What You Should Know Before Buying a Parrot for a Pet

It is very delightful to be in the presence of such magnificent creatures as Parrots! Their stunning colour combinations and attention grabbing mimicry create quite an impression on both young and old alike. Mom and dad have owned three Parrots. An orange-winged Amazon Parrot called “Bert,” a lilac-crowned Amazon Parrot called “Rascal” and a blue and gold Macaw called “Bucko.” They purchased “Bert” from a pet store in Ottawa, Ontario in 1981. He loved to go camping with the family and sat on a perch mounted on the inside of the passengers’ window of the car. Once, this proved to be a problem when he decided that he wanted to visit dad while he was driving down the freeway at 100 kilometres per hour. He ran across the dashboard and jumped onto the top of the steering wheel. It’s not easy to steer a car with a Parrot blocking your view of the road. Fortunately, dad was able to safely slow the car and then get “Bert” to climb onto his hand so he could pass the Parrot to mom who placed him back on his perch. When the family moved to Regina, Saskatchewan in 1982, both of mom and dad were working full time and “Bert” got lonely by himself, so they purchased “Rascal” at a Regina pet store so he would have some company. That turned out to be a bad move. The two Parrots got along fine, but neither of them wanted to have anything to do with any member of the family. “They had each other.” Mom and dad's older daughter bought “Bucko” from a Regina pet store in 1988, when he was two years old. He was like having a permanent one and one-half year old child. He got into everything he could think of. Once, he climbed up the shelves in the pantry and removed the labels off all of the canned goods and chewed all of the boxes off the boxed groceries. For weeks the family never knew what was being opened until the lid was off the can. It’s a little difficult to make chili when you open a can of sliced peaches instead of a can of kidney beans. As the result of this incident, childproof locks were put on all of the cupboard doors.

“Bucko” did not like red hats. One day the electrical meter reader, wearing a red hat, entered the back yard. Bucko’s cage gave him a good view of the back yard through the patio doors. He spotted the red hat and let out a blood curdling screech. The meter reader jumped, looked around wildly and ran as fast as he could to read the electrical meter on the side of the house, then ran back out of the yard leaving all the gates open. He never came back again. The family doesn't know if he was assigned a different route or if he quit.

So, have you been thinking about buying a Parrot of your own? Parrots are quite unlike any other pet and they have distinct attributes that make them both loveable and frustrating. Before you choose to own a Parrot, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with some of their qualities to ensure that they will fit with your lifestyle.

LIFE SPAN

Are you planning to commit to a pet for your entire lifetime? While a dog may average 10 to 15 years and a cat slightly longer, some species of Parrots live up to 75 years or longer. That means that not only will the bird live as long as you, but quite likely it will survive you and its living arrangements will need to be provided for. Many people who own Parrots have them provided for in their wills. If you leave your Parrot to a child or other relative, as you get older, make sure that the person who is going to get the Parrot through the provisions of the will still wants to get it. Circumstances change with time, and you may have to make different arrangements.

Because of their long lives, many Parrots find themselves in new homes several times during their lifetime. Despite your loving commitment, your bird will likely need a new home when you are no longer able to care for it. You don't want your aged bird to suffer the stress of constantly changing homes so determine what arrangements can be made to satisfy your bird's needs.

MESS

Birds are messy - no matter what species. Their natural instinct to spread seed throughout the forest has not disappeared and you will need to deal with the seeds thrown out of the cage on a daily basis. Leaving seeds strewn about can attract rodents and become a source of bacteria.

Parrots will also produce a fair amount of waste every day. Not cleaning their cages and dishes routinely can lead to infections and diseases. It is also not healthy for the humans who live with the bird.

Parrots that are allowed to roam freely can also cause extensive damage to furniture and other items. Large species like the Macaw have a strong bite and can chew furniture, rip wallpaper or knock items over.

NOISE

While you may find their calls and chattering adorable, your neighbours may not. Different species have different vocalizations. If you live in attached or semi-attached housing, you may have to rule out certain species like Cockatoos which are extremely loud. Cockatoos are also very active chewers and cannot be left unattended or your furniture will be demolished.

RESPONSIBILITY

Owning a Parrot is a privilege and with that comes responsibility. Taking care of your bird does not have to be costly if you clean and feed your bird properly but you will have to invest in proper housing so your bird is comfortable. Parrot cages are quite large, so as well as being quite expensive, they take up quite a bit of space. The family that eventually bought “Bert” and “Rascal” converted one of their bedrooms into a bird room. They put in thick wooden wallboard and mounted perches on the walls. Swings and other bird toys were hung from the ceiling. The room contained no furniture at all. When we asked why they were doing this, they responded, “Our kids have moved away and these birds are now part of the family. As family members they are entitled to their own room.” Now that is dedication to your pets!

If you have other pets, such as dogs or cats, you must protect your Parrot from being harmed. Never leave other pets alone with your Parrot. Smaller Parrots could become a meal. However, if you have a Macaw or Cockatoo, the other pets could become a chew toy. Our family was fortunate because all of our pets got along really well with each other. Even so, when the family went out, the birds were locked in their cages and the dogs were confined to another part of the house. As pet owners you are always responsible for making sure that they are always as safe as possible.

