Things to Keep in Mind When You Want a Lizard as a Pet

Lizards are cold-blooded reptiles belonging to the Squamata order. They have four legs, visible ear openings and manoeuvrable eyelids. Their size can vary from a few centimetres to as long as three meters. The price of a lizard can vary from type to type, with small relatively common lizards selling for under $50 and large more exotic ones selling for thousands of dollars. If you want to get the proper equipment and housing for your pet lizard, it can become quite expensive. The cost can be cut down a bit by doing some research on the Internet before heading to the local pet store.

Before thinking about buying a lizard, the most important factor to be considered is the full-grown size of the lizard as some of the species, as indicated above, can grow up to ten feet long. Usually the larger lizards need extra care and lots of space. Persons who have never owned a lizard before should opt for ones which are easy to handle and relatively small in size. The favourite lizards which are purchased as pets are Leopard Geckos. They are small in size, require only basic maintenance and do not demand special conditions such as big terrariums with special UV lightning. Following closely are Bearded Dragons which average 18 to 24 inches in length. They are very easy to handle but they require a big terrarium with special UV lightning. Mom and Dad’s Bearded Dragon, “Gizmo,” pictured above, had a terrarium that was 40 inches long by 24 inches wide by 12 inches deep. It had oak framed removable screens on the top to allow air to circulate and the heat from the heat lamp to enter and it also had outdoor carpet on the floor because it was easy to clean. Some Bearded Dragon owners have sand in at least part of their terrariums, but keeping it clean is a little more work. “Gizmo’s” terrarium was made from an old plate glass store window, so it only cost a few hundred dollars. However, if you were to purchase a commercially made terrarium of that size it would be quite a large investment.

Another good option as pet lizards are Anoles. Like bearded dragons, they too are easily manageable, but need a big terrarium with special UV lightning. Following next are Blue-tongued Skinks, Green Anoles, Fat Tailed Geckos, Mocquard’s Madagascar Ground Gecko, Tokay Geckos and Day Geckos.

The bigger the lizard the more challenging it becomes to have them as pets. They need a bigger environment; there can be handling issues and many other factors. For example, Iguanas are very good pets, but they need lots of space along with lots of care. In addition, once an Iguana gets of breeding age, which is about three years, they get quite aggressive during breeding season and can deliver a very nasty bite. Full grown Iguanas are frequently six to seven feet in length. Other lizards that pose a challenge as pets are Chameleons, Savannah Monitors and Argentine Black and White Tegus.

Lighting and temperature are very important factors. Most lizards are very specific about the temperature they require. The temperature of their terrarium should be as closely matched to the temperature of their native habitat as possible. Although lizards are cold-blooded, they require warmth for healthy growth. In the wild, these reptiles move to areas where they find a desirable temperature. They will stay out in the sun or move into the shade depending on the conditions they require. For example after eating, “Gizmo” moved under his heat lamp to aid in his digestion. When he had finished digesting his food he would move into a cooler area of his terrarium. So a temperature gradient is a must so that the appropriate temperature can be provided for your pet. Most lizards are omnivorous. They eat fruits, leaves, insects and even small mammals. Some lizards will require you to buy “pinkies” which are freshly born live mice. Others will require a lot of crickets as part of their meal. Some require mealworms as part of their diet, but it is recommended that if mealworms are used that they have their heads removed before feeding them to your lizard. There have been unconfirmed reports of live mealworms chewing through the stomach wall of lizards, resulting in the death of the pet.

Potential owners must carefully observe the lizard before buying it. They should also do a lot of research so that they know the size, shape, personality, food, and environmental requirements of the lizard they plan to purchase. Usually most lizards become stressed from all the travelling and changing environments they endure coming from their place of birth to the place of sale.

There are signs that you should look for to determine if the lizard is healthy or not. Firstly, the body should be fleshy and not flaky. The skin should shine and should not have large wrinkles or scratches. They should look healthy and not bony. If the tail bones and hipbones are visible, they are probably sick as this is the area where lizards store their fat. Swelling on the abdomen or on any other part of the body should also be checked out. They should have bright attentive looking eyes, not dull ones. They should also move when the pet shop owner opens the cage where they are kept.

