Unusual Pets - Rabbits

When our family first moved to Regina, Saskatchewan from Ottawa, Ontario the younger daughter bought herself a rabbit which she named “Amy”. “Amy” was a small brown rabbit that was a real joy. The pet store where she was purchased called her a Dutch dwarf, but in actuality, she was probably a Netherlands Dwarf. She lived in a cage in the basement, but each evening she was let out to run around in the family room (also in the basement) so she could interact with the family. She became great friends with the two poodles the family had at that time and they used to play tag and also hide-and-go-seek. The family spent many hours watching their antics. “Amy” used to love to cuddle. If she felt that she wasn't getting enough attention, she would either nip the person holding her or scratch their chest. “Amy” was a shorthaired rabbit, so when she got sick no one suspected that she had a large hairball in her stomach. When she did not show signs of recovery after a couple of days, she was taken to a veterinarian. He suspected that it was a hairball, so he gave her some medicine used on cats for that ailment. Within minutes she went into convulsions and died. He performed an autopsy and discovered that she had a severe allergic reaction to the medication. He also determined that the hairball was very dense and that it had plugged the exit from the stomach into the intestine. “Amy” had become such a part of the family that it was devastating when she died.

So, if you want a great pet that's cute, cuddly and won't grow from a cute little ball of fur to a 100-pound beast, then consider a rabbit.

Here are just a few reasons why you should consider a rabbit for a pet.

1) Plenty of choices.

There are 45 different breeds of rabbits recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA).

Do you want a small rabbit? Consider a Netherlands Dwarf, Polish or Jersey Wooly.

Do you want a large rabbit? Then choose a Flemish Giant that can weigh up to 20 pounds.

Are you attracted to the “lop” eared rabbits? The Holland Lop is a popular choice because of its smaller size, but you can also choose from a Mini Lop, French Lop, American Fuzzy Lop or even an English Lop. An English Lop's ears can be up to 24 inches long.

Are you picky about color? Rabbits come in a variety of colors. You can undoubtedly find one or more colors that will appeal to your tastes!

Do you want a rabbit with a lot of fur? Then choose one of the Angora breeds, or a Jersey Wooly. But be prepared to spend extra time grooming the rabbit!

So the choices are endless and for many people, the choices are hard. Like the potato chip commercial says, “You can't choose just one!” However, if you do get more than one, remember that nothing breeds more quickly than rabbits. Also the bucks (male rabbits) tend to be more aggressive and have a tendency to be less clean than the females.

2) Rabbits are quiet.

It's guaranteed: You'll never have neighbors calling you to quiet down your rabbit. It just won't happen.

3) Rabbits can live indoors or outdoors.

Obviously, there are rabbits that live in the wild, but they can adapt to living inside as well.

If you keep rabbits outside, you need to make sure they have adequate shelter and are well protected from predators. These include the neighborhood dogs and cats that may wander through your yard.

They need to be protected from the elements and have plenty of ventilation. When hot weather comes, you need to take special measures to keep your rabbit safe because hot weather bothers them more than cold weather.

Many people keep their rabbits inside and that's fine as well. If you keep your rabbit inside, you'll need to spend some time preparing your home for your new friend.

Be sure to keep electrical wires away from your rabbit. Rabbits love to chew and those wires are tempting . . . and lethal. “Amy” chewed an extension cord just as efficiently as if she had used a set of wire cutting pliers. Fortunately, the cord was not plugged in at the time. After that the family made sure there were no electrical cords in the family room when “Amy” was loose.

Rabbits can be litter-box trained and are very clean animals. So feel free to keep them inside if this is what you want to do. A friend who lives in an apartment has two rabbits, both female, that are litter trained and she gives them complete freedom of the house. To do this, she does not have any electrical wires near the floor. She also does not have very much wooden furniture. What she does have is well chewed.

4) Rabbits are fun to have around.

Just watching them play in their cages is great fun, but let them out, hold them and pet them and you'll be hooked!

5) Rabbits are extremely cute.

Have you ever seen an ugly rabbit? I don't think anyone has!

With rabbits, the babies are very cute and adorable, and they stay cute and adorable when they grow up.

Mom and dad like dogs. There are three of us in the house. Most dogs are cute as puppies , but when they grow up, some turn into huge ugly beasts. That won't happen with rabbits. They'll stay cute their whole life.

6) They can be low cost to keep.

Rabbits are low-cost pets. Shots at the vet are usually unnecessary and you can easily take care of your rabbit yourself. If you care for your rabbit correctly, there will be no need to visit a vet at all. Just remember that rabbits, like cats, suffer from hair balls, so every once in a while add a little vegetable oil (3 or 4 drops) to their food.

So, pick out a rabbit for your very own, take it home and you will fall in love with it in no time.

Until next time,

Teia

Suggestions to Help Prevent Your Cat from Getting Hairballs

Cats are fastidious animals. They prefer clean things and apparently the one thing they like really clean is themselves. Because of this, they spend an excessive amount of time grooming themselves. The act of licking themselves helps to untangle and remove loose hair. Their tongue is specifically made for the task. It is covered with little bumps and toward the center of the tongue are tiny barb-like bumps that act to snag the hair. Unfortunately, this habit of grooming can lead to the formation of hairballs in your cat’s stomach.

Cats cannot digest the hair they swallow. However, they are able to pass the hair through their digestive system in small amounts. A problem occurs when the cat does not get enough fiber in its diet to push the hair through its system and out with its stool. When this occurs, the hair builds up and forms a hairball.

The distressed cat begins to cough and attempts to vomit the hairball up. For the loving cat owner, the gagging and retching is worrisome not to mention the annoying cleanup afterward. While the occasional hairball is probably nothing to be too alarmed about, frequent hairballs could be a cause for concern because they can result in digestive track troubles such as loss of appetite, constipation and in rare instances complete blockage of the intestinal tract.

You cannot prevent your cat from swallowing its loose hair. However, there are things that you can do to lessen the likelihood of hairballs forming. There are also natural remedies and commercial products that you can use to help the cat pass the hair through its digestive tract before hairballs form or break them up before they become too tightly packed. The best way to prevent your cat from swallowing large amounts of hair is to comb or brush your cat regularly. If the cat is well groomed, there won’t be very much loose hair for the cat to swallow. Long-haired cats should be combed or brushed daily and shorthaired cats once or twice a week.

If your cat needs assistance with its hairballs, there are commercial products that can be applied to the top of its front paws. These products are available from your veterinarian or better quality pet stores. The cat will lick these products off their feet and when swallowed these products will assist the hair to pass through the digestive system. Some people have reported that they have used lubricants such as Crisco All Vegetable Shortening, mayonnaise or butter as substitutes for these commercial products. Before you consider using these home made remedies, check with your veterinarian because the use of these products could cause other digestive problems. A few people have even used Vaseline, but it is not something that I would recommend. As previously stated, if you feel that your cat needs assistance eliminating hairballs from his system, check with your veterinarian as he or she is in a better position to determine the severity of the problem and what product would work best for your particular cat.

You may also feed your cat specially made cat food diets and treats that are intended to prevent the development of hairballs. Another interesting solution that I have heard about, but cannot vouch for its effectiveness, is to mix in about a teaspoon of canned pumpkin to your cat's normal food. Another suggested preventive method is to feed your cat grass a couple of times a week. I have no idea if this works or not, but I do know that dogs frequently eat grass when they have digestive problems. Again, check with your veterinarian. If he says it is acceptable, then you can consider growing the grass indoors. Rye, wheat or oat grasses are the best types to use and can be purchased at pet stores or on the Internet. Do not feed your cat grass from a chemically treated lawn it could be fatal to your cat.

It must be noted that cats will vomit for various reasons other than hairballs. Some of these may be from serious underlying conditions. Therefore, before attempting any of these remedies, it is advised that you consult with your veterinarian to rule out any other illness and to see which, if any, of these solutions should be tried. Along with your vet's help and one or more of these suggestions, it is possible that your cat will be able to live virtually hairball free. And remember, regular grooming of your cat will do much more than cut down the chances of him getting a hairball. It will allow you to remove dead hair, keep him clean, check for fleas or hidden injuries and allow you to bond more closely with your beloved pet.

Until next time,

Teia

An Overview of Dog Training

Dog training is the process of teaching a dog to exhibit certain desired behavior in specific circumstances. Training your dog should be an absolute top priority. Fundamentally, dog training and dog behavior are about communication. The goal of dog training is to build a bond between pet and family and to ensure that all enjoy the process. Dog training should ALWAYS be fun for your dog, so if you or your dog begin to get tired, take a break and come back to it later.

