Dog Breeds: The Greyhound

The first documentation mentioning this speedy canine occurred in 1016 when they were included in the Forest Laws made by King Canute. Interestingly, dogs with a similar appearance were carved into Egyptian tombs, dating back 4000 years, which leads one to believe that their origin may have been the middle east, and that they were brought to Great Britain by the Celts who picked them up during their wide ranging travels.

Greyhounds, which can run at speeds up to 37 miles per hour (60 Kilometres per hour), were originally used for large game coursing. In more modern times, this gentle, affectionate, kindly canine has been used in coursing, racing and as companion dogs. They enjoy interacting with children, so can be considered as family pets. Because of their coursing background, it is advisable to keep greyhounds away from rabbits, cats and small dogs.

Greyhounds weigh from 60 to 70 pounds (27-32 Kg) and stand 27 to 30 inches (68 – 76 cm) in height. Their life expectancy is 10 to 12 years.

Greyhounds that have been rescued or retired from racing establishments make great companion dogs, but they chase anything that moves. Because they seldom bark and are used to spending long periods of time in relatively small spaces (being carted from race track to race track in small dog crates or vehicle mounted kennels) they make excellent dogs for apartment dwellers.

Greyhounds have a long relatively wide face and a flat skull. They have a capacious chest which provides ample space for their heart and lungs. Their forelegs are long, straight and well boned. They have fine close hair coloured white, fawn, red, red-brindle, black-brindle and black, plus combinations of the aforementioned colours. Their neck is long, arched and muscular. Their ears are small, fine textured and rose shaped at the base.

Greyhounds enjoy going for walks and if turned loose in a field they will run about. If you want an affectionate companion dog, then you may want to consider getting a greyhound.

Until next time,

Teia

Dog Facts

I decided to do something a little different today. Over the past while I've come across some tidbits about dogs and I thought you might find them interesting.

Even though a human stands upright and a dog walks on four feet, the two have very similar skeletons. The only real difference is that a dog does not have a collar bone.

The Rhodesian Ridgeback has an unusual ridge of hair which grows along the middle of its back. This ridge of hair grows in the opposite direction to all the other hair on its back.

Dogs have an incredible sense of smell. They can detect one part of urine in 60 million parts of water.

Trained blood hounds have phenomenal scenting ability. If they are following a trail and they lose it at the edge of a body of water, they can often regain the lost trail after they cross the body of water.

The first living creatures to return from space alive, were the dogs Belka and Strelka along with a grey rabbit, 42 mice, 2 rats, flies and a number of plants and fungi on August 19, 1960.

Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II has a daily walk around the grounds of Buckingham Palace. She is accompanied, a few steps behind, by her two Corgis, on leashes held by the dog handler.

A lonely dog, deprived of canine or human companionship for long periods each day can easily become destructive. Therefore, they should have someone or something to keep them occupied. Many people leave either a radio or television on to “entertain” their dogs.

Many dogs respond favourably to music and some will even provide vocal accompaniment. A few dogs have even learned to “play” an instrument such as a piano or a mouth organ.

Some dogs, trained to aid the disabled, can load and unload washing machines. Others can “answer” the phone by picking up the receiver and holding it for their disabled companion to talk to the caller.

Dogs have now been trained to detect impending heart attacks or epileptic seizures and can then warn their owners, so appropriate action can be taken.

The Newfoundland dog has webbed feet which enables it to swim exceptionally well, in spite of being a large dog with a heavy coat. As well as the Newfoundland, many “water dogs” such as retrievers also have strong webs between their toes to assist them in swimming. Many arctic breeds, like huskies, also have webbed feet which keep them from sinking too deeply into snow

Any breed of Tibetan origin that has tan markings above its eyes is called “four eyes.” Many Tibetans believe that these dogs can see evil up to three days in advance.

Dogs that have been rescued should be seen by a veterinarian before being put up for adoption so that any potential new owner will know the needs of the dog and can then make an informed decision regarding getting it for a pet.

Greyhounds that have retired from racing or been rescued from racing establishments make great dogs for apartment dwellers. They are affectionate, quiet (they seldom bark), and they are used to small places because in the racing world they frequently had to stay in small crates when being transported from place to place.

Diarrhoea in dogs is frequently caused by a rapid change in diet or a slight chill. It can usually be rectified by withholding food from the dog for 24 hours and then feeding the dog a light diet for the next few days. Fresh water should be available at all times. If you notice blood in the diarrhoea or if vomiting and diarrhoea occur together or if other unusual symptoms accompany the diarrhoea, get your dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible.

For hundreds of years, dogs were expected to work in return for food and shelter, but in modern times they are more valued for their companionship. One duty they performed was pulling dog carts, which carried all manner of things, including people, parcels, milk containers, fruit and vegetables, wood, meat, bread and coal.

“Lassie,” one of the most famous canine movie stars, was in actual fact a male dog by the name of “Pal.”

Until next time,

Teia

DOG COMMUNICATION

Dogs are one of the more intelligent animals kept as domestic pets. We have the ability to communicate with other dogs, other animals and even humans. We communicate using body language and vocal sounds. Our body language involves the use of our eyes, ears, mouth, posture, eyebrows, head position and tail. The vocals we use are yips, barks, howls, growls, whimpers, whines and “dog talk” which sounds like we are trying to imitate human speech. Some of our communications involve using the same gesture, but with a different meaning dictated by the circumstances in which it is used. For example, if we pant, it can mean that we are hot and we are trying to cool down, or it can mean that we are anxious or happy. If it is hot and we are panting heavily, it usually means that we are overheated and we are trying to cool down. If we are in the veterinarian's office and we are panting, it usually means we are anxious or scared. If we are playing with you and we pant and almost look like we are smiling, it means we are happy.

In the wild, dogs live in packs which have a certain hierarchy which is determined by personality, strength and personal confidence. Confident and higher ranked dogs hold their tail high. Lower ranked dogs, or submissive dogs, allow their tail to droop. If you notice that your pet dog carries his tail held high, it means that he is confident and proud. If he carries his tail low, it means that he is submissive and insecure. If you speak harshly to your dog when he has done something you don't like, you will notice that his tail will droop. If you have ever had occasion to observe a dog when it is about to become involved in a fight, you will notice that the fur on his tail is all fluffed out. As well all the hair on his body will also be standing out. This makes him appear larger to his opponent, which may cause the opponent to back down and submit to the larger appearing more dominant dog. (As an aside, if you are ever confronted by a black bear, stand on your tip toes, put your arms out and up as far as you can and yell as loud as you can...this makes you appear very large to the bear and most of the time he will run away. Growing up in the wilds of British Columbia, my dad had numerous confrontations with bears and by using this technique he was never attacked once...mind you he was very careful to never get between a female bear and her young either.)

When I am confused, I wag my tail slowly while I try to figure out what I should do. If I am excited about something, I wag my tail very quickly. If I am confronted by another dog and I recognize that he is higher ranked than I am, I will wag my tail and move my hips also. This means that I am ready to submit to the other dog.

When I become aggressive, I roll my lips back and show my fangs and growl. This indicates that I am ready to bite or attack. If I show my teeth in a smile, it means that I am showing that I am submissive. By observing the number of teeth I display, you can tell whether I am smiling or being aggressive. When I smile, you can only see my front teeth, and when I snarl and roll back my lips, you can see all of my teeth and gums.

My ears are another indicator of what I am trying to communicate. When my ears are erect, it indicates that I am concentrating on something. When I fear something I lay my ears back. When I am happy, I put my ears forward and pant lightly.

When I bark, I'm trying to scare a stranger away and also trying to let my mom and dad know that something is wrong. I also bark when I am playing. When I am excited or playing, my barks are sharp and short. If I am stressed or anxious, my bark is high pitched and repetitive. If I am lonely, I howl mournfully. If I want to communicate with another dog I bark repeatedly in the same mid range tone. When I growl, it is to warn people or other dogs to leave me alone or to threaten my “sisters” to mind their manners. If I am outside and I howl, particularly if it is an undulating howl, I am trying to communicate long distance with another dog I have heard. If I yawn, it usually means I am sleepy, or bored. However, if I yawn repeatedly it means that I am stressed about something, or in pain.

If I lift a forelimb and make a scratching movement in the air, it means I want to play. If I stamp my front feet it means I am excited. If I stamp my front feet and yip, it means that you are supposed to do something for me, usually give me a treat for something I have done that should be rewarded.

If I lift my paw and hold it out to you it means I want to exchange a handshake with you. If I want something, I will scratch it. If I look at something and tilt my head, it means I am concentrating on what I am looking at and trying to determine what it is. If my head is tilted but I am not looking at anything in particular, it means that I am trying to identify something that I have heard. If I go to the door and whine, it means I have to go out. If I go to the food bowl and it is empty, I will either bark while looking at it, whine while looking at it or pick it up and bring it to you. I also use these tactics if my water bowl is empty. If you are eating something and it smells real good, I will lick my lips and I may even bark, whine or yip to try and get you to share it with me.

