Feeding Your Dog

My "Sister" Gemma

Medical update - I've lost another half pound in the past week. I went to the vet yesterday and had my stitches removed (put in where the biopsies were conducted and the scarred flesh in my groin was removed to aid in the healing process.) We are still waiting for extra tests, being conducted on the biopsies, to be completed. Once the results are in and if no contra-indications are expected, the vet is going to put me on a two week treatment session of Prednisone, a steroid, to promote increased healing and to clean out any lingering infection. Now onto today's post.

Although us dogs have usually been considered as carnivores, we are actually omnivores, which means that we can eat, enjoy and digest various types of food. We do not require as high a protein diet as cats do. We can live perfectly well on a completely balanced diet, but we do enjoy some variety in our meals.

It doesn't matter whether you use a premium complete commercial diet, or choose to create your own food combinations, you must ensure that our diet is well balanced, containing both proteins and carbohydrates. Our diet must also contain fatty acids, vitamins and minerals to ensure optimum health, proper bodily functions, healthy skin and a healthy coat (hair/fur). Fruit and vegetables are beneficial ingredients to include in our diets. I love apples, mangoes, cantaloupe, bananas, watermelon and strawberries and, to a lesser amount, most other fruits and vegetables. When we are convalescing, boneless chicken or fish mixed with boiled brown rice makes a highly digestible meal.

Active dogs need a higher protein diet than those of us that laze around looking pretty. And, of course, overweight dogs, like my “sister” Bandit, should have fewer calories than those of us that still have slim figures.

All commercially prepared packaged food for dogs contains comprehensive lists of ingredients which should be carefully studied before you make your choice of the food for your dog. For example, my food, which keeps me from getting kidney stones, is made by Royal Canin Canada Company under the brand name “Medi-Cal”. The maintenance variety which I eat contains the following ingredients:

Chicken Meal, Oat flour, Pearled Barley, Rye (the grain not the liquor), Chicken Fat, Corn Gluten Meal, Salmon Meal, Tomato Pomace (source of Lycopene), Flax Meal, natural flour, Dried Beet Pulp, Dried Tomato (source of Lycopene), Apple Pomace, Dried Egg Powder, Fish Oil, Cranberry Meal, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Sulphate, Fructo-Oligosaccharides, Taurine, Salt, Vitamins: [DL-Alpha-Tocopherol (source of Vitamin E), Inositol, Niacin, L-Ascorgyl-2-Polyphosphate (source of Vitamin C), D-Calcium Panothenate, Biotin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Vitamin A Acetate, Folic Acid, Vitamin B12 Supplement and Vitamin D3 Supplement], L-Lysine, Choline Chloride, Potassium Citrate, Marigold Extract (source of Lutein), Trace Minerals: [Zinc Proteinate, Zinc Oxide, Ferrous Sulphate, Manganese Proteinate, Copper Proteinate, Copper Sulphate, Manganous Oxide, Calcium Iodate, Sodium Selenite], Brewer's Yeast Extract (source of Mannan-Oligosaccharides), L-Carnitine, Beta Carotene, L-Glamine. Naturally preserved with mixed Tocopherols, Rosemary Extract and Citric Acid. It is a slightly acidic dog food that is formulated for optimum nutrition and urinary tract health of active adult dogs.

You must always remember that we have sensitive digestive systems and if you change suddenly from one type of diet to another, that we could end up vomiting or having diarrhoea. You must always introduce diet changes gradually mixing the new food in increasing amounts with the current food over the course of a week or so. In this way we can adapt to the new food without adverse results.

Fresh and canned dog food should be removed and disposed of if left uneaten as it tends to spoil quickly after being expose to air. Bacteria quickly forms and could result in your dog becoming ill. Dried dog foods can remain available all day because they contain natural preservatives.

Adult dogs usually require one main meal per day with a light snack at the other end of the day. Since we are more active during the day, the main meal is probably best served in the morning with the snack before bed. In this way, we have the fuel for our active day and a snack before retiring for the night. When the main meal is served at night, it tends to result in more weight gain as the calories we ingest do not get burned up by activity so they add fat to our bodies for later use during energetic times. Unfortunately, many of us produce more fat than we use up as fuel and thus we become overweight. (More about overfeeding and obesity in a later post.)