The eyes should be clean and should not have any discharge. If the reptile has any respiratory disease, its eyes will be swollen and there will be mucus formation around the nose. The overall sanitary conditions should also be checked. The more unclean the surroundings, the more likely the reptile will have a disease. Also, ask to handle the pet. This should be done to test the friendliness of the lizard and to ensure that its limbs are firm and undamaged.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. “Gizmo” lived to be eight years old and he loved to be cuddled. If he didn’t get at least two hours of cuddling each evening (while mom was watching TV) he would get sulky. He loved to lay on mom’s chest and tuck his nose against her throat under her chin. The last night he lived, he lay on her chest and just before passing away, he struggled up and placed his nose against her throat. Then he shuddered and died. It was a very sad and moving experience, but he just had to let her know, before dying, that he “loved” her.

Drying the Dog

There are various pieces of drying equipment available for both the professional and the non professional groomer to use. The most common dryer for professionals is the free standing hot air blowing dryer. This dryer can also be used by non professionals, but it is rather expensive for home use. Regardless of the type of dryer that you choose, from professional free standing dryers to inexpensive hand held ones, the following techniques apply.

Method of drying medium to long coated breeds.

Having towel dried the dog or used a blaster (if the dog will allow it), place the dog on a non-slip surface, preferably attached via a leash (lead) to a hook in the wall or a frame over the table. In this way, the dog will feel secure when the dryer is directed at him. If the dog is used to being dried, you may start on the head so that the dog warms up quickly, however if the dog is a little timid or fidgety it is best to start from the back and work toward the front, allowing him to become accustomed to it. Pick up the hair using a slicker brush and direct the hot air onto this, not onto the dog's body as it could be too hot. The slicker brush entangles and twists the hair, which allows the roots to dry as well as the hair on the brush. Continue this process until all the hair is dry. Make sure that you are systematic - only move on when the section you are working on is totally dry. Most of today’s dryers have two settings, a high setting and a low setting. Many dogs need the weaker (therefore quieter) of the settings directed at them when working on their heads. Some timid dogs will require the low setting for the entire drying process.

Fluff Drying Poodles, Bichon Frises and Bedlington Terriers.

Having mastered the basic techniques of drying you can move on to fluff drying the curly coats. Unlike the other breeds, do not attempt to completely dry the curly coated dog’s hair before starting to fluff dry. The secret is to towel dry one side more than the other. Start to fluff dry on the side that is driest. The wetter side will begin to dry naturally, but it should only get as dry as the side you towel dried by the time you are ready to fluff dry it. It is important to dry the head first on these breeds so that no hint of a curl is seen. You want the head perfectly dried so that it is ready for shaping. The pom on the poodles should then be dried followed by the legs and body. The slicker brush should be in constant motion throughout, flicking the hair in all four directions. The quicker the flick the better the result! Remember that you are not brushing to remove knots, as these should have been removed before bathing. Therefore to properly fluff dry, pressure is not necessary. It's the correct flicking technique that is vital. Do not move on until the section you are working on is thoroughly dry. Damp curly hair will result in kinks and waves, a coat on which it is impossible to achieve a desirable finish when scissoring. Remember when using the slicker brush to take care around the facial area, the hocks and the belly as these areas are tender and can easily be scratched. If this occurs, not only will the dog bleed, but it will also make it much more difficult to groom it in the future. Bathing, drying and grooming your dog should be a fun and bonding experience for both of you. (If you are a professional, frequent scratching of your customer’s dog will result in loss of that customer.) Take it from me, a good bath, drying, a nice brushing and a hair cut are great, however, a brushing that results in scratches could earn you an introduction to my teeth.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets - Crocodiles

Whenever I think of crocodiles I think of the late Steve Irwin, “The Crocodile Hunter,” whose life was tragically cut short. Whenever I hear the word crocodile I can see his big grin and wild mop of hair and hear him say, “Croiky that was close!”

Crocodiles belong to the Crocodylidae family, which also includes alligators and caimans. Crocodiles are huge aquatic reptiles that can be traced back thousands of years. Some live in fresh water bodies such as rivers, wetlands, lakes and brackish water and some live in salt water. The largest species live in salt water. They are found in Africa, Asia, Australia and America. Crocodiles are frequently confused with alligators, however, if you examine the head you can easily tell the difference. Crocodiles have a V shaped head and alligators have a U shaped head. As you can see from the above photo, the nose is very narrow when compaired to the width of the head at the eyes.

