Showing posts with label veterinarian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label veterinarian. Show all posts

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Unusual Pets: Hedgehogs


Pet Hedgehogs are usually hybrids caused by the mating between the White-bellied Hedgehog, the Four-toed Hedgehog and the North African Hedgehog. The resultant small Hedgehog is usually referred to as the African Pygmy Hedgehog. These little mammals are friendly and curious and have a lifespan of 4 to 7 years, although individual animals may live for shorter or longer periods.

Pet Hedgehogs are quite small, about 5 to 8 inches (12.5 – 20 cm) in length with an average weight of ½ to 1 ¼ pounds (.227 - .568 Kg). However, some can be as small as 6 to 7 ounces (.170 - .198 Kg) in weight and others could be as heavy as 1 ¾ to 2 pounds (.796 -.908 Kg).

Domestic Hedgehogs are prone to obesity caused by either poor diets or lack of exercise. This frequently leads to fatty liver disease or cardiovascular disease. Pet Hedgehogs also suffer from cancer, particularly squamous cell carcinoma but, by and large, they are usually quite disease resistant.

When buying a pet Hedgehog, pick it up. Does it unroll after a few seconds? If it doesn't, it's too timid and you should consider a different one. Does it click, jump or hiss? Hissing is OK, but if it clicks, it is trying to threaten you and you should pick one with a better temperament.

Its eyes should be nice, round, beady, wide open and bright, with no sign of discharge. Its nose should be clean with no sign of running. Its ears should be short (unless it is a Long-eared Hedgehog), clean and with no sign of discharge or crustiness. Note that some young Hedgehogs may have ears that have teeth marks or chunks bitten out of their ears. This is caused by siblings fighting and is OK as long as the bites are healed.

Make sure that the Hedgehog has all of its quills and that there are no bare spots, mites, fleas or crustiness on the body.

Check the pen in which the Hedgehog is being kept. There should be no sign of green droppings or diarrhoea.

The body of the Hedgehog should be plump, but not fat and its walk should be a cross between a walk and a shuffle. There should be no sign of a wobble or any difficulty staying upright.

Make sure that there is no rattle when it breathes. Do not confuse chirping, cheeping or purring, normal noises for this animal, with the rattle of a Hedgehog with breathing problems.

Ensure that the Hedgehog you are considering is at least six weeks old before you bring it home.

The Cage.

The home for your new pet should be placed in a comfortable, warm, well lit area free from drafts and direct sunlight. It should be a minimum of 16 by 24 inches in size. An enclosed cage or aquarium should never be used as it could result in your Hedgehog becoming overly warm, suffering heat stroke and dying. The temperature for your new pet should be between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If cooler, your Hedgehog could go into hibernation, and if warmer, as mentioned it will usually suffer a fatal heat stroke.

When you first bring your pet home, leave it undisturbed in its cage for the first day. For the rest of the first week, you can pick it up for a few minutes a couple of times a day. After that you can handle it frequently as it should be familiar enough with you that it will not become frightened. During its first month with you, your new pet will spend quite a bit of time sleeping. However, as it gets older it will become more active and interesting.

You should let your pet Hedgehog out of its cage for a few hours each day so it can get exercise and to prevent boredom. Once your Hedgehog bonds with you, it will follow you around like a dog. It can also be trained to use a litter box like a cat. Non-clumping litter is preferred, and make sure the litter box is cleaned daily.

Bedding.

Your pet's bedding should be dust free. It can consist of aspen or pine wood shavings (not sawdust), but should never be cedar shavings. Immature females and adults can also use dust free crushed corn cobs. NEVER use crushed corn cobs for immature male Hedgehogs. Shaving or corncob bedding should be 2 to 3 inches deep. You can also use several layers of inexpensive fleece material to line the cage and act as bedding. Replace bedding when it begins to smell. If using fleece material, it can be washed, dried and then returned to the cage.

Food.

Basic diet of high quality dry cat food is recommended. This can be supplemented 2 or 3 times a week with raw or cooked vegetables, meal worms, crickets, pinkies (newborn baby mice), cooked meat and fresh fruit. Only leave the supplemental food in the cage for 15 minutes and then remove it. The dry cat food can be left in the cage 24/7. Note that commercial Hedgehog food is now becoming available. This may be used, but most Hedgehog owners that I contacted felt that high quality cat food was a better alternative.

Food Bowl.

The food bowl should be 3 to 6 inches in diameter and a maximum of 3 inches tall. Heavy ceramic is recommended as it will prevent your pet from tipping it over and using it as a toy.

Water Bottle.

Use a water bottle for your pet Hedgehog (one designed for rodents or rabbits would be excellent). Never use an open dish for water for your Hedgehog. If you do, your pet will fill it with bedding material and then there won't be any water left for it to drink. It will then suffer dehydration which is usually fatal.

Hiding Place.

Your pet will enjoy having a hiding place. You can use an old plastic pitcher, a 4 inch by 12 inch piece of PVC pipe (make sure your pet can get in and out easily), or a small cardboard box like a shoe box, with a 4 inch diameter hole cut in one end. If you use a cardboard box, it should be replaced with a clean one every 2 to 3 weeks.

Toys.

Toys can be added to your pet's cage. Some people use empty toilet paper rolls, which are favoured by pet Hedgehogs, however, if you choose to use one, make sure that you slice it open from end to end on one side so that your pet cannot get its head stuck inside the roll. A Hedgehog wheel is highly recommended. This wheel will assist in keeping your pet fit and healthy.


Sexing Hedgehogs.

Female – genitals close to the anus.
Males – penis sheath ½ inch or more toward the nose from the anus.

Both males and females make great pets. However, you should never put a male and a female in the same cage unless you intend breeding them. Breeding should only take place after the female is more than 5 months of age as pregnancy earlier could result in problems and even death of the female.

After the female becomes pregnant, the male should be removed from the cage as the male will very likely kill the newborn babies. The gestation period is between 35 and 58 days, depending on the breed of your pet Hedgehog. The litter will consist of 5 or 6 babies on average.

Pet Hedgehogs are diurnal animals. This means that they are awake part of the day and part of the night. They are friendly, curious animals that require no immunization. They are usually odour free if regular cleaning of the cage is done. They are peaceful, humorous, solitary animals. They are also very intelligent and have good memories.

Hedgehogs have excellent sight and smell abilities. Their pointed little noses are constantly twitching as they sample the scents in the air around them.

When frightened, they roll into a ball protecting their soft white tummy. Their back is covered in short quills for protection. Unlike the quills of porcupines, these quills do not have barbs and they usually remain attached to the hedgehog.

As noted above, obesity is a problem, so if your pet develops “ham-hocks” for legs or has double chins, eliminate the supplemental food, and if your pet does not have a Hedgehog wheel, get one. If there is no sign of weight loss after one month, change to a dry cat food with at least 20 percent fat content. The extra fat content should cause your pet to eat less and thus lose weight. If it still doesn't lose weight, consult a veterinarian.

So, if you want a smart, friendly, cute, little pet that is fun, quiet, gentle, fairly odour free, that doesn't climb your curtains, chew your furniture, require vaccinations or daily walks, then you may want to consider a Hedgehog as your next pet.

However, be aware that some states in the USA and some Canadian municipalities have laws banning the keeping of Hedgehogs as pets, so before purchasing one, please check with local authorities.

Until next time,

Teia
PS. Hedgehogs enjoy baths. We put our pet hedgehog in about two (2) to (3) three inches of barely warm water in our bathtub every Monday, Wednesday and Friday for ten (10) minutes. Make sure the tub is clean before putting the hedgehog in and make sure that NO chemical cleaners have been used. If you are not sure, rinse the tub out thoroughly before putting the hedgehog in the tub. NOTE! the hedgehog may have a bowel movement in the tub. After the bath take your hedgehog back to its cage and thoroughly clean the tub with hot water.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Cat Breeds: American Bobtail Cats


This breed is relatively new in that it began in the 1960's in the United States of America. Apparently, a couple found a male bobtail kitten, which they named “Yodie,” on an Indian Reservation. When the kitten reached maturity, it was bred to a seal-point Siamese female cat. All of the offspring had bobtails and looked like baby Bobcats (a wild feline described in my Sunday, June 28, 2009 entry titled, “Unusual Pets: Bobcats.)

As a result, a rumour started that “Yodie” was actually an offspring of a mating between a Bobcat and a domestic cat. However, scientists quickly countered this rumour with scientific evidence that showed that any mating between a Bobcat and a domestic cat would result in male offspring that were sterile. Since “Yodie” obviously wasn't sterile, this rumour regarding his ancestry quickly died.