Your dog's daily meals can be divided into two equally sized meals if desired as this method doesn't result in your dog getting a large meal before retiring. NOTE! Under NO circumstances should your dog be exercised energetically within one-half hour of ingesting a large meal. If you own a large dog, to aid his digestion, you should raise his food dish off the ground so that he does not have to bend so far down to get his food.

Because I have dry dog food, it's available all day and I can eat whenever I want. As a result, I've become a “grazer,” which means that I eat a little every time I get hungry. However, since my “sister,” Bandit came, things are a little different. Bandit guards the food bowl and if she thinks that I want some food, she will gorge herself on it so that there won't be much left for me. This has resulted in me doing the same thing thing to her. As a result, both of us were getting fat until I got sick. It has also led to growling matches and a few fights, so mom and dad are thinking of changing to scheduled meal times, which doesn't suit my style of eating.

Bones are not recommended as they tend to splinter and can cause internal damage. Cooked bones should NEVER be given to a dog as they splinter easily and often result in tragedy. Raw marrow bones can be given to your dog, but they must be discarded if they start to splinter or if they start to smell like they are spoiling.

We must have access to fresh water at all times because proper hydration is an absolute must have condition. Stainless steel bowls for both food and water are the most hygienic and they are much easier for you to clean than bowls made from other material.

If you are considering a raw food diet for your dog, you should see the following:

“Should Your Pets Eat a Raw Diet? Five Considerations Before You Start” published on this blog on Saturday August 15, 2009 and “How to Prepare a Raw Diet for Your Pet(s)” published on this blog on Friday December 18, 2009. You can access these entries by clicking on 2009 and then the appropriate months or by searching “raw diets” via the blog search capability in the top left corner of the blog page.

Until next time,

Teia

Blog Entries

This year has not been kind to us, and as a result, entries have been very sporadic to say the least. Mom and dad went to Regina, Saskatchewan in early January. Shortly after returning home, dad came down with the worst cold he has ever had. No matter what he did, he just could not get rid of it. He felt absolutely terrible, and it lasted for over a month. He just got better as I got sick the first time. We aren't sure what my trouble was, but it seemed to be a doggy version of the flu.

I just got over that when it was time for my yearly check-up and my vaccinations. Fortunately that went well and things started returning to normal. Then about a month ago, I went to the groomer to get my hair cut. She found a big red area in my left groin and a bunch of infected hair follicles in my chin and on the right side of my nose. By the next morning the area in my groin had swollen to the size of half of a large egg. It was bright red with dark red stripe in the centre. Since this was a Sunday, the veterinarian was closed. Overnight, the swollen area ruptured and I had a hole about the size of a dime in my groin which oozed a mixture of blood, puss and plasma. Dad immediately contacted the veterinarian and made arrangements for me to be examined.

The veterinarian determined that I had an infection in my groin and also in the hair follicles on my chin. He prescribed a regimen of antibiotics. Dad took me home and started me on the antibiotics, but at the end of a week, nothing had improved. Back we went to the veterinarian. He checked me out and arranged for me to go to his hospital for a biopsy of the two areas. This was done the next morning. I came home with stitches in my chin and my groin and a head cone to prevent me from licking my groin or scrubbing my face on the carpet. When this was put on me, it made me feel so bad that I just laid like a blob on the floor. Dad felt sorry for me and took the cone off. I tried not to lick my groin, but at night when there was no one looking, I'd lick it. By the weekend, it looked quite good, but Saturday night it got itchy and I licked it a lot. Unfortunately, I licked a stitch out and opened up a big area again. In the morning dad saw the mess and phoned the veterinarian and asked if he could put a band-aid over the opening. The veterinarian advised that he could, but to bring me in to see him on Wednesday.

When I went to the veterinarian on Wednesday, the hole was nearly closed up, so the vet prescribed a more powerful antibiotic and told dad to bring me back in a week for a follow up. He also took a blood sample to see if there was an underlying problem that was preventing my immune system from responding to the antibiotics. The results of the biopsies showed no sign of malignancies, but also failed to determine what caused the infections.

