CAT HEALTH PROBLEMS

When my dad was growing up in a rural area of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada, cats were hardy animals that seldom suffered any illnesses. They usually passed on from old age, being struck by a motor vehicle on the Island Highway or being shot by an annoyed neighbour. However, over the last forty or so years, with the advent of commercial cat food and “selective” breeding, cat diseases are becoming fairly common. The only one that he can recall, from his childhood, is the first one on my list.

1. WORMS.

All breeds of cats are very susceptible to worms. Tapeworms, roundworms, and hookworms are the most common worms found in cats. Often, kittens are born with worms, or get them shortly after birth. Therefore, if your cat has recently had kittens, or if you have recently obtained a kitten, it is suggested that you consult a veterinarian (vet) about worming your kitten(s). If your cat is lethargic, has trouble gaining weight, or has white specks in its stool, have it checked for worms by a vet. Worms can be eliminated by medication, but if left untreated they can prove to be fatal to your cat.

2. HAIRBALLS.

Although not a disease, hair balls cause health problems in many cats, particularly in cats with long hair. Since most cats spend a considerable amount of time each day grooming themselves, usually by licking their fur or licking their paws and then rubbing the damp paw on their fur, they normally swallow hair in the process. As a result, sometimes the long hair forms into a ball and blocks the cat's intestines, instead of passing through the cat with its stool. If your cat shows signs of straining when attempting to have a bowel movement, particularly if it is also coughing and gagging a lot, take it to your vet as it probably has a hairball. With proper treatment most hairballs can be eliminated. Untreated, hairballs can lead to serious health problems and even death.

The easiest way to eliminate the possibility of hairballs is to brush your cat two to three times a week. This will remove most of the loose hair that could end up in your cat's stomach. Apparently, there is now cat food that is supposed to prevent hairballs from forming. Before considering the use of this food, you should consult your vet. Ingredients ingested to prevent the formation of hairballs could prove to be more harmful than helpful.

3, URINARY TRACT INFECTIONS.

Many cats suffer from urinary tract infections. Interestingly, urinary tract infections are more prevalent in male cats that haven't been neutered, although it also occurs in female cats, but with less frequency. Symptoms to watch out for are:

a. The cat stops using the litter box and starts urinating in other places.

b. The cat appears to have problems urinating and when it goes there is blood in the urine.

c. The cat's urine smells very strong.

I'm a dog and as a puppy and a young adult, I suffered from urinary tract infections and also from kidney stones. My vet determined that my problems were caused by my diet. I was put on a more acidic diet and my problems went away. So, be sure to take you cat to the vet if you suspect it has a urinary tract infection. Your vet can provide medication to cure the infection and recommend ways to prevent infections from reoccurring.

4. FELINE LEUKAEMIA

This disease is actually misnamed. It is not the cancerous blood disease that humans get, but instead it is a highly contagious virus based disease. It is usually fatal., but if you get your cat vaccinated against this disease and continue getting all required booster shots, it should not be a concern. Death from the disease is not immediate, but once contracted the disease will greatly shorten your cat's lifespan. Any unvaccinated cat exposed to the Feline Leukaemia virus will catch the disease. So, be sure to discuss this disease with your vet and arrange for a vaccination.

5. FELINE ASTHMA.

Approximately one percent of the world wide cat population will catch this allergy related disease, which is incurable. However, with proper veterinarian treatment, you cat could live a nearly normal life. Symptoms to watch out for are wheezing when breathing, coughing and laboured breathing. Consult your vet immediately if your cat exhibits these symptoms.

6. FELINE SPONGIFORM ENCEPHALOPATHY (FSE)

This disease is believed to be caused by eating the meat of a cow with BSE or, as it is more commonly called, “Mad Cow Disease.” Since pet food is primarily made for animals that have died, there is a small chance of your cat getting this disease from its food. However, after the last commercial pet food debacle, there are much more stringent rules in place regarding pet food ingredients used in pet food manufactured in North America. Be very careful of pet foods from other locations as their standards may not be as stringent. FSE does not currently have a treatment available, so a painful death is a certainty unless you have your pet euthanized as soon as it is diagnosed with this disease.