However, if you look back in history, you will find numerous mentions of domestic cats that had been abandoned in the United States wilderness mating with other wild “domestic” cats and producing “mutant” offspring with bobtails. “Yodie” was probably the product of such a mating. Since the mutated gene that produces this type of tail is a dominant gene, most, if not all progeny, would have bobtails. Since “Yodie's” offspring had bobtails, this is probably the most logical origin for him.

“Yodie's” offspring were bred to Birmans, Himalayans, Siamese and Ragdolls (Cat breeds, the latter two of which I have previously covered. Friday May 22, 2009 titled “Cat Breeds: The Ragdoll Cat” and Tuesday May 26, 2009 titled “Cat Breeds: Siamese Cats.) Since the gene pool was relatively small, inbreeding lead to medical problems with progeny of the original bloodline. As a result, in the 1980's, breeders chose random bred domestic cats and mated them with American Bobtails. This created a much wider gene pool and eliminated most medical problems and also almost all traces of the original blood line.

The resultant American Bobtail cat is an affectionate, very intelligent, gentle, loving, kind, athletic, well muscled, medium to large cat. The males weigh 15 to 20 pounds (6 – 8 Kg), with the females weighing slightly less. Their average tail length is one to four inches long (2.5 – 10 cm), although some cats have shorter or longer than average tails.

Interestingly, those with shorter tails, or no tails at all, tend to have an increased risk of hip dysplasia, spinal-bifida, bowel and bladder issues.

The American Bobtail appears powerful with its strong, broad, wedge-shaped head, broad, deep chest, distinctive brow, large almond-shaped eyes, strong back legs, which are slightly longer than its front legs, large feet, sometimes with tufted toes, and tufted ears; in short, regardless of colour, it appears in stature, to be quite a bit like a Bobcat.

All cat eye and fur colours are available in this slow maturing cat, which takes two to three years to reach adulthood. The hair comes in two varieties, medium, semi-dense short-hair and medium-length long-hair. Both hair types are water resistant. The long-hair version appears more scruffy looking.

The short-haired varieties do not require much grooming. They usually only need to be combed during the shedding season. Long-haired American Bobtails should be combed at least two (2) or three (3) times a week to prevent tangles and matting of the hair. If started at a young age, most cats enjoy their grooming sessions.

The American Bobtail has a dog-like personality. It enjoys playing fetch and hide and seek and is very devoted to its owners. It can easily adapt to a busy or quiet environment, so will fit into most households. It is leash trainable, so can be taken for a walk. It enjoys climbing and discovering things, so do not let it outside unsupervised, or it will be at the top of the nearest tree.

Because these cats are very trainable, they can be taught to do simple tricks. They are excellent with children because they do not mind being lugged around like a sack of potatoes.

Unlike most cats, the American Bobtail gets along well with most dogs and other pets. They are fairly quiet cats, but will chirp, click and trill when they are happy.

The American Bobtail interacts with humans of all ages, so it is sometimes used as a therapeutic animal for distressed people.

These cats sound like the ideal pet, but one word of caution though. These cats are fascinated by shiny things so you must ensure that jewelry, coins, and small ornaments are always kept locked up, because if they spot something shiny, they will pick it up with their mouth and carry it away. Unfortunately, they sometimes swallow these things which means a quick trip to the veterinarian must occur to ensure that whatever was swallowed does not injure or kill the cat.

American Bobtail kittens usually sell for $400 to $900 (US) depending on their bloodline and what they will be used for. Show animals are, of course, more expensive than companion animals. Breeding rules are almost always part of the sale contract. Be sure to do a thorough check of the breeder before you decide to deal with them.

If you would like to own a bold, people oriented cat that is highly intelligent, somewhat demanding and whose cleverness and dexterity have earned it a reputation of being an escape artist, then an American Bobtail may be the cat for you.

Until next time,

Teia

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Dog Breeds: Bichon Frise


The name, in French, means curly white lap dog. Other names for this hypoallergenic dog are Bichon a poil frise and Bichon Tenerife.

The Bichon Frise is a descendent of the Barbet or Water Spaniel and was originally called a Barbichon. This name was later shortened to Bichon. There are four categories of Bichon: the Bichon Tenerife, the Bichon Havanese, the Bichon Malteise and the Bichon Bolognaise. All originated in the Mediterranean area.

These happy, lively little dogs, which are friendly and outgoing, love being the centre of attention and becoming a member of their human family.

The dark, alert eyes are full of expression. The nose is black, soft and shiny. The white, soft, corkscrew hair, over a silky undercoat, needs daily grooming to remain in tip-top condition. A small amount of the coat around the ears, snout, paws and parts of the body (not more than 10 percent of the body in total area) may have a buff, apricot or cream hue.

Height is 9 to 12 inches (23-30 cm) and weight 7 to 20 pounds (3-10 Kg). Puppy's noses are pink, but gradually turn black as they grow older. They also have cream or pink markings under their white coat, but these markings should be dark by the time the dog reaches 18 months of age. The legs and head are in proportion to the size of the body. The tail and ears are not docked or cropped. These dogs are of medium to high intelligence.

Because they require a lot of brushing, clipping and bathing, dead hair and dander is constantly being removed. As a result, these dogs make good pets for people who usually have allergic reactions to other dogs. It must be remembered, however, that individual dogs may have more or less allergens than the breed average.

The Bichon Frise is sensitive, gentle mannered, affectionate and playful. It usually gets along well with children and other pets.

The average lifespan of the Bichon is 12 to 13 years, although individual dogs may live for a longer or shorter period. These dogs are prone to cancer, autoimmune haemolytic anaemia (AIHA), immune-mediated thrombocytopenia (ITP) and liver shunts.

My Mom and Dad had a Bichon Frise named “Brandy” when they lived in Regina. She was a sweet little puppy, happy and active. However, as she got a little older, she began to limp and often walked on three legs, refusing to put any weight on her left hind leg. A trip to the veterinarian revealed that she had hip dysplasia. As a courtesy to the breeder, Mom phoned her and let her know that one of the parents was passing a hip dysplasia problem on to some, or all, of the pups. The breeder said, “You bought her, so it's your problem now,” and slammed down the phone. Obviously this breeder was not a good one and was only in it to make money, not to ensure that her stock was of good quality.

“Brandy” was operated on and had the ball removed from the top of her left rear femur. It changed her whole personality. Even after she was completely healed and had undergone rehabilitation so she could use her leg again, she became quiet, sad, slow moving and sullen. When she was about 8 ½ years old, she showed signs of chewing problems, so Mom and Dad took her to the Veterinarian. She examined “Brandy” and advised that she had cancer of the mouth and jaw. When Mom asked how long she had, the veterinarian replied, “she will let you know.” Several months later, she stopped eating. A few days after that, she came up to Mom and laid her head in Mom's lap and whined and closed her eyes. It was time! Mom and Dad took her to the veterinarian where she was put to sleep.

Friends of the family have a Bichon, “Charlie,” who is very outgoing and friendly and much loved by his “Mom and Dad.” So, if you would like to have a friendly white dog that loves attention, you may want to consider a Bichon Frise as your next dog. Just remember, they need a lot of maintenance to keep them looking good.

Until next time,

Teia

Monday, June 14, 2010

Grooming and General Care of Your Dog


Medical Update: I went to the vet last Wednesday and had a thorough examination. My groin has completely healed and the lump beside my nose has disappeared. The area of my chin that was covered with weeping lumps has healed up, and the swelling has nearly all gone away. The vet told dad that he could reduce my “Prednisone” treatment from one half tablet in the morning and one half tablet at night to one half tablet in the morning. Dad must continue to monitor my condition and let the vet know if anything shows up again. Now, on the following Monday, everything is still OK, so hopefully my problems have been solved. Unless something happens again, no further medical reports will be given. Thanks to all who sent get well messages. Now, on with today's post which deals with grooming and general care of your faithful companion.

The amount of grooming your dog will need depends on the breed of the dog and the length and texture of her coat. Generally, dogs with long hair will require more grooming than short haired dogs. Some long haired breeds will require a bath every week or so to keep their coat from matting, with daily brushing in between.

Before commencing to brush your dog, you should examine her for cuts, sores, mats in the area where the legs meet the body and in the hair on her ears. Also check her anus for crusted stool as this could cause a sore to develop. And, check inside her ears to ensure that there is no wax buildup.

Dogs with short hair only need to be bathed occasionally, but they still need weekly brushing to remove dead hair and surface grunge.

Non shedding dogs will require regular baths and hair cuts to keep them looking nice and to prevent matting of their coat. You should purchase a breed specific book so that you can get advice and tips for your dog from specialists.