Obedience, herding, agility, tracking, retrieving, hunting, guard, and schutzhund are common areas of dog training. Training social skills is a continuous process. Training starts shortly after your pup comes home, beginning with teaching her to come when called. You also want to begin “potty” or “paper” training your dog so that she learns early where she should go to the bathroom. Waiting until the puppy is older and has already learned undesirable habits makes the training much more challenging. The old saying, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks” isn’t completely accurate, but it is much more difficult training an older dog than it is a puppy.

All dog training must be founded upon educating the dog, that is, teaching the dog what he can and cannot do. Bribery can also be a great dog training method. In dog training, the term "bribery" means that the dog is aware of the presence of the reward before he is asked to complete the command. Don’t be disheartened if it seems you are not getting anywhere with your dog training, because it generally takes people longer to learn how to train their dogs than it does for their dogs to be trained. The hardest part of training is communicating with the dog in a humane way that he understands. Until a few years ago, dog training used to consist of punishing the dog whenever it did something wrong. Fortunately that inhumane way of dog training is mostly a thing of the past. Today’s method involves rewards for good behavior. Clicker training has also emerged as a valuable method of training. Check with local obedience training facilities to find out what methods they use. Pet shops also have numerous books on training your dog. Peruse several the next time you are at the pet store and find one that makes sense to you and appears to fit into your lifestyle.

The emotional state of the dog is an important consideration in directing the training, as a dog that is stressed or distracted will not learn efficiently. Failure to reward the dog after he has done what you asked, diminishes the value of the reward method and makes training more difficult. Most training revolves around giving the dog a reward for his good behavior, in the hope of influencing the behavior the dog will exhibit in the future.

Most modern trainers say that they use "positive training methods,” which is a different meaning of the word "positive" from that in operant conditioning. Positive training methods generally mean preferring the use of reward-based training to increase good behavior over that of physical punishment to decrease bad behavior. The goal is to produce a dog that will perform even on occasions that the handler has no reward to offer, since the dog's training has taught him that the handler may have a reward even if the dog cannot see it.

Some trainers, fortunately a diminishing minority, suggest the use of electronic dog training collars as useful tools, especially in the training of a dog who has a barking problem. Mom and dad have researched these collars and found that they do not work very well, as the dog quickly learns the built in sequence that activates them. The dog then varies its barking so that the collar does not shock him and as a result, the barking doesn’t end. The dog also tends to become paranoid, because it does not associate the shock with the barking, as barking is a normal habit for a dog. It has the same effect as spanking a dog when you get home and find a mess on the carpet. The dog has no idea why it is getting spanked, because it can’t associate the spanking with the mess it made earlier. All that is accomplished by these methods of training is to make the dog fearful.

Although dog training can be hard at times, it’s important that you remember to keep things positive for you and your dog at all times. If you experience problems with your training, do not hesitate to seek professional help from a certified dog trainer. After all, half the training involved with training a dog is training the owner how to communicate what is required in a manner that the dog understands. If the dog understands what is wanted, training becomes much easier for both of you. Dogs are creatures of habit. If you are consistent with your training and your expectations, the dog will soon learn what he can and cannot do.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets - The Bearded Dragon

A Bearded Dragon, or Beardie as they are commonly called, is a medium sized lizard native to Australia, which has become an enormously popular pet in the Americas and Europe due to their gentle nature and manageable size. Virtually all Bearded Dragons available in America and Europe are captive bred, as Australia has strict laws against exportation of its wildlife. A bearded dragon ranges in size from 20 to 24 inches when fully grown. It has a beard that expands and turns black when it feels threatened, or gets excited.

Bearded Dragons owe their name to a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head to the base of the tail (giving them a dragon like appearance). Bearded Dragons can puff out the spiny protrusions under their chin when they are angry or excited, giving them the appearance of having a humanlike beard.

Bearded Dragon is the common name for any Agamid lizard in the genus Pogona. Bearded dragons have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies. The golden Bearded Dragon has quite a bit of yellow on the sides of its head and when it is very content, its body becomes a golden cream color. The golden Bearded Dragon is one of the preferred colors and is usually a little more expensive than other Beardies that are darker in color. Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, meaning they eat both insects and plants. Bearded Dragons are known to be very docile and trusting, yet at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards.

A Bearded Dragon is by far the best reptile pet for children of all ages. An average life span for a bearded dragon is eight to twelve years. Owning a Bearded Dragon is a very enjoyable experience because they are not particularly skittish and they become quite affectionate if purchased when they are young and then handled frequently. Bearded Dragons make a wonderful pet for both beginners and advanced reptile keepers.

If you decide that a Bearded Dragon is for you, it is recommended that you do your research before you buy one so that you will be able to give your Dragon the best possible care that it deserves. If properly cared for, a Bearded Dragon is a lizard that you can easily have sit on your lap or shoulder while you are watching TV and not have to worry about it running away (this applies more to an adult Beardie). Bearded Dragons do not need a partner, so having a single Beardie is quite acceptable.

Bearded Dragons need appropriate temperatures so that the food they eat will be digested properly. Like many reptiles, Bearded Dragons require UVA/UVB light as well as an appropriate heat lamp, to maintain correct basking and ambient temperatures. A popular sized enclosure for baby Bearded Dragons is 20 gallons; adults require enclosures of 40 gallons and larger, with eight square feet of floor space being preferable. Bearded Dragons need a warm area reaching 95 - 100 degrees during the day and cooling to 70 - 75 degrees over night. Keep in mind that the surface on which a bearded dragon basks, (after eating), should be maintained at a temperature between 100 and 115 degrees, in order for them to digest their food properly.

Some Bearded Dragon owners claim that a heat rock or under tank heat pad should not be used because there is a danger of the surface getting too hot and burning the lizard. Others claim that an under tank heater is fine as long as there is a carpet like material between the glass and the lizard. Similarly, a heat rock is fine provided that it remains cool enough that you can place your hand on it and hold it there for a period of time without getting burned.

Do not feed Bearded Dragons mice, anoles, or other feeder animals. Crickets should form a large part of a Bearded Dragon’s diet. Crickets should be no bigger than the gap between your Bearded Dragons eyes. Some Beardies will eat mixed vegetables and also fruit. If feeding peas or corn remove the skin before placing the vegetables in the food dish. Also remove the skin from any fruit, just feed your lizard the flesh of the fruit. Some owners also occasionally feed meal worms to their Beardie. However, there are unconfirmed rumors of meal worms chewing through a Beardies stomach, so if you feed meal worms as a treat, remove the head before feeding them to your Beardie. Any food fed to your Beardie should be dusted with a calcium compound twice a week and a Vitamin and mineral compound once a week to properly ensure that they are getting proper nutrition.

If a Bearded Dragon is fed a food item difficult to digest, and he is not provided with the proper temperatures in order for him to digest that food, this can create impaction (this is when a Bearded Dragon’s digestive tract is blocked by a solid or semisolid mass). What is generally suggested is that with the earlier stages of a mild impaction, you may be able to offer your Bearded Dragon some relief by giving him a warm bath and gently massaging his abdomen. Massaging gently down toward the vent may assist your Bearded Dragon in moving an impaction down through his digestive tract, so that he can pass it. Some owners suggest that your Beardie should have a bowel movement every day or every second day, however, some healthy Beardies confound the experts and only have a bowel movement every week or two. If you have any concerns in this regard contact your veterinarian.

In conclusion, if you would like to have a lizard as a pet, you cannot find a better one than a Bearded Dragon. They are easy to tame and look after. They can become quite affectionate if handled frequently. Unfortunately there is a lot of misinformation circulating about these lovable pets so be sure to do a lot of research to ensure that a Beardie is the pet for you.

To get you started on your research, here is a site worth visiting.

http://www.liscoon.com/dragons.html


Until next time,

Teia

Improve Your Dog's Health with Proper Grooming

You probably know the typical benefits of grooming your dog, such as removing knots and tangles in the coat. However, grooming also allows air to flow through the fur more easily, which helps the dog to cool itself during hot weather. Brushing also gives your dog's coat a nice healthy shine. However, there are many lesser known benefits to a regular grooming regime for your pet that I thought you might like to know.

It may come as a surprise to you to learn that the simple act of grooming can do much more for your pet than just improving the look of her coat. By making grooming a regular activity with your dog you'll be pleasantly surprised by the numerous health benefits that can be achieved.

