatment available, so a painful death is a certainty unless you have your pet euthanized as soon as it is diagnosed with this disease.

7. FELINE DIABETES

One in 400 cats will be affected by feline diabetes, which usually occurs as a Type 2 insulin dependent version of the disease. Symptoms include sudden weight loss, excessive drinking and urination, lethargy and an appetite that is either non existent or completely ravenous with the cat eating 3 to 4 times its usual volume of food. If detected early enough, treatment could result in complete remission. Those cats that do not go into remission can live a fairly normal life with long lasting insulin shots and a low carbohydrate diet. If your cat exhibits any of the symptoms of this disease, get him or her to a vet as soon as possible.

Take your cat for regular visits to your veterinarian. Get all recommended vaccinations and consider making your cat into an indoor cat and you will have a pet that will live a long and happy life with you.

Until next time,

Teia

Cat Behaviour: Understanding Why Cats Fight

If you have a household that contains more than one cat, you probably know that from time to time catfights break out. Even if your cats usually get along, at certain times, they will still fight. While you may not understand why they are fighting, cats have their reasons. Some of these reasons are similar to the reasons that humans have disputes. Cats express their discontent with other cats by picking fights. If you know the reasons why cats fight, it may help you stop your cats from fighting in the future.

Fighting for territory.

Many cats fight because they feel that another cat has invaded their territory, even if it is a cat that has lived with them for a long time. Cats are much more territorial than dogs and the gender of the cat has very little to do with it. Contrary to popular belief, female cats are sometimes just as territorial as their male counterparts. If you have two cats in your home, you might notice that one cat hisses and swats at the other whenever he feels his territory has been invaded. This can also happen if you bring a new cat into the home. The reason for the fight - they are simply defending their territory.

Social ranking.

Male cats frequently threaten and fight with each other for social ranking. Despite what you may think, even neutered males may do this. If you have multiple cats, especially more than one male cat, one cat is usually considered the “alpha male” and will be at the top of the cat hierarchy. Two cats might posture their bodies, then begin howling and screaming at one another. If one of the cats walks away or backs down, then the catfight is usually avoided. However, if neither one wants to back down, then one cat will attack the other by jumping forward and attempting to bite the neck of the other cat. Usually the other cat will fall on his back and try to bite, or scratch the attacker with his hind legs. The two cats might go through this several times before walking away. There are usually no serious injuries sustained in these kinds of fights. You may even notice that kittens or young cats play with one another this way. Most of the time you will not need to interfere. The reason for the fight - setting up or maintaining social ranking.

Aggression.

Cats also fight because of some kind of redirected aggression. This is quite common, especially with indoor cats. Your cat might be looking out the window at another cat or dog crossing “his” yard. Your cat begins to feel territorial and aggressive, but since this other cat cannot be reached, he may instead attack another family cat. The reason for the fight - pent up aggression

Jealousy.

Like all animals, cats can become jealous. It may be jealousy caused by one cat feeling that another is getting more attention than it is. Or is could be that one cat feels that another is getting more treats or better food than it is getting. These type of fights are frequently accompanied by a lot of loud growling and yowling. The reason for the fight - jealousy.

Your Reactions.

If you find your cats fighting occasionally, do not become alarmed, as this is common and quite typical of cats. Most of the time, you will be able to tell whether or not your cats are fighting for “blood” or just playing around. The time to stop a fight is when it gets nasty and it appears that one of the cats is getting hurt. Otherwise, allow your cats to work it out themselves. If you feel the need to stop a catfight, then you should do it carefully. Even the most loving cat can bite or scratch you in aggressive passion. To stop a fight, you should make some kind of loud noise, such as a handclap. Since cats are startled by loud noises, they should both stop to see what is making the noise. You can also spray water on them from a plant mister. This will usually stop the aggressive behaviour.

When you find your cats fighting, you should not punish them. Cats do not understand punishment and fighting is a natural instinct in cats. The best thing to do is only interfere when necessary. If you find your cats are fighting more than they should, it is time that you find out why. Do they fight over a litter box, a food bowl or a prime window location? Make sure each kitty has his or her own “things” and a place to retreat to when they feel overwhelmed by other pets in the house. This will go a long way in preventing real catfights.

Until next time,

Teia

How to Prepare a Raw Diet for Your Pet(s)

In spite of mom and dad’s concerns about raw food diets, these diets seem to be more popular than ever. With that in mind, I chose this article for today’s post.

Before there was such a thing as commercial pet foods, dogs ate table scraps and the leftovers, including bones from on the farm butchering; cats usually lived on the rodents they caught around the house or outbuildings, occasionally supplemented by a bowl of milk or a squirt of milk from a cow’s teat during milking in the barn.

The acquisition of pets by city dwellers and their need for a more convenient means of feeding their pets gave rise to the pet food industry we have today. However, after the pet food disaster of a couple of years ago, more and more people have come to realize the dangers and inadequacies of commercial pet foods.

The Most Highly Touted Benefits of a Raw Diet.

Numerous articles and books have been written about raw pet food diets. In fact, they have become so popular that now commercially prepared raw diets can be obtained in fresh, frozen or dehydrated condition. The most commonly mentioned benefits of raw food diets include increased health and vigour, a much more glossy coat, cleaner teeth and longer, healthier lives.

Cautions that Should be Followed.

Discuss any change in diet with your veterinarian. Ill or aging animals may need to be eased into a raw food diet. You may want to start with lightly cooked food, particularly if their digestion or immune system is compromised in any way. For the safety of your dog, bones should initially be ground or be large enough so the dog will chew off any meat and cartilage but not be able to break and ingest bone fragments.

The "One Hundred Percent Complete" Myth.

Most commercial diets on the market are usually advertised as "100% complete and balanced." This was the case back in the 1970’s when pet food diets did not contain taurine and pets were dying from heart problems because no one realized taurine was an essential nutrient. Now, quietly, taurine is also being added to previously "complete" pet foods. What nutrients will be “discovered” as being essential in the next few years?

As an example in human terms, the cereal Total (R) is advertised as 100% complete -- would you feed your child nothing else for her entire life? I don’t think so! It is nearly impossible for a manufactured food to be 100% complete because we simply don't know everything there is to know about nutrition, either human nutrition or pet nutrition. And, since we do not know enough, how can we manufacture 100 % complete food products?

Diets for Dogs.

Dogs, while technically carnivores, are opportunistic scavengers. They will grab anything that smells good to them and run away to gorge themselves on it. No matter how well trained, most dogs will grab any food item that they can reach on a counter, table or window ledge and some have been known to grab meat off a BBQ. If allowed to run free, they also spend time searching through human garbage for tasty tidbits. A dog's diet can consist of a wide variety of foods; however, meat and bones should still be the primary ingredients. If vegetables are included in your dog’s diet, they should first be blanched and frozen to break down cell walls and release nutrients for the dog to absorb. Carrots are very hard for dogs to digest, so they should be pureed. Since some dogs like fruit, this can be provided to them, but avoid grapes, raisins, nuts and onions, which can be toxic, especially to small dogs. Feed garlic only in moderation. Grains are not required and in fact can be harmful to some dogs. However, if your dog needs to gain some weight, then rolled oats, brown rice, or barley will help. Dogs will also like an OCCASIONAL piece of whole grain bread as a treat, but be warned that this will quickly cause your dog to gain weight and overweight dogs tend to develop diabetes or heart problems more easily.