If you plan to enter your dog into dog shows, then you should consult with a professional groomer to learn what needs to be done to prepare your dog. And, even if your dog is just a family pet, you should take her to a professional groomer at least once to learn how to properly groom her and what tools you will need.

If you just try to do it all yourself, without expert advice, you could end up spending a lot of unnecessary money on items that either don't work, break or become unserviceable quickly, or just don't do what you want them to do. For example, if you plan on cutting your dogs hair yourself, make sure you get good quality dog clippers. Hair clippers for humans will not stand up to regular clipping of your dog's hair. Some types of hair require special types of brushes. Dog nail clippers must be used to cut your dog's nails. Human nail clippers either will not cut the nails, or they will splinter the nail when cutting.

When dad was younger he cut the hair of the family dogs, and both mom and dad groomed and bathed them. Now that they are older, they take us to a professional groomer for baths and haircuts. They brush us and clean our eyes, ears and bums between visits to the groomer, and give us emergency baths when we get really grubby. Our groomer, as well as giving us a bath and haircut, also trims our nails and thoroughly cleans our ears and removes excess hair from the inside of our ears so wax doesn't build up.

For further information on grooming view:

“Drying the Dog” posted Wednesday August 26, 2009.
“Tips, Techniques and Equipment for Brushing Your Dog” posted Wednesday July 1, 2009.
“Improve Your Dog's Health with Proper Grooming” posted Sunday April 26, 2009.
“Bathing Your Dog” posted Wednesday March 25, 2009.

Until next time,

Teia

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Dog Obesity and Overfeeding


Medical Update – The vet phoned dad and said that there was no indication of deep infection and to start the steroid prescription. Since then my groin has healed and the lumps on my chin and beside my nose have started to shrink in size. Unfortunately I'm still losing weight. Dad will be taking me back to see the vet tomorrow, so hopefully he can come up with a solution to the weight loss. (This is the exact opposite of today's blog topic, which as the title says is obesity.)

An alarmingly high proportion of dogs, these days, suffer from obesity. The primary cause of this is due to over eating and lack of exercise.

Most dog owners, now-a-days, have very busy lives with many work related and social responsibilities. As a result, their dogs don't get taken for as many walks as the should. Many days their food is either left down all day, like mine, or care is not taken in measuring out the proportions recommended for the size or breed of their dog.

Some breeds are more prone to becoming obese than others. Cocker Spaniels and Labrador Retrievers are two breeds which are very susceptible to obesity. On the other hand, Terrier breeds are the least susceptible breeds to becoming obese.

If your dog shows a tendency to having a weight problem, ensure that she only eats what you give her. Do not allow other family members or well meaning neighbours to give her treats or special tidbits. Please have your dog examined by a veterinarian (vet) before considering putting her on a diet as there may be an underlying medical problem that is responsible for your pet's weight gain. As mentioned last time, in multiple dog families, you have to be vigilant that food guarding or food gorging is not taking place. This is a jealousy or psychological type problem that needs to be discussed with your vet so that you can find a safe and satisfactory solution.

The one downside to having your female dog spayed, or your male dog castrated, is that hormonal changes take place which alter their weight regulating mechanism. This means that the same amount of food after the operation may result in weight gain. If this occurs, discuss it with your vet to arrive at a sensible solution. It may be necessary to reduce the number of calories in the food provided. This may involve switching to calorie reduced food, or adding more bulk to your dog's current food to make it seem more substantial.

One method that has proved fairly successful with a number of dogs is providing them with uncooked carrots as treats instead of dog biscuits. Uncooked carrots can also be chopped up and added to your dog's regular food to provide extra bulk when the amount of food is reduced to lessen the calories consumed. As well as reducing calorie intake, these vegetables are good for aiding the teeth cleaning process. Some dogs are satisfied with the carrots just being washed and the tops and tips being removed, while others prefer to have their carrots with the tops, tips and skin removed.

Since cold winter weather increases a dog's appetite, adding bulk without increasing calories is necessary at this time of year. Where I live in northern Canada, winter is long and cold – temperatures in the minus 30 to minus 50 degree Centigrade* range, often accompanied by a wind, makes outdoor exercise impractical much of the time. As a result, reduction of calories is essential or weight gain at this time of year is inevitable.

Until next time,

Teia

* Centigrade or Celsius temperatures are scales where water freezes at 0 degrees and boils at 100 degrees – in the Fahrenheit scale, water freezes at 32 degrees and boils at 212 degrees. At minus 40 degrees, all three scales are in synchronization.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Blog Entries


This year has not been kind to us, and as a result, entries have been very sporadic to say the least. Mom and dad went to Regina, Saskatchewan in early January. Shortly after returning home, dad came down with the worst cold he has ever had. No matter what he did, he just could not get rid of it. He felt absolutely terrible, and it lasted for over a month. He just got better as I got sick the first time. We aren't sure what my trouble was, but it seemed to be a doggy version of the flu.

I just got over that when it was time for my yearly check-up and my vaccinations. Fortunately that went well and things started returning to normal. Then about a month ago, I went to the groomer to get my hair cut. She found a big red area in my left groin and a bunch of infected hair follicles in my chin and on the right side of my nose. By the next morning the area in my groin had swollen to the size of half of a large egg. It was bright red with dark red stripe in the centre. Since this was a Sunday, the veterinarian was closed. Overnight, the swollen area ruptured and I had a hole about the size of a dime in my groin which oozed a mixture of blood, puss and plasma. Dad immediately contacted the veterinarian and made arrangements for me to be examined.

The veterinarian determined that I had an infection in my groin and also in the hair follicles on my chin. He prescribed a regimen of antibiotics. Dad took me home and started me on the antibiotics, but at the end of a week, nothing had improved. Back we went to the veterinarian. He checked me out and arranged for me to go to his hospital for a biopsy of the two areas. This was done the next morning. I came home with stitches in my chin and my groin and a head cone to prevent me from licking my groin or scrubbing my face on the carpet. When this was put on me, it made me feel so bad that I just laid like a blob on the floor. Dad felt sorry for me and took the cone off. I tried not to lick my groin, but at night when there was no one looking, I'd lick it. By the weekend, it looked quite good, but Saturday night it got itchy and I licked it a lot. Unfortunately, I licked a stitch out and opened up a big area again. In the morning dad saw the mess and phoned the veterinarian and asked if he could put a band-aid over the opening. The veterinarian advised that he could, but to bring me in to see him on Wednesday.

When I went to the veterinarian on Wednesday, the hole was nearly closed up, so the vet prescribed a more powerful antibiotic and told dad to bring me back in a week for a follow up. He also took a blood sample to see if there was an underlying problem that was preventing my immune system from responding to the antibiotics. The results of the biopsies showed no sign of malignancies, but also failed to determine what caused the infections.

That night my groin got itchy and sore, so I worked my tongue under the band-aid and licked the wound until it opened up again and drained more blood and plasma mixed with puss. In the morning, dad was not happy, so with help from his daughter, he removed the old band-aid and applied three new ones. Two across the incision and then one along the incision over top of the two that are across it. I don't think I'll be able to lick the incision any more. Hopefully, when we go to the vet on Wednesday, the incision will be healed enough that the remaining stitches can be removed. I hope so, as all the visits to the vet have cost dad over one thousand dollars.

I'm feeling a little better now and have started to eat again, which is good, because I have gone from 16 pounds 7 ounces to 14 pounds 9 ounces. The vet is still running more tests to try and determine what caused the infections and how best to treat them. I will try and keep you updated on how I'm doing and what sort of treatment is decided upon.

Until next time,

Teia


PS from Dad.

It is very distressing when your beloved pet is not well, and very hard to concentrate on daily activities when you cannot do something to ease their pain and discomfort. Hopefully, this episode will soon have a happy ending and Teia and I can get back to providing more regular postings on this blog.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Pedigree Cats


Most people buy pedigree kittens from cat breeders who usually breed a specific breed of cats. For example, if you wish to obtain a pedigree Siamese kitten, you should find a breeder who specializes in that breed. Usually these breeders are people who professionally breed cats to sell and/or show. They are very proud and knowledgeable about the breed they specialize in.

Once you have determined that you want a cat that has a pedigree, you need to find someone who breeds that type of cat. Ideally, you should get a breeder's name from someone who has already purchased a kitten from them. In this way, you can see the type of cat the breeder sells and determine if it meets your requirements. If you do not know anyone with the type of cat you wish to buy, then you can look in the pet section of your local newspaper to see if anyone local is selling this type of cat. You can also check with your local veterinarian as they usually have personal knowledge of all local cat and dog breeders.