Crocodiles should only be considered for a pet by those who have past experience with dangerous exotic pets. They are certainly not recommended for beginners, or even intermediate pet owners. People that are interested in having a reptile for a pet should consider an agamid, gecko, skink, bearded dragon, or a small snake. Crocodiles are for very experienced hobbyists only. They are extremely difficult to handle and house and the expense to keep one as a pet is very large. Even small juvenile crocodiles become hard to handle after they reach one year of age. As they grow older, they become stronger and more dangerous. It is only after this that owners realize the harsh truth and release the crocodile illegally into the wild. This creates a very dangerous situation because the crocodile does not fear humans because of it past association, so it will become more confident and will attack humans whenever it gets the opportunity.

These reptiles are frequently underestimated. Until you have dealt with one, you cannot believe how strong and fast they are. You should have a lot of practice dealing with reptiles before attempting to handle a crocodile, and even then only when being supervised by an experienced crocodile handler. In fact, the larger the crocodile, the greater the number of people required to handle it. If an untrained or inexperienced team attempts to handle a crocodile, they will probably be seriously injured and possibly even killed. No amount of training can tame a crocodile. Unfortunately, most owners don’t realize this until they are attacked by their supposed pet. Each year owners of pet crocodiles are bitten and many pets are either killed or illegally let loose by owners who can no longer handle them.

Crocodiles have a streamline body, which facilitates swimming. While swimming, they tuck their limbs to the side of their bodies, which helps them to swim even faster as that decreases water resistance. Their webbed feet help them to make fast and sudden turns. The muscles that are involved in closing the jaw are so powerful that the jaw can shut with a pressure of five thousand pounds per square inch. Their teeth are very sharp and they use these to tear the flesh of their prey. In addition, they also have very sharp claws.

Fortunately, the muscles that are used to open the jaws are extremely weak. Therefore, in case of an attack, the victim should hold the jaw closed. That is the reason why, when the crocodile is being transported, the jaws are kept shut with big rubber bands made out of automobile inner tubes. The lateral movement of the neck is restricted by nature in this reptile, so when a human faces an attack on land, he can save himself by getting behind a tree and keeping the crocodile on the other side.

Crocodiles eat both vertebrates and invertebrates. For example, they eat mammals, reptiles, fish, crustaceans and molluscs. They can live from thirty years to more than one hundred years of age. Owners should be aware of this fact and make preparations in advance because there is a large possibility that the pet will outlive the owner. Full grown Crocodiles are from five feet to six feet in length and weigh over two thousand pounds. At birth they only measure twenty centimetres. This is one of the factors which tempt owners to keep them as pets. However, when they begin to grow, the owner panics and starts thinking of abandoning them with the above mentioned tragic results.

My recommendation is to leave crocodiles in zoos or in the wild and pick smaller more docile reptiles as pets.

Until next time,

Teia

Vaccinating Your Pets

Timely vaccinations are a very important part of your pet's health. Different types of vaccines should be given at different times and locations. For example, if you live in an area where rabies is prevalent, then you should have your pet vaccinated for this disease. However, if you live in an area where rabies is rare, then it may not be necessary to get your pet vaccinated against this disease, or it may only need to be vaccinated every two or three years instead of every year. Currently there is a lot of controversy among veterinarians and among staff at veterinarian colleges regarding the frequency of vaccinations. These professionals are currently conducting tests to determine the optimal time frame for safe and effective vaccinations. When they have arrived at a major consensus, I will post a further entry on this topic.

Some people are against vaccination of their pets and some are in favour of it, but my assertion is that there are risks involved with both decisions. A firm statement cannot be made on this topic as the rules vary from one individual animal to another, depending on the needs and tolerance levels of the animal involved. There are, however, certain factors to be considered when you are making your decision. I will try and point out these factors in this post.

Young animals which have been separated from their mothers before they reach six weeks of age and who are bottle fed, are at higher risk of getting diseases. This is because these animals do not get enough maternal antibodies from their mothers milk, which protect them from contracting diseases, until their own immune system becomes fully developed. The development of an animal's immune system can differ on the basis of the mother's antibodies, the amount and type of viruses the young animal is exposed to, the potency of the viruses and the body's ability to withstand the virus attack. Diet and nutrition will also play an important role in the young animal's ability to ward off disease.