Diets for Cats.

Cats are completely carnivorous animals, which means that they MUST eat a meat-based diet. Almost all commercial cat diets are completely inappropriate with their grain and vegetable fillers. Obesity, diabetes and irritable bowel disease are some of the most common problems in cats that are continuously fed a dry food diet. You should choose a variety of raw meats and organs to provide a good diet. Most cats like their food ground, however some enjoy gnawing on raw chicken wings and necks.

Keeping the Balance in Your Pet’s Diet.

You do not eat the same thing every day and the same should be true for your pet. They need variety in their diet to obtain the best health benefits. When you first start feeding a raw diet, most likely you will start off with one meat source (most people use chicken because it is readily available and inexpensive). If you can get a frozen mix, like Oma's Pride, your job will be much easier, as it is made up of ground meat, bones, vegetables and organs (for dogs), or a variety of ground meats (with or without bones) and organs for cats. When planning meals for your pet(s), you must remember to balance the ingredients over time so the pet(s) get the full benefits of a raw diet. Meats from different animals, even different cuts of meat from the same animal, will have different nutrient content. By choosing a wide variety of meats and including organs as well, you can achieve balance over time. Add yogurt or cottage cheese (if your pet does not have an allergy to dairy products) and raw or cooked eggs at least once a week.

When feeding raw diets, puppies don't need special diets, however, they will require as much as 10% of their weight in food to start off with, gradually decreasing to the adult maintenance level of 3% by 1-2 years of age.

Working dogs and dogs involved in sporting activities should get 3-5% of their body weight in daily food. Judge the success of your feeding program by body condition which should show a definite indentation in the stomach area. The dog should be active, alert and have a good coat if the diet is balanced and adequate. Good meats for dogs include chicken, turkey, lamb, beef (for most dogs, although some dogs have shown allergic reactions to beef), also duck (for weight gain) and rabbit. Most of these are available from larger grocery stores, butcher shops or raw pet food distributors.

For cats, rabbit, chicken, and small amounts of fish make great choices that are "close" to their natural diet. Do not overdo the supply of salmon or herring as they contain quite a lot of oil and will tend to add weight to your cat if given too frequently. Try to pick less oily fish and keep the salmon and herring for special treats.

Feeding a raw diet to pets is not complicated although it is more time consuming than opening a can or dumping dry food into a bowl. Just follow these general guidelines, check with your veterinarian regularly and read as much about it as you can, and you'll be a pro in no time.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. I like my meat cooked. To me, raw meat tastes awful, so I won’t eat it unless I am VERY hungry. I LOVE table scraps though and I like raw fruit, particularly pieces of apple that have had the skin removed and pieces of cantaloupe and watermelon.

CATS ARE SMART!

If the right definition for the term “Intelligence” is “the ability to acquire and remember information and the capability to use that information while solving different problems”, then the cat is definitely one of the most intelligent animals there is.

Put an adult cat in a room in which she has never been before and watch how she inspects every corner of that room. This detailed search gives her valuable information about the environment, information that can save her life, in some cases. Actually, the curiosity specific to cats never harmed them; on the contrary, it gave them the reputation of having nine lives!

We all know that the ability cats have to inspect surroundings is legendary, but at the same time, it has been proven that this ability is superior to that of any other domestic animal.

The intellectual capacity of the cat is demonstrated by her ability to use information she already has to pass safely through certain situations. Cats are capable of forming “learning methods,” a characteristic that was supposed to belong only to primates.

Cats learn through observation, imitation, trying things to find a solution and of course, mistakes, just like people. The stories about cats being able to open draws or cupboards are many, but there are also cats that can turn on the lights or use the toilet and this is possible only by carefully observing the ones that know how to do these things, their owners. On the other hand, it can be taught by loving reinforced training too.

Considering the fact that the cat is the most intelligent domestic animal, it is very important that the owner knows very clearly the limits of her cognitive processes, because conferring the pet with human motives can cause damage and behavioural problems.

According to animal behavioural experts, a cat cannot reflect upon the past or think in perspective, so punishing her for something she has done only minutes earlier is useless, because the cat is not capable of connecting the punishment with her past actions. In the same way, cats can’t claim revenge for a past punishment. However, they do have memories and they will remember those who were mean to them and avoid them and those who were good to them and respond positively to these people. If they find a way to open a window in the house in which they live, when they want to go out, they will go to that window and open it again. Similarly, if they spend time in a cage or carrier and they learn how to open it, they will do so again shortly after they are placed in this restrictive place.

In conclusion, don’t underestimate the intelligence of your cat! Try to know your pet better and act in such a way that living together can be a beneficial experience for both of you.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. Grandma came home from the hospital yesterday, so dad was tied up getting her settled back in her apartment.

Using Positive Reinforcement to Train Your Cat or Kitten

I’m sorry for the delay in posting this entry, but this month has been very trying. On December 2, my soon to be 89 year old grandmother (dad’s mom) fell in her seniors apartment and broke her left arm at the elbow. She couldn’t get up on her own, but she had a “Lifeline” button on her necklace and she pressed it. This caused her phone to contact an emergency operator who phoned dad. He rushed over to grandma’s and called an ambulance. The ambulance took grandma to the hospital, but they did not have an orthopedic surgeon available, so grandma spent the night at the local hospital and then was sent out via air ambulance to the Royal University Hospital in Saskatoon. She had her operation to pin the broken bones back together on Saturday, December 5, then flown back to the local hospital on Monday December 7. She is recovering nicely. On Thursday December 10, dad got his Windows 7 upgrade and he spent over 8 hours trying to get it properly loaded onto his computer so that the numerous crashes of Windows Vista would be a nightmare of the past. It was not an easy upgrade, as Windows 7 doesn’t use the mail system that Windows Vista used, so dad had to export all his mail contacts to another file and then import them into Windows hotmail. Quite a lot of dad’s software was not compatible with Windows 7, so it had to either be updated or removed before Windows 7 could be loaded. It was not a fun time, but hopefully everything is going to be OK….at least there have been no crashes so far today…unlike Vista which crashed multiple times a day…particularly when dad was trying to add a picture to these posts, or review his “my pictures file”. Finally he can post this entry for me. Enjoy!

Pets make your home more complete by being there to greet you after a hard day at work or snuggling up to you while you sleep. Cats have been termed the most fickle of creatures; however, they are sweet lovable animals if you raise them from infancy. Most cats will recognize you by the sound of your voice and the car you drive. They will particularly know you if you are the one who spoils them the most. Like dogs, cats can be trained. A cat can be trained to come to your call, to bring their toys when they want to play, as well as more domestic issues such as using a litter box. The key to training a cat or kitten is reinforcement.