If I stand facing you with my legs spread apart and my muscles bunched, then I am warning you to either back away or stay away from me.

If I am looking at you and I raise my eyebrows, it means either I am waiting for you to say something or if you have said something, I don't understand what you want me to do. If I draw my eyebrows down into a frown, I'm puzzled by something. If my eyes get big and round and my eyebrows go up, it means I'm surprised or startled by something.

If I want to play with you, I will bring a toy to you and stand there wagging my tail. Many of us can be trained to play catch, to fetch thrown objects, to catch frizzbies, to play fly-ball or to compete in agility competitions. “Mitzi” the first dog mom and dad had after they married, could play hide and go seek, ride a skateboard and a toboggan and stand on her hind legs and dance. Spend time with your dog and you will be amazed at what he or she can communicate to you.

Until next time,

Teia

CURING YOUR CAT'S BAD BREATH

Bad breath in a pet is usually associated with dogs, however, if you happen to own a cat with bad breath, you will know that it smells awful. Usually, bad breath is caused by bacteria in the mouth which breaks down protein in your cat's food releasing sulphur compounds into the air. Since sulphur has a foul odour, when your cat opens its mouth this sulphur smell is released. The bacteria responsible for the release of the sulphur smell is the kind which is associated with a buildup of tartar on your cat's teeth. Tartar, which also forms on human teeth, is yellow or greenish yellow in colour and it is made up of minerals in the cat's saliva which adhere to plaque on the surface of the cat's teeth. Once the tartar builds up on your cat's teeth, it becomes very hard and it is difficult to remove. Severe cases will require professional removal, which is quite expensive. The best way to eliminate it is to catch it in its early stage when use of pet toothpaste with anti tartar enzymes can, if used daily, virtually prevent the formation of dental plaque which will, in turn, eliminate the formation of tartar because it will not have the plaque to anchor it to the teeth. There are now cat foods that are designed to reduce the buildup of tartar. Some cat treats apparently have enzymes that will dissolve dental plaque eliminating the formation of tartar. Before considering these foods and treats, consult with your veterinarian to ascertain that these enzymes do not cause other medical problems for your beloved pet.

As mentioned above, if you catch it early enough, that is before the tartar becomes as hard as cement, you may be able to clean the tartar off your cat’s teeth at home. There are several toothpastes available for pets, in several different flavors, which are designed to prevent the formation of plaque and thus prevent tartar buildup. You can remove it with a basic toothbrush, but you will probably find that an electric toothbrush is much better, because the motion of these brushes is better at removing plaque. If you start when your cat is young and easier to handle, you will have more success. Brushing your cat's teeth will not be easy, but it will prevent the buildup of plaque and thus prevent the bad breath associated with the formation of tartar. Note! You must ensure that you use PET toothpaste. Human toothpaste contains chemicals that must be spit out. Since neither cats or dogs can spit like a human, they have to swallow the toothpaste. If you have ever accidentally swallowed human toothpaste, you know that it makes you quite ill. Doing so on a daily basis as your pet would have to do could lead to many very serious maladies.

Some of the bacteria that leads to plaque and tartar buildup can be found in your cat’s diet. Because of this, make sure you feed him premium food and that you brush his teeth or rinse his mouth out after he eats. This way, you’ll get the bacteria out of his mouth before it has time to build up on his teeth.

Another reason for consulting your veterinarian when you detect a bad odour on your cat's breath is that sometimes, in rare cases, the cause of the bad breath could be caused by either liver or kidney disease. So, if you notice bad breath coming from your cat, you should take him or her to your vet. Even though it may be something to do with tartar, it’s better to be safe than sorry. Your veterinarian can pinpoint the problem, let you know what the cause is and how you should go about fixing it.

Until next time,

Teia

A DOG and YOUR LIFESTYLE

If I was to come up to you and ask what affect a dog would have on your lifestyle, you would have a reaction, whether you like dogs or do not care for them. Either way, dogs affect your lifestyle. Dogs and humans have interacted for thousands of years, so rare indeed is the person who does not have an opinion or feelings about man's “best friend.”

Therefore, it is safe to assume that you have had at least one experience with a dog that was either positive or negative. This experience has had an impact on your life, whether you realized it or not. If it was a negative experience, you will be scared or distrustful of dogs and avoid them as much as possible. If it was a positive experience, then you will probably have a pet dog or have done so in the past. If the experience was kind of benign, you may not have formed an opinion one way or the other, however, this type of situation is not typical. Typically, that experience with the dog has left you with a life long emotional feeling regarding dogs.

If you think that dogs are big or small stinky nuisances, then you will probably not have a pet dog and you will never experience the emotion of receiving unconditional love (you may have a great love life, but it will have conditions attached to it). In spite of this, you will have to admit that dogs, or a specific dog, has influenced your current lifestyle. If you are completely honest, and haven't substituted another pet in the place of a dog, you will have to admit that your life is somewhat sterile and maybe, just a little empty, or at least missing a little something.

Now, just for fun, let's look at a hypothetical example to see how your emotions and lifestyle can be changed. For this example, let's say you are a twenties or thirties single person who is career orientated. Because you are so wrapped up in your career, you are probably not at your optimum weight or physical condition. You may have even tried to diet or taken out a membership in a gym, but they didn't work because your lifestyle didn't leave enough time to properly adhere to the regimen required,

One night, you come home tired and just want to get off to bed when you realize that tomorrow is garbage collection day and you must put the garbage in the bin in the back alley. It's raining and quite cold. You grab the garbage you've placed into a garbage bag, pulled on a coat and a raincoat and rushed out to the garbage bin. There, huddled whimpering beside the garbage bin is a little puppy. It appears to be abandoned, and it looks pathetically at you. You don't particularly care for dogs because they don't really fit in your lifestyle. But, this one looks so pathetic and helpless that you feel pity for it and pick it up and take it in out of the wet and cold, just for the night.

Once inside you grab a towel and dry the poor little thing. It licks your hand. Once it's dry, you pour a little milk in one bowl and a few leftovers from the refrigerator in another. The little thing devours everything in minutes, then licks your leg and curls up near your feet. You resolve to arrange for the puppy to go to the place where they put abandoned dogs, but you're not sure if it is the city pound or the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA). You take the puppy out to relieve itself just before you head to bed. Next morning, just before you head off to work you take puppy out again, then when you come back in you put a few pieces of newspaper on the kitchen floor and head off to work.

Work is a bedlam of calls and demands and you don't have time to find out where to take the little stray. You'll have to keep it another day. On the way home you stop at Walmart and go into the pet department to get some puppy food. The clerk recommends that you take the puppy for a daily walk, so you buy an inexpensive collar and leash.

When you get home, you find that puppy has wet partly on a piece of newspaper and partly on the floor. You put the newspaper in the garbage and wipe the floor. The puppy bounces over and licks the back of your hand.

You put food and water down for puppy and make a quick supper for yourself. Then you put the collar on puppy who is not happy with it at all. She keeps trying to pull it off with a hind leg. After putting your coat on and pocketing a bunch of paper towel and a couple of plastic sandwich bags to pick up any bowel movements, you snap the leash onto the collar and partly lead and partly drag puppy to the door.

Once out on the front sidewalk, puppy rushed off to the end of the leash pulling madly as she explores everything she sees. A couple of gentle tugs on the leash slows her down a little and you make it erratically to the end of the block. You decide to walk around the block a few times. By the time you get around the block the first time she is walking more normally and not pulling as frantically as she was. The second time around the block, she stops and you're glad you brought two plastic bags. You pick up after her and seal the bags to enclose the odour. When you get back to the front door of your building, you realize that you've just walked eight blocks or about eight-tenths of a mile as most city blocks are about one-tenth of a mile in length. Puppy looks tired and you're a little fatigued yourself. You haven't walked that far in quite a while.

The next day at work is another busy one and you don't get time to phone about the puppy, again.

When you get home, there's no mess left by puppy who happily bounds up to you. You bend down to pet puppy and get a sloppy lick on your chin. You feed puppy and yourself and repeat the walk again. Your legs area a little stiff and sore from the unusual exercise and puppy is much more manageable.

This routine continues for the rest of the week and by Friday, you find, much to your amazement, that you've become quite attached to puppy and can't bear the thought of her going into a cage at the pound or the SPCA. Since you've decided to keep her, you give her a name and get some toys and some piddle pads in case she has to go when you are out. The walks continue and the length of them has increased to three times around the block. “Taffy” has grown a bit and always greets you enthusiastically when you get home from work.