Many Parrots will also develop strong attachments for a certain individual in the family. While the growing loyalty may be appreciated by the favoured person, it can cause problems when birds become overly protective of their loved one. On the other hand, a Parrot is a social and intelligent bird which will become easily bored. A home with a number of people that can talk to and amuse the bird or a single owner who has time to give plenty of attention to the bird would be best.

You may find that your Parrot craves the company of another bird. This is particularly true when the bird matures (around 5-8 years for the larger species). When a mate was provided for “Bert” he lost all interest in the family and spent all of his time with his new mate. However, if you decide to provide a mate for your Parrot, you must also take responsibility for the increased care required for two birds and also keep in mind the possible babies that may arrive.

Parrots bring great joy to the lives of individuals who appreciate them despite the work and noise involved. You owe it to your pet to learn as much as possible about its care so you can commit to your pet and provide a loving home for as long as possible.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets: Chinchillas

Chinchillas are small sized crepuscular rodents belonging to the Chinchillidae family. They are almost the size of a rabbit. They originated in the Andes Mountains of South America. There are two different species of Chinchilla, Chinchilla Lanigera and Chinchilla Brevicaudata. Although they look almost similar, the tail and ears of Chinchilla Brevicaudata are shorter, its shoulders and neck are broader and it is found in the wild. The Chinchilla Lanigera species can be kept as pets. Their standard colour is grey and they can also be found in ebony, beige and other colours.

Wild Chinchillas are an endangered species. Chinchillas can be kept as domestic pets, but are very shy animals and are not good with small children. Because of their fragile bone structure, they should be handled with care and that might be the reason why Chinchillas don’t like it when people hold them in their hands.

The life span of Chinchillas is about fifteen years, when kept in captivity, although some live for twenty or more years. Chinchillas are nocturnal animals and they are quite noisy. They make squeaks, barks and chirps. They make these noises to express their moods. They use a sweet chirping sound to attract another Chinchilla for mating. They bark loudly when they get aggressive or scared. Chinchillas are social animals and can be kept together. When keeping Chinchillas of the opposite sex, they should be neutered. A group of same sex Chinchillas will do well if they are introduced to each other when young. Older Chinchillas can be added to the group, but it has to be done very slowly or there is a chance of them fighting.

Chinchillas are very playful animals. If they cannot have a room of their own, then their cage should be very large and should contain an arrangement of shelves, which they will jump and play on. Toys like large wheels measuring more than eight inches in radius, hanging wooden toys, and paper towel cylinders can also be placed in the cage. Care should be taken that none of the objects they are given should be of mesh construction as there is a possibility of Chinchillas getting their feet or toes stuck in the mesh. When they are given wooden toys or wooden chew sticks the material shouldn’t be conifer wood because it contains resins which are poisonous to Chinchillas. Plastic should never be placed in their cage because their sharp teeth will quickly shred it and the plastic pieces or shavings could block their intestines if swallowed. The cage should be very airy and the bedding shouldn’t be cedar wood. Birch, apple tree, willow, and Manzanita are good options for wooden toys, chew sticks and bedding.

Temperatures should be maintained below seventy-seven degrees Fahrenheit, because Chinchillas don’t have sweat glands. When the temperatures get too high, they get overheated and get heat stroke. Since the animals are hyper active, they should be made to spend at least half an hour outside their cage to exercise, with supervision. They clean their fur many times a week by taking dust baths. A container filled with special Chinchilla dust, made from sand and fine pumice, should be kept in their cage for bathing purposes. Chinchillas shouldn’t be given wet baths because their fur has the ability to retain moisture and this could result in a fungal growth. If, in an emergency, it is necessary to give a chinchilla a wet bath, they should be dried very fast with the help of a blow dryer on a LOW setting. (Remember their susceptibility to heat strokes.)

Chinchillas shouldn’t be given a sweet or fatty diet, like nuts and fruits, as their digestive system is very delicate. Their main diet should be a hay-based pellet and loose hay. On very rare occasions, they can be given small pieces of papaya or raisins. If they are fed sugar or other sweet products, they have a tendency to develop either diabetes or diarrhoea, both of which could be fatal. Even fresh vegetables could block their digestive system which would be very dangerous.

The original cause of the extinction of some types of Chinchillas and the near decimation of others is that they were killed in huge numbers for their superb soft feeling fur. Although the nearly extinct wild species are no longer hunted for fur, the domestic species are especially bred for this purpose. There are many fur farms where Chinchillas are bred in large numbers. Some of these fur farms keep their Chinchillas in terrible conditions and do not humanely kill them. This has resulted in confrontations with the group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA).

Over that past few years, Chinchillas have become very popular as pets, so quite a few pet stores have one or more on hand. If you are interested in getting one, make sure that you do proper research and talk to knowledgeable pet store staff.

Until next time,

Teia

Building Housing for Pet Rabbits

Ask most people about pets and you will probably hear a response that talks about dogs or cats. In more rare circumstances a pet owner will be a fancier of guinea pigs, hamsters, gerbils or even more exotic animals such as snakes, spiders or lizards. But there is a growing trend toward smaller mammals, including ferrets, rats and especially rabbits.