Some of the many health benefits of grooming include:

1) Removing dead hair which improves the overall look of the coat as only new healthy hair is left behind. This will help prevent the dog from getting hot spots from the dead hair matted next to her skin.

2) Improving the blood flow to the follicles of each hair will improve the health of the entire coat. The lymphatic system is also stimulated by grooming, giving the same health benefits to your dog that you would get from having a massage.

3) Improving the emotional state of your pet, because of the bonding achieved whilst grooming. A gentle hand and kind voice while grooming goes a long way to building a bond with your dog and helps build trust between the two of you.

4) Having the opportunity to notice any potential health problems by becoming familiar with your dog's body. Tender areas for instance could indicate an injury of some sort which may require further investigation. It is also important to look for health dangers such as ticks which if left undetected can be deadly to your pet. It will also allow you to detect if your dog has fleas which can potentially cause all sorts of problems for you and your dog.

5) Paying attention to your dog's paws while grooming by clipping long nails and checking the pads of the feet for any sore areas that may need attention. (See previous postings on the topic of fleas).

You can find all the tools you need for effective grooming at local pet supply stores. Or, if you prefer, you can find a number of Internet locations that carry pet supplies. Just do a Google search on pet supplies or pet grooming supplies and you will have numerous sites to check out.

If you make a habit of visiting your local pet store, once you become known by the staff, you will learn all kinds of interesting things and you can frequently work out a discount for being a frequent buyer.

Most areas of the country have classes at community colleges where you can learn the correct methods of grooming your pet. Also check out dog clubs and groups where you will find other dog owners to give you some tips and advice on where to start.

If you find that you enjoy grooming and become proficient enough you may wish to start a dog grooming service in your local area. Dog grooming is in BIG demand and can be a profitable part-time/full-time business.

By putting in a little time and effort along with a few dollars for some basic grooming tools you will be greatly rewarded with a healthier, happier dog. Even if you're just starting to learn about correct grooming techniques your dog will still benefit greatly from the little time and effort involved in grooming.

Until next time,

Teia

Grooming Your Horse

Grooming is an important part of keeping your horse healthy. It involves more than just brushing its hair. By grooming you get a chance to inspect your horse up close for any injuries and it provides a good chance to bond with your horse. Also, it is very important to do this before riding your horse, as sand between the saddle and the horse's back can cause sores. So can little bits of hay, hay dust and straw. As a former member of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police who trained in 1961, my dad has hundreds of hours of interacting with horses. As well as receiving 180 hours of formalized equitation instruction, he had to spend hundreds more hours grooming, feeding, and exercise riding. In addition he spent nearly 300 days doing either morning or evening stable duty. This involved cleaning out the stalls in the morning and feeding the horses and in the evening feeding the horses and putting down fresh bedding and a bundle of hay.

To groom your horse you'll need several tools. They are a hoof pick, rubber curry comb, stiff body brush, fine finishing brush, mane and tail comb, and soft cloths. You can keep all these neatly organized in a large bucket. MAKE THE BUCKET SOFT PLASTIC. If the horse decides to kick it, you don’t want a hard bucket flying through the air. The horse could also receive a cut from a hard bucket.

Before you begin, make sure your horse is tied to a secure object and use a quick release knot in case of trouble. Don’t snub the horse too close to the tie up position, but don’t leave enough slack in the line so that the horse can turn its head far enough to bite you if you press on a ticklish spot.

Start your grooming session by lifting up each of your horse's hooves and using the hoof pick, picking out any dirt or manure that is stuck to the frog or sole of the foot. When doing this, make note of any hoof cracks and make sure, if your horse is shod, to see if the shoes are properly fitted and that all of the nails are present and tight. Alert your Farrier to any problems (a farrier is a person who shoes horses and takes care of their hooves).

Next take a curry comb to any areas of your horse's coat that are dirty. Be careful, because a curry comb can be irritating to a horse's sensitive areas and in the bony areas like the shoulders and legs.

Then with a main and tail brush remove any dirt or tangles from the main and tail. It is best to start from the top of the main or tail and work your way down. Sometimes if the hair is really tangled, you can use a grooming spray to help untangle the hair. When grooming the tail be sure to stand on the side of the horse and not directly behind to avoid being kicked. You only have to make this mistake once. If you recover enough to be able to return to riding and looking after your horse, you will NEVER stand directly behind him again. (Dad saw a 250 pound police recruit get kicked 20 feet through the air and into a brick wall. He spent several days in the hospital and was VERY careful around horses thereafter.)

Now, with a good body brush, brush your horse from head to toe. This brush will help to remove all the dirt and dandruff brought to the surface by the curry comb. Use short sweeping strokes, and try to use enough force to get the bristles all the way to the skin. Do this all over your horse's body. Just like a human’s, a horse’s stomach is ticklish, so be careful.

With a soft finishing brush, groom your entire horse to help bring out the shine in your horse's coat. A soft brush will help remove the finer dust particles not already removed by previous brushing.

Finish your horse's grooming session by using a rag and gently wipe your horse's ears and nose, inside and out. Also, you can apply hoof ointment to your horse's feet to help keep them shiny and healthy. By performing a good grooming session each time you ride your horse you are helping to keep your horse heathy and clean. (Note! The Royal Canadian Mounted Police Musical Ride horses are groomed at least once each day and sometimes they get groomed two or three times, depending on the number of shows they do in a day).

Until next time,

Teia

GPS for Pets – A Way to Find Your Pet Fast

Do you own a dog or cat that is constantly escaping or disappearing? Have you set up fences and closed windows only to stand helpless as your dog rushes through your legs and out the door when the mail person arrives? Or your cat escaped over the weekend while you were away and the neighbor came to feed her? Even if your pet stays safe when at home, you may face dangers when traveling with your pet. A friend took her cat on holidays with her. She stopped at a reststop in a bushy area. As she got out of the car, her cat leaped out and ran into the dense bush. Inspite of hours of searching and calling the cat, she could not locate it. Fortunately for her and her pet, someone else found the cat some days later and took it home. Eventually, after several weeks, the cat and our friend were reunited. Now, the cat won't even go out into the yard. It is terrified of leaving the security of the house.

Most pets love to explore and even the most conscientious owners will find certain pets - especially dogs like Beagles and other hunting breeds - that routinely seek adventure out-of-bounds. Outside and alone your pet will face the dangers of cold weather, traffic on the roads and even attack by other animals - wild or not.

Can You Protect Your Pet?

Finding them as soon as possible will reduce the threats drastically. Getting your pet home before nightfall when cars are less likely to see them, the temperature drops and wild animals can roam even in the city, is key to keeping them from harm. In our northern town, bears, wolves, foxes and coyotes regularly pass through during the night. As a result, my mom and dad do not let me and our other dogs go outside into the yard unaccompanied. Several dogs in town have been attacked in their own yards by wild animals. Most did not survive. The dog catcher's dog was able to get into his house and fight off the bear that attacked him, although he suffered some nasty claw marks on his face and the top of his head.

If you have spent too many days roaming the streets looking for your pet or suffered the heartbreak of losing a pet forever you will appreciate what GPS technology can do.

What is GPS?

GPS means 'Global Positioning System'. It is a method of tracking the position of anything from a car to a child or even your pet. The system uses surveillance methods set up by the government with satellites monitoring a tracking device worn by the person or pet.

How Do I Get the Information?

The information can be accessed by your phone, the Internet or with software you install on your personal computer. Some systems also permit data to be delivered to a cell phone with GSM (Global System for Mobile Communication).

You can set a 'safe zone' on your tracking device that will only start monitoring your pet's location if they leave the area. If they leave the zone, you will be alerted. When you are traveling, you can reset the zone boundaries.

The information itself must be tracked by attaching a transmitter to the collar of your pet. The GPS system is much more powerful than a typical tracking collar which has a limited range. However, you will have to pay for a service provider to monitor the device and relay the information to you.

If you do choose to use GPS with your pet, make sure it is part of an overall strategy to protect your pet, since the device itself will not prevent your pet from escaping or encountering harm. If your pet loves water, you will also need to be sure the device you choose is waterproof.


Until next time,

Teia

Dog Breeds - Golden Retrievers

The above picture is one of "Emma" wearing her Winter boots.

The fourth most favorite dog in the United States, the Golden Retriever has won the hearts of tens of thousands of families. If you have ever dealt with a Golden Retriever, it's really no surprise.

They have a sweet and obedient nature, high intelligence and extremely good looks. They are eager to please and have a friendly disposition. A Golden Retriever is a great addition to any family. Before you get one, however, you may want to consider the following.