About a month goes by and you notice that your clothes are not fitting as well as they did. They all seem to have stretched. You step on the bathroom scale and are shocked to see you have lost ten pounds. You realize that your daily walks with “Taffy” have resulted in a loss of weight and then you also realize that you are not nearly as stressed or “up tight” as you had been.

“Taffy,” the little stray you were going to put in the pound or SPCA (you're still not sure who looks after strays in your city), has helped you to reduce your weight and make you a happier and less stressed person. She has also provided you with attention and plenty of affection. Quite a reward for taking her in. And to top it off, she has changed your lifestyle and possibly your whole future.

Although the above was a fictional account, get yourself a dog and see if it doesn't make you into a whole different person...I dare you!

Until next time,

Teia


PS. Let me know if a dog has changed your lifestyle.

Your Dog's Sense of the World

Dogs have associated with humans for approximately 14,000 years. During that time we have been your companions, hunting partners, protectors and assistants. If you have spent a lot of time with your dog, he will treat you as the pack leader and look to you for direction as to what he is to do. Since you are his leader, then you should understand exactly how he perceives the world around him. In that way, you will be better equipped to provide the direction he needs to satisfy your desires.

Just like you, dogs have five senses: smell, sight, hearing, taste and touch. However, your dog's senses are tuned differently than your senses. Because of this, our perception of the world is somewhat different than your perception. Let's explore this further, so that you can understand why your dog reacts the way he does.

SMELL

Smell is our greatest asset. This is why dogs are used at airports to detect drugs, explosives and other contraband. It is also why dogs are used in search and rescue. Have you ever wondered why dogs have such a superior sense of smell?

Both humans and dogs have an olfactory system which discerns smells. Part of that system is a centre located within the brain called the olfactory bulb. This centre receives signals from the olfactory nerves located within the nose and it filters these smell signals and passes them onto the brain. While a human's olfactory bulb weighs about 1.5 grams, our olfactory bulb weighs about 6 grams, with slight variations by breed. That is four times larger than a human's olfactory bulb. When you consider that our brain is about one-tenth the size of a human's brain, this means that the portion of our brain devoted to smell is about 40 times that of a human's brain. Given that comparison, it is no wonder that we have such a keen sense of smell. In view of the fact that smell is our greatest asset, you can see why our perception of the world revolves around what we smell.

SIGHT

A human's most vital sense is sight. What a person sees primarily creates their sense of the world. A human's eye is constructed so that it can detect the finest details. However, our eyes are constructed to detect movement. Their ability to detect fine details has been sacrificed in favour of the ability to track movement and to see in low light situations. This is why we can see things that are moving, in near darkness, when a human cannot see anything. Most humans have good depth perception, while we have poor depth perception. Our pupils are much larger, in proportion to the size of our eyes than a human's are. In addition, our pupils cannot constrict as well as a human's can. This feature lets in more light, sacrificing depth perception for the ability to discern things in low light conditions.

Have you ever noticed that our eyes shine when they are caught in a beam of light at night? This is caused by a reflecting mechanism located behind the retina which gives us an additional chance to see things in near darkness. Tests have determined that we can see things in one-quarter of the light that a human needs to see the same things. As a side note, cats only need one-seventh of the light that a human needs to see, which explains why cats can see at night.

HEARING

Along with our sense of smell, we have a much better sense of hearing than humans do. The difference is primarily in the upper frequency range. While a human can hear sounds with frequencies up to 20,000 Hertz, we are capable of hearing all the sounds a human hears plus we hear sounds with frequencies ranging as high as 47,000 to 65,000 Hertz, depending on our breed. To show this comparison in a simpler way, consider a piano keyboard. The last key on the right end of a piano keyboard vibrates at approximately 20,000 Hertz. If you add another 28 keys to the right of the current keyboard, then the last key of the addition would vibrate at approximately 65,000 Hertz. Humans would not be able to hear at least the last 20 of the new additions, and most wouldn't hear any of the new additions. This is why humans cannot hear dog whistles, but we can hear them fine. The frequency of these whistles is above the frequency that human ears are capable of hearing. Because we can hear things that humans cannot, we frequently bark at something that our owner is unaware of. This sometimes frustrates our owner because he or she cannot understand why we are barking.

TASTE

If you examine the dog food section of a major supermarket or a pet store, you will see a vast array of dog food with all sorts of flavours. However, according to my veterinarian, I gulp my food down so quickly that I don't have much chance to taste it and I seldom chew it either. This trait is probably linked to my instinct which dictates eat quickly or your competition will take it away from you. Possibly dogs in a one dog household eat a little slower, but I doubt it. As they say...it's in my genes. So why all the variety? Actually, the smell of the food is what attracts us most. Our sense of taste is limited by the fact that we only have about 1700 taste buds while humans have about 9000.

TOUCH

Dogs have different degrees of sensitivity on different parts of our bodies. Our nose and muzzle as well as the pads on our feet are quite sensitive to touch. Some dogs become upset when you rub around their nose or mouth or the pads of their feet. Others enjoy a rub on the nose or around the mouth. Mom and dad had a German Shepard cross that loved to have the pads on his feet rubbed gently. His brother did not like to have his feet touched at all. I don't mind it sometimes, but I'd sooner get a tummy rub.

Our whiskers are very touch sensitive, because they are deeply imbedded in the skin covering the area above our mouth. Because of this, our whiskers amplify the slightest touch. Studies have determined that 40% of our brain area devoted to touch is dedicated to this area of our body. Interestingly enough, most groomers shave this area of us which greatly diminishes our sense of touch. My whiskers are shaved every time I'm groomed, so I frequently have to rub my face fairly vigorously on something so I can get a sense of what it feels like. On the other hand, I don't get food all stuck on my whiskers because they are shaved off.

In conclusion, we both have five senses that we can use, but humans mainly rely on their vision for a sense of the world while we rely mostly on smell. The other four senses are used by both to varying degrees. The other difference between us is that humans just don't understand how much you can learn by licking and smelling each other.

Until next time,

Teia

Cat Behaviour: Understanding Why Cats Fight

If you have a household that contains more than one cat, you probably know that from time to time catfights break out. Even if your cats usually get along, at certain times, they will still fight. While you may not understand why they are fighting, cats have their reasons. Some of these reasons are similar to the reasons that humans have disputes. Cats express their discontent with other cats by picking fights. If you know the reasons why cats fight, it may help you stop your cats from fighting in the future.

Fighting for territory.

Many cats fight because they feel that another cat has invaded their territory, even if it is a cat that has lived with them for a long time. Cats are much more territorial than dogs and the gender of the cat has very little to do with it. Contrary to popular belief, female cats are sometimes just as territorial as their male counterparts. If you have two cats in your home, you might notice that one cat hisses and swats at the other whenever he feels his territory has been invaded. This can also happen if you bring a new cat into the home. The reason for the fight - they are simply defending their territory.

Social ranking.

Male cats frequently threaten and fight with each other for social ranking. Despite what you may think, even neutered males may do this. If you have multiple cats, especially more than one male cat, one cat is usually considered the “alpha male” and will be at the top of the cat hierarchy. Two cats might posture their bodies, then begin howling and screaming at one another. If one of the cats walks away or backs down, then the catfight is usually avoided. However, if neither one wants to back down, then one cat will attack the other by jumping forward and attempting to bite the neck of the other cat. Usually the other cat will fall on his back and try to bite, or scratch the attacker with his hind legs. The two cats might go through this several times before walking away. There are usually no serious injuries sustained in these kinds of fights. You may even notice that kittens or young cats play with one another this way. Most of the time you will not need to interfere. The reason for the fight - setting up or maintaining social ranking.

Aggression.

Cats also fight because of some kind of redirected aggression. This is quite common, especially with indoor cats. Your cat might be looking out the window at another cat or dog crossing “his” yard. Your cat begins to feel territorial and aggressive, but since this other cat cannot be reached, he may instead attack another family cat. The reason for the fight - pent up aggression

Jealousy.

Like all animals, cats can become jealous. It may be jealousy caused by one cat feeling that another is getting more attention than it is. Or is could be that one cat feels that another is getting more treats or better food than it is getting. These type of fights are frequently accompanied by a lot of loud growling and yowling. The reason for the fight - jealousy.

Your Reactions.

If you find your cats fighting occasionally, do not become alarmed, as this is common and quite typical of cats. Most of the time, you will be able to tell whether or not your cats are fighting for “blood” or just playing around. The time to stop a fight is when it gets nasty and it appears that one of the cats is getting hurt. Otherwise, allow your cats to work it out themselves. If you feel the need to stop a catfight, then you should do it carefully. Even the most loving cat can bite or scratch you in aggressive passion. To stop a fight, you should make some kind of loud noise, such as a handclap. Since cats are startled by loud noises, they should both stop to see what is making the noise. You can also spray water on them from a plant mister. This will usually stop the aggressive behaviour.