Rabbits are unusual in our society because they are one of the few animals that are viewed as food by some people and as pets by others. The number of homes that have indoor rabbits has been increasing at such a pace that there now exists a House Rabbit Society which rescues abandoned and abused rabbits and distributes useful information on keeping rabbits safely and in a healthy manner within a home situation. In Canada, rabbits have been kept as pets for more than 35 years, but people in other countries are quickly learning that rabbits make great pets. They are trainable and they are quiet, which is a big plus for someone living in an apartment.

One feature about a rabbit that interferes with them enjoying free run within a home is their propensity for chewing. Although rabbits can be successfully trained to use a litter box, it is more difficult for them to be convinced not to chew such things as furniture legs and electrical wires. This is why many owners of house rabbits seek an indoor hutch or rabbit cage in which their long-eared pets may be kept when they cannot be supervised. Mom and dad's younger daughter had a pet rabbit, called “Amy,” in the early 1980's. She was very affectionate, but you had to watch her very carefully when she was loose because she loved to chew electrical wires. Extension cords and lamp cords were her favourites. If you took your eyes off her for a second, she would snip an electrical cord with her razor sharp teeth. Fearing for her safety, all electrical cords in the room in which she was free to run were removed. An indoor hutch was made for her so that when there was no one there to supervise her, she had a safe place to live.

According to the House Rabbit Society, a rabbit's housing should provide several things. Rabbits need to be able to fully stretch out in all directions. They require at least two levels, so they may jump up and down for exercise. They need a supply of food, especially hay, as well as water. And, of course, a litter box is needed.

A recent trend in building indoor rabbit hutches is to make a "bunny condo" out of modular storage cubes. Many hardware and home furnishing stores sell 14-inch wire cubes for making modular storage units. These cubes can be used to construct a multilevel rabbit house that provides sufficient space for all the requirements that are specified by the House Rabbit Society.

Building a rabbit condo that is three cubes wide, three cubes high and two cubes deep will create a space measuring more than 28 cubic feet in capacity. This is far more spacious than the average dog carrier that many people use for housing their indoor rabbits.

When building a rabbit condo, several other considerations should be kept in mind. The bare wire floor should never be used by itself, but should be covered with a material such as plywood. For ease in cleaning, covering the floor part of each cube with vinyl tiles, linoleum or rubber mat material is recommended. However, it should not be too slippery a surface, as rabbit feet were designed for hopping on natural earth and grass, not on smooth artificial surfaces.

Numerous plans for rabbit condos are now available across the Internet and most of them would provide all the safety, security and living space a house rabbit needs. Still, they cannot be locked away all the time. Even a rabbit in a fancy condo needs to get out into the house for some good exercise including running and jumping for a few hours every day.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets: Cheetahs

Cheetahs have been kept as pets for more than five thousand years and can be traced back to ancient Egypt where they were initially used for hunting.. They originated in Africa, but can now be found in other parts of the world such as Central Asia and Iran. Scientifically known as Acinonyx Jubatus, they are the fastest of all land animals. However, they aren’t good at climbing trees like other cats. Their acceleration rate is phenomenal, as they are capable of reaching a speed of seventy miles per hour within three seconds. (That is faster than most super cars.)

The length of the cheetah’s body is between forty-five and fifty-five inches and their weight ranges from ninety to one hundred and forty pounds. They have an elongated body with a small head and narrow waist, which gives them the aerodynamics needed for quick acceleration and high speed. Cheetahs have semi-retractable blunt claws which help them to get a good grip during fast pursuits. The colour of the cheetah’s coarse fur is tan with small black spots which provides it with some camouflage when hunting. Its tail, which is thirty-three inches long, is encircled with five to six black stripes. This long tail helps it take sharp turns because it acts like a rudder. Black lines which start from its eyes and run along the sides of the nose toward the mouth are called tear marks. These lines enable the Cheetah to see long distances and minimize the glare of the sun.

Cheetahs are very easy to train. They are also very caring animals. They make noises such as chirps, yowls, yips, growls and hisses and their purr is very noisy. Unlike other big cats, they do not have the ability to roar. Cheetahs are diurnal, whereas all other wild cats are nocturnal. They are carnivorous animals and mainly hunt for small mammals. Cheetahs usually hunt at dawn and dusk when the air is cooler. They hunt not by smell but by vision. Nearly 50 percent of their attempts to catch prey end in failure as they give up fast. One of the reasons could be the immense heat generated while running, which seriously fatigues them. As a result, they rest for at least half an hour after an intense chase. Cheetahs have the ability to make the sounds of some birds and they use it to lure these birds to within catching distance.

Cheetahs always watch for animals which stray a distance from the herd. They will chase this animal and trip it. After the animal falls, the Cheetah suffocates the animal by biting out its throat because it does not have the strength to break the animal’s neck. For some reason they do not hunt weak or old animals. During high speed chases, Cheetahs use their big nostrils to get enough oxygen. They also have an enlarged heart and lungs which utilize the oxygen to the maximum by increasing the respiratory rate while running.

Cheetahs are now considered an endangered species. Many organizations and laws have been implemented to help save them. One of the reasons for their demise is that they are environmentally sensitive and their natural environment is disappearing.

When held in captivity, they should be provided with a habitat as close to their natural habitat as possible or else they will not survive. Studies have proven that there is a lack of genetic diversity in Cheetahs which are held in captivity. They don’t reproduce regularly like other felines and find it difficult to breed. Also, their life span decreases and their rate of survival is low.