7. FELINE DIABETES

One in 400 cats will be affected by feline diabetes, which usually occurs as a Type 2 insulin dependent version of the disease. Symptoms include sudden weight loss, excessive drinking and urination, lethargy and an appetite that is either non existent or completely ravenous with the cat eating 3 to 4 times its usual volume of food. If detected early enough, treatment could result in complete remission. Those cats that do not go into remission can live a fairly normal life with long lasting insulin shots and a low carbohydrate diet. If your cat exhibits any of the symptoms of this disease, get him or her to a vet as soon as possible.

Take your cat for regular visits to your veterinarian. Get all recommended vaccinations and consider making your cat into an indoor cat and you will have a pet that will live a long and happy life with you.

Until next time,

Teia

Caring For Your Diabetic Cat

If your cat has just been diagnosed with diabetes, you might be afraid of what the future holds for your beloved pet. The good news is that cats can live long, healthy lives after being diagnosed with diabetes. The trick is that you, as a pet owner, must be dedicated to caring for your cat. Diabetes is not a death sentence for pets. Following is information to help you understand what you need to do to help your diabetic cat.

Regular Medical Care: After your cat has been diagnosed with diabetes, it is imperative that you visit your veterinarian on a regular basis. Your cat will need regular examinations to check the blood sugar levels and to make sure that he or she is receiving the right amount of insulin. When your cat goes in for a check up, the vet will ask that you do not feed your cat for twelve hours prior to the check up. While your cat is at the check up, your veterinarian will draw blood and check blood sugar levels. People that have diabetes are able to check their blood sugar at home. Check with your veterinarian to see whether home testing for your cat is possible if you buy a glucose monitoring system. Your vet may or may not allow you to do this as it does have some risks involved. If you do not do the test properly, then the results could be inaccurate. Depending on your cat, it may be difficult to do it yourself. Regardless of whether you do home blood glucose tests or not, your veterinarian will probably ask that you bring your cat in every three months for this type of check up.

Getting your Cat Insulin: When your cat has diabetes, it is your responsibility to make sure that your cat receives the proper dose of insulin twice a day. The amount of insulin that your cat will need will vary according to your cat's individual condition. Most cats receive between three and five units of insulin two times per day. It is important that you establish a routine for your cat. Your cat needs to receive insulin every 12 hours. Most people that have diabetic cats give their cat an insulin shot at the same time every morning and at the same time every evening.

It is not difficult to learn to give your cat insulin injections. Your veterinarian will walk you through the process and then you can repeat this at home. Usually your veterinarian will recommend that you give your cat injections between the shoulder blades in the scruff of the neck. With patience and practice, your cat will barely feel the injections. In fact, most diabetic cats know when it is time to get their injection and they may actually remind you by meowing.

Stocking the Right Supplies: It is important that you have the right supplies on hand to help treat your diabetic cat. You will need a vial of insulin as prescribed by your veterinarian, syringes and alcohol swabs. It is always a good idea to order your insulin when you are about halfway empty. It may take a few days for your veterinarian to get your insulin in. Your veterinarian might also recommend getting your diabetic cat on vitamin supplements and starting him or her on a special prescription diet such as Science Diet W/D. You must be able to watch your cat immediately after he or she receives an injection. It is also a good idea to have phone numbers for your veterinarian and one or two 24-hour emergency vet clinics available to you at all times just in case your cat needs help.

Many people who own diabetic cats worry about the costs that this condition incurs. It certainly does cost money to take care of a diabetic cat. A vial of insulin will cost you approximately $85 and will last you about two months. A box of 100 Syringes will cost about $30 and will last you 50 days, as you should use a new syringe for each injection. Prescription food will cost you about $40 for a 20 pound bag. However, it is important to remember that your cat is a part of your family. Most pet owners do not hesitate spending this kind of money on their pets.