Animals which don't get their mother's antibodies and which aren't exposed to diseases, do not build the antibodies needed to ward of these diseases on their own. As a result, they need to be vaccinated against these diseases so that the vaccination causes their bodies to build the necessary antibodies needed to prevent them from contracting these diseases if they are exposed to them at a later time.

As mentioned above, numerous pet owners do not believe in vaccinating their pets. They feel that the risks associated with vaccinations outweigh the benefits from them. This is a personal decision, which has both good points and bad points associated with it. An unvaccinated animal exposed to a disease would have a poor chance of warding off that disease. On the other hand, if their animal is never vaccinated, then it will never have an adverse reaction to a vaccination.

Vaccines and vaccinations are being improved all the time, so fatal reactions to vaccinations are now becoming rare, but they do happen on occasion. One thing that needs to be covered more thoroughly by both the owner and the veterinarian is the history and genetics of the animal. When obtaining a pet, it is inherent on the new owner to determine the background of the animal, its parents and grandparents, if possible. By checking the animal's family background it can be determined if any family members suffered from any genetic diseases, or had adverse reactions to vaccinations. The veterinarian should also do a thorough physical examination of the animal including blood testing to ensure the animal is healthy. Sickly animals will have more likelihood of experiencing an adverse reaction to a vaccination than healthy animals. Also, by having the weight of the animal, the veterinarian can determine the exact amount of vaccine that should be given to the animal, reducing the likelihood of an adverse reaction and still ensuring that the animal is protected against that specific disease.

The environment where the animal is being kept also plays a major role in both diseases that they might get and their reaction to vaccinations. If the animal is kept in a sanitary and clean place, it is less likely to become ill. A dirty environment not only spreads viruses and bacteria, but also affects the immune system and the overall health of the animal(s) kept there.

Another important factor that should be considered when determining if your pet should be vaccinated and what it should be vaccinated for is your lifestyle. If you travel a lot and you want to take your pet with you, then you will find that many jurisdictions require numerous vaccinations for your pet. If you cannot present an up-to-date vaccination record for your pet, they will frequently confiscate the animal and put it into a quarantine facility. Your animal will be held for a long period of time, usually 30 to 45 days, at your expense, and it will probably be given a multitude of vaccinations. If, while there, it shows any sign of illness, it will be euthanized. You could also find yourself in court for transporting a contagious animal. To prevent this sort of thing from happening, make sure that you either have your animal vaccinated according to the requirements of the jurisdictions you will be travelling through, or leave your animal home and hire a pet sitter. You will also find that the majority of good quality pet boarding facilities will not accept your pet unless it has an up-to-date vaccination record. They cannot take the chance that your pet may pass on a disease to the other animals in their care.

Mom and dad have owned numerous pets of all kinds over the years. Any pet that went outside their home was vaccinated with all the vaccines recommended by the veterinarian for the area where they lived at that time. None of their pets ever had a reaction to a vaccination and none of them ever caught a disease for which a vaccine was available.

To vaccinate or not to vaccinate, the choice is yours. However, please bear in mind what I have outlined above. Personally, my choice is to vaccinate as it has worked very well for me.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets: Hermit Crabs

Hermit crabs are not related in any way to the marine crabs you see crawling across the beaches of the world. Hermit crabs belong to the super family Paguroidea. They are called Hermit crabs because they like to occupy abandoned seashells. They do this to protect their delicate abdomen from predators. There are nearly 500 species of Hermit crabs in the world and most of them live in water. Wild Hermit crabs traditionally live in large colonies of 100 or more occupants.

When a Hermit crab outgrows its current shell, it abandons the shell and moves into a larger one. While it is searching for a larger shell, a Hermit crab is easy prey for predators. Hermit crabs with well fitting shells grow faster than ones that have tight fitting shells. Ones with tight shells cannot withdraw into the shell as easily or quickly as those with well fitting shells, so they are more vulnerable to predators which flip over the shell and attack the Hermit crab's soft abdomen. Because the availability of abandoned shells depends on the population of gastropods in the area, there is frequently a shortage of shells. This usually leads to Hermit crabs fighting with each other for shells. Very rarely do Hermit crabs voluntarily trade shells with each other. When a Hermit crab selects a new shell, it is usually at least one-third larger than their current shell.