In developed areas, Cheetahs have been killed on a large scale by farmers protecting their cattle. These farmers are now being provided with dogs that can guard the livestock and scare away the wild Cheetah. Poachers have also been hunting the Cheetah for its fur, which has a beautiful pattern.

To obtain a permit to keep Cheetahs as pets is not only a big problem for individual owners, but also for zoos. People who have a passion for Cheetahs and haven’t got permission to own one, can donate generously to preserve the species.

Until next time,

Teia

Internal Dog Parasites

The picture on the left shows a Dipylidium caninum (dog tapeworm - sometimes called a cucumber tapeworm and the picture below shows a Toxocara canis (dog roundworm).

Any dog, whether the dog appears to be clean and/or if it is from a seemingly 'well-to-do home' can get internal parasites (endoparasites).

Roundworms (Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina) are rather like pale earthworms which can grow to about 10cm in length. Both ends of the worm are pointed. Signs that your dog may have roundworms are mild vomiting, having a pot-belly, having a dull coat and either sudden weight gain or sudden weight loss. A puppy might cough or hiccup. You may also see worms wrapped around the dog's stool when it has a bowel movement.

The Life Cycle of the Toxocara canis starts with the bitch eating contaminated feces. The larvae as well as remaining in the intestine, migrate to the mammary glands and the uterus. When puppies feed off the bitch , the larvae enter their system and grow into adult worms within two weeks. The adult round worms lay eggs which hatch into larvae. The larvae burrow through the gut wall to the liver and lungs, causing respiratory problems. Some lay dormant while others are coughed up and re-swallowed. These larvae pass through the stomach into the intestine, where they grow into adult worms and lay thousands more eggs. These eggs are passed out of the dog where they lay waiting for a passerby to eat the feces enabling the cycle to start over.

The Life Cycle of the Toxascaris leonina starts with the eggs being ingested and hatching in the stomach. They do not migrate, but develop in the wall of the intestine, therefore infection to a bitch's puppies does not occur. However, these worms also lay thousands of eggs which pass out of the dog in its stool, where they wait to be eaten and continue the cycle in another dog.

It is, therefore, advisable that pregnant bitches be wormed under a veterinarian's supervision. Puppies should be routinely wormed after the age of two weeks. They should also be wormed either just before or just after going to a new home. Adult dogs should be wormed every six months. However, if you have young children in your household, it is wise to worm your dog every three months.

Tapeworms (Dipylidium caninum) are flat, segmented worms that can grow up to 50cm long. They are not normally seen as a complete worm, as these remain in the dog, but as individual segments loaded with ripe eggs. One of the signs of their presence in a dog is that the abdomen may become distorted. However, the most common sign is the presence of rice-like grains around the anus. These worms can also be seen moving in the dog's feces. They can cause diarrhoea and poor growth development in puppies. They can also get into your children if they get contaminated feces or eggs on their hands and then touch their mouth.

The Life Cycle of Dipylidium caninum starts when a dog swallows a flea, which has itself swallowed an embryonic egg. The larvae develop into adult worms in the small intestine. Specific worming remedies for this type of worm are obtained from a veterinarian (vet). Also ensure that the dog is regularly checked for fleas.

Ticks (Ixodes species) are actually ectoparasites (external parasites) but they are mentioned here because they frequently infect dogs with diseases that can also be passed on to humans. They are brownish-white in colour and can be initially mistaken for a wart, but on closer inspection the legs can be seen, while the head is buried in the epidermis. Having gorged on the dog's blood, it grows to the size of a bean or pea. You may spot ticks when you are grooming the dog or when the dog has an allergic reaction to them and begins scratching. At this time they will appear as red sores. Normally a dog will tolerate one or two ticks without showing any signs of irritation, so if you live in an area where ticks are prevalent, you should check your dog for ticks every time he comes into the house from outside.

The Life Cycle of Ixodes species starts with adult ticks laying eggs that drop on the ground. Larvae hatch and climb onto blades of grass, shrubs, etc., where they wait for a passerby to brush past, thus enabling them to attach themselves onto the hair of the dog or the clothes of the owner. Surgical spirit soaked onto the tick suffocates it, thus loosening its grip. It can then be removed with tweezers. Never attempt to pull the tick off without soaking it first, as the head will remain and cause infection. Treat the bite area with antiseptic to prevent infection. A special dip/shampoo can be obtained from the vet if infestation is severe. Ticks can also be removed by covering them with Vaseline. Vaseline coverage impedes the breathing of the tick so it backs out of the epidermis. Once it backs out of the dog’s skin, it can be picked off and destroyed. You can also use this treatment if you get a tick on you while you are walking your dog in an infested area.

For further information on ticks and your dog, do a query, within this blog, on ticks as there are several entries on these dangerous parasites. The blog search field is at the top left of the blog in the blue band next to the Blogger logo.

Until next time,

Teia

Bottle-feeding Exotic Cubs and Kittens

Cubs and kittens should stay with their mother for at least six weeks and preferably for eight weeks, after which they can be separated. When cubs and kittens are separated from their mothers, they still need to be supplied with a calcium enriched diet to ensure the healthy growth of bones, teeth, gums and joints. Bottle-feeding is also done as a means of developing a strong bond between you and your new exotic animal. Experts suggest that guests and strangers who visit your house frequently should also bottle feed the animal. This will help the animal overcome initial hesitation and fear of newcomers.