Owning any dog requires some basic commitments and owning a Golden Retriever is no different. First, are you ready for a dog? Will you let the dog be a part of the family, or are you planning to just leave it outside alone all the time?

Golden Retrievers want and need to be with people. They want to be a part of the family. They are very unhappy if left outside away from family members and could get into trouble by chewing on patio furniture or your $100 sapling, or digging holes. So be sure you will have the dog inside with you.

Second, having any dog can be trying at times, especially a larger dog. Their bark is louder, they eat more and they take up more space. If you have a tiny apartment, you might want to consider a smaller dog.

Third, Golden Retrievers require more attention and care than many of the other breeds. Their beautiful coat needs to be brushed at least twice a week.

Being an athletic dog bred for hunting, they need daily exercise and lots of it. Be sure you have the time to devote to playing with your dog and taking him or her for daily walks. A neigbour has a Golden Retriever called "Emma". He walks her at least twice a day and at least once a week he takes her out into the country for a really long walk. Walks are taken in all kinds of weather. If it is very cold, "Emma" wears lined leather booties to protect her feet from freezing.

Their high intelligence requires daily mental exercise. If not provided with enough physical or mental exercise, they can exhibit behavior problems.

Fourth, Goldens are prone to several health problems such as hip dysplasia and skin problems. Be prepared to deal with skin allergies that can develop into "hot spots." Itching, due to fleabites and allergic reactions, causes these hot spots.

There are dog foods you can get that minimize itching and allergic reactions. When shopping for a suitable dog food be sure it does not contain either wheat or corn, two ingredients which many Golden Retrievers are sensitive to. A diet high in meat protein is best, although you will find that these foods are often the most expensive.

Fifth, poorly bred Golden Retrievers could be overly exuberant and boisterous. Look for a good breeder that is not breeding just for money, or find a local Golden Retriever rescue group. They will be able to provide you with a Golden that is easy to please and enjoys learning, characteristics you expect from this breed.

These considerations are a small price to pay for the love and companionship that a Golden Retriever will give you and your family.

Until next time,

Teia

Fleas - An Irritation at Best and Major Problem at Worst

The pictures to the left show a cat flea (enlarged for ease of viewing)and flea dirt in hair combed from a cat.

In my last entry I discussed “Flea Allergy Dermatitis in Cats.” I got thinking about it and decided that I needed to discuss the pests themselves, not just the effect they have on cats with an allergy to their bite. This posting covers these pests themselves. My dad remembers, when he was a child growing up on Vancouver Island, that from time to time they had an infestation of these ravenous little blood suckers. His mother would make a mixture of paste floor wax and kerosene and wax the wood floors with this mixture. Then she would wash the bedding and sprinkle flea powder on the dog and cats. That would put an end to it for several weeks and then she would have to repeat the process. I’m not sure if it is the climate there, or some other factor, but massive outbreaks of fleas still occur from time to time on the Island. During these periods, the veterinarians are overworked and so are the pest control companies. Now that you have a little history into dad's experience with these little fiends, I will get on with today’s posting.

Fleas are tiny, almost invisible, insects and something that most people never even think about, until they, or their pets, become infected. People then realize that fleas are a major problem and then they will take whatever measures are available to eliminate them.

Fleas are an irritation at best and a major problem at worst, not just to the family pets but to the family as well. The most common symptom of a flea infestation is itching. This comes from several sources. Firstly, fleas just itch when they crawl around on skin because it is very irritating. But worse than this is that fleas bite their host . . . and this can include you! They bite to feed on the blood of the host and the bite causes irritation, itching and scratching.

However, the health effects of fleas can be worse than just the associated itching. Fleas can cause and transmit a range of medical conditions in animals and humans.

Dermatitis caused by fleas is responsible for more than half of all pet skin complaints treated by veterinarians. This can result from excessive scratching or from an allergy to the flea bites, which can be caused by as little as one bite, in a particularly sensitive individual. And the dermatitis can become more serious leading in some cases to secondary infection.

Fleas can carry worms from one host to another. Cat fleas, for example can carry and transmit dog tapeworms. This is generally not a problem for people, but can certainly be a problem for pets.

And because fleas feed on blood, they can transmit diseases from one host to another whenever there are blood borne diseases. Many years ago, it was fleas, not rats, that carried the plague which decimated much of Europe. The fleas were responsible for transmitting the disease from host to host. Even today fleas can transmit the plague in some remote villages in Africa, although this does not generally occur elsewhere.

Fleas therefore, are not something to be ignored if your pet is infected. In the warm months it is particularly easy for a wandering pet to pick up fleas very quickly and it is important to be aware of this possibility.

So what do you do if your pet is scratching and appears unusually irritated? Firstly, suspect fleas and then inspect your pet.

How do you determine if there are fleas present? They can be seen on your pet if you comb through the fur. Fleas are fast moving so make sure to look closely.

Check where your animal sleeps. Pets with fleas usually infest their bedding (or yours if this is where they sleep).

Be vigilant and keep note of any places where fleas are found as these are the places which will need to be treated to remove the fleas.

And how do you find out if you have fleas in the house? You'll see or feel them. If you find a flea on your person, chances are you've probably got fleas in the house.

A simple trick for detecting fleas is to walk around any suspect areas in your house with white socks over your shoes. Then check the socks for fleas which will show up as dark brown dots on the white socks. They will probably still be alive, so don't let them jump onto you. Fleas are tremendous jumpers. Apparently they can jump 200 times their body length which means that they can jump from 20 to 30 inches.

Alternatively you can put a shallow dish of water in the suspect area on the floor. Suspend a light bulb (taking proper safety precautions) about 6 inches above the water and leave the light on at night. Try putting a few drops of dishwashing detergent in the water to break the surface tension. Fleas are attracted to the light and some will fall into the water and drown. So, if you find fleas in the water the next morning, you've got fleas!

The moral of this story - if you have fleas, don't ignore them. The problem isn't likely to go away on its own. Do something about it as soon as possible and save yourself and your pets from a miserably itchy time.

Until next time,

Teia

Flea Allergy Dermatitis in Cats

Fleas are by far the most common external parasites cat owners may have to deal with. Fleas are not only extremely annoying to your cat, causing discomfort and irritation, they can also cause anemia in heavily infested kittens, pass on tapeworms (Dypilidium caninum) and trigger severe allergic skin reactions in hypersensitive animals.

Feline flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) or hypersensitivity to flea saliva is on the top of the list of skin disorders seen in veterinary clinics. Cat owners are often taken by surprise when their cat is diagnosed with FAD.

"But he hasn't got any fleas!"

In allergic cats, a single fleabite can cause a hypersensitivity reaction that can persist for many days or weeks! So it's common for a cat with a flea allergy to be free of fleas at the time of examination - fleas can be long gone or there may be just one or two running around and to find them in all that fur is not an easy task!

CLINICAL SIGNS of FAD

FAD can result in a variety of skin lesions. In animals with a low degree of hypersensitivity mild skin irritation and scratching may be the only visible symptoms. Others will typically have 'miliary dermatitis', also known as feline eczema with scabs and multiple small crusty bumps (papules) with inflamed skin underneath.

These lesions are usually located at the rear end of the body, especially on the back and around the base of the tail. They can be extremely itchy and distressing for the cat. Many times hair loss can be seen with hairs typically broken off by licking. Constant licking, scratching and nibbling leads to secondary skin irritation and self-mutilation.

In some cases, a flea allergy can present as one or two raised raw, red linear or circular lesions referred to as eosinophilic plaque or granuloma.

TREATMENT

1. If your cat shows any signs of skin problems, have him checked over by your veterinarian. There are number of diseases which can have very similar clinical manifestations, for example food allergy, atopic dermatitis and some auto-immune disorders.

If the skin inflammation and self-trauma are severe, your vet may need to treat the cat with anti-inflammatory drugs (usually corticosteroids) to stop irritation and prevent further skin damage.

2. Treat your cat PLUS all in-contact pets with an insecticidal product which kills adult fleas and preferably also has a residual action (stays on the body for a longer period killing any new fleas jumping on the animal). New generation insecticides such as Frontline (fipronil), Stronghold (selamectin) and Advantage (imidacloprid) are safe, efficient and easy to apply. Older products containing pyrethroids are less suitable for cats due to their potential toxicity.

Cats with a flea allergy should be treated at regular intervals, usually once a month to prevent any new fleabites. This is especially important if your cat or any other in-contact pets have access to the outdoor environment.