Reinforcement starts at any age, but it is wise to start when they are still a kitten. Cats cannot distinguish words, but they are very astute at distinguishing the tones of your voice. They will know they have done something wrong just by the tone of voice you use. This is why it is important to use your upset voice when they have done something wrong, otherwise they will become confused. Let’s go back to reinforcement. Reinforcement is either positive or negative. Stern words are a negative reinforcement for a cat or kitten because they typically do not care for harsh tones. Positive reinforcement can be gentle hugs, full body petting, treats, or play time. (If you wonder why I said gentle hugs, it is because many cats become panicky if they are held tightly.)

To train your kitty to come to your call you must repeat her name while she is looking at you. Look right at your cat while you are using a nice tone of voice. Another way to call your cat is to have another sound, like snapping fingers, or clicking noises with your tongue. These typically gain the attention of your cat or kitten so they learn to come when you call.

Litter box training is perhaps the easiest part of having a kitty in your life. It is best to keep them confined to one room, the room you will have the litter box in, to train them. They will learn by you putting them in the box and allowing them to familiarize themselves with the smell. Mom and dad found that during the training period if you leave a small bit of damp litter in the litter box when you change the litter, the kitten will smell this and return to the litter box more easily. Cats by nature understand the feel of litter associating it with dirt. You may have to pick them up when they first begin to go, if they do not understand the litter box, and place them inside. Occasionally a cat does not like the litter you have purchased. They usually show their displeasure by using the floor. If this happens, try a different brand. Another thing that you must ensure is that the litter box is cleaned frequently. Many cats will not use a box that is full of stool and damp clumps of urine soaked litter. Cats are naturally clean animals and they do not like to be dirty. That is why they are easy to litter train and why they spend so much time grooming themselves. Most female adult cats will train their kittens to use the litter box, so it is important they do not leave their mother’s care too quickly.

Food works in much the same way. Once you show them where their food bowls are they will continue to go there. Cats are creatures of habit. Make sure that their food and water bowls are not located near their litter box. You do not like to eat your meals in your bathroom and neither does your cat.


Habits are how you will train your kitty to bring you toys. Some cats will simply meow when they want to play and casually bat their toy. However, if you respond positively by playing with them every time they carry a toy mouse or stuffed toy to you, they will continue to bring the toy without the reinforcement of a treat. For example, a family friend’s kitty, Spooky, brings a stuffed animal to the family friend every time she wants to play. She lays it down near the end of our friend’s couch and meows until our friend recognizes the good deed and begins to play with her.

Cats are trainable, perhaps not to the degree that a dog is trainable, but they can be trained to respond to your voice commands if you are consistent with both the tones and the words you use. Cats will enliven any home and, given a lot of positive reinforcement, they can be just as much fun, if not more fun, than other pets. This is especially true when they give you comfort by stepping onto your lap and begin kneading and purring. These moments can take away a bad day at work within a few seconds.

Cats, by nature, are very independent animals. However, if you make a fuss of them and treat them well, while allowing them to have their own “private time,” they will give you countless hours of love and affection. What more could you want from a pet?

Until next time,

Teia

Tips for Bathing Your Cat

Cats normally do not need help getting and staying clean. They are fastidious about their cleanliness and spend much of their day primping and preening. Cats learn from a very young age to stay clean, as the mother always teaches her young the art of bathing. Cat owners rarely need to give their cats a bath, however, there are some situations where you may find it necessary to bathe kitty. You never know when your cat will get so dirty that she needs a little extra help. If your cat is afflicted with skin allergies or has a flea infestation, you might need to bathe your cat. Sick and older cats may have a difficult time keeping clean, too. You will find that your cat probably resists getting a bath, but you can do it if you are prepared.

Where to bathe your cat.

The best place to bathe your cat is in a small, enclosed room. If you have a sink in your laundry room, that would work perfectly. A deep bathroom sink would also do the trick. The idea is to get your cat in a small area to help him or her feel safer during the process. Another idea is to use a baby tub and place it inside your own bathtub. This might cause an aching back on your part, but may be just the thing for your cat.

Get Your Supplies

You want to make sure that you have everything you need on hand before you begin. It will be almost impossible to stop what you are doing with a struggling cat to run and get a towel or shampoo. You will need several old towels and cat shampoo and possibly cat hair conditioner. Human shampoo, even baby shampoo does not have the right ph value for your cat, so if you think there may be a chance that you could have to bathe your cat, buy cat shampoo and conditioner ahead of time. If you get caught unprepared and you do not have cat shampoo, baby shampoo can be used, but do NOT use it on a regular basis as you could cause your cat to develop skin problems. If you do not have a hand wand attached to your shower, or a removable one you can attach to the tap you are using to bathe your cat, you will need a cup to wet your cat’s hair before applying the shampoo and to rinse off the shampoo. As an alternative, you might even consider using a turkey-basting tool to rinse under the chin, around the neck and between the legs. In addition, if your cat’s fur is matted, you should consider removing these mats before beginning the bath. Trying to brush or comb mats out of a wet cat is very difficult to achieve.

Get the Bath Ready

When you have gotten all of your supplies where you need them and removed any mats from your cat’s fur, you will want to prepare the bath. Lukewarm water works best. Think of the temperature you would use to bathe an infant. That is what you need when you wash your cat. Put about four or five inches of water in the tub or sink. You do not need a lot of water when you bathe your cat--just enough to get the cat wet and do the first rinse. It is also a good idea to place a non-skid mat or folded bath towel in the bottom of the sink or tub before you begin filling it with water. This prevents the cat from slipping on the bottom of the sink or tub.

Ease your Cat into the Water

It is now time for the hard part. You have to get your cat and ease him or her into the water. This may sound easier than it is. Some cats may struggle with you more than others may. Only you know your cat’s personality. The best way to go about doing this is to lower your cat into the water by placing one hand under the cat’s belly and one hand firmly, but gently on the cat’s back. If your cat is still struggling, you might want to wrap a towel around it to prevent scratches. You may be surprised by your cat’s reaction. Some cats will sit there quietly and let you work. Others will be scared and will try to run from you. You will get wet, but you may try holding the cat’s body close to your own while bathing so he or she feels more secure. Never raise your voice or move too fast, as this can send your cat into a frenzy.

Begin the Bath

You can use vegetable oil if you need to remove sticky substances from your cat’s fur, but use it before giving the cat a bath, as the oil will leave a harmless residue on the cat’s fur. After your cat is situated in the water, you can begin to bathe. Work quickly, but gently. The best method for bathing your cat is to start with the head and work your way to its tail. Be careful not to get water or shampoo in your cat’s ears or eyes. If you are treating for fleas, then you will want to follow the directions on the flea shampoo at this point. Wet your cat’s fur before applying the shampoo. You will only need a very small amount of shampoo. If you get too much, you will have to rinse longer. Once your cat has been bathed and all of the shampoo has been rinsed off, check the skin to see if it shows any signs of flaking or dry skin. If dry skin is present, you should use a cat hair conditioner to alleviate this dry skin condition. If you use a conditioner, make sure that it is thoroughly rinsed off to prevent a rash or allergic reaction. The first step in drying your cat is to use a towel to get the majority of the water off. Then, if your cat is not scared of blow driers, you can use this to finish the drying process, after the excess water has been towelled off. Be careful not to set the blow drier too hot. If you do not use a blow drier, then use another dry towel to finish the drying process. When the cat feels dry to the touch, take a comb and carefully comb its hair to ensure all tangles are removed.