There are many compositions which can be used to make a perfect bottle-feed. A cup of unflavoured pedialyte or distilled water can be mixed with a quarter cup of zoologic milk powder and one millilitre of "poli vi sol" liquid baby vitamins. A teaspoon of calcium powder can also be added, along with half a teaspoon of taurine powder. Half a cup of fat-free plain yogurt can also be added to make the formula more concentrated. The bacterium found in yogurt also helps the immature animal to digest the food properly. Do not use sugar because it can lead to diarrhoea which can be devastating to a young animal. After a few weeks, a very small amount of plain puree chicken baby food can be added to the formula and this can be increased over time. All the ingredients can be mixed in a blender and then fed via a baby bottle to the young animal. Leftover mixture should be refrigerated and used within a day. If not used within twenty-four hours it should be discarded, because it will spoil. Before feeding the mixture, it should be warmed. If the mixture was stored in the refrigerator and then warmed, any leftovers should be discarded. Young animals are very susceptible to illnesses caused by milk formula that isn’t fresh.

Care must also be taken while heating the formula. It should never be heated in a microwave. Instead boil some water and place the hot water in a bowl containing the bottle for about five to seven minutes. The formula temperature should be checked by shaking a drop from the bottle onto the underside of your wrist. It should be warm, but not hot enough to feel uncomfortable. If the formula is too warm, it can hurt the animal internally. Also remember that baby animals have a habit of drinking the formula very fast, so if hot milk is supplied, it will be too late to prevent injury once the bottle is given to the baby. The bottle should have a special nipple called the vet nipple, which is small and not round at the end. The baby animal SHOULD NOT be laid on its back like a human baby, as that would make the formula enter its lungs and cause pneumonia. The baby animal should be fed while sitting in an upright position or while lying on the stomach.

When introducing the baby animal to a new formula, give him time to adjust to it. Start by giving a diluted mixture and then increase the concentration gradually. If the animal suffers from diarrhoea, decrease the concentration immediately. It could take weeks for the animal to start feeding on actual concentrated formula. A log can be maintained about the concentration of the formula, the status of stool and the baby’s weight. This diary will help to determine the cause of diarrhoea and also will help to improve the diet of the animal. If the diarrhoea isn’t treated promptly, the baby animal could die of dehydration very quickly. Also if the animal is taking less formula and is also losing weight, this could be an indication of some disease, so consult your exotic animal veterinarian immediately.

Baby animals should be fed meals which are about 5 percent of their body weight until they become mature. This principle must always be kept in mind, as there is a chance of over feeding. Instead of giving a few large doses of formula, give frequent small doses. Also, the animal should be encouraged to go to the bathroom before the mealtime, when you have had it for more than four weeks. Baby animals pass a lot of urine and you should be ready for that. If your baby animal refuses to feed at regular intervals, it might be because its bladder is full. However, if the animal refuses to have anything for twenty-four hours, it should be taken to an exotic animal veterinarian immediately. The one exception to this rule is when the baby animal is first separated from its mother, as it may take up to forty-eight to successfully start bottle-feeding.

Always remember when dealing with exotic animals, your exotic animal veterinarian is a treasure trove of valuable information that should be consulted frequently.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets – The Hamster

Heaps of fun and a lot more cuddly than a gold fish, Hamsters make great pets for both adults and children. During the final decade of the last century and the first few years of this century, millions of homes had at least one pet Hamster. Hamsters are still among the most popular small pets and with good reason.

Hamsters have many advantages as pets. Because they are nocturnal, Hamsters are well suited for people who work or attend school all day. Another advantage is that they have almost no odour and are generally clean and easy to look after.

There are three common species of hamsters, each of which has its individual characteristics. It is, therefore, important to choose the species that most closely matches the desires and personality of the person who will become the care giver. The most common variety is the Syrian or Golden Hamster. These are the largest Hamsters, measuring around five inches in length. They are also the gentlest species, tolerant in nature and suitable for young children. Syrian Hamsters are solitary creatures and should not be kept in groups. The Russian or dwarf Hamster, as the name suggests, is much smaller in size and more social. They can be reared in pairs or small groups. However, they are more lively and active, but less tolerant of careless handling and may, therefore, not be suitable for very young children. Chinese Hamsters are also small like the Russian Hamster, but they are more placid in nature and tend to be timid.

When selecting a Hamster it's best to pick an inquisitive, alert and active animal. Not only will they make a pet that is more fun than a lethargic or quiet one, but these features are also indicative of the animal’s general health. Clear eyes, nostrils free of discharge and a clean coat, free of droppings are also good things to look for when purchasing a Hamster. Diarrhoea and respiratory problems are relatively common among Hamsters so look for any evidence of diarrhoea or laboured breathing. Diarrhoea can be particularly harsh to Hamsters as their tiny bodies soon become dehydrated.