3. Equally important is to treat your house. Flea products applied on pets will only kill the adult fleas, not the eggs. Eggs fall on your carpets and hatch out into new fleas if the conditions are favorable - this can take anywhere from 16 days to more than a year!

If you decide to treat your house yourself, you can purchase a product for environmental flea control from pet shops, supermarkets or veterinarians. You could also hire a professional service to do the house treatment for you. Although more costly, it saves you the hassle and the effects last longer.

NEVER use the house spray on your cat!

4. As a first aid to relieve itchy and dry skin, you can use topical remedies such as soothing Aloe Vera gel, anti-inflammatory Calendula ointment or Tea Tree oil. However, cats have a tendency to lick it off their skin almost right away. Putting a lampshade or 'Elizabethan' collar on your cat can prevent this. He may not like it but the collar will also stop him from 'chewing' and further damaging his skin.

5. Give your cat a worming treatment such as Drontal, which contains praziquantel, because it is very effective against tapeworms.

It is advisable to treat your cat with a suitable insecticidal flea product at regular intervals even if you don't see any creatures on him. In this way, you can prevent many potential problems fleas may cause.

Until next time,

Teia

Fish Ponds in Small Yards

In recent years, one of the most common backyard design ideas has been adding a fishpond to the yard. This can usually only be accomplished in those yards that are large and sprawling or that have some sort of walkway. However, if you are really adamant about having your own fishpond and you have a small yard, here are a few design ideas that you can use to add it, without having it dominate your yard.

One suggestion would be to place a very small pond, either in the middle of the yard so it can serve as a focal point, or over in the corner of the yard so it seems like a surprise to people who are walking around. In the corner design idea, you would want to raise the pond a little bit so the fish are out of view, or disguise the pond behind a screen of plants or ornamental grass. In the center-yard design idea, you can incorporate the fishpond at ground level or a little above, whichever you prefer.

Remember that the main focus of a fishpond in your yard is to have something lively and colorful that you can watch peacefully swimming around every day. But, keep in mind that large fish, such as the Japanese Koi that often populate fishponds these days, can be extremely expensive if they are bought fully grown. If you purchase small Koi, they are much cheaper. Of course, you can also purchase goldfish from a pet store but they will take a few years to grow into sizable fish. When mom and dad lived Regina, Saskatchewan, they had an eleven foot by seven foot pond and they put goldfish in it. They purchased two inch long feeder goldfish for fifty cents each and put them in the pond. Each fall they removed them because of the freezing winter temperatures and kept them in a 240-gallon fish tank in the basement. By the time these fish were four years old, they were between eight and twelve inches long, about the maximum size for goldfish. If your pond is small, goldfish are recommended, so the fish don’t look out of proportion to the size of your pond. If your pond is more than twelve feet by six feet, you may consider Koi. Just remember that Koi can grow up to three feet long, so you want to keep that in mind when determining the type of fish to put in your pond.

When considering putting a pond in your yard, you have to think about the amount of work it is keeping it clean and well maintained. You need to weigh how much you really want the fishpond and how important it is in your overall backyard design before you go ahead and start building it. You might find that you would rather have a small, more manageable tank in your home that you can check on each day.

Another consideration before incorporating a fishpond as a backyard design is the climate of your location. Most would only add a fish pond if they had access to warm weather all year round, and there really aren't many places that can accommodate that. If you are really sure that you want this type of backyard design, you can always have an indoor tank and an outdoor pond and transfer the fish when the weather allows. This, however, limits the type and size of fish you can put in your pond. In addition, you have to consider predators. In some locations eagles, hawks, seagulls, cats, racoons, etc. have to be prevented from ‘fishing’ in your pond. Dad's cousin, Bill, who lives in Surrey, British Columbia, has to keep netting over his Koi ponds to keep the predators out. His ponds are about twenty by forty feet and about ten to fifteen feet deep. At this size, and in that climate, they never freeze to the bottom, so he can leave his fish in the ponds year-round.

Having a fishpond is a testament about how much time and energy you are willing to devote to this aspect of your backyard. In effect, it's a great idea that is just difficult to bring to fruition. However, with a lot of work you can bring it to life and many people will be impressed when they find that their friends have a fishpond in their yard. It brings a luxurious feeling to the yard and makes others feel like they are in the presence of someone who really cares about their yard.

You must also consider the surroundings when you are getting ready to incorporate the design of a fishpond into your yard. Indeed, if the surroundings look bad, then you cannot hope to have the yard fit together. With something as affluent as a fishpond in your yard, you need to make sure that the surrounding design is aligned with the pond. So include some luxurious hanging plants and some very nice flowering bushes. This will generate an overall comforting and enchanting ambiance that anyone would be thrilled to have.

There are numerous websites on the Internet that specialize in backyard fishponds. You can find companies that will build a pond for you and companies that will sell you premade ponds that you can set up as above ground ponds or ponds you bury in the ground. Many nurseries, pet stores and building supply stores also carry supplies that will allow you to build a pond in your backyard.

As with anything, if you are really motivated to get your fishpond to work in your yard, you can probably do it successfully. But remember, don't just dive in without consulting with family and friends and perhaps even some professionals before you begin. Also, remember to take your worst case scenario about the amount of work and cost associated with a pond, triple it and you will still be low. I don’t want to scare you from considering a fishpond, but you will find it more costly to maintain than a backyard swimming pool. A water garden, without the fish, is a much cheaper alternative and just as attractive. Also, the maintenance on a water garden is minimal. Having been through the backyard fishpond phase, mom and dad would not consider it again in this northern climate. We do have a small pond in our backyard, but with no fish in it, maintenance is almost non existent and that is a good thing because it leaves mom and dad with more time to spend with me.

Until next time,

Teia

Feline Heartworm Disease

Cats are very different from dogs when it comes to heartworm disease. Not only do they differ in their susceptibility to the disease, but also in how the disease affects them and how the disease is diagnosed.

There are significant differences between feline heartworm disease and canine heartworm disease. Cats are more resistant to the disease, and typically when they do become infected they have a smaller burden of worms in their bodies. But due to their smaller size, even a few worms can be considered a heavy infection for a cat. Even one worm can cause illness or death in a cat.

Heartworms are caused by a parasite called Dirofilaria immitis. Cats and dogs become infected with this parasite through the bite of an infected mosquito. When an infected mosquito bites the cat, the parasite enters the bloodstream of the cat and grows into an adult worm several centimeters long. These worms tend to accumulate around the vessels of the heart and lungs and cause inflammation of these vessels. In severe cases, they can cause a thromboembolism which results in an acute death.

Since heartworm disease in cats happens less often than in dogs, cats with heartworm disease are often misdiagnosed. Cats with heartworms are often wrongly diagnosed as having asthma or allergic bronchitis. Also, many cats can have heartworms and not appear ill at all.

The true percentage of heartworm positive cats is hard to determine due to diagnostic limitations. In dogs an antigen test is the "gold standard" in diagnosing heartworm disease and it is a very accurate test. Unfortunately in cats these tests are not as accurate. In cats, several tests must be used together to arrive at an accurate diagnosis. These tests can include serology, x-rays and echocardiographs.

Cats that are positive for heartworm disease have many treatment options, but they all have risk associated with them. In mild cases an anti-inflammatory like prednisone may be used. This drug helps support cats by reducing the inflammation of affected vessels. For cats showing severe clinical signs, more extensive treatment and hospitalization are needed. Surgery is also an option to physically remove any worms.

There are many medications on the market to help prevent your cat from getting heartworm disease. Talk to your veterinarian before purchasing heartworm medication as she/he can recommend the most effective one for your area. Monthly preventatives are an option for cats living in areas where heartworm disease is endemic. Even indoor cats may be at risk if windows are left open. Year-round preventatives are increasingly being recommended by more veterinarians. Kittens as young as eight weeks can be started on preventatives.

The most common products used for cats include Interceptor, Heartgard, and Revolution. Interceptor and Heartgard are given orally as chewable medication. Revolution is a topical medication that is applied to the hair over the shoulders. At a minimum, the medication should be started within 30 days of heartworm transmission season and continued until at least 30 days after it ends. In most places this means starting the medication in early Spring and continuing until the end of Fall.

If you live in an endemic area of heartworm disease, be sure to keep your cat on preventatives for the entire year. Talking to your veterinarian is the best source of advice about the prevalence of heartworm in your area.

Until next time,

Teia

Feeding Your New Horse

After paying stabling fees for your horse, feeding him is probably your next greatest cost. It is important to feed a balanced ration to keep your horse healthy and happy. Many companies try to sell fancy supplements, but it all comes down to the basics.