Many cat magazines have listings of breeders near the back of the magazine. Or, you can call national organizations for listings of registered breeders. Another source is the Internet. For example a query of “siamese kittens for sale” performed on May 8, 2010, resulted in 163,000 responses from all over the world, so you should probably add some additional qualifications to your query to narrow down the number of responses, such as “toronto siamese kittens for sale” which resulted in 8010 responses which is still a large number, but a little more manageable.

Many professional breeders will usually have a range of ages of kittens for sale, from six weeks to six months old. Kittens under three months of age are the most popular, and you can expect to pay several hundred dollars for a quality pedigree kitten. Cat rescue groups and your local Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) could also have kittens, but usually their pedigree is questionable, unless they were seized from a registered breeder.

You want to make sure that the breeder you choose is registered with a national cat registry and has been breeding cats for at least five years. (This ensures that their business and the lineage of their kittens is solid.) They should be able to give you a certificate of pedigree with the kitten to prove it's a purebred animal.

Find out if the breeder offers a written guarantee about the kitten's health. Also make sure they will give you a refund or exchange if the kitten develops a disease or genetic problem within the first six months to a year. Reputable breeders are more than happy to meet these conditions. If they are reluctant, or refuse, you do not want to do business with them - find another breeder.

Some pet stores sell pedigree kittens, although most are likely to only carry non-pedigree kittens. Most pet store kittens are young, usually under 12 weeks of age. They are often kept together in a pen or crate, which is great for display purposes, but not so great if one of the kittens becomes ill, because then all of the kittens would be exposed to that illness. Pet store kittens are often placed in the main area of the store. This is so people can get close to the kittens and even hold them if they want. Although this is a bit risky, it does socialize the kittens at an early age, which is a desirable thing.

If you are interested in a pet store kitten, try to find out how the store got the animals - from a breeder, pet wholesaler, or maybe just a neighbourhood family looking to place a litter from their cat. The source of the kittens matters, because it should be reflected in the price the store is charging for the kittens. Prices at pet stores can range from about fifty dollars to several hundred dollars for a pedigree kitten. (Again the actual pedigree of the animal is questionable because many pet stores do not provide a certificate of pedigree with the kitten.)

Whatever method you use to locate a pedigree kitten, if you do thorough research, you will find a great kitten which will give you many years of faithful companionship.

Until next time,

Teia

Monday, February 22, 2010

CURING YOUR CAT'S BAD BREATH


Bad breath in a pet is usually associated with dogs, however, if you happen to own a cat with bad breath, you will know that it smells awful. Usually, bad breath is caused by bacteria in the mouth which breaks down protein in your cat's food releasing sulphur compounds into the air. Since sulphur has a foul odour, when your cat opens its mouth this sulphur smell is released. The bacteria responsible for the release of the sulphur smell is the kind which is associated with a buildup of tartar on your cat's teeth. Tartar, which also forms on human teeth, is yellow or greenish yellow in colour and it is made up of minerals in the cat's saliva which adhere to plaque on the surface of the cat's teeth. Once the tartar builds up on your cat's teeth, it becomes very hard and it is difficult to remove. Severe cases will require professional removal, which is quite expensive. The best way to eliminate it is to catch it in its early stage when use of pet toothpaste with anti tartar enzymes can, if used daily, virtually prevent the formation of dental plaque which will, in turn, eliminate the formation of tartar because it will not have the plaque to anchor it to the teeth. There are now cat foods that are designed to reduce the buildup of tartar. Some cat treats apparently have enzymes that will dissolve dental plaque eliminating the formation of tartar. Before considering these foods and treats, consult with your veterinarian to ascertain that these enzymes do not cause other medical problems for your beloved pet.

As mentioned above, if you catch it early enough, that is before the tartar becomes as hard as cement, you may be able to clean the tartar off your cat’s teeth at home. There are several toothpastes available for pets, in several different flavors, which are designed to prevent the formation of plaque and thus prevent tartar buildup. You can remove it with a basic toothbrush, but you will probably find that an electric toothbrush is much better, because the motion of these brushes is better at removing plaque. If you start when your cat is young and easier to handle, you will have more success. Brushing your cat's teeth will not be easy, but it will prevent the buildup of plaque and thus prevent the bad breath associated with the formation of tartar. Note! You must ensure that you use PET toothpaste. Human toothpaste contains chemicals that must be spit out. Since neither cats or dogs can spit like a human, they have to swallow the toothpaste. If you have ever accidentally swallowed human toothpaste, you know that it makes you quite ill. Doing so on a daily basis as your pet would have to do could lead to many very serious maladies.

Some of the bacteria that leads to plaque and tartar buildup can be found in your cat’s diet. Because of this, make sure you feed him premium food and that you brush his teeth or rinse his mouth out after he eats. This way, you’ll get the bacteria out of his mouth before it has time to build up on his teeth.

Another reason for consulting your veterinarian when you detect a bad odour on your cat's breath is that sometimes, in rare cases, the cause of the bad breath could be caused by either liver or kidney disease. So, if you notice bad breath coming from your cat, you should take him or her to your vet. Even though it may be something to do with tartar, it’s better to be safe than sorry. Your veterinarian can pinpoint the problem, let you know what the cause is and how you should go about fixing it.

Until next time,

Teia

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Six Tips for Finding a Good Pet Sitter



A good pet sitter can help make your life easier, especially if you are away from home frequently. Pet sitters can not only take care of your beloved pets while you're on vacation or a business trip, but they can make your house look lived in by turning lights on or off, opening and closing the drapes and bringing in the mail and newspaper. Even if you're not on a trip, a pet sitter can come at noon to walk an over-active dog, administer medications, or give potty breaks.

The first person to consider as a sitter for your pets is a family member that lives nearby. They will be familiar with your pets and your pets will be familiar with them. If you do not have a family member living within reasonable driving distance, or a trusted neighbour who will look after your pets, then you will have to consider hiring a professional pet sitter.

If you've never employed a pet sitter before, or you've had trouble locating one, here are some tips that will help you.

1. Word of mouth is always a great way to find a pet sitter. Ask around. If your neighbour, friend, or co-worker has a pet, check to see if they use a pet sitter. If they do and they are satisfied with the sitter, then give the sitter a call and arrange for an interview.

2. Go to the professionals. Call your veterinarian or groomer and ask them for recommendations. They may know which pet sitters are good through conversations with clients, or they may have personal experience with pet sitters themselves.

3. Real estate agents are a wealth of information about anything going on in the community. If they don't have suggestions for you, they can at least point you in the right direction for finding the information.

4. Go online and search for a pet sitter in your area. Many pet sitters have websites these days and this can be a good way to locate them. Look at their websites carefully and make sure they service your area. They're likely to turn you down if you live outside their territory due to high gas prices. In addition, read over any testimonials they may have from clients and when you call them, ask for references.

5. Sometimes, you'll find that the good pet sitters are already booked. Ask them to recommend other pet sitters that they would trust with their own pets. Most of them will know other pet sitters and can steer you clear of any that don't have stellar reputations.

6. A number of stores have bulletin boards, particularly grocery stores. Check bulletin boards for advertisements posted by pet sitters and record their names and phone numbers so you can set up appointments to interview them. Note! DO NOT post a request for a pet sitter to contact you. You are alerting the criminal element that you will be away from your home, which could lead to someone stealing all your valuables and possibly harming your pet(s) or letting them out of the house to fend for themselves.

A good pet sitter can be hard to find if you don't know where to look. Using these tips should help you locate one, which will make both you and your pets happy. It will be a big relief to know that you have one less thing to worry about when you're planning your next trip.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. Please refer to “Ten Steps to Finding the Perfect Sitter for Your Pet” posted March 24, 2009. This post will give you further suggestions and also tell you about the problem mom and dad had with the sitter they hired. It may help you avoid a similar disaster.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Tips for Buying a Golden Retriever Puppy


Anyone that has ever been around a Golden Retriever knows that they are beautiful, obedient, and make great family pets and hunting dogs. Golden’s, as they are frequently referred to, also make great guide dogs for the blind, narcotic detection dogs and even tracking dogs for finding missing people. Although there are many other dog breeds out there, Golden Retrievers remain one of the most versatile and most astonishing breeds that you can get.

Before you rush out to buy a Golden Retriever puppy, you should first take the time to learn a bit more about the breed. You can attend dog shows, meet with various owners of Golden Retrievers and even go to your local kennel club. Most people who own Golden Retrievers are extremely proud of them and will be more than happy to share their enthusiasm with you.

When you buy your Golden Retriever puppy, it’s worth considering the possibility of buying it from a backyard breeder. Backyard breeders usually know and care a lot about the breed. Usually backyard breeders aren’t just in it for the money - they actually care about their dogs and want you to get the best Golden possible.