If you cannot give your cat a bath, check to see if any of your local groomers or veterinarians provide this service. Depending on where you live, this service could be quite expensive, so you should consider checking around before you need this service to see who provides the best deal. Ask the service provider to give you several references you can check to ascertain the quality of the service and the reaction of the reference’s cat to that service.

Until next time,

Teia

Toys Your Cat(s) Will Love

Do you walk through the pet store, see the many toys available for your cat, and wonder if the expense will be worth it? Cats can be fickle creatures, but they can have a good time with almost any toy. Cats are like children. They go through stages and sometimes need age appropriate toys. They can also get bored very easily. Some suggestions for toys include cat towers, stuffed toy mice, small amounts of catnip, stuffed toy animals, ribbons, plastic balls and paper bags. When mom and dad had cats, they spent as much time darting in and out of an open paper bag or a small cardboard box as they did with any purchased toy. They also enjoyed playing with empty toilet paper and paper towel rolls. A wadded up piece of newspaper tied to a string hung from a doorknob was also a great favourite of their cats.

From an early age, kittens learn to pick up things with their mouth. It is an instinct, just like using their claws. When a cat plays, they like to grab and bite their toys.

Let’s look at the toys listed above. A cat tower is a great way to teach your cat where it is appropriate to climb. It will keep them off the blinds or curtains while giving them hours of fun. There are many styles of cat towers from the two story towers to the ones rising to the ceiling. The answer to your question is, the more levels they have, the more fun and enjoyment they will receive out of a cat tower. A cat will use the tower for play as well as sleep. They like to bat at ropes and other items dangling off the tower as well as going through little tunnels up to the next level. If you have two cats, you will have fun watching them give chase to the top often trying to knock the other off. A cat tower can be practical because they will scratch at it, rather than your furniture.

Stuffed toy mice are also important to any kitty’s playtime. Not all mice are the same; most cats prefer the small leather mice with the multi-coloured fur and long tails. Cloth mice are typically second during playtime. If you find your kitty to be uninterested in toy mice you might want to check the type of mouse you bought her and consider switching to another style of mouse.

Catnip toys are very popular. Catnip will cause your cat to be more rowdy, which can be a plus because they become tired more quickly. Catnip a while before bedtime is a great way to get your cat to sleep for quite a while and allow you to slumber too. Catnip should be given out sparingly. You do not want to give your cat catnip every day because it can adversely affect their behaviour. They can start to depend on it and have mood swings.

Cats like the feel of certain things in their mouth, that is why they chew on paper, plastic and even your blankets. The feel of the material in their mouth allows them to clean their teeth or when they are teething, it helps reduce the pain. A stuffed toy animal can work in much the same way and it will keep them away from other items which could be harmful.

You do not have to go to great expense to entertain your cat, however when you spend a little on toys, you may keep your kitty from getting bored. You can even hide some toys and reintroduce them after a few months to keep from purchasing new ones all the time. Just make sure it is not your pet’s favourite toy or she may find other ways to entertain herself that you do not find amusing.

Until next time,

Teia

How to Pet-Proof Your Holidays

The "end of the year" holidays can present some particular hazards to the health of your pet and consequently to your peace of mind. Here are some ideas that have worked for my mom, dad and us pets to make this time a happy one for all.

Make sure you check your veterinarian's holiday hours and emergency contacts and have the information easily accessible.

Think before you decorate with plants. Cats, dogs and birds will all nibble household plants and many, including mistletoe and some poinsettias, can make your pet very ill. Make sure your holiday greenery (and "red-ery") is out of your pet's reach.

The same is true if you have a Christmas tree. You should put only unbreakable decorations at the bottom of your tree, so there is no danger of your cat batting a glass ball and breaking it, or the pup chewing your grandmother's antique bubble lights. How about some kitty baubles or doggie toys on the lower branches instead?

Or, do what mom and dad did when they had both pets and little ones. They put the tree and gifts into a playpen. That may not stop Kitty, but at least the tree can't fall down as easily when he or she climbs it.

Another oft-forgotten item: if you have a live tree in water, wrap the base so your pets can't decide to take a drink of that water and keep the birds away from the tree as many modern live trees have been sprayed with chemicals that may be toxic to your little friends.

Be very, very careful about candles. Your cat or bird may be enticed by the flicker of the flame, and may singe his whiskers or worse. Place glass "hurricane lanterns" or other attractive covers over candles to protect your home and your pets.

Think ahead to New Years Eve and plan how to keep your pets from becoming frightened by the traditional firecrackers and other noisy merriment. Like me, some dogs may be severely traumatized by fireworks or other loud noises, so be sure to leave them inside if you go out to celebrate.

Pets, especially dogs and cats, may be stressed by the changes in household routine during the holidays, particularly if you are stressed yourself. Some cats and dogs respond to stress by becoming hyper or hysterical and some simply retreat. Plan to spend some special time with your pets to calm yourself and reassure them during this period and if your pet is especially upset with strangers visiting, prepare a "refuge" he or she can go to and escape the "maddening crowd."

To "wrap this up," have a "Meowry" Christmas, and a "Hoppy" New Year!

Until next time,

Teia

PS. This is being posted ahead of the start of the holiday season so that you can include the suggestions in your holiday plans. Birdhouse Publishing and your pet(s) thank you for keeping your pets in mind during this hectic time of year.

Is a Guinea Pig the Right Pet for You?

Guinea Pigs, also called cavies, are lovable furry critters that will bring you a lot of joy. In addition, Guinea Pigs can be a perfect first pet for children because they are easy to care for and more cuddly than a hamster or fish. Following is information to help you determine whether a Guinea Pig is the right pet for you.

If you are thinking about getting a pet for your home, you may at first consider a dog or cat. These animals are perfect for homes if you have a lot of time to dedicate to owning a pet. Dogs and cats need a lot of attention and a lot of space. Guinea Pigs on the other hand are just as cute as dogs and cats, but they do not require near as much space or care. Many people love the idea of Guinea Pigs as first pets for children because they live a lot longer than hamsters or gerbils. In fact, a well cared for Guinea Pig can live up to eight or nine years. Once you own a Guinea Pig, you will be hooked by these cute, sweet natured animals.

When you go to the store to get a Guinea Pig, it is always a good idea to look at them carefully and choose them for their personality. Each Guinea Pig has his or her own personality. Some are more reserved in nature, while others are more outgoing. If you are choosing a Guinea Pig for your child, you want to make sure that your Guinea pig can tolerate being held and petted. Guinea pigs are not known to be aggressive or to bite, but your child will have no fun with a shy Guinea Pig.

Guinea Pigs are social animals and they enjoy the company of other Guinea Pigs. If you are planning to get a Guinea Pig, you might want to consider getting two Guinea Pigs at the same time. Male Guinea Pigs get along quite well with each other if you get them when they are both babies. Male Guinea Pigs will fight with each other if you introduce them after they are grown. Female Guinea Pigs also get along well with each other. It is not recommended that you get a male and a female, unless you want to breed Guinea Pigs.