Horses are hind gut fermenters, meaning their basic need is for forages. Forages are provided to horses in the form of hay. As a general guideline, horses should be fed one to two pounds of hay for every 100 pounds of body weight. This amount can vary greatly depending on the activity level of your horse. The hay should be of high quality, free of mold and other debris. If your horse is involved in sporting events such as barrel racing, harness racing, steeplechase or flat track racing, you may want to feed a high protein supplement, but before doing so, check with your veterinarian.

Pastures can be another source of forage for your horse. A high quality pasture could provide for almost all of your horse's nutritional needs. About one to two acres of pasture is required for each horse.

Additional grain is necessary for growing horses and horses who exercise or perform, as stated above. Grain is usually provided in the form of crushed oats or corn with molasses. Grain is usually fed twice daily. The amount of grain should be carefully regulated so you don't upset the digestive tract of your horse. This is particularly important if your horse has not been eating a grain diet for a while. For example if your horse was in a pasture for the summer and is now being moved into the stables for the winter be careful about the amount of grain you feed him. A call to a veterinarian that is familiar with your horse should elicit the information you need.

Nutritional supplements can be offered in the form of free choice mineral blocks and salt blocks placed in the stall or pasture. Many companies try to sell fancy supplements for horses. The majority of these are not necessary and are a waste of money. Most horses can receive all the nutrition they need through a high quality forage diet. If in doubt, consult your veterinarian.

As with all animals, horses require access to fresh clean water at all times. The source of water should not be next to the hay feeder or it could become full of hay, which would prevent your horse from gaining access to the drinking water.

Some horses can have certain medical problems and need to be fed in a certain way. Also, some horses have allergies, similar to people, to hay or dust. These horses cannot have hay or be exposed to dust. So to provide forage to these horses, they need to eat fresh grass. Other horses may suffer from colic when given grain or other treats. These horses should be kept on a strict diet of forages.

By taking the time to provide your horse with a nutritious diet, you are ensuring that he will have a healthy life. Also, by providing a complete diet, you will save money by having fewer medical and veterinary bills.

Until next time,

Teia

Ear Infections in Dogs

Yes it's a picture of me, and yes, it's bigger than all the other blog pictures. But hey, what's the point of having your own blog if you can't use it to show how pretty you are?

Ear infections are something that I am familiar with as I have a lot of problems with my ears. Because mom and dad check them regularly, I don't have near as many infections as I used to have, thank goodness. They're pretty painful and they make you feel yucky.

Dog ear infections are also commonly called Otitis Externa. It is an infection of the outer ear canal. There are three parts to the ear, the outer, the middle, and the inner ear. Ninety percent of infections occur in the outer ear, the part of the ear that you can see.

Dogs are prone to ear infections because of the anatomy of their ears. They have a horizontal and a vertical component to them, so it is hard for anything in there to drain out, like water, ear wax or bits of debris.

Signs of an ear infection include excessive head shaking, whining and scratching at the ear(s), yellow to dark brown exudate in the ears, or a yeast like smell. Additional signs of ear infections include redness and swelling.

There are several causes of ear infections. The most common causes of ear infections are allergies. Some dogs are more prone to allergies than others. Therefore, they get more ear infections.

Another common cause is sporting dogs that swim. Also included here is over enthusiastic baths. In each of these cases, the dogs get water inside their ears and because of their anatomy, the water in the ears cannot drain out. This provides the perfect environment for bacteria and yeast to grow. It is recommenced that if you let your dog play in the water, you dry your dog's ears thoroughly afterward. Similarly, after a bath, you should check the inside of your dog's ears for moisture. If you detect any, thoroughly dry the inside of the ear.

If your dog does have an ear infection, it is important to properly clean your dog's ears before applying any medication.

To clean your dog's ears, start by placing a few drops of an ear cleanser, available at veterinarian's offices and most pet stores, into the ear and massage the ear to help loosen any debris that is in there. Then use a cloth, cotton swab, or cotton gauze to wipe the dirt out. (Use of Q-tips is not recommended as you could pack the wax or debris more tightly into the ear with them)

After your dog's ears are thoroughly clean, then you can apply your medication. Follow your veterinarian's advice about how much medication to apply to the ear, usually one or more drops.

The treatment your veterinarian will prescribe will vary depending on the cause of the ear infection. For yeast infections they prescribe an antifungal medication and for bacterial infections they will prescribe an antibiotic. Normally treatment is applied directly into the ears, but in severe cases systemic treatment may be needed. This usually means you have to give your dog pills orally.

In some dogs with severe ear problems, the veterinarian will usually clip the hair around the ear to help let more air into the ear. In extreme cases your veterinarian may recommend surgery to reconstruct the ear canal to let it drain more easily.

Dogs that are prone to ear infections include all breeds with large ears that flop over the ear canal and breeds of dogs that have a very small ear canal. By knowing what to look for, you can detect ear infections early when treatment is easier, less painful for your dog and less expensive for you.

Until next time,

Teia

Fat Pet?

People aren't the only ones who have a problem with weight control. Many of our pets, almost 25 per cent, are overweight, with many of these medically considered as obese. Why is this happening? Are our pets also becoming victims of the electronic age?

As we become more prone to using short cuts in everyday life with remote controls, microwaves, dishwashers, etc. . . . one would assume that we would have more time for the simple pleasures in life, such as walking the dog. But no, that does not appear to be the case.

Even though we are managing to do these tasks in a much quicker time frame, we are just as quickly finding new things to fill the extra time. Yes, the advances in technology have provided faster ways of doing things, but technology has also created many more things to do. We now spend a lot of time indoors, especially in front of a monitor. Whether it is a computer monitor, a texting device, or a television monitor, many hours are spent staring at a screen.

We seem to no longer find enjoyment in many aspects of our lives. We are always reaching for that higher level, for more money, for a better job, for a more prestigious lifestyle. And in the process we also spend less time with our pets. This has resulted in an increase in pet obesity. As many people down size their homes, they move closer to city areas, mostly into townhouses and apartments. This means they have less room in the new backyard for their pets, if they even have a backyard at all.

Being overweight can drastically decrease the life span of your pet. Your overweight pet can become an unhealthy pet and ultimately an unhappy one as well. Obesity can lead to many different diseases, including diabetes, arthritis, heart complications, endocrinal diseases and bad joints.

As we feed our pets more convenient, over processed pet foods and spend less time exercising them, we actually put their lives at risk, without even realizing it. Some pet owners may even overfeed their pets to try to compensate for their lack of involvement in their pet's lives.

Take your pet to your local veterinarian if you suspect that it may be overweight. The veterinarian will be able to tell you if your pet is not getting enough exercise or is being fed the wrong type or amount of food.

Lastly, take some time out of your busy schedule and spend it with your pet, it will love you for it. Remember, a pet is a friend for life, so look after it.

Until next time,

Teia

Hot Weather Protection for Your Dog

Sunny summer days seem to incite all sorts of fun activities with your dog: from playing fetch in the park to frisbee on the beach. Unfortunately, as temperatures soar, the hot weather also brings with it some very specific hazards such as sunburn, heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Good news, these threats to your pooch are PREVENTABLE.

Protecting Your Dog from Sunburn.

Just like humans, dogs can be burned by the sun, especially the nose, tips of the ears and around the lip area. Common sense dictates that you keep your dog in the shade during the hours when the sun's rays are most intense - usually between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. However, if you need to be outside during these times, it's okay to apply sun-block to your dog's nose and the exposed skin on the ears. It's a little risky to apply sun-block around the lips so instead just keep a close watch and make sure that the area doesn't get too pink. If you notice that any portion of your dog's skin is reddened or blistered, contact your veterinarian right away.

Protecting Your Dog from Heat Exhaustion or Heat Stroke.

Leaving a dog in a parked car during summer weather is something that you should never do. The temperature inside a parked car can reach one and one-half to two times the temperature outside the car. Leaving your dog in your parked car on a warm day is the leading cause of heat stroke, and it frequently leads to the death of your dog. Dogs can also suffer heat exhaustion or heat stroke if they exercise too heavily on a hot, humid day or, if they live outdoors and don't have shelter from the sun. Dogs are also susceptible if they are overweight or suffer from lung or heart ailments. Older dogs are less tolerant of heat and may succumb to heat strokes more readily than younger dogs.

In many jurisdictions, it is against the law to leave your dog unattended in your car during hot weather or very cold weather. Due to the large number of dogs that die of heat stroke from being left unattended in a vehicle, the courts frequently assess large fines, jail time or both.