Hermit crabs have a tough exoskeleton which covers most of their body, except for their soft abdomen. Therefore, to grow, the Hermit crab has to shed its exoskeleton and grow another one. This process is known as molting. During the molting process, which lasts approximately two weeks, the Hermit crab buries itself in gravel and becomes inactive. Small Hermit crabs molt about once a month and larger ones about once every eighteen months.

Hermit crabs are now being kept as exotic pets because as well as being interesting, they require the least amount of maintenance of all the exotic pets. They seldom grow bigger than a large peach, so they can be kept in a normal aquarium. In the last number of years, many species of Hermit crabs have become part of the marine aquarium trade. Blue legged Hermit crabs, Zebra Hermit crabs, red reef Hermit crabs, common Hermit crabs and red tip Hermit crabs are some of the types which are kept as pets. The most desirable Hermit crab for a pet is the red reef Hermit crab or as it is sometimes called, the scarlet Hermit crab. It is very strikingly coloured, with a bright red body and yellow eye stalks.

Aquatic Hermit crabs live in salt water with salinity ranging from 1.023 to 1.025. The water temperature should be between 75 degrees Fahrenheit and 80 degrees Fahrenheit for species that come from tropical waters, and cooler for ones that come from temperate waters. The gravel bed of the aquarium where they are housed should be fairly deep, full of algae and it should be covered with many different sized and shaped seashells. If Hermit crabs have a large number of shells to choose from, they will change shells frequently. This is very interesting to watch. Other activities such as climbing and digging are also interesting to watch.

Hermit crabs should be fed daily. Their food dishes should be fairly low and flat so that the Hermit crab can easily climb in and out of the dish. Some species of Hermit crabs are herbivorous and some are omnivorous. When you buy your Hermit crab(s) make sure that the seller tells you what kind you have purchased so that when you buy commercial food, you get the kind designed for the crabs you have. You can also add fresh vegetables and fruit to you crab's diet, however, you must ensure that you never leave this fresh produce in your tank for more than 24 hours as it will begin to decay and will contaminate the water, endangering your pet. Should you choose a land Hermit crab, in addition to its daily food, it needs to be sprinkled with lukewarm water for several minutes. The gravel in your tank should be removed and your tank should be washed about once every month or two. While removing the gravel look at it carefully to ensure uneaten commercial food is removed before it becomes toxic from decay. When removing the water, ensure that you save at least half of it for refilling the tank. This ensures that your crab(s) are not stressed by a drastic change in the water. (Note, do not use soap to wash your tank as the residue left behind could be fatal to your crab(s). Use either plain water or water with a few drops of white vinegar in it to wash your tank. If using a water-vinegar wash water, be sure to rinse the tank thoroughly with plain water and dry it out before putting water back into the tank. If the old water looks “grubby” pour it back into the tank through a paper coffee filter to remove the solids).

You can train your Hermit crab(s) to climb onto your hand by holding your open hand, palm up, in front of your pet. If you keep your hand motionless, in a few minutes, your Hermit crab will climb on. It may pinch your palm, but it will usually let go if you stir the water near it with your other hand. If your pet is a land Hermit crab, run your hand with the crab on it, under lukewarm water and it will immediately let go.

Until next time,

Teia

Should Your Pets Eat a Raw Diet? Five Considerations Before You Start

After the pet food recalls of a couple of years ago, many pet owners are looking for alternatives to commercial diets. Some people are preparing home-cooked meals for their dogs, while others go all the way to formulating species-appropriate raw diets to ensure the best health possible for their pets.

While the many aspects of raw feeding go beyond the scope of this article, there are five major considerations to look at before even considering the raw food route:

Your Veterinarian

Just like traditional allopathic medical doctors balk at alternative medicine, so do many veterinarians oppose raw feed. Warnings about bacteria in the food are most common (the healthy dog's stomach acids don't allow for bacterial proliferation). The dangers of bones are often cited as well (again, a healthy, raw-fed dog's stomach acids will break down uncooked bones relatively easily. Cooked bones can be deadly). Be sure to educate yourself about these "dangers" before approaching your vet.

It is important to maintain a good working relationship with your vet. Of course, if your pet has any health problems, you need to consult with your vet before starting a new feeding regimen of any type. If your vet just does not like raw diets, you may need to find a holistic vet who will be more understanding about your desire to feed a raw diet. Try http://www.holisticvetlist.com to look for a holistic vet.