When looking at Guinea Pig cages, you need to find one that will allow enough room for movement and play. Make sure that your cage has an exercise wheel, to keep your Guinea Pig healthy and active. Guinea Pigs like to stay hidden when they sleep, so make sure that your cage has a place where they can hide. A plastic or wooden structure inside the cage is always a good idea. You will want to add some sort of lining to the bottom of your Guinea Pig cage for easy cleanup. Cedar chips are not recommended, however pine wood chips, newspaper, ground up corn cobs or kitty litter are all fine. You also want to include a large water bottle for your Guinea Pig. If you have two Guinea Pigs consider getting two water bottles. Guinea Pigs love to drink water, so make sure that you give them plenty of fresh water EVERY day.

Some experts recommend adding vitamin C drops to their water. This works well for some Guinea Pigs. However, some Guinea Pigs do not like the taste and will not drink the water. If you do decide to add vitamin C drops to their water, make sure they are staying hydrated throughout the day. If you choose not to include vitamin C drops with their water, you can supplement their diet with fresh fruit and vegetables. Guinea Pigs love fresh vegetables and fruit of all kinds. Just make sure that you do not overfeed your Guinea Pigs and use fruits and vegetables as treats. As far as food is concerned, you will need to feed your Guinea Pigs specially formulated Guinea Pig pellets available at pet stores. Guinea Pigs also needed a daily supply of Timothy hay, available in some pet stores and most farm supply stores, to help aid their digestion.

Guinea Pigs are great pets for all types of homes. When you get a young Guinea Pig, you and your child or children will have to work with it to socialize it. All family members are sure to enjoy these adorable pets for many years to come.

Until next time,

Teia

Who Takes Care of Your Pets When You're Away?

Can your dog wait 10 hours to go for a walk? Will the cat have enough food and a clean litter box if you are away for a week? What if you can't come home Wednesday nights because of a prior commitment? Anytime a pet owner needs to go away on vacation, stay long hours at work or has regular scheduled activities that take them away from home they must consider how their pet will be cared for.

Pets provide entertainment and companionship but are also a huge responsibility. You show respect for your pet by taking its needs into consideration and planning accordingly. Fortunately there are many services available to assist you in caring for your pet during times when you can't personally give them the attention and care they need. What are they? Which is best for your pet?

DAY CARE.

Social animals, like dogs, can suffer emotionally from a lack of attention. If your dog has access to the outdoors they will be able to relieve themselves when necessary but a house-bound dog will physically require a walk or you will come home to an accident on your rug and a frustrated animal. Day care centers provide the needed social stimulation most dogs crave. At the day care your dog will spend time with other dogs and have people looking after its physical needs. If you have a young dog this can be especially important as your dog may become destructive with a lack of supervision and an abundance of unused energy.

BOARDING KENNELS.

If you plan to be away overnight or for longer, your dog or cat may be placed in a boarding kennel. This can be expensive but will ensure your pet is cared for daily and overnight.

IN-HOME CARE.

If you are comfortable leaving your dog at home all day you may find the in-home services of a visitor or dog walker to be sufficient and less costly while still providing personal attention. Cats and other animals may not need daily visits if you come home in the evening but will need some attention if you are away overnight or for several days. Cats prefer their own homes rather than the highly social aspect of day cares or boarding kennels. Other pets, such as birds and reptiles, will most likely do better with in-home care as well. In-home care can be as basic as someone taking your dog for a walk in the middle of the day or as inclusive as having a sitter stay in your home with your pet. Examine your situation and budget when choosing a method of care. Keep your pet's best interests in mind. If you are having someone come to your home be sure they are reputable. Licensed businesses should be insured and bonded when employees are entrusted with entering and locking up your home. See “Ten Steps to Finding the Perfect Sitter for Your Pet” dated March 24, 2009 about things to check when considering this option and also an experience with an in home sitter that was a personal disaster for my mom and dad.

Until next time,

Teia

Declawing Cats

Declawing or onychectomy is a surgical procedure involving removal of claws and should not be confused with a pedicure. Declawing puts the pet in great pain not only during the surgery but also after it. Although it is widely practiced in many countries, it is still considered as an unnecessary mutilation and is illegal in some countries. Another drawback is that this surgical procedure is not reversible.

Before having this surgery performed on your cat, you should understand as many aspects of it as you can learn. The claw is very different from a toenail as it is attached to the toe bone. The last toe bone and the joint are removed along with the claw, during declawing. Nature designed the cat’s body in such a way that everything is used to balance its movement, agility and grace. The main purpose of claws is to defend against an enemy and to get proper grip while walking. By amputating the joint, the whole walk is altered. Besides walking, other behaviours like eating, hunting, gripping, etc. also get changed. Cats that have had their claws removed can no longer enjoy climbing trees and tall objects which also means that they cannot jump from heights. Declawing changes the life of a cat. Some people who have had this procedure performed on their cat even claim that the whole personality of the animal is changed after the procedure. Although medical science hasn’t reported any side effects, many owners have reported physical and emotional complications in their cat after having this procedure done. The recovery is also full of pain and the pet can aggravate the situation by walking too soon after the operation and by scratching in the litter box.

Unlike other animals that walk on their paws, cats step on their toes. And when the last bone and joint are amputated, the animal frequently slips and loses its balance. The shift of weight can also affect the front quarter muscles. The imbalance can be very disturbing for the cat. Some cats even develop secondary contracture of the tendons. Claws are the primary defence for cats. When they loose their claws, they should not go outside, because they are unable to defend themselves. They may also develop a case of insecurity and lose their desire to do a lot of things that they enjoyed before they were declawed. Some cats even develop a tendency to bite, not only strangers but also familiar people and even their owners.

As a natural instinct, cats have a tendency to scratch after they urinate or have a bowel movement. When the claws are missing, some cats develop an uneasy feeling and they start wetting and soiling on rugs, carpets and soft furniture which fills the house with odour. Another thing which actually contributes to this habit is the fact that the cat experiences pain when it scratches the litter in the litter box, so it will choose to do its bodily elimination on a softer surface.

There are many options to declawing. First of all, you should understand that scratching is a natural instinct for cats. The act of scratching is exercise for the animal. It exercises the front quarter muscles and cats also gain pleasure out of the whole act. Nail caps are available to cover the claws. To use them, you will have to fill each cap with adhesive and slip one on each claw. The structure of these nail caps is very soft and the cat can scarcely feel the foreign object. The use of nail caps will save home furniture from further cat scratches. The claws can also be trimmed, but it should be done very carefully. Only the tips should be clipped and not the whole claw, especially the opaque part as that part of the nail contains blood vessels and tissue. As a result of cutting the nail too short, the cat can suffer a lot of pain and there will be a lot of blood loss. If while cutting your cat’s nails you accidentally cut them back too far and bleeding starts, dip the bleeding nail into a container of sulphur. The sulphur will stop the bleeding and act as an antiseptic to prevent infection. Note, if the sulphur does not stop the bleeding, get your cat to a veterinarian as quickly as possible, because too much blood loss could be fatal. When buying a nail clipper for your cat, make sure that you buy one designed for cats. A nail clipper designed for a dog will crush a cat’s claw instead of cutting it cleanly. Before trimming the claws, the cat must be made comfortable by massaging its paws so that it will get used to having its toes and feet held. If you are uneasy about clipping your cat’s nails you can file the ends down, or take your cat to a veterinarian or to a pet groomer to get its nails cut. If you use nail trimming as a method of reducing pet damage, make sure that you have them trimmed frequently as cat’s nails grow quite quickly.