When you find your cats fighting, you should not punish them. Cats do not understand punishment and fighting is a natural instinct in cats. The best thing to do is only interfere when necessary. If you find your cats are fighting more than they should, it is time that you find out why. Do they fight over a litter box, a food bowl or a prime window location? Make sure each kitty has his or her own “things” and a place to retreat to when they feel overwhelmed by other pets in the house. This will go a long way in preventing real catfights.

Until next time,

Teia

How to Prepare a Raw Diet for Your Pet(s)

In spite of mom and dad’s concerns about raw food diets, these diets seem to be more popular than ever. With that in mind, I chose this article for today’s post.

Before there was such a thing as commercial pet foods, dogs ate table scraps and the leftovers, including bones from on the farm butchering; cats usually lived on the rodents they caught around the house or outbuildings, occasionally supplemented by a bowl of milk or a squirt of milk from a cow’s teat during milking in the barn.

The acquisition of pets by city dwellers and their need for a more convenient means of feeding their pets gave rise to the pet food industry we have today. However, after the pet food disaster of a couple of years ago, more and more people have come to realize the dangers and inadequacies of commercial pet foods.

The Most Highly Touted Benefits of a Raw Diet.

Numerous articles and books have been written about raw pet food diets. In fact, they have become so popular that now commercially prepared raw diets can be obtained in fresh, frozen or dehydrated condition. The most commonly mentioned benefits of raw food diets include increased health and vigour, a much more glossy coat, cleaner teeth and longer, healthier lives.

Cautions that Should be Followed.

Discuss any change in diet with your veterinarian. Ill or aging animals may need to be eased into a raw food diet. You may want to start with lightly cooked food, particularly if their digestion or immune system is compromised in any way. For the safety of your dog, bones should initially be ground or be large enough so the dog will chew off any meat and cartilage but not be able to break and ingest bone fragments.

The "One Hundred Percent Complete" Myth.

Most commercial diets on the market are usually advertised as "100% complete and balanced." This was the case back in the 1970’s when pet food diets did not contain taurine and pets were dying from heart problems because no one realized taurine was an essential nutrient. Now, quietly, taurine is also being added to previously "complete" pet foods. What nutrients will be “discovered” as being essential in the next few years?

As an example in human terms, the cereal Total (R) is advertised as 100% complete -- would you feed your child nothing else for her entire life? I don’t think so! It is nearly impossible for a manufactured food to be 100% complete because we simply don't know everything there is to know about nutrition, either human nutrition or pet nutrition. And, since we do not know enough, how can we manufacture 100 % complete food products?

Diets for Dogs.

Dogs, while technically carnivores, are opportunistic scavengers. They will grab anything that smells good to them and run away to gorge themselves on it. No matter how well trained, most dogs will grab any food item that they can reach on a counter, table or window ledge and some have been known to grab meat off a BBQ. If allowed to run free, they also spend time searching through human garbage for tasty tidbits. A dog's diet can consist of a wide variety of foods; however, meat and bones should still be the primary ingredients. If vegetables are included in your dog’s diet, they should first be blanched and frozen to break down cell walls and release nutrients for the dog to absorb. Carrots are very hard for dogs to digest, so they should be pureed. Since some dogs like fruit, this can be provided to them, but avoid grapes, raisins, nuts and onions, which can be toxic, especially to small dogs. Feed garlic only in moderation. Grains are not required and in fact can be harmful to some dogs. However, if your dog needs to gain some weight, then rolled oats, brown rice, or barley will help. Dogs will also like an OCCASIONAL piece of whole grain bread as a treat, but be warned that this will quickly cause your dog to gain weight and overweight dogs tend to develop diabetes or heart problems more easily.

Diets for Cats.

Cats are completely carnivorous animals, which means that they MUST eat a meat-based diet. Almost all commercial cat diets are completely inappropriate with their grain and vegetable fillers. Obesity, diabetes and irritable bowel disease are some of the most common problems in cats that are continuously fed a dry food diet. You should choose a variety of raw meats and organs to provide a good diet. Most cats like their food ground, however some enjoy gnawing on raw chicken wings and necks.

Keeping the Balance in Your Pet’s Diet.

You do not eat the same thing every day and the same should be true for your pet. They need variety in their diet to obtain the best health benefits. When you first start feeding a raw diet, most likely you will start off with one meat source (most people use chicken because it is readily available and inexpensive). If you can get a frozen mix, like Oma's Pride, your job will be much easier, as it is made up of ground meat, bones, vegetables and organs (for dogs), or a variety of ground meats (with or without bones) and organs for cats. When planning meals for your pet(s), you must remember to balance the ingredients over time so the pet(s) get the full benefits of a raw diet. Meats from different animals, even different cuts of meat from the same animal, will have different nutrient content. By choosing a wide variety of meats and including organs as well, you can achieve balance over time. Add yogurt or cottage cheese (if your pet does not have an allergy to dairy products) and raw or cooked eggs at least once a week.

When feeding raw diets, puppies don't need special diets, however, they will require as much as 10% of their weight in food to start off with, gradually decreasing to the adult maintenance level of 3% by 1-2 years of age.

Working dogs and dogs involved in sporting activities should get 3-5% of their body weight in daily food. Judge the success of your feeding program by body condition which should show a definite indentation in the stomach area. The dog should be active, alert and have a good coat if the diet is balanced and adequate. Good meats for dogs include chicken, turkey, lamb, beef (for most dogs, although some dogs have shown allergic reactions to beef), also duck (for weight gain) and rabbit. Most of these are available from larger grocery stores, butcher shops or raw pet food distributors.

For cats, rabbit, chicken, and small amounts of fish make great choices that are "close" to their natural diet. Do not overdo the supply of salmon or herring as they contain quite a lot of oil and will tend to add weight to your cat if given too frequently. Try to pick less oily fish and keep the salmon and herring for special treats.

Feeding a raw diet to pets is not complicated although it is more time consuming than opening a can or dumping dry food into a bowl. Just follow these general guidelines, check with your veterinarian regularly and read as much about it as you can, and you'll be a pro in no time.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. I like my meat cooked. To me, raw meat tastes awful, so I won’t eat it unless I am VERY hungry. I LOVE table scraps though and I like raw fruit, particularly pieces of apple that have had the skin removed and pieces of cantaloupe and watermelon.

Is a Guinea Pig the Right Pet for You?

Guinea Pigs, also called cavies, are lovable furry critters that will bring you a lot of joy. In addition, Guinea Pigs can be a perfect first pet for children because they are easy to care for and more cuddly than a hamster or fish. Following is information to help you determine whether a Guinea Pig is the right pet for you.

If you are thinking about getting a pet for your home, you may at first consider a dog or cat. These animals are perfect for homes if you have a lot of time to dedicate to owning a pet. Dogs and cats need a lot of attention and a lot of space. Guinea Pigs on the other hand are just as cute as dogs and cats, but they do not require near as much space or care. Many people love the idea of Guinea Pigs as first pets for children because they live a lot longer than hamsters or gerbils. In fact, a well cared for Guinea Pig can live up to eight or nine years. Once you own a Guinea Pig, you will be hooked by these cute, sweet natured animals.

When you go to the store to get a Guinea Pig, it is always a good idea to look at them carefully and choose them for their personality. Each Guinea Pig has his or her own personality. Some are more reserved in nature, while others are more outgoing. If you are choosing a Guinea Pig for your child, you want to make sure that your Guinea pig can tolerate being held and petted. Guinea pigs are not known to be aggressive or to bite, but your child will have no fun with a shy Guinea Pig.

Guinea Pigs are social animals and they enjoy the company of other Guinea Pigs. If you are planning to get a Guinea Pig, you might want to consider getting two Guinea Pigs at the same time. Male Guinea Pigs get along quite well with each other if you get them when they are both babies. Male Guinea Pigs will fight with each other if you introduce them after they are grown. Female Guinea Pigs also get along well with each other. It is not recommended that you get a male and a female, unless you want to breed Guinea Pigs.

When looking at Guinea Pig cages, you need to find one that will allow enough room for movement and play. Make sure that your cage has an exercise wheel, to keep your Guinea Pig healthy and active. Guinea Pigs like to stay hidden when they sleep, so make sure that your cage has a place where they can hide. A plastic or wooden structure inside the cage is always a good idea. You will want to add some sort of lining to the bottom of your Guinea Pig cage for easy cleanup. Cedar chips are not recommended, however pine wood chips, newspaper, ground up corn cobs or kitty litter are all fine. You also want to include a large water bottle for your Guinea Pig. If you have two Guinea Pigs consider getting two water bottles. Guinea Pigs love to drink water, so make sure that you give them plenty of fresh water EVERY day.