Patience and Love: Above of all, when you have a diabetic cat you need a lot of patience and a lot of love. It is not always easy to care for a sick or ailing cat. However, with the right care, you can expect your diabetic cat to have many more years of happy life.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. The above tips also apply to diabetic dogs. Because most dogs are larger than cats, the amount of insulin and food needed will be greater and therefore the cost will be higher.

Unusual Pets: Chinchillas

Chinchillas are small sized crepuscular rodents belonging to the Chinchillidae family. They are almost the size of a rabbit. They originated in the Andes Mountains of South America. There are two different species of Chinchilla, Chinchilla Lanigera and Chinchilla Brevicaudata. Although they look almost similar, the tail and ears of Chinchilla Brevicaudata are shorter, its shoulders and neck are broader and it is found in the wild. The Chinchilla Lanigera species can be kept as pets. Their standard colour is grey and they can also be found in ebony, beige and other colours.

Wild Chinchillas are an endangered species. Chinchillas can be kept as domestic pets, but are very shy animals and are not good with small children. Because of their fragile bone structure, they should be handled with care and that might be the reason why Chinchillas don’t like it when people hold them in their hands.

The life span of Chinchillas is about fifteen years, when kept in captivity, although some live for twenty or more years. Chinchillas are nocturnal animals and they are quite noisy. They make squeaks, barks and chirps. They make these noises to express their moods. They use a sweet chirping sound to attract another Chinchilla for mating. They bark loudly when they get aggressive or scared. Chinchillas are social animals and can be kept together. When keeping Chinchillas of the opposite sex, they should be neutered. A group of same sex Chinchillas will do well if they are introduced to each other when young. Older Chinchillas can be added to the group, but it has to be done very slowly or there is a chance of them fighting.

Chinchillas are very playful animals. If they cannot have a room of their own, then their cage should be very large and should contain an arrangement of shelves, which they will jump and play on. Toys like large wheels measuring more than eight inches in radius, hanging wooden toys, and paper towel cylinders can also be placed in the cage. Care should be taken that none of the objects they are given should be of mesh construction as there is a possibility of Chinchillas getting their feet or toes stuck in the mesh. When they are given wooden toys or wooden chew sticks the material shouldn’t be conifer wood because it contains resins which are poisonous to Chinchillas. Plastic should never be placed in their cage because their sharp teeth will quickly shred it and the plastic pieces or shavings could block their intestines if swallowed. The cage should be very airy and the bedding shouldn’t be cedar wood. Birch, apple tree, willow, and Manzanita are good options for wooden toys, chew sticks and bedding.

Temperatures should be maintained below seventy-seven degrees Fahrenheit, because Chinchillas don’t have sweat glands. When the temperatures get too high, they get overheated and get heat stroke. Since the animals are hyper active, they should be made to spend at least half an hour outside their cage to exercise, with supervision. They clean their fur many times a week by taking dust baths. A container filled with special Chinchilla dust, made from sand and fine pumice, should be kept in their cage for bathing purposes. Chinchillas shouldn’t be given wet baths because their fur has the ability to retain moisture and this could result in a fungal growth. If, in an emergency, it is necessary to give a chinchilla a wet bath, they should be dried very fast with the help of a blow dryer on a LOW setting. (Remember their susceptibility to heat strokes.)

Chinchillas shouldn’t be given a sweet or fatty diet, like nuts and fruits, as their digestive system is very delicate. Their main diet should be a hay-based pellet and loose hay. On very rare occasions, they can be given small pieces of papaya or raisins. If they are fed sugar or other sweet products, they have a tendency to develop either diabetes or diarrhoea, both of which could be fatal. Even fresh vegetables could block their digestive system which would be very dangerous.