You can also visit the Golden Retriever Club of America or their local member clubs, as they can supply you with a list of breeders in your area. If these breeders don’t have any Golden’s for sale themselves, they will be more than willing to help you find what you’re looking for. If you do not have a club in your area, then check with your local veterinarian. Since veterinarians usually treat most dogs in the area, they are familiar with any local breeders. By dealing with someone from a Golden Retriever Club or veterinarian recommendation, you can get a Golden from a very reliable source.

Whatever you do, you should never rush into buying a Golden Retriever. You should always take your time, because when you buy your puppy, you want a healthy puppy that will grow up to be a fine testament to the breed. By taking your time and making a careful decision, you can save yourself a lot of time and money later on down the road.

Golden puppies that are of poor quality, are normally produced by breeders who just want to have a litter or breeders who are just looking for the profits and care very little about giving thoughts to looks, quality, or temperament. If you buy a puppy from either of these types of breeders, you’ll more than likely end up with a puppy that has poor health, poor temperament and even flaws in relation to the breed standards.

When you get your puppy, you should always think long term. If you buy from a quality breeder, you shouldn’t have anything to worry about. Always remember that you aren’t just buying a Golden Retriever puppy - you are buying a companion and a friend for life.

Until next time,

Teia

Friday, December 18, 2009

How to Prepare a Raw Diet for Your Pet(s)



In spite of mom and dad’s concerns about raw food diets, these diets seem to be more popular than ever. With that in mind, I chose this article for today’s post.

Before there was such a thing as commercial pet foods, dogs ate table scraps and the leftovers, including bones from on the farm butchering; cats usually lived on the rodents they caught around the house or outbuildings, occasionally supplemented by a bowl of milk or a squirt of milk from a cow’s teat during milking in the barn.

The acquisition of pets by city dwellers and their need for a more convenient means of feeding their pets gave rise to the pet food industry we have today. However, after the pet food disaster of a couple of years ago, more and more people have come to realize the dangers and inadequacies of commercial pet foods.

The Most Highly Touted Benefits of a Raw Diet.

Numerous articles and books have been written about raw pet food diets. In fact, they have become so popular that now commercially prepared raw diets can be obtained in fresh, frozen or dehydrated condition. The most commonly mentioned benefits of raw food diets include increased health and vigour, a much more glossy coat, cleaner teeth and longer, healthier lives.

Cautions that Should be Followed.

Discuss any change in diet with your veterinarian. Ill or aging animals may need to be eased into a raw food diet. You may want to start with lightly cooked food, particularly if their digestion or immune system is compromised in any way. For the safety of your dog, bones should initially be ground or be large enough so the dog will chew off any meat and cartilage but not be able to break and ingest bone fragments.

The "One Hundred Percent Complete" Myth.

Most commercial diets on the market are usually advertised as "100% complete and balanced." This was the case back in the 1970’s when pet food diets did not contain taurine and pets were dying from heart problems because no one realized taurine was an essential nutrient. Now, quietly, taurine is also being added to previously "complete" pet foods. What nutrients will be “discovered” as being essential in the next few years?

As an example in human terms, the cereal Total (R) is advertised as 100% complete -- would you feed your child nothing else for her entire life? I don’t think so! It is nearly impossible for a manufactured food to be 100% complete because we simply don't know everything there is to know about nutrition, either human nutrition or pet nutrition. And, since we do not know enough, how can we manufacture 100 % complete food products?

Diets for Dogs.

Dogs, while technically carnivores, are opportunistic scavengers. They will grab anything that smells good to them and run away to gorge themselves on it. No matter how well trained, most dogs will grab any food item that they can reach on a counter, table or window ledge and some have been known to grab meat off a BBQ. If allowed to run free, they also spend time searching through human garbage for tasty tidbits. A dog's diet can consist of a wide variety of foods; however, meat and bones should still be the primary ingredients. If vegetables are included in your dog’s diet, they should first be blanched and frozen to break down cell walls and release nutrients for the dog to absorb. Carrots are very hard for dogs to digest, so they should be pureed. Since some dogs like fruit, this can be provided to them, but avoid grapes, raisins, nuts and onions, which can be toxic, especially to small dogs. Feed garlic only in moderation. Grains are not required and in fact can be harmful to some dogs. However, if your dog needs to gain some weight, then rolled oats, brown rice, or barley will help. Dogs will also like an OCCASIONAL piece of whole grain bread as a treat, but be warned that this will quickly cause your dog to gain weight and overweight dogs tend to develop diabetes or heart problems more easily.

Diets for Cats.

Cats are completely carnivorous animals, which means that they MUST eat a meat-based diet. Almost all commercial cat diets are completely inappropriate with their grain and vegetable fillers. Obesity, diabetes and irritable bowel disease are some of the most common problems in cats that are continuously fed a dry food diet. You should choose a variety of raw meats and organs to provide a good diet. Most cats like their food ground, however some enjoy gnawing on raw chicken wings and necks.

Keeping the Balance in Your Pet’s Diet.

You do not eat the same thing every day and the same should be true for your pet. They need variety in their diet to obtain the best health benefits. When you first start feeding a raw diet, most likely you will start off with one meat source (most people use chicken because it is readily available and inexpensive). If you can get a frozen mix, like Oma's Pride, your job will be much easier, as it is made up of ground meat, bones, vegetables and organs (for dogs), or a variety of ground meats (with or without bones) and organs for cats. When planning meals for your pet(s), you must remember to balance the ingredients over time so the pet(s) get the full benefits of a raw diet. Meats from different animals, even different cuts of meat from the same animal, will have different nutrient content. By choosing a wide variety of meats and including organs as well, you can achieve balance over time. Add yogurt or cottage cheese (if your pet does not have an allergy to dairy products) and raw or cooked eggs at least once a week.

When feeding raw diets, puppies don't need special diets, however, they will require as much as 10% of their weight in food to start off with, gradually decreasing to the adult maintenance level of 3% by 1-2 years of age.

Working dogs and dogs involved in sporting activities should get 3-5% of their body weight in daily food. Judge the success of your feeding program by body condition which should show a definite indentation in the stomach area. The dog should be active, alert and have a good coat if the diet is balanced and adequate. Good meats for dogs include chicken, turkey, lamb, beef (for most dogs, although some dogs have shown allergic reactions to beef), also duck (for weight gain) and rabbit. Most of these are available from larger grocery stores, butcher shops or raw pet food distributors.

For cats, rabbit, chicken, and small amounts of fish make great choices that are "close" to their natural diet. Do not overdo the supply of salmon or herring as they contain quite a lot of oil and will tend to add weight to your cat if given too frequently. Try to pick less oily fish and keep the salmon and herring for special treats.

Feeding a raw diet to pets is not complicated although it is more time consuming than opening a can or dumping dry food into a bowl. Just follow these general guidelines, check with your veterinarian regularly and read as much about it as you can, and you'll be a pro in no time.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. I like my meat cooked. To me, raw meat tastes awful, so I won’t eat it unless I am VERY hungry. I LOVE table scraps though and I like raw fruit, particularly pieces of apple that have had the skin removed and pieces of cantaloupe and watermelon.

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Rabbit Care and Tips


See the April 12, 2009 post titled “Unusual Pets - Rabbits” and the July 22, 2009 post titled “Building Housing for Pet Rabbits” for further information on these great pets.

Pets complete a home for both single people and families. Children often desire pets more than adults do, as they think animals are cute and fun to have. Adults, of course, know the work required. Like any pet, rabbits need care. They need to go to the veterinarian, be fed and watered daily and have their home cleaned. When you decide to purchase a rabbit, you need to know exactly what is required.

Before I get into your rabbit’s needs, you will want to know the types of rabbits that are available. The most common types of rabbits sold as pets are cottontail, dwarf and lop eared rabbits. The dwarf rabbit is small and should be kept indoors. Cottontails are not as sensitive to the weather and can be housed outside in moderate climates. Lop eared rabbits have long floppy ears and like cottontails grow to a good size. The type of rabbit you wish to have for a pet will determine the care needed.

Like cats and dogs, rabbits require shots from the veterinarian to keep them in good health. People carry diseases that can harm animals if they do not wash their hands before and after they handle their pet. Rabbits can be susceptible to worms and other dietary parasites so it is important to take your rabbit for its veterinarian visit when needed. Speak with a veterinarian about your rabbit’s care and any questions you may have before you complete your purchase.

Rabbits eat pellets, hay and some vegetables. Most rabbits like to munch on carrots or lettuce as a treat. You want to feed your rabbit every day to ensure it is receiving the proper amount of food. Unlike cats that eat when they are hungry, a rabbit can over eat and become over weight. Some commercial feed for rabbits contain nuts; however, these foods are typically not good for your rabbit as they are too high in fibre. You can feed your rabbit fruit as a treat, but you should not do so daily as the sugar in fruit could cause health problems.