Another deadly Hamster disease is "Wet Tail.” This is caused by a tapeworm and is often fatal. Symptoms are scruffy appearance, loss of appetite and a distinctively wet tail! This is a highly contagious disease and bedding and other material used by an infected animal should be destroyed. To avoid this problem, it is important to keep the Hamster's cage clean. Hamsters are quite fastidious in their grooming and will often use a specific area of the cage as a toilet while allocating other areas for food storage and other activities. Clean regularly but not too often as frequent intrusion into its territory could stress your Hamster. About once or twice a week is best.

Hamsters need to be active and lack of exercise could result in paralysis. Some animals are actually known to get addicted to activities such as the Hamster wheel. It is important to ensure that your Hamster has lots of variety in the toys and activities you provide for it.

Hamsters also need a varied diet but aren't difficult to feed. Many mixes are commercially available including sunflower seeds, cereal, millet and alfalfa but they will also eat fruits such as apples, raisins and grapes plus vegetables like carrots and celery. Hamsters have sharp incisors which continue to grow. They need to gnaw on hard material to ensure these teeth wear down naturally. If they don't get enough wear, these teeth may grow too long and restrict your Hamsters ability to feed itself. It is, therefore, mandatory that you provide something in your Hamster’s cage that it can chew. Knowledgeable pet store staff should be able to recommend something that wears down the teeth but does not lead to your Hamster ingesting something that could cause it harm.

You Hamster needs bedding at least 2 inches deep so that it can burrow down into the bedding making it feel secure while sleeping. Suitable bedding can be purchased at most pet stores. Bedding usually consists of wood shavings with cedar, pine or a mixture of both, being the most popular. It is best to avoid woods that are contaminated with toxins, dust or strong oils as these may cause skin allergies or illness in more sensitive animals.

As with any creature with sharp teeth, Hamsters may on occasion nip an unwary handler. This can be unnerving, especially for young children. Usually this problem can be overcome as handler and Hamster become more accustomed to each other. Perhaps another concern could be that a Hamster's average life span is only about two to three years. All in all however, the positives seem to outweigh the negatives and Hamsters can be truly delightful pets giving many hours of joy.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets: Chameleons

Chameleons are members of the lizard family. The name “Chameleon” came from the Greek words “chamai” and “leon,” meaning earth lion. The size of Chameleons varies from one inch to thirty-one inches in length. Chameleons are kept as exotic pets because people are fascinated by their colour changing ability. They change colours to camouflage themselves, to communicate with each other and to regulate their body temperature.

Chameleons do not have the ability to change colours from birth. They are either brown or grey in colour when they are born. As they age, they start by changing to one or two colours and when they reach five months of age, they gain total control of the colour changing ability and are able to change to many colours like green, black, turquoise and blue green. Various colours show emotions such as stress, sense of temperature change and excitement while other colours are used to communicate with other Chameleons. Brighter colours exhibit a good mood; darker colours such as black, grey and brown depict stress. When a Chameleon starts to change from one colour to another, frequently they will momentarily exhibit a few other colours.

The main things that the different Chameleon species have in common are their foot structure, their eyes, their lack of ears and their tongue. Chameleons have a very long tongue so that they can catch flying prey. They have the ability to stretch their tongue up to one and half times the length of their body. The tongue whips out faster than we can see, travelling at 26 body lengths per second. The tongue hits the prey in about 30 thousandths of a second —— one tenth of a human eye blink. A Chameleon's tongue has a sticky tip on the end, which allows them to catch prey that they would otherwise never be able to reach because of their lack of physical speed. The tongue's tip is a bulbous ball of muscle and as it contacts prey, it rapidly forms a small suction cup. Once the tongue sticks to prey, it is drawn quickly back into the mouth, where the Chameleon's strong jaws crush the prey and then consume it. Even a small Chameleon is capable of eating a large locust or praying mantis.

On each foot the Chameleon has five toes that are fused into a group of two and a group of three, giving the foot the appearance of a set of tongs. These specialized feet allow Chameleons to tightly grip narrow branches. Since they spend a lot of their life in the tree tops, this is a necessity. Each toe is equipped with a sharp claw to gain traction on surfaces such as bark when climbing. The claws make it easy to see how many toes are fused into each part of the foot: two toes on the outside of each front foot and three on the inside and the reverse pattern on each hind foot.

Their eyes are more distinctive than the eyes of other reptiles. The upper and lower eyelids are joined, leaving only a pinhole large enough for the pupil to see through. Each eye can rotate and focus separately, allowing a Chameleon to observe two different objects simultaneously. In effect, it gives them a full 360-degree arc of vision. When prey is located, both eyes can be focused in the same direction, giving Chameleons sharp stereoscopic vision and depth perception. The eyes are used to watch out for enemies as well as to hunt for food. Along with insects and slugs Chameleons also eat plants.

Chameleons, like snakes, don't have an outer or a middle ear. This suggests that Chameleons might be deaf. However, some or maybe all Chameleons, can communicate via vibrations that travel through solid material like branches.

Chameleons should not be the first pet that a person obtains. Although Chameleons aren’t the toughest of all exotic pets to look after, they are also not the easiest to handle. Their requirements are very comprehensive and owners frequently get tired of them because of this. But, if you have made up your mind that you want a Chameleon as a pet and you are committed to all the work needed to keep one, then you should certainly consider getting a Chameleon. Make sure that you purchase one that has been brought up in captivity and is trained. The ones that come directly from the wild are quite dangerous, they have a possibility of being infected and it is very difficult for them to adjust to a captive environment. They will also be severely stressed, which will be a big hindrance in training and it could lead to illness or death. You must also remember that many countries have laws prohibiting the exporting of Chameleons, however, that does not stop poachers from doing so. As a result you could be buying an illegal pet and contributing to the continuation of wildlife poaching.