Your pet sitter

Be sure to discuss your decision with your pet sitter, if you use one. Some people who have no trouble cleaning up after your pet may turn out to be squeamish about handling raw meat and its juices. Explain your reasons for the switch and make it as easy as possible for your sitter by freezing meal size portions and leaving detailed instructions.

Your boarding kennel

The same goes for boarding kennels, though it may be more difficult to find one that will go all the way in accommodating your preferences. Some just won't be bothered, while others simply don't have the freezer space to store your food. If you board your pets on a regular basis, it is a good idea to keep them used to their current commercial food by feeding them with it at least two or three times a week. Give yourself or your sitter a night off, and prepare your pet for a stay at the kennel at the same time.

Your travel plans

Do you plan on travelling with your pet? While you can easily bring the food on short trips, longer vacations require advance planning. Do you have access to a freezer at your destination? Is there a grocery store that carries quality meats? Will you need to take a food processor with you?

If you're usually buying a commercially prepared raw pet food like Oma's Pride, ask your local distributor to put you in touch with one servicing your destination area. She or he will be happy to help you out during your stay.

Your freezer

Unless you're only feeding a cat or a teacup size dog, the little bit of freezer space above your fridge is not likely to be enough to store raw pet food. So you're looking at an additional investment in a freezer. It should be large enough to store six to eight weeks' worth of your pets' food. Keep in mind that this includes enough variety of food to ensure a balance of nutrients.

The recommended guideline is 3% of body weight per day for a healthy adult animal. "Variety" means several different meat sources (chicken, beef, turkey, rabbit, etc.), including different cuts and bones (ground or whole), and organ meats, and some vegetables for dogs (NOT for cats!). Work with your distributor or join one of the many online raw feeding lists to determine your needs.

Incidentally, many people find that once they have a freezer, they start buying more food for the family as well, so don't be surprised if you "outgrow" your first freezer!

Raw feeding proponents claim that raw diets can provide many health benefits to your pets, including curing or stabilizing various health conditions and providing increased vitality and longevity. As long as you can overcome these initial obstacles, you'll be able to enjoy your best friends for many years to come.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. Note that there are a lot of very highly educated nutritionists that claim that raw food diets cause problems in modern animals because they are different animals than the wild beasts from which they originated. So, do your research before jumping on the raw pet food bandwagon.

Unusual Pets: Degus

The Degu (Octodon degus) is a small caviomorph rodent that is native to Chile. It is sometimes referred to as the Brush-Tailed Rat (even though it is not closely related to the rat family) and it is also called the Common Degu, to distinguish it from the other members of the genus Octodon. Degus are very friendly and intelligent pets when compared to other rodents. They are hassle free and demand less maintenance.

Some people compare Degus to chinchillas, squirrels and even gerbils. They are a tweed brown colour and have a long tail with brush like hair at the end. The tail is nearly one to two thirds of the body’s length. They use it to maintain balance while climbing. While walking they keep it in an upright position. Their belly is cream in colour and there are circles around their eyes. Their ears and whiskers are surprisingly big. They nibble on their claws, so their claws don’t require clipping or filing. The Degu’s forelimbs are longer than their hind limbs. They are born with yellow teeth that turn orange after reacting to the chlorophyll present in plants. Their saliva also turns orange because of reaction to chlorophyll.

These friendly rodents are exported as pets from Chile to other countries. There are some import restrictions on Degus in the United States, so it is uncommon to find Degus in pet shops there, but they can be found in pet stores all over Europe. Initially other countries bought them not as exotic pets, but to be used in laboratory experiments. They do not have the ability to digest sugar, so they were used in tests related to diabetes.

When young, their size is similar to that of gerbils and when they grow to their full size they are about the same size as hamsters. They reach their full size within a few months, so their cage and all their equipment should be bought with this in mind. The cage should be quite large and must have a running wheel in it. Their average body weight is 160-230 grams (approximately one-third of a pound to half a pound) when they reach adulthood.

Degus are very playful animals, so you should keep lots of toys in their cage. Since baby Degus do not fight with each other, they spend all of their time playing.