Some experts recommend adding vitamin C drops to their water. This works well for some Guinea Pigs. However, some Guinea Pigs do not like the taste and will not drink the water. If you do decide to add vitamin C drops to their water, make sure they are staying hydrated throughout the day. If you choose not to include vitamin C drops with their water, you can supplement their diet with fresh fruit and vegetables. Guinea Pigs love fresh vegetables and fruit of all kinds. Just make sure that you do not overfeed your Guinea Pigs and use fruits and vegetables as treats. As far as food is concerned, you will need to feed your Guinea Pigs specially formulated Guinea Pig pellets available at pet stores. Guinea Pigs also needed a daily supply of Timothy hay, available in some pet stores and most farm supply stores, to help aid their digestion.

Guinea Pigs are great pets for all types of homes. When you get a young Guinea Pig, you and your child or children will have to work with it to socialize it. All family members are sure to enjoy these adorable pets for many years to come.

Until next time,

Teia

Dog Shows

Dog shows, breed shows or conformation shows are competitions where the judges either examine dogs of a specific breed or dogs of all breeds, to see whether each dog meets the breed standards or not. Kennel clubs and breed clubs conduct such shows. Shows where only specific breeds are examined are known as specialty shows.

The standards for each breed of dog are set. However, because of the wording in the standards, the judges decide what interpretation they will use prior to the show. The judges for the show use their interpretation of the standards as their criterion for determining the winning dog in each breed. Most of the standards are very specific, but a few like “full coat” or “cheerful disposition” are open to interpretation. This is why the judges discuss what they will use for a particular show. During the show, they choose dogs which match their agreed upon definition of the set standards for their breed. Not only is one dog compared with another, but each is also compared to the judge's image of a dog which meets the breed standards almost perfectly.

The objective of each dog show is to select winning dogs which match their breed standards as closely as possible. However, since each judge might have a slightly different view on the standards that are open to interpretation, different judges will pick different dogs as the one that most closely matches the standards for their breed. This has led to a number of disputes regarding these shows. To counter the possibility of judicial prejudice, most countries have stated that for a dog to become a champion of its breed, it must have been judged by several different judges and it must have gained points from several prestigious shows.

A long list of a dog’s features, called conformation points, make up the published breed standards for each breed of dog. The fur is one of the most important factors. The pet's fur colour, pattern, length, type and quality are observed carefully. The distribution, quality and quantity of the markings are also observed.

Healthy skin, with no pigmentation differences, is also one of the important criterions. The shape and colour of the head is also taken into consideration. The general attitude and temperament is noted down for each breed of dog. The jaw-line and the structure of the teeth and how they align when the jaw is closed are compared. Shape and colour of the eyes and shape and set of the ears are observed. The sizes and the ratio of the length and height are also compared. The style of walking and gait is compared. The shape of the tail and feet are closely observed. The dogs which enter such competition should be well groomed. Some judges even check for skin wrinkles and measure the flews (the pendulous flaps of skin hanging from the side of the lips of certain dogs, especially hounds).

The name of each participating dog in the show should be recorded. Every dog's registered name is attached with the breeder's kennel name. Every dog can have a registered name as well as a call name. The kennel club uses the registered name, which is usually quite long. However, the owner refers to the pet by its call name. For example, the registered name could be Trombley’s Anthony The Great, but its call name could be Tony.

There are many dog shows conducted on various levels. There are local shows, regional shows and national shows, which attract competitors from different parts of the country. Usually dog shows are hierarchical competitions. The winners earn certain points in each show. Depending on the points earned, it will determine if they are eligible for the next level of show. The dog which wins shows that are at the highest level is declared a champion. 'Ch.' is appended to the dog's name, for example, Ch. Trombley’s Anthony The Great. Such shows are called prestigious shows.

These shows only allow pets which have already won a championship in another show to attend. These shows aim to choose the best in each breed. Such shows make the reputation of the dog, breeder and kennel higher. The puppies of that particular dog are then sold for a surprisingly high price. This is because other people want to buy a pet which resembles the champion. The popularity of the breed increases rapidly. There are two such prestigious shows, The Crufts in Great Britain and the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show in the United States. Neither mom, dad or I have ever attended these shows. In fact I have never attended any dog show, but mom and dad have attended a number of prestigious Canadian shows and we have all watched the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show on television.

If you are a dog owner, or you like dogs, you should attend a dog show or two. They are quite informative and a real “eye-opener” to observe.

Until next time,

Teia

Advice on Cat Ear Mites

Ear mite infestation is not an unusual issue in cats. Since the ears are one of the more susceptible parts of a cat, this causes them to be predisposed to ear mite infestation. Typically, abandoned cats and juvenile cats are more susceptible to getting ear mites than healthy mature cats.

Whenever they are present, a cat may be plagued with possibly hundreds or even thousands of ear mites. Ear mites are transmitted with ease by close contact among pets. So you can expect that if one of your cats has contracted them, it is likely that the mites have or will spread to your other cats. As a result, a mother cat is able to easily infect her litter of kittens. Consequently, it is important to treat each animal in the home for ear mites. Note, it is common for a cat with ear mites to transfer them to any dogs living in the home. Ear mite infections in dogs are quite difficult to treat, especially dogs with hanging ears because the infestation is usually well established before they are noticed and it is the smell that usually alerts the owner to the problem. I got ear mites from a cat at the home where I was born. No one noticed it for quite a while and when dad did, I had a very bad infestation. It took quite a while for mom, dad and my veterinarian to cure my problem. As a result of this severe infestation, I now have problems with excessive wax production and must have my ears cleaned regularly.

If an appropriate remedy is administered at the first sign of ear mites, their presence does not have to be a huge crisis. The trouble lies once the condition is allowed to continue to where a resulting bacterial or yeast infection occurs. Ear mites will not normally rupture the eardrum, but with a serious secondary infection it could cause a rupture or other problems.

A serious case of mites therefore will need a good cleansing of the ears by a veterinarian. Cat ear mites are white microscopic organisms that are scarcely discernible with the eye. Otodectes are the type of feline ear mites mainly found inhabiting the ear. What is worse is that the mites are not only confined to inhabiting the ear canal of cats, they sometimes scatter to other parts of the feline body. Ear mites will not dig down and nestle into the skin like ticks. Instead the mites travel inside the ear and live off skin and discharge leaving the ear lining sore. To protect the cat's ear, the biological reaction is to create additional earwax.

It is helpful to know the four different developmental stages of these mites when attempting to rid them from a suffering kitty. The stages require three weeks to complete, beginning as an egg and ending as a full-grown adult. The first stage is as an egg. Stage two is when the larvae emerge four days after being laid. The larvae will nourish themselves for a while, eventually moulting into stage three, the nymph. The nymph stage contains two sub-stages, the protonymph and then the deutonymph. Each sub-stage consists of a phase of feeding with a period during which they moult. Throughout the deutonymph sub-stage the nymph does not have a gender, but that doesn’t stop it from breeding with a mature male. Then should it evolve into a female, she will already possess eggs and begin laying them. Otherwise, if it turns into a male, he will merely breed with other deutonymphs. The final stage is the adult, which survives about another 60 days. During her lifetime, an adult female might deposit eggs in the cat's ear every day starting the whole process over and over.

Since mites are difficult to see, how do you know if your cat has them? A few of the symptoms your cat may display are head shaking or fervent scratching of its ears. Inspecting the ears may prove to find reddish brown waste matter, that looks like coffee grounds, left by the mites. There may also be a foul smell. An experiment you can try is to prompt a reflex by massaging near the cat's ear that stimulates scratching actions with its rear legs. This rarely happens in uninfected cats. Astonishingly, there are cats that will not demonstrate any discernible evidence of irritation or pain, so a veterinarian may need to do a more thorough examination.

Today, eradicating cat ear mites does not have to be an overwhelming challenge. Routine cleansing of the ears will help in controlling mites. Your veterinarian is able to prescribe or recommend various treatments. Some will kill the mite eggs. There are monthly topical remedies to wipe out mites on the feline body too. It is wise to have your other pets examined by your vet also and have them undergo the treatment that he suggests.

Understanding the dangers of permitting mites to establish an infestation makes managing mites a significant factor of cat care to the responsible cat owner. Observing your cat and looking out for any telltale symptoms should help alert you to an infestation. Developing proper grooming habits by devoting additional tending to your cat's ears will help in eliminating mites.

Disclaimer - Information in this article is for educational purposes only. If you suspect that your cat or dog has an ear mite infestation please contact your veterinarian immediately and follow his or her advice.