When selecting your pet, check its health, which can be determined by close observation. The Chameleon should be able to change colours and also should be active. It should be brightly coloured and the skin of the body should be smooth and not scaly. Males are easier to maintain because their nutritional requirements are less critical.

Numerous species of Chameleon are available in the exotic pet trade. Jackson's Chameleon, the Panther Chameleon and the Veiled Chameleon are by far the most common in captivity. Most species of Chameleons are listed on CITES and therefore are either banned from exportation from their native countries or have strict quotas placed on the numbers exported. However, lack of enforcement in what are mostly poor countries reduces the effectiveness of this listing.

Chameleons are solitary animals and their camouflaging ability explains it very clearly. They don’t like to be handled, so few will allow you to pet them. Basically, they should be put in a cage with lots of foliage, which caters to their need of climbing trees, as well giving them their desired privacy. They shouldn’t be kept with other pets and it is a really bad idea to keep two male Chameleons together as they will fight and injure each other.

Until next time,

Teia

A Traditional Pet - The Canary

The canary originated in the Canary Islands which were named not for the bird, but for the large fierce dogs kept by the local people. “Insula canaria” is Latin for “island of the dogs” and over time the name came to be the Canary Islands. A small local grayish green finch with a touch of yellow on its breast was given the name Canary after the Islands. The males of this breed of finch had a wonderful song prompting some of the locals to capture them and put them in cages in their homes.

European travellers visiting these islands heard the songs of these birds and requested that the locals catch them so they could take them home as pets. From the early fifteen hundreds onward, hundreds of thousands of these birds were exported to Europe. Early on, it was observed that Canaries are very susceptible to air pollution. As a result, because coal mining was big business, the miners began taking caged Canaries down into the mines. When the Canary died, the miners knew that coal gas was present and they evacuated the mine before the coal gas exploded. The lives of many miners were saved by these great little birds. Because of the popularity of these birds, European entrepreneurs began breeding them locally. Through selective breeding and cross breeding them with local and imported finches, this drab finch was slowly changed into the Canaries of today. Today’s Canaries are bred either for song or for type (appearance).

“Type” Canaries were primarily developed in Great Britain which went in for exhibiting their birds in national expositions. The London Fancy, the Norwich, the Yorkshire, the Lizard and the Manchester Coppy are a few of these “type” Canaries that were developed in Great Britain.

Meanwhile, in Germany Canaries were bred for song. If you have ever heard a German Roller Canary sing, it is a truly magnificent sound. Not only did the Germans keep the best singers for breeding stock, but they also trained the offspring how to sing by placing the young birds in a room with a great singer. In this way, the youngsters would try and imitate the song and voice of the great singer. This resulted in a breed of bird that probably has the greatest song of any bird in the world.

The pet Canary sold in pet stores today is a mixed breed with an unknown bloodline. Usually it has some Roller or American Singer genes mixed with a colourful “type” bloodline. The resulting bird is an average to a good singer with a colourful appearance. Frequently these birds come from a local “backyard” aviary. In this way, they don’t suffer from the stress of a long journey from the breeder to the seller. In addition, the birds are more acclimatized to the area where they are purchased.

Some of these birds have smooth feathered heads like that of the Roller Canary or the “traditional” Canary and some have the Gloster Corona or crested head which makes it look like Moe of the comedy troupe “The Three Stooges.”

While Canary clubs and competitions still exist in various parts of the world, they are not as popular as they were seventy to two hundred years ago when nearly every city had one or more clubs and yearly competitions. In spite of this, the Canary is still a popular pet. It is relatively inexpensive to purchase, quite easy to care for and, if you pick a good singer, it will give you hours of daily song.

One note of caution, though; as mentioned above, Canaries cannot stand polluted air. If you are painting inside your home, make sure you move your Canary into a room as far from the painting as possible. Also, if you are cleaning your oven make sure your Canary is moved to an area of the house that has no fumes. My mom and dad lost “Rusty,” their Canary, a year ago when they used ground up corn cobs as litter in the bottom of the cage. This type of litter, like kitty litter, has too much dust for Canaries.

If you want a pretty bird that will sing its heart out for you then you cannot find a better pet than a male Canary. The females are nice, but they cannot sing, as their voice consists mostly of cheeps and chirps. There is one note of caution to keep in mind. Canaries are very vain birds and if you put a mirror in their cage, they will sit and look at themselves for hours. The males usually will not sing if a mirror is placed in their cage and there have been numerous incidents of Canaries starving to death because they wouldn’t leave the bird in the mirror alone long enough to find the food in their cage.

So, if you want an attractive bird that sings, is easy to keep, and is relatively inexpensive, then get yourself a male Canary and put it in a cage with no mirror. Make sure your vain virtuoso has a bird bath as Canaries love to bathe. Place the cage in an area where there are no drafts and where at least part of the cage is shaded from the sun. Then sit back and let your new pet serenade you. Mom and dad's current Canary, “Jasper” starts singing just after sunup and he sings on and off until nearly midnight. When he hits high “E” it can make your ears hurt, but he sure can sing.