Also, you should provide your cat with a scratching post. If it does not want to use this post to scratch on, put a little cat nip on the scratching post and this should encourage the cat to use it. There are many other options available at your local pet store. You should also train your cat, from an early age, that scratching anything but its scratching post is not acceptable. When you see your cat starting to scratch furniture, carpets, drapes, etc. immediately say “No” firmly and move the cat to the scratching post. Until the cat is trained not to scratch household goods, put the cat into a cat enclosure when you are not home.

In conclusion, declawing a cat should not be considered when there are many other ways to stop your cat from scratching things you do not want damaged. As mentioned above, it is irreversible, painful and will change the personality of your cat, usually not for the better. There are many other options that can solve the problem and none of them lead to disfigurement of your cat. You can even consult an animal behaviour modification specialist. Very few of the people who had their cats declawed that mom and dad talked to were satisfied with the results. Of the many mom and dad talked to, only two said that they would do it again. The rest stated they would find other options.

Until next time,

Teia

Grooming Your Pet Cat

Regular grooming of your cat is vital to keeping it healthy, especially if your cat has long hair. Think of the cat's coat as the fur and skin together: You cannot have a healthy coat unless both the skin and fur are healthy.

It is the nature of most cats to maintain well-groomed coats. If you examine your cat's tongue, you will see little bristles on it that face toward the back of the tongue. Cats use these bristles to groom themselves, often for hours at a time.

Most cats do their own grooming, but they need your help to do a complete job. For example, your cat's tongue cannot reach behind her ears or on top of her head or back. Also, the bristles on her tongue cannot always get through matted hair. That's where you come in.

Grooming a cat, whether it has long or short hair, requires both work and patience. These guidelines will aid an amateur groomer. However, there may be times, even when following these guidelines, when you will not be able to do it yourself and will need professional assistance. This is especially true if you have a long-haired cat that mats badly, or a cat that becomes violent during grooming.

Most cats do not like water and if bathing is necessary you may require assistance from a professional who knows the special handling needed to bathe an objecting cat. Some cats object so strenuously to bathing that you will need to get them sedated. If that's the case with your pet, do not let your groomer do it, let only veterinarians give your pet sedatives of any kind.

When you get a kitten, it should not need to be groomed until it is at least 14 to 16 weeks of age.

When brushing your cat or kitten, always brush with the hair. If you brush against the lay of the hair, you could scratch your cat’s skin. In addition, most cats do not like to have their hair pushed backward. Since you want grooming your cat to be enjoyable for both of you, start at the head and work toward the tip of the tail. On the sides of your cat, start at the back bone and brush toward the stomach. Most cats are ticklish, so be very gentle when grooming your cat’s tummy. If your cat has mats in its hair, use a dematting comb. These combs are available from most pet supply stores. Unless you are well versed in cutting cats’ hair, I suggest that you leave getting your cat’s hair cut to a professional groomer. My mom and dad have owned a number of cats over the years and they never found it necessary to have the hair cut on any of these cats. Brushing is another matter. As long as you are gentle, most cats enjoy being brushed.

Several different types of brushes are available for pets. Some of them are slicker types with wire bristles. Others are pin brushes with thicker metal bristles with rounded tips. Others have bristles with little plastic balls on the ends and still others have bristles just like your own hair brush. Pin brushes are better than slicker brushes because they are gentler on the skin and do not scratch or hurt. All are relatively inexpensive, so use the one that does the best job with the least amount of fuss from your cat. I cannot recommend any specific type of brush, because like dogs, each cat will feel comfortable with a different style of brush depending on their particular coat.

The finale of a thorough grooming is trimming your cat's nails. There is a special nail clipper designed for cat nails. Dog nail clippers are too cumbersome and splinter cats' nails. So, when buying nail clippers, you may want to get a recommendation from your vet. Mom and dad got the nail clippers for their cats from a veterinarian and they were very effective.

Mom and dad found that an overall brushing once a week was sufficient for most of their cats. They had one cat that created a grooming problem. This cat was a little strange. He would walk along the picket fence to avoid getting his feet wet, but whenever he saw the neighbour’s daughter he would jump into the nearest puddle and lie there feebly meowing. She would rush over and pick him up and cuddle him, getting covered in mud, much to her mother’s annoyance. She would pack the cat home and he would lay in her arms with a sappy look on his face and purr like mad. I think he had a crush on her. Fortunately, he enjoyed a bath when he got muddy, so this made cleaning him up a little easier to do.

Until next time,

Teia

Building Housing for Pet Rabbits

Ask most people about pets and you will probably hear a response that talks about dogs or cats. In more rare circumstances a pet owner will be a fancier of guinea pigs, hamsters, gerbils or even more exotic animals such as snakes, spiders or lizards. But there is a growing trend toward smaller mammals, including ferrets, rats and especially rabbits.

Rabbits are unusual in our society because they are one of the few animals that are viewed as food by some people and as pets by others. The number of homes that have indoor rabbits has been increasing at such a pace that there now exists a House Rabbit Society which rescues abandoned and abused rabbits and distributes useful information on keeping rabbits safely and in a healthy manner within a home situation. In Canada, rabbits have been kept as pets for more than 35 years, but people in other countries are quickly learning that rabbits make great pets. They are trainable and they are quiet, which is a big plus for someone living in an apartment.

One feature about a rabbit that interferes with them enjoying free run within a home is their propensity for chewing. Although rabbits can be successfully trained to use a litter box, it is more difficult for them to be convinced not to chew such things as furniture legs and electrical wires. This is why many owners of house rabbits seek an indoor hutch or rabbit cage in which their long-eared pets may be kept when they cannot be supervised. Mom and dad's younger daughter had a pet rabbit, called “Amy,” in the early 1980's. She was very affectionate, but you had to watch her very carefully when she was loose because she loved to chew electrical wires. Extension cords and lamp cords were her favourites. If you took your eyes off her for a second, she would snip an electrical cord with her razor sharp teeth. Fearing for her safety, all electrical cords in the room in which she was free to run were removed. An indoor hutch was made for her so that when there was no one there to supervise her, she had a safe place to live.

According to the House Rabbit Society, a rabbit's housing should provide several things. Rabbits need to be able to fully stretch out in all directions. They require at least two levels, so they may jump up and down for exercise. They need a supply of food, especially hay, as well as water. And, of course, a litter box is needed.

A recent trend in building indoor rabbit hutches is to make a "bunny condo" out of modular storage cubes. Many hardware and home furnishing stores sell 14-inch wire cubes for making modular storage units. These cubes can be used to construct a multilevel rabbit house that provides sufficient space for all the requirements that are specified by the House Rabbit Society.

Building a rabbit condo that is three cubes wide, three cubes high and two cubes deep will create a space measuring more than 28 cubic feet in capacity. This is far more spacious than the average dog carrier that many people use for housing their indoor rabbits.