A few simple actions on your part can help protect your dog from heat exhaustion and heat stroke:

Don't take your dog with you on errands if you need to leave her in the car. However, if you're traveling with your dog and must make a stop, even for the shortest period of time, consider leaving the air conditioner on.

If you're accustomed to taking your dog with you when power-walking, jogging or cycling, don't push her on exceptionally hot days. If she falls behind, let her take a break. Or, better yet, switch your time to either later in the evening when the heat of the day is past, or earlier in the day before the heat has had a chance to build up.

For dogs who live outside, make sure to provide "all-day shade" such as a ventilated doghouse, large beach umbrella or overhang that will remain shaded even when the sun shifts throughout the day.

Keep older dogs and those with lung or heart conditions inside your home on hot days. If you don't have air conditioning, keep a fan running.

Avoid any situations that force your dog to stand on sun baked surfaces such as cement sidewalks, a truck bed or beach sand. The extreme heat can cause blisters on her pads (if your dog gets blisters on her pads, get her to a veterinarian as soon as possible). If you simply must walk your dog in the heat of the day, tread on grassy areas as much as possible.

Water, Water, Water!

And last but not least . . . like you, your dog needs to hydrate frequently so be sure to provide unlimited access to cool, clean, refreshing drinking water.

Until next time,

Teia

Cat Breeds - The Egyptian Mau

The Egyptian Mau is a striking cat with gooseberry green eyes. This cat is the only domestic cat that is naturally spotted and it has spots that vary in size on both sides of the body.

This breed originated in Egypt and, in fact, the word Mau is Egyptian for "cat.” Seen in Temple paintings that date back to 1400 B.C., this cat’s muscular physique is a tribute to its ancestors who hunted along the Nile River. One can almost picture this cat looking like a miniature cheetah stalking its prey in the grass. The Egyptian Mau was first imported into the U.S. in 1953.

A reserved breed, the Egyptian Mau can be somewhat aloof with strangers. Some of these cats love to be handled, while others hate it. This trait mostly depends on which bloodline your cat came from. The Egyption Mau is a quiet cat that has a low-pitched, melodious voice.

A medium-sized cat, the Egyptian Mau has a wedge-shaped head. The ears are sometimes tufted, and usually stand upright. The cat has almond-shaped eyes,and as previously mentioned, they are gooseberry green in color. Their coat is fine and silky. The body is well balanced, with the hind legs being longer than the front.

The Egyptian Mau comes in smoke, silver or bronze colors and is characterized by distinctive spots. The nose and paws are colored according to the coat color. The forehead has frown lines and what looks like the letter M. The lines continue over the head and back of the neck and then turn to spots along the back. The tail is ringed and has a dark tip. Mascara like lines highlight the eyes.

The Egyptian Mau has an average of four kittens in a litter. The kittens are spotted at birth with the exception of those that are smoke colored. The kittens have an interesting eye color that is green when they are happy, but they turn amber when the kitten is disturbed. Once they are about two years of age the eye color stabilizes to green.

This is a fairly hardy breed of cat with no genealogical health problems associated with it. Grooming consists of routine brushing and bathing as needed. Feed your Egyptian Mau a balanced diet, the same way you would any cat.

Most Egyptian Maus make great pets. You really need to choose your breeder well. Make sure you get a cat from a good breeding line. Some lines can be unpredictable and excitable. Most of this breed are affectionate to their family and love children, but can be wary of strangers.

Until next time,

Teia

Inappropriate Urination by Cats

Inappropriate urination, or urinating in unacceptable places, can be one of the most frustrating feline behavioral problems that any cat owner may have to deal with. However, by understanding the reasons behind this behavior and by utilizing retraining techniques and/or medical therapy, most cases of inappropriate urination can be resolved.

There are two types of inappropriate urination: house soiling and urine spraying. Behavior associated with house soiling is similar to normal urination. The cat will rake the ground, squat, and then will release a normal puddle on a horizontal surface, usually on furnishings such as carpets, rugs or other soft materials. On the other hand, urine spraying is a territorial or sexual behavior that has nothing to do with the physiological need for urination. The spraying cat typically stands with its tail fully erect and squirts a small amount of urine against a vertical surface such as the wall or the front of a piece of furniture.

In all cases of inappropriate urination you should have the cat examined by your veterinarian as an underlying medical problem may be the cause of the urination problem. If this is the case, then the medical condition must be remedied before attempting other solutions. Cats with conditions leading to pain during urination will tend to avoid the litter box because they associate it with pain. The most commonly seen cause of painful urination is cystitis (inflammation of the bladder). For older cats suffering from arthritis, it can be painful to get into the litter box and to squat (for this particular situation a shallower litter box is recommended). Renal and endocrine disorders, like diabetes and hyperthyroidism, can lead to excessive water intake and increased urine formation, thus the cat may not be able to make it to the litter box in time.

In the vast majority of cases, inappropriate urination can be resolved if the primary cause can be found.

HOUSE SOILING

If no evidence of an underlying disease is found, then your cat may simply dislike something about the litter box itself. For example, it may take aversion to the location of the box. The litter box ideally should be placed in an easily accessible and quiet spot, a distance away from the feeding and playing area. It should also enable the cat to have a wide viewpoint so that it has the opportunity to see what's going on in the room (cats need to know that nothing is going to sneak up on them when they are in the vulnerable position of urinating).

Cats can often be put off by the texture or scent of the litter and most do not like a dirty and smelly litter box. You need to consider whether your cat's behavior started after a change in the brand of the litter. Experiment with different types of litter in order to check your cat's preference and take care not to overfill the box. It is also important to clean the box daily and wash it in a mild detergent at least once a week. You will need to rinse it well to ensure that all residual smells and remnants of detergent are removed. If you have more than one cat, make sure that each cat has its own litter box and it is a good idea to provide one extra box as a precaution against accidents or territorial disputes.

Regarding the type and size of the box, most cats prefer a large uncovered box that is easy to get into and out of.

Another important cause of house soiling may be related to anxiety or stress. Cats are creatures of habit and any disruption to the routine or change within the household can adversely affect them. Moving to a new house or remodeling or refurnishing your house, the arrival of a new child, competition between cats in a multi cat household and separation from the owner are just a few examples of changes that could lead your cat to start house soiling.

The treatment of choice for anxiety-related house soiling will usually consist of reducing and eliminating the stress where possible, and/or behavioral modification therapy. Evidence suggests that spraying the house with Feliway, a synthetic equivalent of feline facial pheromones, induces a feeling of well being and calmness in cats. This method has proved to be efficient in decreasing or eliminating inappropriate urination in 30% to 60% of cases.

Pharmacological therapy may have a number of potential side effects and thus should be reserved for severe cases that do not respond to behavior modification techniques or environmental strategies. Several drugs have been proven effective in the treatment of anxiety in cats. Clomicalm (clomipramine) is commonly used for separation anxiety in single cat households and BuSpar (buspirone) tends to be more effective in multi cat households.

URINE SPRAYING

If your cat is busy with urine marking or spraying, instead of finding puddles on the floor, you may see some remnants of urine on walls, doors, furniture or other objects. However, most noticeable will be the offending smell of your cat's 'perfume'.

You may find yourself asking why is it doing this? Leaving tiny but smelly messages is a means of communicating with other cats. Your cat is simply saying 'this is my territory' or 'hey, I'd like to offer my sexual services' or 'this item is mine'. Any cat can start to communicate this way, although tomcats are the biggest offenders. Queens, especially when in heat, are more likely to spray than spayed females and the chance of spraying in multi cat households is proportionally higher than in a single cat household, irrespective of gender. In households where there are 10 or more cats, there will be at least one cat and probably more that will start spraying.

Since urine marking is largely hormonally induced, neutering will eliminate this behavior in 80% to 95% of cases. However, don't expect instant results, as it may take up to two months before you start seeing any improvement. If your cat continues spraying after this period, then there may be another cause for the need to mark. For example, there may be a 'bully' cat in your neighborhood or other cats may be coming into your home through the cat flap. A new person or stranger in your house can also make your cat feel unsafe and insecure so it may feel the need to 'reinforce' its 'territory'. In multi cat households, competition and territorial disputes between resident cats are a common cause of spraying.

SOLUTIONS

If you haven't done so already get your cat neutered as soon as possible. Kittens can be neutered at any time from six months onwards. Many towns and cities have programs to assist owners who cannot afford the cost of spaying or neutering their cat.

Clean urine spots thoroughly. You can use white vinegar diluted with water (1:1) or commercially available enzymatic cleaners and odor neutralizers which are available in most pet stores and some grocery stores.