Until next time,

Teia

Tips, Techniques and Equipment for Brushing Your Dog

Just back from the groomer.

It is vital that your dog is brushed regularly for several reasons:

1. To avoid discomfort – matted hair is uncomfortable and leads to “hot spots” - areas where air cannot get to the skin and thus skin irritation and infection frequently set in.

2. To help eliminate skin disorders (see above).

3. To prevent an infestation of parasites. If parasites get onto your dog, you will usually see evidence of them when brushing the dog. The earlier you detect the parasites the quicker you can eliminate them.

4. To stop smells from developing. Debris, dirt, bits of food and matted hair, all of which smell, are removed during a thorough brushing.

5. To avoid extra charges at the Veterinarian and the Groomer. Many veterinarians and groomers charge extra when working on dogs with dirty matted hair. Mom and dad's older daughter took her two Cocker Spaniels to a groomer for a haircut and when she went to pay the bill she was shocked to find that the cost was $300 per dog because the groomer had to remove some matted hair from each dog. Needless to say, she no longer uses that groomer. However, most groomers have a $25 to $50 surcharge for dealing with dogs that have matted hair.

6. To remove loose hair, reducing the amount floating around the house.

To ensure that your dog's coat is in tip-top condition and to maintain a healthy pet, it is essential that the ears, eyes, coat, skin and anal area of the dog are checked regularly.

The first steps to brushing the dog:

1. Ensure you have a steady and non-slip work top or table. A rubber bath mat placed on a firm table will do. Do not use a towel as this will slip and slide. Having a firm surface that the dog feels comfortable on will prevent accidents and it will alleviate some of the stress of a thorough brushing.

2. Make sure that the dog knows that this is the place where misbehaving is not allowed. Start if possible as a puppy with regular short sessions. The more comfortable the dog feels on the brushing (grooming) table, the less problems you will have.

3. Make this an enjoyable and pleasurable experience (for both of you) but not a game.

4. The dog must learn through repetition, correction and praise. Do not smack the dog, use voice control.

5.Always reward the dog after brushing, either by treat or physical attention.

6. Take the dog outside to relieve itself before you begin the brushing session and again after you have completed the brushing.

The recommended frequency of brushing your dog's coat varies according to coat texture and length. Seek the advice of an experienced breeder or groomer. As a guide, every dog should be brushed at least once a week, although there are many breeds that need brushing three times a week! Unfortunately, some long haired dogs need to be brushed daily.

Does and Don'ts when brushing ALL types of coats:

1.Do not bathe the dog before thoroughly brushing out, as this tightens any knots present, also shampoo will be difficult to rinse out. Always remember that to prevent dry skin and to keep the natural oils in the dog's hair, restrict the number of baths you give your dog. My groomer recommends a bath only before getting my hair cut unless I get in the mud and get real dirty, then an extra bath can be given. Also remember that dogs require dog shampoo and conditioner as it has the proper PH for dog hair.

2.Do start brushing from the back and work toward the front as this is less sensitive for the skin.

3.Do be systematic, so that you do not miss any areas.

4.Do always hold limbs at a natural angle, no matter how awkward a position the knot or mat may be in.

5.Do remember that with most breeds there is the undercoat to brush too, not just the surface of the coat.

6.Do be firm, but do not smack your dog. Praise once corrected and obeyed.

Techniques of Brushing:

With long-haired dogs, or dense and curly non-shedding haired dogs, be aware that by brushing just on the surface of the coat you will not prevent matting. There is hair all the way down to the skin that needs attention.

Begin at the bottom of the back leg and, using your non brushing hand, lift the hair up and slicker brush underneath, bit by bit, gradually brushing hair down from where you are holding it.

Remember that there are four sides to a leg, front, back, outside and inside. Having worked your way up the leg, start on the belly and use the same method on the body. Always check with a comb, after thoroughly brushing, to check for hidden knots or undetected matted hair.

Take care when brushing near the eyes. The pins of the brush can scratch the eyes and cause permanent damage, sometimes loss of sight. The hock and the belly are also sensitive areas when brushing. Special attention should be given to the zones that tend to mat - underarms, inside legs, behind ears, feathering on thick coated dogs and the ear hair of floppy eared, long-haired dogs.

Basic Tools for Grooming:

Smooth-haired dogs will require a rubber brush to brush against the lie of the coat to loosen hairs. A bristle brush to remove dead skin and surface dirt and also stimulate circulation. A chamois cloth should be used to polish the coat for added sheen. Be gentle, you are not polishing your car!

Short coated dogs will require a slicker brush and a bristle brush. Also use a slicker brush and a bristle brush on long silky coats, which will additionally require a comb to test for remaining knots and matted areas.

Curly, non-shedding coats will require a pin brush and comb.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. My mom and dad brush me and give me emergency baths, but I get my hair cut and my regular bath from a professional groomer. You may want to consider this arrangement too, especially if you have reasonably priced professional groomers in your area. Giving a dog a nice looking hair cut requires a lot of practice. A good quality dog clipper is quite expensive. The clipper blades need to be professionally sharpened on a regular basis and will probably have to be replaced a couple of times during your dog's lifetime.