Drying the Dog

There are various pieces of drying equipment available for both the professional and the non professional groomer to use. The most common dryer for professionals is the free standing hot air blowing dryer. This dryer can also be used by non professionals, but it is rather expensive for home use. Regardless of the type of dryer that you choose, from professional free standing dryers to inexpensive hand held ones, the following techniques apply.

Method of drying medium to long coated breeds.

Having towel dried the dog or used a blaster (if the dog will allow it), place the dog on a non-slip surface, preferably attached via a leash (lead) to a hook in the wall or a frame over the table. In this way, the dog will feel secure when the dryer is directed at him. If the dog is used to being dried, you may start on the head so that the dog warms up quickly, however if the dog is a little timid or fidgety it is best to start from the back and work toward the front, allowing him to become accustomed to it. Pick up the hair using a slicker brush and direct the hot air onto this, not onto the dog's body as it could be too hot. The slicker brush entangles and twists the hair, which allows the roots to dry as well as the hair on the brush. Continue this process until all the hair is dry. Make sure that you are systematic - only move on when the section you are working on is totally dry. Most of today’s dryers have two settings, a high setting and a low setting. Many dogs need the weaker (therefore quieter) of the settings directed at them when working on their heads. Some timid dogs will require the low setting for the entire drying process.

Fluff Drying Poodles, Bichon Frises and Bedlington Terriers.

Having mastered the basic techniques of drying you can move on to fluff drying the curly coats. Unlike the other breeds, do not attempt to completely dry the curly coated dog’s hair before starting to fluff dry. The secret is to towel dry one side more than the other. Start to fluff dry on the side that is driest. The wetter side will begin to dry naturally, but it should only get as dry as the side you towel dried by the time you are ready to fluff dry it. It is important to dry the head first on these breeds so that no hint of a curl is seen. You want the head perfectly dried so that it is ready for shaping. The pom on the poodles should then be dried followed by the legs and body. The slicker brush should be in constant motion throughout, flicking the hair in all four directions. The quicker the flick the better the result! Remember that you are not brushing to remove knots, as these should have been removed before bathing. Therefore to properly fluff dry, pressure is not necessary. It's the correct flicking technique that is vital. Do not move on until the section you are working on is thoroughly dry. Damp curly hair will result in kinks and waves, a coat on which it is impossible to achieve a desirable finish when scissoring. Remember when using the slicker brush to take care around the facial area, the hocks and the belly as these areas are tender and can easily be scratched. If this occurs, not only will the dog bleed, but it will also make it much more difficult to groom it in the future. Bathing, drying and grooming your dog should be a fun and bonding experience for both of you. (If you are a professional, frequent scratching of your customer’s dog will result in loss of that customer.) Take it from me, a good bath, drying, a nice brushing and a hair cut are great, however, a brushing that results in scratches could earn you an introduction to my teeth.

Until next time,

Teia