The original cause of the extinction of some types of Chinchillas and the near decimation of others is that they were killed in huge numbers for their superb soft feeling fur. Although the nearly extinct wild species are no longer hunted for fur, the domestic species are especially bred for this purpose. There are many fur farms where Chinchillas are bred in large numbers. Some of these fur farms keep their Chinchillas in terrible conditions and do not humanely kill them. This has resulted in confrontations with the group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA).

Over that past few years, Chinchillas have become very popular as pets, so quite a few pet stores have one or more on hand. If you are interested in getting one, make sure that you do proper research and talk to knowledgeable pet store staff.

Until next time,

Teia

Inappropriate Urination by Cats

Inappropriate urination, or urinating in unacceptable places, can be one of the most frustrating feline behavioral problems that any cat owner may have to deal with. However, by understanding the reasons behind this behavior and by utilizing retraining techniques and/or medical therapy, most cases of inappropriate urination can be resolved.

There are two types of inappropriate urination: house soiling and urine spraying. Behavior associated with house soiling is similar to normal urination. The cat will rake the ground, squat, and then will release a normal puddle on a horizontal surface, usually on furnishings such as carpets, rugs or other soft materials. On the other hand, urine spraying is a territorial or sexual behavior that has nothing to do with the physiological need for urination. The spraying cat typically stands with its tail fully erect and squirts a small amount of urine against a vertical surface such as the wall or the front of a piece of furniture.

In all cases of inappropriate urination you should have the cat examined by your veterinarian as an underlying medical problem may be the cause of the urination problem. If this is the case, then the medical condition must be remedied before attempting other solutions. Cats with conditions leading to pain during urination will tend to avoid the litter box because they associate it with pain. The most commonly seen cause of painful urination is cystitis (inflammation of the bladder). For older cats suffering from arthritis, it can be painful to get into the litter box and to squat (for this particular situation a shallower litter box is recommended). Renal and endocrine disorders, like diabetes and hyperthyroidism, can lead to excessive water intake and increased urine formation, thus the cat may not be able to make it to the litter box in time.

In the vast majority of cases, inappropriate urination can be resolved if the primary cause can be found.

HOUSE SOILING

If no evidence of an underlying disease is found, then your cat may simply dislike something about the litter box itself. For example, it may take aversion to the location of the box. The litter box ideally should be placed in an easily accessible and quiet spot, a distance away from the feeding and playing area. It should also enable the cat to have a wide viewpoint so that it has the opportunity to see what's going on in the room (cats need to know that nothing is going to sneak up on them when they are in the vulnerable position of urinating).

Cats can often be put off by the texture or scent of the litter and most do not like a dirty and smelly litter box. You need to consider whether your cat's behavior started after a change in the brand of the litter. Experiment with different types of litter in order to check your cat's preference and take care not to overfill the box. It is also important to clean the box daily and wash it in a mild detergent at least once a week. You will need to rinse it well to ensure that all residual smells and remnants of detergent are removed. If you have more than one cat, make sure that each cat has its own litter box and it is a good idea to provide one extra box as a precaution against accidents or territorial disputes.

Regarding the type and size of the box, most cats prefer a large uncovered box that is easy to get into and out of.

Another important cause of house soiling may be related to anxiety or stress. Cats are creatures of habit and any disruption to the routine or change within the household can adversely affect them. Moving to a new house or remodeling or refurnishing your house, the arrival of a new child, competition between cats in a multi cat household and separation from the owner are just a few examples of changes that could lead your cat to start house soiling.

The treatment of choice for anxiety-related house soiling will usually consist of reducing and eliminating the stress where possible, and/or behavioral modification therapy. Evidence suggests that spraying the house with Feliway, a synthetic equivalent of feline facial pheromones, induces a feeling of well being and calmness in cats. This method has proved to be efficient in decreasing or eliminating inappropriate urination in 30% to 60% of cases.