It would not be a good idea to keep their cage in a bedroom as they will keep people awake with all the noise they make. Although they are diurnal, they only sleep for short periods of time, so they will probably be awake for several hours at night. They are at peak activity in the morning and the evening. However, since they only sleep in short shifts, they are active at other times, but not so vigorously. Degus are not afraid of humans, however, since they are sociable animals, it is recommended that they be kept in groups of two or more. If they are kept alone, their life span decreases and they get really depressed, in spite of human attention. They also have a tendency to become aggressive.

Degus shed their tail in defence when predators attack them. As a result, it is recommended that you never tug on the tail. If you do, the tail will bleed and then it will dry up and slowly fall off or because it is drying up the Degu will chew it off. Note that once the tail comes off, it doesn’t grow back. This will affect the animal's balance and climbing ability.

Degus don’t like to be held tightly and they don’t like to be held for long periods of time. Never lift them from above as they will become scared. In the wild they have to contend with birds striking from above, so they have developed a natural wariness of being grabbed from that direction. Owners can get them to climb onto the palm of their hand by stretching out their palms and calling out to them calmly. It won’t happen right away, but as the Degus develop voice familiarity and learn to trust their owners, they become quite tame.

In their wild forest habitat, most Degus live less than a year. About 1 percent live up to two years. But in captivity, they can live up to five years or more. Females, who live with males, die much quicker than the males because they become weak from constant pregnancies. Their pregnancy periods last for eighty-seven to ninety-three days. Therefore, it is recommended that members of the same sex should be kept together as pets. If the owner is interested in breeding them, opposite sexes can be kept together, but you should be careful about exhausting the female with too many pregnancies. It is recommended that females should only have one pregnancy per year.

If you live in the United States and you are interested in having one or more of these animals as a pet, be sure to check with municipal, county and state authorities before attempting to import any. You don’t want to pay for one or more and then find them confiscated because your city, county or state prohibits their ownership.

Until next time,

Teia

Grooming Your Pet Cat

Regular grooming of your cat is vital to keeping it healthy, especially if your cat has long hair. Think of the cat's coat as the fur and skin together: You cannot have a healthy coat unless both the skin and fur are healthy.

It is the nature of most cats to maintain well-groomed coats. If you examine your cat's tongue, you will see little bristles on it that face toward the back of the tongue. Cats use these bristles to groom themselves, often for hours at a time.

Most cats do their own grooming, but they need your help to do a complete job. For example, your cat's tongue cannot reach behind her ears or on top of her head or back. Also, the bristles on her tongue cannot always get through matted hair. That's where you come in.

Grooming a cat, whether it has long or short hair, requires both work and patience. These guidelines will aid an amateur groomer. However, there may be times, even when following these guidelines, when you will not be able to do it yourself and will need professional assistance. This is especially true if you have a long-haired cat that mats badly, or a cat that becomes violent during grooming.

Most cats do not like water and if bathing is necessary you may require assistance from a professional who knows the special handling needed to bathe an objecting cat. Some cats object so strenuously to bathing that you will need to get them sedated. If that's the case with your pet, do not let your groomer do it, let only veterinarians give your pet sedatives of any kind.

When you get a kitten, it should not need to be groomed until it is at least 14 to 16 weeks of age.

When brushing your cat or kitten, always brush with the hair. If you brush against the lay of the hair, you could scratch your cat’s skin. In addition, most cats do not like to have their hair pushed backward. Since you want grooming your cat to be enjoyable for both of you, start at the head and work toward the tip of the tail. On the sides of your cat, start at the back bone and brush toward the stomach. Most cats are ticklish, so be very gentle when grooming your cat’s tummy. If your cat has mats in its hair, use a dematting comb. These combs are available from most pet supply stores. Unless you are well versed in cutting cats’ hair, I suggest that you leave getting your cat’s hair cut to a professional groomer. My mom and dad have owned a number of cats over the years and they never found it necessary to have the hair cut on any of these cats. Brushing is another matter. As long as you are gentle, most cats enjoy being brushed.

Several different types of brushes are available for pets. Some of them are slicker types with wire bristles. Others are pin brushes with thicker metal bristles with rounded tips. Others have bristles with little plastic balls on the ends and still others have bristles just like your own hair brush. Pin brushes are better than slicker brushes because they are gentler on the skin and do not scratch or hurt. All are relatively inexpensive, so use the one that does the best job with the least amount of fuss from your cat. I cannot recommend any specific type of brush, because like dogs, each cat will feel comfortable with a different style of brush depending on their particular coat.