When building a rabbit condo, several other considerations should be kept in mind. The bare wire floor should never be used by itself, but should be covered with a material such as plywood. For ease in cleaning, covering the floor part of each cube with vinyl tiles, linoleum or rubber mat material is recommended. However, it should not be too slippery a surface, as rabbit feet were designed for hopping on natural earth and grass, not on smooth artificial surfaces.

Numerous plans for rabbit condos are now available across the Internet and most of them would provide all the safety, security and living space a house rabbit needs. Still, they cannot be locked away all the time. Even a rabbit in a fancy condo needs to get out into the house for some good exercise including running and jumping for a few hours every day.

Until next time,

Teia

Walking Your Cat

There's nothing strange about taking a dog for a walk, but taking a cat, well that's a whole new game. However, taking a cat for a walk is not as difficult as it may seem. With a little patience and a very secure cat harness, it is possible.

Many people believe that cats should be kept indoor at all times, so that precious wildlife is protected. Cats can be notorious killers of small animals and birds and keeping them indoors is a great way to keep them under control. But do cats miss being outdoors? Are they being deprived of some inbuilt instinct to hunt and capture their prey?

An easy way to overcome this is to let your cat outdoors, but only if he is fully under control. There are a few steps to take that will eventually allow you to take your cat outdoors, in a safe and secure manner.

Start by purchasing a cat harness and lead. These are available from your local veterinarian or pet supply store. If they don't have any in stock, you can also use a very small dog harness, the size that is appropriate for a Chihuahua.

Introduce the harness to your cat slowly, leaving it near his bed and food bowls on a regular basis, over a period of days. Attempt to put the harness on your cat when he no longer appears interested in it. Continue putting the harness on for a two-week period, until your cat accepts the harness as part of his daily routine.

The final step is to lead your cat outside, for a small period of time. Each day, increase the amount of time spent outside. After a week or two of this, your cat should be very comfortable with the harness and with being outside.

If you have reached this step, congratulations. You can now start to slowly walk your cat for short distances. Fairly soon your cat will be sitting at the front door waiting for you to take it for a walk.

Walking your cat is a great way to relieve his boredom and give him some exercise at the same time. It can stimulate his senses, exercise his body and hopefully save some of your household furniture from scratches. Give it a go. Your cat will thank you for it. Just remember to keep your cat away from dogs because some dogs are not friendly to cats. You don’t want anything to happen to “Kitty” do you?

Until next time,

Teia

Cat Breeds - Bengal Cats

Bengal cats are a hybrid variety of cats which are friendly, very intelligent and alert, but they have a very wild appearance. Their distinct features include markings such as spots and rosettes. This type of cat closely resembles the Asian Leopard Cat and from its taxonomic name the word “Bengal” was derived. Although breeders around the world are attempting to make them look like little tigers, they have no actual relationship with the Bengal Tiger.

Bengals have an average build. Males weigh up to fifteen pounds and females weigh up to ten pounds. The two horizontal lines on the sides of their face, which start from above and below the end of their eyes and go up to the back of their neck, are known as mascara. Their bodies have spotting which is usually rosette in shape, although some have a marbled pattern. Bengals with spots and with more than one colour are the ones which are in greater demand. The colour of spots varies from rust to chocolate brown to cocoa to gray and to black. Their tail, hind legs and fore limbs have symmetrical stripes. Bengal cats win championships in most of the competitions held to award the most exotic pet, because of their looks, intelligence and friendly nature.

Bengals are the result of years of selective crossbreeding techniques. Jean Mill of the United States developed Bengals in the 1970s. They originated by crossing the small Asian Leopard cat with several different types of domestic cats. This gives them the wild and exotic look and the friendly nature. Breeders are still working to develop more qualities in this breed. They are attempting to do this by crossing them with other breeds of domestic cats like the American short-hair, Egyptian maus, Ocicat, Abyssinian and other short-haired cats.

The foundation generations of the filial are the first three generations of Bengals. Most of the males of these generations didn’t have the ability to reproduce. However, the females were able to. The fourth generation produced fertile males and after the fifth generation, they was no need to crossbreed. Instead, breeding was done between two Bengal cats.

Currently there are three kinds of Bengal cats available as pets, the Cheetoh, the Toyger and the Serengeti cat. The Cheetoh is a hybrid cat derived by crossing Ocicat and Bengal, to get a breed of spotted cats. The Toyger is a hybrid cat which is produced by crossing Bengals with domestic cats that have stripes. (The hope here is to develop a cat that resembles a tiger in its markings). The Serengeti cat has been produced by crossing Siamese or Oriental cats to get a cat that looks like an African Serval.

Based on their patterns, Bengals can be named as brown-marbled tabby, brown-spotted tabby, seal mink-marbled tabby, seal mink-spotted tabby, seal sepia-marbled tabby, seal sepia-spotted tabby, seal marbled lynx point and seal spotted lynx point. Other than the aforementioned colours, Bengals also come in blue, grey and black, but these colours are still awaiting worldwide recognition.

Unlike other domestic cats, Bengals are fascinated by running water and are easy to bathe. They are attracted to showers and will instantly jump inside bathtubs.

Bengals are quite vocal so they can “converse” with their owners. They are good at sports and play hide and seek and also learn other games easily. Young ones need human attention and can become bonded to you if you spend at least an hour each morning and evening playing with them. Bengals are attention seekers and always try to be involved in human activities. They will follow you around, but do not like to be placed on laps.

People who have decided to keep Bengals as pets should be aware that they have to spend lots of time with this cat, otherwise it will get bored. And, if the cat gets bored, it can get into a lot of trouble. Bengals have a very high energy level so they need a lot of activity to burn this energy off. Owners who do not have a lot of time to spare should certainly keep Bengals in pairs, so that they can play with each other.

If you do have two Bengals, then ensure that both of them are given equal attention, otherwise the neglected one tends to become jealous of the other and fights can develop.

Until next time,

Teia

Training Your Cat to Use the Toilet

Cats are wonderful pets, but cleaning the litter box can be a real drag. But what if you could train kitty to use the toilet? Instead of dealing with messy, smelly litter, you could get rid of your cat’s elimination with just one flush.

When training your cat to use the toilet, it's best if you have two toilets in the house. Using one just for the cat and one for yourself during the training period will make things much more convenient, although you can train your cat with only one toilet.

For toilet training your cat, you will need an aluminum tray that fits into the toilet and an aluminum tray as a replacement for his litter box. The idea is to get him used to the aluminum tray in the same spot his box is usually in and then the tray in the toilet won't seem so foreign.

Keep the litter box in its original spot but replace the box with the aluminum tray instead. Use the same litter and keep everything else the same. Once the cat is used to this new arrangement, start gradually switching the litter to flushable litter. Once the cat is used to the flushable litter, you are ready for the next step.

Gradually move the litter box closer to the toilet. Don't move it too far each time and make sure your cat knows where it is by taking her over to it and scratching her paws in it. If your cat stops using the box, you are probably going too fast for her, so slow down. Training a cat to use a litter box is a process that takes a long time, so patience is key.

Once the cat is using the litter box next to the toilet, raise it an inch off the floor. Make sure you use something that will keep the box stable and that the box will not slide off. Gradually, every third or fourth day, raise the box an inch higher, until it is level with the toilet. As it gets higher the cat will have to jump up into it, so it is critical that the box is stable, if it tips over this will scare your cat and she might not want to use it again.