Postings on this site are for information only and when pet health is involved professional help should be obtained. In this ever changing information age, something that was considered appropriate yesterday, may no longer be true today.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets: Skunks

Skunks are famous for their ability to produce foul smelling odour to defend themselves and to protect their prey from competitors. These mammals belong to the Mephitidae family. Eleven species of Skunks exist in the world today. These species are divided into four genera: Spilogale or spotted Skunks, Mydaus or stink badgers, Conepatus or hog-nosed Skunks and Mephitis or stripped and hooded Skunks. Skunks are found in North America, South America, the Philippines and Indonesia.

Skunks vary from forty centimetres to seventy centimetres in length and from one pound to ten pounds in weight. They have long front claws which help them to dig easily and have short muscular legs which propel their moderately long body in an waddling stride. Commonly, their fur is white and black in color, but there are Skunks with gray, brown and even cream coloured fur. Striped Skunks are striped from birth. Some Skunks have a thick stripe which runs from their tail to the top of their head, while others may have two thin stripes, broken stripes or white spots. Some skunk’s legs are also striped.

Some countries have laws about keeping Skunks as pets. It is legal to have a Skunk as a pet in Great Britain and Canada, but in some states in the United States it is illegal to have them as pets. So, if you live in the United States check with your state authorities before deciding to get a Skunk as a pet. Usually the mephitis genera are preferred as pets because they are more social than most other genera of Skunks. Before selling a Skunk, breeders usually remove the scent glands. Skunks usually live longer in captivity than they do in the wild. Their lifespan in captivity is from ten to twenty years. In the wild their average lifespan is three years with the occasional one living as long as ten years. Keeping Skunks as pets in not new. They were kept as pets by some of the Pilgrims and other early European settlers in the United States and there are reports that some native North Americans also kept Skunks as pets.

Skunks feed on both plants and animals, so they are called omnivorous animals. In addition to plants, they eat insects, earthworms, lizards, frogs, rodents, salamanders, snakes, moles, birds and eggs. When they cannot find meat, they feed on wild fruit and seeds. Some Skunks even feed on garbage in urban areas and this is where they frequently meet and spray dogs, much to the dismay of the dog‘s owner.

Skunks are crepuscular animals (active during twilight). Skunks stay aloof when not breeding, but stay in communal dens in the winter. They do not hibernate in the winter, but become inactive and do not eat on a regular basis. They live in burrows dug by them, man made pits, or natural pits, depending on what they can find in the area where they live. In winter, a huddle, with one male and up to twelve females, will live in a den. They frequently use the same den every year in the winter.

Skunks have superb hearing and smelling capabilities, but their vision is poor. They can not see clearly more than three meters. This is a factor in the numerous Skunks killed in road accidents. According to one study, nearly 50 percent of Skunks die due to road traffic, which is probably why few wild Skunks live longer than three years.

Skunks can carry rabies and it is reported that nearly thirty one percent of them are infected with it. However, there have not been many reported cases of humans catching rabies from a Skunk. The stink they can unleash if threatened is enough to ensure that most humans don‘t get close enough to them to be bitten. However, if you decide to keep a Skunk as a pet, they should be vaccinated to avoid any mishaps.

In the event that you do get bitten by a Skunk, clean the wound thoroughly with an antibacterial solution and water. If the wound is bleeding put a light gauze pad over the bite area and apply an ice pack to slow the bleeding. Seek medical help immediately and call the police or animal control and advise them that there is a possible rabid Skunk in the area. When you arrive at the doctor’s office or emergency department of the local hospital, insist that you be given a tetanus shot. Also request that a test be performed to see whether they can tell if you were exposed to rabies or not. If the Skunk is captured or killed, request that it be tested for rabies.

My mom had a Skunk for a pet when she was a teenager. It was a friendly animal, but even after having its scent glands removed, it still had that lingering musky smell. It’s hard to get friendly with an animal that has that kind of odour. Fortunately for mom, her sense of smell is very limited, so she didn’t notice it, but when dad met “Suzy” he wasn’t all that favourably impressed. A few weeks after mom and dad started dating, mom found a new home for “Suzy” so dad didn’t have to worry about her odour any more. He doesn’t know if all pet Skunks have an odour, because that is the only one he has been around. It could have been that the person who removed the scent glands didn’t do that good of a job.

If you do get a Skunk as a pet, you have to be careful with it because Skunks tend to over eat and if you over feed them they will become obese in a short period of time. This obesity will lead to medical problems, so make sure that you only feed the prescribed amount of food, or you will be faced with large veterinarian bills.

Until next time,

Teia

Who Takes Care of Your Pets When You're Away?

Can your dog wait 10 hours to go for a walk? Will the cat have enough food and a clean litter box if you are away for a week? What if you can't come home Wednesday nights because of a prior commitment? Anytime a pet owner needs to go away on vacation, stay long hours at work or has regular scheduled activities that take them away from home they must consider how their pet will be cared for.

Pets provide entertainment and companionship but are also a huge responsibility. You show respect for your pet by taking its needs into consideration and planning accordingly. Fortunately there are many services available to assist you in caring for your pet during times when you can't personally give them the attention and care they need. What are they? Which is best for your pet?

DAY CARE.

Social animals, like dogs, can suffer emotionally from a lack of attention. If your dog has access to the outdoors they will be able to relieve themselves when necessary but a house-bound dog will physically require a walk or you will come home to an accident on your rug and a frustrated animal. Day care centers provide the needed social stimulation most dogs crave. At the day care your dog will spend time with other dogs and have people looking after its physical needs. If you have a young dog this can be especially important as your dog may become destructive with a lack of supervision and an abundance of unused energy.

BOARDING KENNELS.

If you plan to be away overnight or for longer, your dog or cat may be placed in a boarding kennel. This can be expensive but will ensure your pet is cared for daily and overnight.

IN-HOME CARE.

If you are comfortable leaving your dog at home all day you may find the in-home services of a visitor or dog walker to be sufficient and less costly while still providing personal attention. Cats and other animals may not need daily visits if you come home in the evening but will need some attention if you are away overnight or for several days. Cats prefer their own homes rather than the highly social aspect of day cares or boarding kennels. Other pets, such as birds and reptiles, will most likely do better with in-home care as well. In-home care can be as basic as someone taking your dog for a walk in the middle of the day or as inclusive as having a sitter stay in your home with your pet. Examine your situation and budget when choosing a method of care. Keep your pet's best interests in mind. If you are having someone come to your home be sure they are reputable. Licensed businesses should be insured and bonded when employees are entrusted with entering and locking up your home. See “Ten Steps to Finding the Perfect Sitter for Your Pet” dated March 24, 2009 about things to check when considering this option and also an experience with an in home sitter that was a personal disaster for my mom and dad.

Until next time,

Teia

Should Your Pets Eat a Raw Diet? Five Considerations Before You Start

After the pet food recalls of a couple of years ago, many pet owners are looking for alternatives to commercial diets. Some people are preparing home-cooked meals for their dogs, while others go all the way to formulating species-appropriate raw diets to ensure the best health possible for their pets.

While the many aspects of raw feeding go beyond the scope of this article, there are five major considerations to look at before even considering the raw food route:

Your Veterinarian

Just like traditional allopathic medical doctors balk at alternative medicine, so do many veterinarians oppose raw feed. Warnings about bacteria in the food are most common (the healthy dog's stomach acids don't allow for bacterial proliferation). The dangers of bones are often cited as well (again, a healthy, raw-fed dog's stomach acids will break down uncooked bones relatively easily. Cooked bones can be deadly). Be sure to educate yourself about these "dangers" before approaching your vet.

It is important to maintain a good working relationship with your vet. Of course, if your pet has any health problems, you need to consult with your vet before starting a new feeding regimen of any type. If your vet just does not like raw diets, you may need to find a holistic vet who will be more understanding about your desire to feed a raw diet. Try http://www.holisticvetlist.com to look for a holistic vet.

Your pet sitter

Be sure to discuss your decision with your pet sitter, if you use one. Some people who have no trouble cleaning up after your pet may turn out to be squeamish about handling raw meat and its juices. Explain your reasons for the switch and make it as easy as possible for your sitter by freezing meal size portions and leaving detailed instructions.

Your boarding kennel

The same goes for boarding kennels, though it may be more difficult to find one that will go all the way in accommodating your preferences. Some just won't be bothered, while others simply don't have the freezer space to store your food. If you board your pets on a regular basis, it is a good idea to keep them used to their current commercial food by feeding them with it at least two or three times a week. Give yourself or your sitter a night off, and prepare your pet for a stay at the kennel at the same time.