The finale of a thorough grooming is trimming your cat's nails. There is a special nail clipper designed for cat nails. Dog nail clippers are too cumbersome and splinter cats' nails. So, when buying nail clippers, you may want to get a recommendation from your vet. Mom and dad got the nail clippers for their cats from a veterinarian and they were very effective.

Mom and dad found that an overall brushing once a week was sufficient for most of their cats. They had one cat that created a grooming problem. This cat was a little strange. He would walk along the picket fence to avoid getting his feet wet, but whenever he saw the neighbour’s daughter he would jump into the nearest puddle and lie there feebly meowing. She would rush over and pick him up and cuddle him, getting covered in mud, much to her mother’s annoyance. She would pack the cat home and he would lay in her arms with a sappy look on his face and purr like mad. I think he had a crush on her. Fortunately, he enjoyed a bath when he got muddy, so this made cleaning him up a little easier to do.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets: The Clouded Leopard

The fantastic pattern of the Clouded Leopard's fur is more striking than the stripes, spots and shades of other animals. The pattern of its fur looks like marble blotches and as a result, the Clouded Leopard is often referred to as the marbled cat. Each blotch is different from all the others. While the small blotches are exquisite, the larger ones are even more beautiful. Because of their unique fur, the Clouded Leopard has been hunted almost to extinction. Fortunately they are now protected under the Endangered Species Act, however, poachers still keep the species on the verge of extinction.

The major difference between the males and females is the weight of the animals. The males weigh up to sixty pounds and the females seldom exceed thirty pounds. Since their natural habitat includes spending a lot of time in tall trees, their long, thick and furry tail provides excellent balance. They have the longest canine teeth among the cat family. Their body structure is compressed and powerful. Clouded Leopards have short but muscular legs with huge front paws.

Since the animal comes from forested regions, it is very found of climbing. Therefore, in captivity, its cage should be built as tall as possible. It must be at least ten feet high and it would be even better if were up to forty feet high with trees provided within the cage. Climbing trees and reaching great height is a must exercise for them to satisfy their psychological needs. If the cat is taken outdoors to climb trees, be very careful because if they escape they are very quick and difficult to catch. Their cage should also be equipped with hanging toys, which they can leap to catch. Other toys can also be included.

Clouded Leopards can be fed live chickens, pigeons, rabbits, rats and even chunks of fresh beef. Before consuming their food Clouded Leopards do a ritual which aids in the digestion process. The prey is killed and then the Clouded Leopard plays with the dead prey for more than an hour. When it has finished playing, then it eats what it has killed. If a tree is provided in its living habitat, it will take its dead prey up the tree and eat it there. Other than their regular food they should also be given daily vitamin supplements and the giblets of chickens or turkeys. Their daily diet should consist of at least one chicken, a rabbit and a rat. Clouded Leopards can make up to forty different sounds. They mimic many birds and monkeys in order to lure them into striking range. Once the prey is nearby they pounce on them and subsequently kill them. In the wild they frequently drop on their prey from overhanging tree branches.

In the wild Clouded Leopards bond when they are quite young and keep the same mate for life. Unsuccessful attempts have been made to breed them in captivity by introducing the pair to each other post adolescence, which is too late. In order to be successful, the pair should be introduced very early so that they can take time to develop a comfort level with each other. Once they bond, the pair shouldn’t be separated, as separation will cause one or both to die prematurely.

After a baby Clouded Leopard is born, it can be kept with its mother for six weeks, after which it should be paired with one of the opposite sex for bonding. If the cub is separated earlier than that, it can be fed with bottled milk, which also helps to develop a relationship with the owner.

Clouded Leopards in the wild do not live in prides like other wild cats, and they avoid inhabited areas. Therefore, in zoos, these animals shouldn’t be exposed to the public for long periods of time because it causes them extreme stress, which will eventually cause untimely death. Also, they shouldn’t be transferred frequently as this also causes them stress.

Some states in the USA will not allow you to have Clouded Leopards as pets and even in states where they are allowed, they come at a huge price. Because of their rarity and the fact that they are easily stressed, keeping Clouded Leopards as pets is not encouraged.


Until next time,

Teia