At this point, you should have the tray ready in the toilet. You can use a cooking tray that is wide enough to fit the toilet. Put the tray in between that seat ring and the toilet base - make sure this holds it in place. Put some of the flushable litter the cat is used to in the tray.

Leave the litter box level with the tray in the toilet for a couple of weeks, gradually taking away the litter in the box. Eventually, the cat should just jump up and use the tray on the toilet. Once this is happening regularly, take the litter box away.

The next step is to gradually reduce the amount of litter that is in the tray on the toilet. Also, make a little hole in the tray. Each day, reduce the litter more and make the hole a bit bigger. Do not move too fast on this or your cat might not feel comfortable using it. Eventually, you can remove the tray altogether and your cat will be toilet trained!

Since your cat needs to balance on the toilet seat eventually, it is not recommended that you train cats that are too young. Wait until your cat is about six months old so that she is big enough to balance on the toilet seat. One important point that should be obvious, is that once your cat starts using the toilet - you MUST leave the toilet lid open at all times - the cat can't open it herself.

Be patient as this training process can take several months, but when your cat is trained you will have eliminated the smell and mess of a litter box. Now the only problem you will have is remembering to knock next time you want to use the bathroom as your cat may be using the toilet.

My mom and dad have never personally trained a cat to use the bathroom, but they have known people who have been successful at doing this. They also have a friend that trained her rabbits to use the toilet. If you decide to try training your cat to use the toilet, you may want to consider putting a child’s toilet seat into the regular seat before putting the tray on the toilet under the seat. The hole in a child’s seat is smaller than an adult toilet seat so there will be less chance of your cat falling into the toilet. Having a bigger landing area for the cat when it jumps up is also a benefit as the cat will feel safer.

Until next time,

Teia

The Relationship Between Man and Cats

Cats have been with man throughout history, but not always as beloved companions.

In ancient times, the cat earned its keep by helping to reduce the population of rats and mice that raided precious grain stores. In ancient Egypt, cats were adored and celebrated - even mummified along with their human companions.

Up until Medieval times, the cat had been elevated to a high status. She was even worshiped in some places, like the German states, where cats were associated with Freya the goddess of love and fertility. Medieval man, however, had an entirely different opinion of the cat.

Medieval man was superstitious, believing that witches and demons walked the earth doing evil deeds. The church became a central part of medieval life and in its quest for power, preached that the old ways of worship were evil.

The church took a dislike to the old Freya rites and in 1484, Pope Innocent VIII instructed the Inquisition to burn the Freya heretics as witches - along with their cats.

During the 16th and 17th centuries more than 175,000 supposed witches were executed in Germany and France. Along with them went thousands of cats.

Medieval man thought the cat had supernatural powers and any misfortune was blamed on them. Anything from sour milk to an outbreak of disease was blamed on our furry friends. Cats were even thought to be witches in disguise, running in the darkness of night to perform evil acts. Cats were burned, boiled, stoned, flayed, stabbed, gutted, dropped from high places, hanged, impaled and buried alive with an almost religious fervor.

To own a cat during these times was risking one’s life as many an old lady was accused of witchcraft simply because she kept a cat as a companion. Throughout these bleak times, however, some did remain loyal to the furry feline.

Millers and Sailors still saw great uses for the cats to rid their respective areas of vermin. Others kept their fondness for cats as well. As time went on, more people of influence began to keep cats (even Cardinals Wolsey and Richelieu kept cats as pets) and the tide began to turn in the cat’s favor.

Finally, by the 18th century, cats were no longer persecuted and cats as companions began to make a comeback. Today, of course, cats are widely accepted as loving companions and, while they don't typically enjoy the status they did in ancient Egypt, they are adored and cared for as loving pets.

Until next time,

Teia

Cat Breeds: Siamese Cats

The Siamese cat has been in existence for hundreds of years, making it one of the oldest established cat breeds. Even though the precise origins of these cats are in dispute, it is generally suggested that they come from Southeast Asia. A plausible speculation is that they are distant descendants of the King of Siam's revered palace cats. In the late 1800's the first pair of Siamese cats was transported from Siam (now called Thailand) to Britain. Since then, their popularity has increased so much that they are one of today's most admired cat breeds.

There are two very distinct varieties of Siamese cats. The first one is the Traditional or Apple head type. These cats have a circular head with proportionate rounded ears. Their eyes are also more rounded. They are normal-sized cats with stockier athletic bodies. This type maintains the original characteristics of the early imports from Siam.

The second variety is the Modern or Wedge head Siamese. In comparison, they have elongated wedge or triangular heads with obviously large pointed ears. Their eyes are almond shaped and somewhat slanted. Their agile bodies are long, slim and graceful with whip-like tails. This type was refined by breeders and is the kind you will see competing in cat shows.

In the past, Siamese cats had unusual traits, such as kinked tails and crossed eyes. While these tendencies can still be found in the Siamese, they are considered flaws and through breeders using discriminating breeding practices, occur much less frequently. All Siamese cats are shorthaired and have brilliant blue eyes, except for albinos.

Siamese cats are recognized for their point color pattern, which means the body coat is lighter in color, while the points are darker. The points are the cat's face, ears, lower legs, paws and tail. Siamese kittens are born entirely white. Slowly but surely, the color points begin to appear and improve until one year of age, when most color points are totally developed. Siamese come in four basic color points. The first is the well-known Seal Point. The body color is fawn with dark brown points. Next is the Chocolate Point. As the name suggests, the points are a chocolate color and the body is off-white. After that, comes the Blue Point, which has a white body color with a bluish tint. Its points are a deep bluish-gray. Finally is the scarce Lilac Point that has a white body and pinky gray points. Later, crosses with other breeds developed Siamese-mix cats with points in other cat colors and patterns, including red point, lynx (tabby) point and tortoiseshell ("tortie") point. In the United Kingdom, all pointed Siamese-style cats are considered to be part of the Siamese breed. In the United States, the major cat registry, the Cat Fanciers' Association, considers only the four original colorations as Siamese: seal point, blue point, chocolate point, and lilac point. Oriental cats with color points in colors or patterns aside from these four are considered “Colorpoint Shorthairs” in the American Cat Fanciers’ Association.

Along with a curious nature, Siamese are regarded as extremely intelligent. They are a social animal that is very loyal and loving to “their people.” They can form a strong bond with their owner. In fact, they require a fair amount of attention from their humans or they may become lonely if not given their proper affection. If that becomes the case, the owner may hear what these cats are famous for, which is their ability to communicate vocally. Their yowl is very loud and frequently sounds like the cat is hurt and in pain.

It is very easy to care for a Siamese cat, since they are able to groom themselves quite well. However, your cat will certainly appreciate an occasional brushing. Generally, it is a healthy breed, although there are a few genetic diseases that they are susceptible to as with most purebreds. By keeping inoculations up-to-date, spaying or neutering and not allowing the cat outdoors, you can have an enduring friendship. This cat is tolerant of smaller children and its usually calm temperament is perfect for seniors, making it a terrific all-around family pet.

Until next time,

Teia