Pharmacological therapy may have a number of potential side effects and thus should be reserved for severe cases that do not respond to behavior modification techniques or environmental strategies. Several drugs have been proven effective in the treatment of anxiety in cats. Clomicalm (clomipramine) is commonly used for separation anxiety in single cat households and BuSpar (buspirone) tends to be more effective in multi cat households.

URINE SPRAYING

If your cat is busy with urine marking or spraying, instead of finding puddles on the floor, you may see some remnants of urine on walls, doors, furniture or other objects. However, most noticeable will be the offending smell of your cat's 'perfume'.

You may find yourself asking why is it doing this? Leaving tiny but smelly messages is a means of communicating with other cats. Your cat is simply saying 'this is my territory' or 'hey, I'd like to offer my sexual services' or 'this item is mine'. Any cat can start to communicate this way, although tomcats are the biggest offenders. Queens, especially when in heat, are more likely to spray than spayed females and the chance of spraying in multi cat households is proportionally higher than in a single cat household, irrespective of gender. In households where there are 10 or more cats, there will be at least one cat and probably more that will start spraying.

Since urine marking is largely hormonally induced, neutering will eliminate this behavior in 80% to 95% of cases. However, don't expect instant results, as it may take up to two months before you start seeing any improvement. If your cat continues spraying after this period, then there may be another cause for the need to mark. For example, there may be a 'bully' cat in your neighborhood or other cats may be coming into your home through the cat flap. A new person or stranger in your house can also make your cat feel unsafe and insecure so it may feel the need to 'reinforce' its 'territory'. In multi cat households, competition and territorial disputes between resident cats are a common cause of spraying.

SOLUTIONS

If you haven't done so already get your cat neutered as soon as possible. Kittens can be neutered at any time from six months onwards. Many towns and cities have programs to assist owners who cannot afford the cost of spaying or neutering their cat.

Clean urine spots thoroughly. You can use white vinegar diluted with water (1:1) or commercially available enzymatic cleaners and odor neutralizers which are available in most pet stores and some grocery stores.

Provide each cat with their own litter box plus provide at least one extra for emergencies. Keep litter boxes clean! If they get overly full or smelly, your cats will not use them.

Try to identify the reason why your cat sprays. If for example a new person has moved into the house, have him or her feed your cat to establish a bond between them.

Play with your cat in areas where it tends to spray. This will cause it consider that spot as a fun place, so it may stop marking that area.

If your cat sprays in only one room prevent access to that room. If spraying occurs in one or two specific areas and it is not possible to keep the cat out of these areas, put a litter box or feeding bowls there. Most cats will not urinate near their food.

If there is conflict between your cats, you may need to isolate them, or at least the one which is spraying.

Spray Feliway in all areas where your cat marks after you have thoroughly cleaned the area.

Do not use household cleaning products containing ammonia for cleaning soiled patches - it could stimulate the marking behavior as urine also contains ammonia.

Do not punish the cat by dragging it to its litter box or sticking its nose in excrement and never hit it or kick it! In fact, doing this can make things much worse. Your cat will then associate punishment with you and may become timid and distrustful of you. You will make it feel unsafe in the house and this will consequently lead to even more spraying. If you catch your cat doing the deed, you can try to deter it by making a harsh noise or spraying water from a water pistol or plant mister, but in most cases this will not deter the cat from spraying in the future.

In conclusion, you should always keep in mind the fact that the act of inappropriate urination by your cat does not mean that it wants to upset you. There is always an underlying reason for its behavior that can be related to either physiological or psychological disturbances, or to a normal and natural behavior. If you are unable to resolve the problem, do not hesitate to seek advice from your veterinarian. Usually, your vet will examine urine samples for the presence of blood, sugar, crystals or signs of infection. Possibly, your vet will take some blood samples if there is any indication of renal or hormonal problems, or diabetes. If your cat is in good health, your vet will be able to discuss the most appropriate behavior modification therapy and prescribe any medication if needed.

Until next time,

Teia