Housing for a rabbit can be in your home or if you wish to keep them outside, a wooden cage will work. Most outside cages are designed to let the waste fall through so your rabbit(s) are not sitting on it or laying on it. The cage should be built large enough to house an adult rabbit with bedding spread out to make a nice little home. They should be given plenty of water and have it changed daily. Having a fenced backyard for your pet rabbit is a great idea. They can roam, under supervision, for a little exercise, which all pets need. Do not leave your rabbit unattended, even in a fenced back yard. In the time it takes you to go to the washroom and return to the back yard, your rabbit can dig a hole under the fence and be gone. Tame rabbits have no defence against dogs, large hawks or eagles. They are also easy pray for coyotes, feral cats, racoons and foxes.

You should clean your rabbit cage at least once a week or more often, depending on how messy or smelly it becomes. Your rabbit needs a clean environment to eliminate the possibilities of disease. An important factor in having a rabbit that lives a long life is its environment.

Rabbits with their fuzzy cottontails or floppy ears are some of the cutest pets you can own. They are a medium maintenance pet. With proper feeding and environmental care, you can have your rabbit for 5 to 10 years. Your children will enjoy showing off their pet rabbit to all their friends and beg you to take her to show and tell. I do not think that this is a good idea. Rabbits do not handle stress well. Being in a room full of children who want to touch and hold her is quite stressful and could cause your pet to become ill.

There are a couple of things you have to watch for that are seldom mentioned in rabbit books or by your vet. When female rabbits go into season (become ready for breeding), they will pull hair from their chest to make a nest. Frequently they swallow some of this hair, which like a cat, will form a hairball in their stomach. If your female rabbit begins to look lethargic, get her to a vet immediately. She could have a hairball, which if untreated, could be fatal.

If you have male rabbits, when they go into season, similar to a male dog, they will begin to spray their cage and any nearby furniture. Therefore, at this time, it is advisable to restrict them to their cage until their season is over. During this time, you will have to wash their cage more frequently as their urine is quite smelly. From experience, mom and dad recommend that you get a female rabbit if you decide to get a rabbit for a pet.

I feel that pets are needed to complete a family. As mentioned in one of the previous posts listed above, rabbits are great pets and can provide you with countless hours of entertainment and affection.

Until next time,

Teia

Monday, November 23, 2009

Indoors or Outdoors: What is best for Your Pet?



Before you take on the responsibility of owning a cat or dog, you need to take the time to consider the living arrangements for your new pet. Many people adopt pets with the idea that they will be raising an outdoor animal. How many people in your neighbourhood keep their dogs or cat’s outdoors at all times? The fact of the matter is, outside is not a safe place for a cat or a dog, as I will explain in a moment. When you adopt a pet, you need to make sure that you are ready to allow your pet into your home.

It is true that both cats and dogs will love being outside, it is their natural environment. Cats delight in chasing birds, climbing trees and hiding in shrubs. Dogs adore barking at the neighbours, chasing squirrels and digging. However, there are many dangers to keeping your pet outside at all times. Dogs tend to get more outside time than cats do. Owners take their dogs out for walks and in some cases allow their dogs unsupervised access to the backyard from time to time. Cats are usually either indoor pets or outdoor pets.

It is more common nowadays, for owners to keep their cats indoors as they begin to realize the dangers of allowing their cat to live outdoors at all times. I highly recommend that you keep your cats and dogs inside. For cats, you can help them practice their natural instincts inside by giving them plenty of places to run and play inside your home. Buy your cat a good scratching post with a high perch and install a window seat so they can gaze at the birds outdoors.

The number one danger to your pets when they go outside is other animals. You never know when your dog or cat will encounter a stray animal, or strange cat or dog from down the street. You know that your pet is properly vaccinated, but you do not know the health condition of other animals outside. In addition, if your dog or cat gets into a fight with another animal, your pet can be seriously injured or harmed. Unless you supervise your pet at all times when they are outside, you never know when your cat or dog will encounter a strange animal. Now-a-days, even quiet residential areas of large cities have coyotes, foxes, skunks, racoons, abandoned dogs and feral cats wandering the area after dark. Many of these animals carry parasites and diseases, which they can pass on to your pet. Coyotes usually work in packs and their favourite tactic is to send a lone coyote to bait your dog into chasing it. When your dog takes the challenge and chases the lone coyote, the rest of the pack come out of hiding and your dog, no matter how large, becomes a late lunch for these nighttime killers. Unless your cat can make it up a tree, she doesn’t stand a chance against these killers. If you have been watching the news over the last several months, you are probably aware that bears, wolves and other large predators are coming into suburban and city locations with increasing regularity. As their natural habitat and/or prey is decreased, they have no choice but to change their hunting areas to continue to exist. A dark city street, park or large backyard provides a perfect location to hide and spring out on unsuspecting pets and/or children.

In this time of bird flu, your cat should not be allowed to eat wild birds, particularly crows, starlings and others that either migrate long distances or mix with birds that migrate. I have not heard of any cases of a pet dying from eating an infected bird, but if your cat or dog did eat one and then crawled away to some secluded spot to die, no one would know anything about the cause of death because no city or town that I am aware of performs an autopsy on dead pets that are found within their limits. The only time that an autopsy is performed on a pet is when the owner insists and there is a possibility that the pet has been deliberately poisoned, or if the pet is suspected of having rabies. In most cities when a dead pet is found it is taken to the landfill and disposed of with no follow up of any kind. Usually the owner never even finds out the pet is dead. To the owner it just remains missing.

Other dangers of allowing your pet to live outside are cars and other people. A cat darting across the street late at night is a recipe for disaster. What if your dog gets loose from your yard and encounters a child? How will your dog react? You hope that your dog will be good and stay friendly. However, what happens if the child begins to taunt or tease your dog or poke a stick at him? If your dog bites or scratches another person, chances are, you will be responsible for your pet's actions. Many pet owners have found themselves in a serious situation when their dog or cat has acted aggressively when outdoors. Most times, you will face a court appearance and your pet will be destroyed.

When your cat or dog stays indoors, you can also help control fleas, ticks, and the exposure to heartworms. This is not to say that you should not treat an indoor pet for these problems. All dogs and cats, whether they spend most of their time indoors or outdoors, should be on a monthly heartworm preventative. This parasitic disease can be fatal to your pet and your pet can also pass these parasites onto you. It is important to remember that if your cat or dog lives outdoors, you will have many more problems when it comes to fleas and ticks. Fleas can jump from your pet to you and once they get into your home they are difficult to eradicate. Ticks frequently carry Lyme disease, which they can pass onto your pet. There is a lot of controversy about this disease, which is very debilitating. It is quite difficult to diagnose, and once infected with it, the pet or person suffering from the disease may never get rid of it, as treatment methods are not standardized and frequently not very successful.

As you can see, there are many reasons why you should keep your dog or cat indoors. Pets that are indoor pets live longer and healthier lives than pets that live outside. This includes all pets.

Once you make your pet an indoor animal, they will lose some of their outdoor survival instinct. As a result, you will need to protect them when you take them outside. Supervised walks or supervised trips to off leash parks are fine. You should also supervise them when they are in your own fenced in yard, as they will now depend on you to provide a home and protection for them. As mentioned above, you never know, particularly at night, what might be lurking nearby to attack your beloved pet.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. In the northern town in which I live and in the neighbouring city, wolves, bears, coyotes and cougars are frequent visitors and numerous outdoor pets become meals every year. Even the dog catcher had his dog attacked by a bear. Fortunately, the dog was able to get into a very well constructed dog house and avoid death, but he suffered some very nasty scratches and tooth marks that required veterinarian treatment. And of course, if you live in parts of Florida, you have to watch out for the thousands of Burmese Pythons which are devouring wildlife and pets at alarming rates.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

The Advantages of Having a Microchip Implanted in Your Pets


Every pet owner wants to keep his or her beloved cat or dog as safe as possible. You do everything you can to make sure your pet is well cared for and healthy. If you have an indoor pet, you may not think that keeping identification tags is important, but it is. What if your fuzzy feline accidentally slips out the door at night and you search to no avail? What do you do, especially if your dog or cat has no identification? Placing a collar, with an identification tag, on your pet is important, but collars sometimes become lost or are removed. When you consider the fact that many animal shelters only keep dogs and cats for seven days, you want to make sure that your pet is properly identified. That is where the microchip comes in handy. The microchip is the newest way to identify lost pets and helps ensure that your lost pooch or feline finds his or her way back home.