That night my groin got itchy and sore, so I worked my tongue under the band-aid and licked the wound until it opened up again and drained more blood and plasma mixed with puss. In the morning, dad was not happy, so with help from his daughter, he removed the old band-aid and applied three new ones. Two across the incision and then one along the incision over top of the two that are across it. I don't think I'll be able to lick the incision any more. Hopefully, when we go to the vet on Wednesday, the incision will be healed enough that the remaining stitches can be removed. I hope so, as all the visits to the vet have cost dad over one thousand dollars.

I'm feeling a little better now and have started to eat again, which is good, because I have gone from 16 pounds 7 ounces to 14 pounds 9 ounces. The vet is still running more tests to try and determine what caused the infections and how best to treat them. I will try and keep you updated on how I'm doing and what sort of treatment is decided upon.

Until next time,

Teia


PS from Dad.

It is very distressing when your beloved pet is not well, and very hard to concentrate on daily activities when you cannot do something to ease their pain and discomfort. Hopefully, this episode will soon have a happy ending and Teia and I can get back to providing more regular postings on this blog.

Pedigree Cats

Most people buy pedigree kittens from cat breeders who usually breed a specific breed of cats. For example, if you wish to obtain a pedigree Siamese kitten, you should find a breeder who specializes in that breed. Usually these breeders are people who professionally breed cats to sell and/or show. They are very proud and knowledgeable about the breed they specialize in.

Once you have determined that you want a cat that has a pedigree, you need to find someone who breeds that type of cat. Ideally, you should get a breeder's name from someone who has already purchased a kitten from them. In this way, you can see the type of cat the breeder sells and determine if it meets your requirements. If you do not know anyone with the type of cat you wish to buy, then you can look in the pet section of your local newspaper to see if anyone local is selling this type of cat. You can also check with your local veterinarian as they usually have personal knowledge of all local cat and dog breeders.

Many cat magazines have listings of breeders near the back of the magazine. Or, you can call national organizations for listings of registered breeders. Another source is the Internet. For example a query of “siamese kittens for sale” performed on May 8, 2010, resulted in 163,000 responses from all over the world, so you should probably add some additional qualifications to your query to narrow down the number of responses, such as “toronto siamese kittens for sale” which resulted in 8010 responses which is still a large number, but a little more manageable.

Many professional breeders will usually have a range of ages of kittens for sale, from six weeks to six months old. Kittens under three months of age are the most popular, and you can expect to pay several hundred dollars for a quality pedigree kitten. Cat rescue groups and your local Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) could also have kittens, but usually their pedigree is questionable, unless they were seized from a registered breeder.

You want to make sure that the breeder you choose is registered with a national cat registry and has been breeding cats for at least five years. (This ensures that their business and the lineage of their kittens is solid.) They should be able to give you a certificate of pedigree with the kitten to prove it's a purebred animal.

Find out if the breeder offers a written guarantee about the kitten's health. Also make sure they will give you a refund or exchange if the kitten develops a disease or genetic problem within the first six months to a year. Reputable breeders are more than happy to meet these conditions. If they are reluctant, or refuse, you do not want to do business with them - find another breeder.

Some pet stores sell pedigree kittens, although most are likely to only carry non-pedigree kittens. Most pet store kittens are young, usually under 12 weeks of age. They are often kept together in a pen or crate, which is great for display purposes, but not so great if one of the kittens becomes ill, because then all of the kittens would be exposed to that illness. Pet store kittens are often placed in the main area of the store. This is so people can get close to the kittens and even hold them if they want. Although this is a bit risky, it does socialize the kittens at an early age, which is a desirable thing.

If you are interested in a pet store kitten, try to find out how the store got the animals - from a breeder, pet wholesaler, or maybe just a neighbourhood family looking to place a litter from their cat. The source of the kittens matters, because it should be reflected in the price the store is charging for the kittens. Prices at pet stores can range from about fifty dollars to several hundred dollars for a pedigree kitten. (Again the actual pedigree of the animal is questionable because many pet stores do not provide a certificate of pedigree with the kitten.)

Whatever method you use to locate a pedigree kitten, if you do thorough research, you will find a great kitten which will give you many years of faithful companionship.

Until next time,

Teia