Your travel plans

Do you plan on travelling with your pet? While you can easily bring the food on short trips, longer vacations require advance planning. Do you have access to a freezer at your destination? Is there a grocery store that carries quality meats? Will you need to take a food processor with you?

If you're usually buying a commercially prepared raw pet food like Oma's Pride, ask your local distributor to put you in touch with one servicing your destination area. She or he will be happy to help you out during your stay.

Your freezer

Unless you're only feeding a cat or a teacup size dog, the little bit of freezer space above your fridge is not likely to be enough to store raw pet food. So you're looking at an additional investment in a freezer. It should be large enough to store six to eight weeks' worth of your pets' food. Keep in mind that this includes enough variety of food to ensure a balance of nutrients.

The recommended guideline is 3% of body weight per day for a healthy adult animal. "Variety" means several different meat sources (chicken, beef, turkey, rabbit, etc.), including different cuts and bones (ground or whole), and organ meats, and some vegetables for dogs (NOT for cats!). Work with your distributor or join one of the many online raw feeding lists to determine your needs.

Incidentally, many people find that once they have a freezer, they start buying more food for the family as well, so don't be surprised if you "outgrow" your first freezer!

Raw feeding proponents claim that raw diets can provide many health benefits to your pets, including curing or stabilizing various health conditions and providing increased vitality and longevity. As long as you can overcome these initial obstacles, you'll be able to enjoy your best friends for many years to come.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. Note that there are a lot of very highly educated nutritionists that claim that raw food diets cause problems in modern animals because they are different animals than the wild beasts from which they originated. So, do your research before jumping on the raw pet food bandwagon.

Grooming Your Pet Cat

Regular grooming of your cat is vital to keeping it healthy, especially if your cat has long hair. Think of the cat's coat as the fur and skin together: You cannot have a healthy coat unless both the skin and fur are healthy.

It is the nature of most cats to maintain well-groomed coats. If you examine your cat's tongue, you will see little bristles on it that face toward the back of the tongue. Cats use these bristles to groom themselves, often for hours at a time.

Most cats do their own grooming, but they need your help to do a complete job. For example, your cat's tongue cannot reach behind her ears or on top of her head or back. Also, the bristles on her tongue cannot always get through matted hair. That's where you come in.

Grooming a cat, whether it has long or short hair, requires both work and patience. These guidelines will aid an amateur groomer. However, there may be times, even when following these guidelines, when you will not be able to do it yourself and will need professional assistance. This is especially true if you have a long-haired cat that mats badly, or a cat that becomes violent during grooming.

Most cats do not like water and if bathing is necessary you may require assistance from a professional who knows the special handling needed to bathe an objecting cat. Some cats object so strenuously to bathing that you will need to get them sedated. If that's the case with your pet, do not let your groomer do it, let only veterinarians give your pet sedatives of any kind.

When you get a kitten, it should not need to be groomed until it is at least 14 to 16 weeks of age.

When brushing your cat or kitten, always brush with the hair. If you brush against the lay of the hair, you could scratch your cat’s skin. In addition, most cats do not like to have their hair pushed backward. Since you want grooming your cat to be enjoyable for both of you, start at the head and work toward the tip of the tail. On the sides of your cat, start at the back bone and brush toward the stomach. Most cats are ticklish, so be very gentle when grooming your cat’s tummy. If your cat has mats in its hair, use a dematting comb. These combs are available from most pet supply stores. Unless you are well versed in cutting cats’ hair, I suggest that you leave getting your cat’s hair cut to a professional groomer. My mom and dad have owned a number of cats over the years and they never found it necessary to have the hair cut on any of these cats. Brushing is another matter. As long as you are gentle, most cats enjoy being brushed.

Several different types of brushes are available for pets. Some of them are slicker types with wire bristles. Others are pin brushes with thicker metal bristles with rounded tips. Others have bristles with little plastic balls on the ends and still others have bristles just like your own hair brush. Pin brushes are better than slicker brushes because they are gentler on the skin and do not scratch or hurt. All are relatively inexpensive, so use the one that does the best job with the least amount of fuss from your cat. I cannot recommend any specific type of brush, because like dogs, each cat will feel comfortable with a different style of brush depending on their particular coat.

The finale of a thorough grooming is trimming your cat's nails. There is a special nail clipper designed for cat nails. Dog nail clippers are too cumbersome and splinter cats' nails. So, when buying nail clippers, you may want to get a recommendation from your vet. Mom and dad got the nail clippers for their cats from a veterinarian and they were very effective.

Mom and dad found that an overall brushing once a week was sufficient for most of their cats. They had one cat that created a grooming problem. This cat was a little strange. He would walk along the picket fence to avoid getting his feet wet, but whenever he saw the neighbour’s daughter he would jump into the nearest puddle and lie there feebly meowing. She would rush over and pick him up and cuddle him, getting covered in mud, much to her mother’s annoyance. She would pack the cat home and he would lay in her arms with a sappy look on his face and purr like mad. I think he had a crush on her. Fortunately, he enjoyed a bath when he got muddy, so this made cleaning him up a little easier to do.

Until next time,

Teia

Building Housing for Pet Rabbits

Ask most people about pets and you will probably hear a response that talks about dogs or cats. In more rare circumstances a pet owner will be a fancier of guinea pigs, hamsters, gerbils or even more exotic animals such as snakes, spiders or lizards. But there is a growing trend toward smaller mammals, including ferrets, rats and especially rabbits.

Rabbits are unusual in our society because they are one of the few animals that are viewed as food by some people and as pets by others. The number of homes that have indoor rabbits has been increasing at such a pace that there now exists a House Rabbit Society which rescues abandoned and abused rabbits and distributes useful information on keeping rabbits safely and in a healthy manner within a home situation. In Canada, rabbits have been kept as pets for more than 35 years, but people in other countries are quickly learning that rabbits make great pets. They are trainable and they are quiet, which is a big plus for someone living in an apartment.

One feature about a rabbit that interferes with them enjoying free run within a home is their propensity for chewing. Although rabbits can be successfully trained to use a litter box, it is more difficult for them to be convinced not to chew such things as furniture legs and electrical wires. This is why many owners of house rabbits seek an indoor hutch or rabbit cage in which their long-eared pets may be kept when they cannot be supervised. Mom and dad's younger daughter had a pet rabbit, called “Amy,” in the early 1980's. She was very affectionate, but you had to watch her very carefully when she was loose because she loved to chew electrical wires. Extension cords and lamp cords were her favourites. If you took your eyes off her for a second, she would snip an electrical cord with her razor sharp teeth. Fearing for her safety, all electrical cords in the room in which she was free to run were removed. An indoor hutch was made for her so that when there was no one there to supervise her, she had a safe place to live.

According to the House Rabbit Society, a rabbit's housing should provide several things. Rabbits need to be able to fully stretch out in all directions. They require at least two levels, so they may jump up and down for exercise. They need a supply of food, especially hay, as well as water. And, of course, a litter box is needed.

A recent trend in building indoor rabbit hutches is to make a "bunny condo" out of modular storage cubes. Many hardware and home furnishing stores sell 14-inch wire cubes for making modular storage units. These cubes can be used to construct a multilevel rabbit house that provides sufficient space for all the requirements that are specified by the House Rabbit Society.

Building a rabbit condo that is three cubes wide, three cubes high and two cubes deep will create a space measuring more than 28 cubic feet in capacity. This is far more spacious than the average dog carrier that many people use for housing their indoor rabbits.

When building a rabbit condo, several other considerations should be kept in mind. The bare wire floor should never be used by itself, but should be covered with a material such as plywood. For ease in cleaning, covering the floor part of each cube with vinyl tiles, linoleum or rubber mat material is recommended. However, it should not be too slippery a surface, as rabbit feet were designed for hopping on natural earth and grass, not on smooth artificial surfaces.

Numerous plans for rabbit condos are now available across the Internet and most of them would provide all the safety, security and living space a house rabbit needs. Still, they cannot be locked away all the time. Even a rabbit in a fancy condo needs to get out into the house for some good exercise including running and jumping for a few hours every day.

Until next time,

Teia

Internal Dog Parasites

The picture on the left shows a Dipylidium caninum (dog tapeworm - sometimes called a cucumber tapeworm and the picture below shows a Toxocara canis (dog roundworm).

Any dog, whether the dog appears to be clean and/or if it is from a seemingly 'well-to-do home' can get internal parasites (endoparasites).

Roundworms (Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina) are rather like pale earthworms which can grow to about 10cm in length. Both ends of the worm are pointed. Signs that your dog may have roundworms are mild vomiting, having a pot-belly, having a dull coat and either sudden weight gain or sudden weight loss. A puppy might cough or hiccup. You may also see worms wrapped around the dog's stool when it has a bowel movement.