The technology of the microchip has become so popular that most animal clinics and animal shelters have the ability to scan a cat or dog for microchip identification. If you opt for the microchip, you should know that it is a relatively painless procedure for your pet. Your vet will insert a tiny microchip about the size of a grain of rice directly under your pet’s skin using a hypodermic needle. The microchip is usually placed in the back of the neck or in the ear. The microchip contains a special digital number that has been entered on a national microchip database. The database will contain your contact information, so when the number is checked, the person doing it will be able to contact you. When your pet is lost, a veterinarian or animal shelter worker can use a special scanner to retrieve the microchip number. It is that easy.

Pet owners love the idea of the microchip because it is permanent. You cannot remove the microchip and unlike a collar or tags, it cannot be lost or destroyed. This is one of the best features of using a pet microchip, especially for cats. If you place a collar on a cat, more than likely it will be a breakaway collar. If your cat climbs a tree, or is caught on something, the collar breaks off. If your cat does not have a microchip, it will be very difficult to identify your cat if it is found.

There are a few important things to remember about pet microchips. First, if your pet gets lost, you should never just sit back and wait for a call, even if your pet has a microchip. Not all veterinarians and shelters are equipped with this technology. You need to take the time to call around and place “lost pet” flyers around your neighbourhood. In addition, you need to make sure you take the time to update your contact information should you move. It does little to no good to have your pet implanted with the microchip if the information on the national database is incorrect. Your veterinarian can tell you how to update this information.

It is important to get your pet implanted with the microchip at a young age. Puppies can have the microchip inserted at age six weeks. Even small breeds of dogs can handle this procedure. Kittens can also undergo this procedure at six weeks. The insertion of the microchip is not painful and feels like a regular vaccination shot. You can have your pet implanted with the microchip at your veterinarian’s office and can expect to pay $30 or more for this service. However, this is a small price to pay for something that can be the difference between finding your lost pet and not finding her.

Until next time,

Teia

Thursday, November 19, 2009

How to Pet-Proof Your Holidays


The "end of the year" holidays can present some particular hazards to the health of your pet and consequently to your peace of mind. Here are some ideas that have worked for my mom, dad and us pets to make this time a happy one for all.

Make sure you check your veterinarian's holiday hours and emergency contacts and have the information easily accessible.

Think before you decorate with plants. Cats, dogs and birds will all nibble household plants and many, including mistletoe and some poinsettias, can make your pet very ill. Make sure your holiday greenery (and "red-ery") is out of your pet's reach.

The same is true if you have a Christmas tree. You should put only unbreakable decorations at the bottom of your tree, so there is no danger of your cat batting a glass ball and breaking it, or the pup chewing your grandmother's antique bubble lights. How about some kitty baubles or doggie toys on the lower branches instead?

Or, do what mom and dad did when they had both pets and little ones. They put the tree and gifts into a playpen. That may not stop Kitty, but at least the tree can't fall down as easily when he or she climbs it.

Another oft-forgotten item: if you have a live tree in water, wrap the base so your pets can't decide to take a drink of that water and keep the birds away from the tree as many modern live trees have been sprayed with chemicals that may be toxic to your little friends.

Be very, very careful about candles. Your cat or bird may be enticed by the flicker of the flame, and may singe his whiskers or worse. Place glass "hurricane lanterns" or other attractive covers over candles to protect your home and your pets.

Think ahead to New Years Eve and plan how to keep your pets from becoming frightened by the traditional firecrackers and other noisy merriment. Like me, some dogs may be severely traumatized by fireworks or other loud noises, so be sure to leave them inside if you go out to celebrate.

Pets, especially dogs and cats, may be stressed by the changes in household routine during the holidays, particularly if you are stressed yourself. Some cats and dogs respond to stress by becoming hyper or hysterical and some simply retreat. Plan to spend some special time with your pets to calm yourself and reassure them during this period and if your pet is especially upset with strangers visiting, prepare a "refuge" he or she can go to and escape the "maddening crowd."

To "wrap this up," have a "Meowry" Christmas, and a "Hoppy" New Year!

Until next time,

Teia

PS. This is being posted ahead of the start of the holiday season so that you can include the suggestions in your holiday plans. Birdhouse Publishing and your pet(s) thank you for keeping your pets in mind during this hectic time of year.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Getting Your Pet Through an Animal Rescue Group



Birdhouse Publishing and I advise that animal rescue organizations or groups offer you a great place to get your next family pet. These groups are all different, but they do have common goals. They work hard to locate a permanent loving home for unwanted, abused or misplaced pets. Many of these rescue groups rely on volunteers and donations to care for these pets while they are between homes.

When you begin looking for a rescue group to work with, you will find that most of these groups rely on their hard working volunteers and support from the local community to operate. You will also find a wide variety of animals available through these rescue groups. Some rescue groups are dedicated to the rescue of a specific type of animal, however, many of these groups handle all types of animals and you will find kittens, puppies, and even older pets available for adoption. You might be surprised to learn that some groups even offer exotic pets such as reptiles, pot bellied pigs, ferrets and even guinea pigs. Some groups specialize in rescuing racehorses and greyhounds who have been injured or who have reached the end of their racing days.

As you begin looking at pets available through rescue groups, keep in mind that many of these animals have had very hard lives. You may find a dog that was abused by its owner. You may find a female cat that has just given birth and her owner no longer wants her. Owners have relinquished many of the animals offered by rescue groups because they can no longer care for them. In addition, some of these groups take animals that live in kill shelters or as strays living on the streets. Some groups also offer spay and neuter release programs for feral cats.

Rescue groups do a good job of screening animals before adopting them out to new homes. They also screen potential pet owners. If you find a pet offered through a pet rescue group, you will be asked to sign a contract saying that you agree to care for the pet long term. You will also be asked several questions about your home, your children and other pets you may have. This is not to be nosey—it is simply to help match an owner with the right pet. If the animal suffers from a medical condition, such as diabetes, the new owners know this up front before adopting. Having the animal’s health history at the time of adoption helps the animal find a permanent home.

You can gain a lot of personal satisfaction by adopting your next pet through an animal rescue organization. You know you have done something to help and your new pet will show its appreciation. If you are interested in adopting through one of the many rescue organizations, it is easy to find one in your area. Your veterinarian can give you the contact information for organizations near you. Most of the time, these pets are kept in private homes (foster homes) until they are adopted. This gives the animal time to be socialized with other pets, or children and time to get used to living in a home. Sometimes, animal rescue groups will bring their animals that need homes to pet stores or other locations for interested people to see and meet these animals on certain weekends.

When you choose a pet in a rescue program, be prepared to go through an interview and application process. Adoption fees vary with each organization, but you can expect to pay $100-$200 or more for a rescued animal. These groups do not make a profit. These fees cover the cost of the animal while it was in the care of the organization. This adoption fee usually covers vaccinations, medical exams, spaying and neutering.

Getting your next pet through an animal rescue organization is a responsible way to get your next family member. You can also find many volunteer opportunities through these organizations.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. These groups provide an invaluable service to the communities they are located in. If you see the pictures of some of the animals they have rescued, it is heart breaking. It also makes you wonder if the human race really is civilized or if it is just a thin veneer covering a vicious nature.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Unusual Pets: Ferrets


Even though Ferrets have been kept as pets for over 2500 years, they are rare pets to own. Most people choose dogs, cats, birds, or fish to complete their family, however a select few turn to the Ferret for its social, playful, curious qualities. Ferrets love to play and explore not only with other Ferrets and their owners, but also on their own. For this reason, you need to know a few things on how to take care of a Ferret.

Pros of owning a Ferret

1. Ferrets are very affectionate pets and form deep bonds with both their owners and any other Ferrets in the home.

2. They are easy to train to use a litter box.

3. They are very smart animals and fun to be with.

Cons of owning a Ferret

1. Ferrets are not recommended for families with young children (see below about their biting habits) as they are easily injured if dropped or squeezed.

2. Your home will have to be Ferret-proofed (see below).

3. Ferrets will crawl into reclining furniture or any furniture that has an opening, which means that they could be killed if the reclining furniture is raised or lowered while the Ferret is inside.

4. Ferrets are prone to cancer and heart disease, so veterinarian bills could be expensive.

5. Ferrets are fairly short lived with the average lifespan being six to eight years although some will live as long as 10 years with proper care and nutrition.

6. Ferrets require several hours of “out of cage” exercise to remain healthy.

As pet lovers, you will want to Ferret proof your home before you introduce them as pets. They will crawl into walls, furniture and anywhere they can get their little bodies. It is much like childproofing a home for a baby. Extension cords must be eliminated and electrical cords to lamps, electronics, appliances, etc. must be unplugged before you let your Ferret(s) out of the cage for playtime.