Provide each cat with their own litter box plus provide at least one extra for emergencies. Keep litter boxes clean! If they get overly full or smelly, your cats will not use them.

Try to identify the reason why your cat sprays. If for example a new person has moved into the house, have him or her feed your cat to establish a bond between them.

Play with your cat in areas where it tends to spray. This will cause it consider that spot as a fun place, so it may stop marking that area.

If your cat sprays in only one room prevent access to that room. If spraying occurs in one or two specific areas and it is not possible to keep the cat out of these areas, put a litter box or feeding bowls there. Most cats will not urinate near their food.

If there is conflict between your cats, you may need to isolate them, or at least the one which is spraying.

Spray Feliway in all areas where your cat marks after you have thoroughly cleaned the area.

Do not use household cleaning products containing ammonia for cleaning soiled patches - it could stimulate the marking behavior as urine also contains ammonia.

Do not punish the cat by dragging it to its litter box or sticking its nose in excrement and never hit it or kick it! In fact, doing this can make things much worse. Your cat will then associate punishment with you and may become timid and distrustful of you. You will make it feel unsafe in the house and this will consequently lead to even more spraying. If you catch your cat doing the deed, you can try to deter it by making a harsh noise or spraying water from a water pistol or plant mister, but in most cases this will not deter the cat from spraying in the future.

In conclusion, you should always keep in mind the fact that the act of inappropriate urination by your cat does not mean that it wants to upset you. There is always an underlying reason for its behavior that can be related to either physiological or psychological disturbances, or to a normal and natural behavior. If you are unable to resolve the problem, do not hesitate to seek advice from your veterinarian. Usually, your vet will examine urine samples for the presence of blood, sugar, crystals or signs of infection. Possibly, your vet will take some blood samples if there is any indication of renal or hormonal problems, or diabetes. If your cat is in good health, your vet will be able to discuss the most appropriate behavior modification therapy and prescribe any medication if needed.

Until next time,

Teia

Natural Health Solutions for Your Cat

In the best of all possible worlds, veterinarians would all be versed in naturopathic as well as conventional treatment modalities. However, just like human doctors, many veterinarians are trained in conventional treatment methods only. I don’t know about other countries, but in Canada, a lot of the medications used to treat animals are human medications. It has only been the last ten years or so where pharmaceutical companies have found that it is profitable enough to develop medications for animals. Here, a large percentage of medications supplied by veterinarians are human medications which present their own problems when applied to the anatomical differences between humans and animals. This is probably one of the reasons that pet owners are turning to other treatment methods for their beloved companions. Always remember that if there are any doubts about the health of your pet or about a treatment method, consult your veterinarian. If they don’t know, they have access to information sources that others do not. You should be able to discuss any pet related issue with your veterinarian, so don’t be shy about discussing natural remedies like those mentioned in this posting. If more people ask about natural remedies, veterinarians will become more familiar with them. As an issue of “Whole Dog Journal, ” stated, more veterinarians are using holistic methods in their practices because more clients are demanding alternative solutions. This posting will cover alternative treatments for cats.

Cat lovers the world over are turning more toward natural herbal remedies and nutritional supplements for common everyday health ailments affecting their feline family members.

A natural approach to your cat's health concerns is a viable adjunct to any conventional veterinarian approach. And the use of herbs and dietary supplementation can benefit your cat in many ways where a more conventional approach, with associated risks and side effects, might not.

While obviously having many anatomical differences and specific health concerns, many of the herbs that could be prescribed for a human can also be prescribed for cats and animals in general, because they are natural in their origin. Drugs, on the other hand are created in a laboratory.

Most common herbal supplements are taken as liquid or powder that can easily be added to your cat's food or water. Dosages are relatively small so usually little resistance is encountered when administering a remedy or supplement.

What follows are a few of the more common conditions that can affect your cat that are easily treated at home with natural remedies. But as I always say, if symptoms persist please see your veterinarian.

Flea allergies are a common complaint for cats. Cats with this specific allergy have a problem dealing with the saliva from the flea’s bite. A single bite from a flea can create an allergic reaction in your cat that can last for many days if not weeks.

Itching is the obvious issue here, with hair loss from scratching being a very common secondary problem. The conventional approach offers flea rinses and shampoos as well as internal medication. Sometimes in severe cases, a prescription medication is needed. As with any prescription medication, sometimes toxicity or side effects can be an issue, so ensure that your veterinarian tells you what could happen and how to best deal with it.

There is a lot that can be done naturally before things get to this point.

Topically, you can apply Tea Tree oil to the site of the problem. Make sure you use an animal strength product. Oil that is too concentrated can cause sickness and possibly death from the oil your cat may ingest while grooming.

Today there are some animal-related products that are available, so you shouldn’t have any problem getting an appropriate strength Tea Tree oil. Remember, if you are not using an animal-related product that you have to cut the amount used for your pet to account for the difference in body mass.

Internally Evening Primrose Oil (typically given in capsule form although it can be easily added to food) can be taken. Fish oil is another very useful supplement that has the added benefit of being used for years as a natural fur ball solution. Fish oil can be easily added to food.

Additionally, Aloe Vera gel can be very effective when applied to dry and scaly areas. (There is a lot of controversy at present about the effect of ingesting Aloe Vera gel, so try to work it into the skin well and then remove any excess). And as a preventive to keep the biting bugs at bay, Garlic oil works very effectively (so that your cat doesn’t notice a difference in flavor, put a little bit in each meal with an accumulated amount of one capsule per week).

With any skin problem, you need to make sure that no further irritation occurs. Make sure to use only natural shampoos and soaps or soap alternatives (Sorbelene for example). Your health food store or vet will be able to help here.

Urinary tract infection (UTI) in cats is another common health concern. You can usually spot this by your cat's reluctance to use the litter tray. Here your cat has formed an association with painful urination and the litter tray. If your cat begins to urinate in unusual places, then it may be a symptom of this condition. Contact your veterinarian who may suggest getting a urine sample for analysis to confirm the diagnosis. Since UTI is a serious problem, discuss the following natural remedies with your veterinarian and be guided by the advice you get.

There are several herbs that can be used to treat the painful inflammation and infection associated with this condition.

Couch grass is a very powerful cleansing and toning herb that is often used in UTI. It has a strong anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial action and is a remedy used for conditions such as urethritis and cystitis.

This remedy can be administered as a commercially prepared tincture or as a tea. In both cases, it can be easily added to food or water.

Alternatively you can use herbs such as Echinacea and Golden Seal that are renowned for their strong antibiotic-like action. These are quite strong herbs, so check with your veterinarian about dosage amounts.

Intestinal parasites (worms) are a common cause of digestive problems in cats. If you notice the appearance of small white seed like particles in your cat’s feces, then you can be sure your cat has tapeworms.

Roundworms also commonly occur in cats and are usually easily spotted in your cat's vomit or feces. In sufficient quantity, roundworm can obstruct the intestine to the point of being life threatening.

In both of these cases check with your veterinarian about treatment and mention the following as possible options. One natural common and effective treatment for parasites is Garlic oil. You can add the oil to cat food or you can also give fresh garlic by crushing a clove and mixing some of it into the cat food. This can be used daily although 3-4 times a week is usually enough. Make sure to check for parasites in the feces and to get back to the vet if the problem persists.

For general, non parasite based, digestive and bowel disturbances (vomiting and diarrhea for example), apparently powdered slippery elm bark is the remedy of choice. Check with your veterinarian for the amount that can safely be administered.

Slippery elm lines the bowel and has a very calming effect on the whole gastrointestinal tract. It is a very cheap, easily obtained herb, and should be in all medicine cabinets.

At the first sign of any gut problem use of slippery elm bark will show an almost instant positive result.

We have only looked briefly at a few of the health concerns for cats. Whatever health concern your cat may be experiencing, you should know that there are many potentially helpful herbal remedies and nutritional supplements that can be used without the side effects of many conventional drug medications.

Obviously this is not saying that veterinarian intervention is not needed, far from it. Strong medications and surgery are often needed to save the life of cats. Consultation with your veterinarian is always wise as these individuals have a wealth of training and knowlege that could make the difference between a positive or negative outcome.

What you need to do as a cat owner is to learn as much as you can about your animal and the possible solutions that exist for her health problems. Part of that knowledge base should be a familiarity with basic preventive measures and natural remedies that can be used to stop small problems from becoming big problems and the knowledge and understanding of what to do when these natural remedies do not work or should not be tried.

Until next time,

Teia