The Life Cycle of the Toxocara canis starts with the bitch eating contaminated feces. The larvae as well as remaining in the intestine, migrate to the mammary glands and the uterus. When puppies feed off the bitch , the larvae enter their system and grow into adult worms within two weeks. The adult round worms lay eggs which hatch into larvae. The larvae burrow through the gut wall to the liver and lungs, causing respiratory problems. Some lay dormant while others are coughed up and re-swallowed. These larvae pass through the stomach into the intestine, where they grow into adult worms and lay thousands more eggs. These eggs are passed out of the dog where they lay waiting for a passerby to eat the feces enabling the cycle to start over.

The Life Cycle of the Toxascaris leonina starts with the eggs being ingested and hatching in the stomach. They do not migrate, but develop in the wall of the intestine, therefore infection to a bitch's puppies does not occur. However, these worms also lay thousands of eggs which pass out of the dog in its stool, where they wait to be eaten and continue the cycle in another dog.

It is, therefore, advisable that pregnant bitches be wormed under a veterinarian's supervision. Puppies should be routinely wormed after the age of two weeks. They should also be wormed either just before or just after going to a new home. Adult dogs should be wormed every six months. However, if you have young children in your household, it is wise to worm your dog every three months.

Tapeworms (Dipylidium caninum) are flat, segmented worms that can grow up to 50cm long. They are not normally seen as a complete worm, as these remain in the dog, but as individual segments loaded with ripe eggs. One of the signs of their presence in a dog is that the abdomen may become distorted. However, the most common sign is the presence of rice-like grains around the anus. These worms can also be seen moving in the dog's feces. They can cause diarrhoea and poor growth development in puppies. They can also get into your children if they get contaminated feces or eggs on their hands and then touch their mouth.

The Life Cycle of Dipylidium caninum starts when a dog swallows a flea, which has itself swallowed an embryonic egg. The larvae develop into adult worms in the small intestine. Specific worming remedies for this type of worm are obtained from a veterinarian (vet). Also ensure that the dog is regularly checked for fleas.

Ticks (Ixodes species) are actually ectoparasites (external parasites) but they are mentioned here because they frequently infect dogs with diseases that can also be passed on to humans. They are brownish-white in colour and can be initially mistaken for a wart, but on closer inspection the legs can be seen, while the head is buried in the epidermis. Having gorged on the dog's blood, it grows to the size of a bean or pea. You may spot ticks when you are grooming the dog or when the dog has an allergic reaction to them and begins scratching. At this time they will appear as red sores. Normally a dog will tolerate one or two ticks without showing any signs of irritation, so if you live in an area where ticks are prevalent, you should check your dog for ticks every time he comes into the house from outside.

The Life Cycle of Ixodes species starts with adult ticks laying eggs that drop on the ground. Larvae hatch and climb onto blades of grass, shrubs, etc., where they wait for a passerby to brush past, thus enabling them to attach themselves onto the hair of the dog or the clothes of the owner. Surgical spirit soaked onto the tick suffocates it, thus loosening its grip. It can then be removed with tweezers. Never attempt to pull the tick off without soaking it first, as the head will remain and cause infection. Treat the bite area with antiseptic to prevent infection. A special dip/shampoo can be obtained from the vet if infestation is severe. Ticks can also be removed by covering them with Vaseline. Vaseline coverage impedes the breathing of the tick so it backs out of the epidermis. Once it backs out of the dog’s skin, it can be picked off and destroyed. You can also use this treatment if you get a tick on you while you are walking your dog in an infested area.

For further information on ticks and your dog, do a query, within this blog, on ticks as there are several entries on these dangerous parasites. The blog search field is at the top left of the blog in the blue band next to the Blogger logo.

Until next time,

Teia

Tips, Techniques and Equipment for Brushing Your Dog

Just back from the groomer.

It is vital that your dog is brushed regularly for several reasons:

1. To avoid discomfort – matted hair is uncomfortable and leads to “hot spots” - areas where air cannot get to the skin and thus skin irritation and infection frequently set in.

2. To help eliminate skin disorders (see above).

3. To prevent an infestation of parasites. If parasites get onto your dog, you will usually see evidence of them when brushing the dog. The earlier you detect the parasites the quicker you can eliminate them.

4. To stop smells from developing. Debris, dirt, bits of food and matted hair, all of which smell, are removed during a thorough brushing.

5. To avoid extra charges at the Veterinarian and the Groomer. Many veterinarians and groomers charge extra when working on dogs with dirty matted hair. Mom and dad's older daughter took her two Cocker Spaniels to a groomer for a haircut and when she went to pay the bill she was shocked to find that the cost was $300 per dog because the groomer had to remove some matted hair from each dog. Needless to say, she no longer uses that groomer. However, most groomers have a $25 to $50 surcharge for dealing with dogs that have matted hair.

6. To remove loose hair, reducing the amount floating around the house.

To ensure that your dog's coat is in tip-top condition and to maintain a healthy pet, it is essential that the ears, eyes, coat, skin and anal area of the dog are checked regularly.

The first steps to brushing the dog:

1. Ensure you have a steady and non-slip work top or table. A rubber bath mat placed on a firm table will do. Do not use a towel as this will slip and slide. Having a firm surface that the dog feels comfortable on will prevent accidents and it will alleviate some of the stress of a thorough brushing.

2. Make sure that the dog knows that this is the place where misbehaving is not allowed. Start if possible as a puppy with regular short sessions. The more comfortable the dog feels on the brushing (grooming) table, the less problems you will have.

3. Make this an enjoyable and pleasurable experience (for both of you) but not a game.

4. The dog must learn through repetition, correction and praise. Do not smack the dog, use voice control.

5.Always reward the dog after brushing, either by treat or physical attention.

6. Take the dog outside to relieve itself before you begin the brushing session and again after you have completed the brushing.

The recommended frequency of brushing your dog's coat varies according to coat texture and length. Seek the advice of an experienced breeder or groomer. As a guide, every dog should be brushed at least once a week, although there are many breeds that need brushing three times a week! Unfortunately, some long haired dogs need to be brushed daily.

Does and Don'ts when brushing ALL types of coats:

1.Do not bathe the dog before thoroughly brushing out, as this tightens any knots present, also shampoo will be difficult to rinse out. Always remember that to prevent dry skin and to keep the natural oils in the dog's hair, restrict the number of baths you give your dog. My groomer recommends a bath only before getting my hair cut unless I get in the mud and get real dirty, then an extra bath can be given. Also remember that dogs require dog shampoo and conditioner as it has the proper PH for dog hair.

2.Do start brushing from the back and work toward the front as this is less sensitive for the skin.

3.Do be systematic, so that you do not miss any areas.

4.Do always hold limbs at a natural angle, no matter how awkward a position the knot or mat may be in.

5.Do remember that with most breeds there is the undercoat to brush too, not just the surface of the coat.

6.Do be firm, but do not smack your dog. Praise once corrected and obeyed.

Techniques of Brushing:

With long-haired dogs, or dense and curly non-shedding haired dogs, be aware that by brushing just on the surface of the coat you will not prevent matting. There is hair all the way down to the skin that needs attention.

Begin at the bottom of the back leg and, using your non brushing hand, lift the hair up and slicker brush underneath, bit by bit, gradually brushing hair down from where you are holding it.

Remember that there are four sides to a leg, front, back, outside and inside. Having worked your way up the leg, start on the belly and use the same method on the body. Always check with a comb, after thoroughly brushing, to check for hidden knots or undetected matted hair.

Take care when brushing near the eyes. The pins of the brush can scratch the eyes and cause permanent damage, sometimes loss of sight. The hock and the belly are also sensitive areas when brushing. Special attention should be given to the zones that tend to mat - underarms, inside legs, behind ears, feathering on thick coated dogs and the ear hair of floppy eared, long-haired dogs.

Basic Tools for Grooming:

Smooth-haired dogs will require a rubber brush to brush against the lie of the coat to loosen hairs. A bristle brush to remove dead skin and surface dirt and also stimulate circulation. A chamois cloth should be used to polish the coat for added sheen. Be gentle, you are not polishing your car!

Short coated dogs will require a slicker brush and a bristle brush. Also use a slicker brush and a bristle brush on long silky coats, which will additionally require a comb to test for remaining knots and matted areas.

Curly, non-shedding coats will require a pin brush and comb.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. My mom and dad brush me and give me emergency baths, but I get my hair cut and my regular bath from a professional groomer. You may want to consider this arrangement too, especially if you have reasonably priced professional groomers in your area. Giving a dog a nice looking hair cut requires a lot of practice. A good quality dog clipper is quite expensive. The clipper blades need to be professionally sharpened on a regular basis and will probably have to be replaced a couple of times during your dog's lifetime.