Ferrets are frequently biters. The kits, baby Ferrets, tend to bite more that mature Ferrets. Biting is part of their behaviour as it makes up part of their play fighting. Younger Ferrets tend to bite more when they are teething and do not mean any harm. For this reason, you will want to handle your Ferret(s) as often as possible to help reduce this biting behaviour. Often those who do not take the time or have the patience to train their Ferret end up leaving the animal in its cage and thus it has a shorter lifespan. Please make sure you are up to the task of training a Ferret before brining one into your home. Trained properly, they can be as great a pet as cats or dogs. In fact, a lady who runs a Ferret rescue group in Atlantic Canada advises that Ferrets capture your soul, while dogs and cats only capture your heart. However, you must remember that they are ingenious at getting out of their cage, so make sure that the cage is properly secured before leaving home or you are liable to come home to an open cage and find that your Ferret has chewed through the drywall and made a nest between your wall studs.

Ferrets are carnivores so they require a high protein diet. Most owners feed their pet Ferret mice, rats, rabbit and other raw meats such as chicken, beef or veal. Some pet stores carry commercially made types of Ferret food that many owners choose over the live food. Carefully read the label to ensure that the food has the high protein needed. If nothing else is available, kitten food can be used if it is made with high protein (32% or more) and 16% fat. Do not use any commercial food that contains carbohydrates because Ferrets cannot digest them.

While play is an important part of your Ferret’s life so is sleep. Most Ferrets spend fourteen to eighteen hours a day sleeping and they particularly like to sleep in hammock style beds. Part of that sleeping is to rejuvenate them from the active play life they have. They love to explore and to play with toys. Many pet stores have toys for Ferrets, or you might have something around the house that your Ferret will find appealing.

The type of cage is important. Multi-level cages are preferred. Ferrets tend to be very smart so you will need a cage with a very small space between the bars. The cage should also provide plenty of air. You should also clean the cage once or twice a week, depending upon the number of Ferrets you have and how dirty the cage looks. Ferrets love to burrow, so some type of bedding is required. The pet store where you purchase your Ferret should be able to recommend the best type of bedding for your Ferret.

Ferrets are little balls of fur that love to play and interact with humans and each other. While there are some special concessions you need to make to have a Ferret, the results are worth it. Proper training as a kit will ensure that you have even more joy when they reach adulthood.

Until next time,

Teia

Friday, November 13, 2009

Dangerous Dog Treats: What to Know Before You Treat Your Pup


What pooch does not love getting a treat or two now and then. Most pet lovers also enjoy giving treats to their dog. If you’ve had your dog for a while, then you have a good idea of the type of treat your dog likes, but trying a new one is always a temptation. There are so many treats available these days and they come in all different shapes, sizes, colors and consistencies. For every great dog treat, there are those on the market that are not so good. These treats can harm your pet by lodging in your dog’s throat or intestines. This can cause choking or worse. If you love treating your canine friend, then you will want to be aware of those treats that can be potentially harmful. Even with treats that are not usually dangerous, you need to supervise your dog when she eats them.

Greenies: Most dogs really enjoy these treats. They are advertised as a treats that help clean your dog’s teeth. However, as a pet lover who does not want to see your pet in danger, you need to be aware that “greenies” can cause choking. This is because dogs eat these treats very quickly which causes large chunks to lodge in the throat. Young puppies should not eat this treat and dogs that are prone to gulping their food should also avoid them. There have been reports that if your dog does not digest chunks of these treats, they can lodge in your dog’s intestines or bowel, and sharp edges could tear or perforate these organs. If your dog eats these treats, be aware of potential vomiting, bloody stools, and difficulty breathing. If you notice any of these symptoms after your dog has eaten this treat, seek medical attention immediately.

Rawhide Chews: What dog does not love snacking on these chewy treats? Rawhides are good because they clean your dog’s teeth and keep your dog occupied. However, rawhides are dangerous, as well. As pet lovers, mom and dad have always provided rawhide chews for their dogs. Until they did some research, they did not realize that some rawhides that originate outside of the United States might actually be preserved with arsenic-based chemicals that will be ingested by your doggie when he or she chews. For this reason, make certain that any rawhide treat you purchase is processed in the United States where this preservative is forbidden. If you cannot tell where a treat originated do not buy it! In addition, you still need to watch your dog when he or she is munching on rawhides to help prevent choking. Any dog that gulps food has a chance of gulping in a large chunk of rawhide, which may lodge in the dog’s throat. This usually happens when the rawhide becomes partially soft and gooey. The gooey part slips down and the hard part jams in the dog’s throat. Make sure you buy rawhides that are the right size for your dog, too. A small dog needs the smaller sized rawhide treats. The other night, my “sister,” Gemma, had a rawhide lodge in her throat. Dad was nearby and he patted her on the back and dislodged the rawhide which Gemma then coughed up. If no one had been near at that time, Gemma may have choked to death.

Chocolate: Baker’s chocolate is a terrible thing to allow dogs to eat. Of course, sometimes dogs get into candy and cake without your knowledge. Chocolate is toxic to both dogs and cats, so as pet lovers, you need to be aware of your dog sneaking chocolate nibbles, especially around the holidays. Chocolate contains an ingredient called theobromine. This acts in a canine about the same way caffeine acts in a human. A little will make the doggie hyperactive, but a large dose may be fatal. If your dog has gotten into chocolate, you need to look for vomiting, shallow breathing, and irregular heartbeat. If your dog shows any of these symptoms after eating chocolate, take him to a veterinarian immediately.

Bones: It seems that it is the right of every dog to be able to crunch on a real bone from time to time. Dogs love bones of all types. However, some bones can be dangerous. Both chicken and turkey bones are especially dangerous because they are brittle. When your dog chews on them, they can easily splinter or cause choking. Some pork and beef bones can also cause the same problem. Dad’s parents had a Boston Terrier who choked to death on a steak bone that became lodged in her throat. They tried everything they could think of to dislodge the bone, but could not get it out and the dog died in their arms. NEVER give your dog cooked bones of any kind. The cooking makes them brittle resulting in splinters and sharp pieces, which could lodge in your dog’s throat. Some “raw food” advocates suggest that raw poultry bones are safe for your dog to eat, but mom and dad’s experience has shown that even raw poultry bones will splinter under some situations. As pet lovers who do not want to see any pet meet with a tragic end, mom and dad do not recommend feeding poultry bones to your dog. Veterinarians agree that one of the safest bones you can give your dog is a shinbone. If you must give your dog a bone, make sure you supervise your pooch and if he or she shows signs of bleeding, then you should call your vet immediately.

This is not to say that you cannot give your dog an occasional treat, all pet lovers enjoy giving their dog a treat, and it is one of the fun parts of owning a dog. And, of course, us dogs love them! You do need to watch your dog and make sure that your dog is safe when snacking. Always pay attention to what kind of treat you give your dog in case of a recall. Another trick to follow when thinking of trying a new teat is to read all of the writing on the packaging. If you notice misspelling or grammar mistakes, chances are that the product was made in a country that does not have good pet health and safety rules and therefore the treat should NOT be purchased for your pet.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. If you reside in Canada, where all packaging requires both French and English versions of the contents and manufacturers information, make sure that the French is correctly spelled and that it is grammatically correct as foreign manufacturers frequently make mistakes in the French version of the package information.

PPS. From Dad: Last weekend, I attended a Christmas Craft Sale in Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada. One of the tables featured a local lady selling hand made dog treats from human grade ingredients. I bought Teia and her “sisters” some beef, garlic and cheese flavoured dog bone shaped cookies. They eat them so fast I’m not sure if they chew them or just inhale them. While at the booth, the lady gave me a copy of the following poem, which I thought you might enjoy.

MY DOGS LIVE HERE

My dogs live here, they’re here to stay.
You don’t like pets, be on your way.
They share my home, my food, my space
This is their home, this is their space.

You will find dog hair on the floor,
They will alert you’re at the door.
They may request a little pat,
A simple “no” will settle that.

It gripes me when I hear you say
“Just how is it you live this way?
They smell, they shed, they’re in the way…”
WHO ASKED YOU? Is all I can say…

They love me more than anyone,
My voice is like the rising sun.
They merely have to hear me say
“C’mon girls, time to go and play.”

Then tails wag and faces grin,
They bounce and hop and make a din.
They never say “no time for you,”
They’re always there, to GO and DO.

And if I’m sad? They’re by my side
And if I’m mad? They circle wide
And if I laugh, they laugh with me
They understand, they always see.

So once again, I say to you
Come visit me, but know this too…

My dogs live here, they’re here to stay.
You don’t like pets, be on your way.
They share my home, my food, my space
This is their home, this is their place.