Things to Keep in Mind When You Want a Lizard as a Pet

Lizards are cold-blooded reptiles belonging to the Squamata order. They have four legs, visible ear openings and manoeuvrable eyelids. Their size can vary from a few centimetres to as long as three meters. The price of a lizard can vary from type to type, with small relatively common lizards selling for under $50 and large more exotic ones selling for thousands of dollars. If you want to get the proper equipment and housing for your pet lizard, it can become quite expensive. The cost can be cut down a bit by doing some research on the Internet before heading to the local pet store.

Before thinking about buying a lizard, the most important factor to be considered is the full-grown size of the lizard as some of the species, as indicated above, can grow up to ten feet long. Usually the larger lizards need extra care and lots of space. Persons who have never owned a lizard before should opt for ones which are easy to handle and relatively small in size. The favourite lizards which are purchased as pets are Leopard Geckos. They are small in size, require only basic maintenance and do not demand special conditions such as big terrariums with special UV lightning. Following closely are Bearded Dragons which average 18 to 24 inches in length. They are very easy to handle but they require a big terrarium with special UV lightning. Mom and Dad’s Bearded Dragon, “Gizmo,” pictured above, had a terrarium that was 40 inches long by 24 inches wide by 12 inches deep. It had oak framed removable screens on the top to allow air to circulate and the heat from the heat lamp to enter and it also had outdoor carpet on the floor because it was easy to clean. Some Bearded Dragon owners have sand in at least part of their terrariums, but keeping it clean is a little more work. “Gizmo’s” terrarium was made from an old plate glass store window, so it only cost a few hundred dollars. However, if you were to purchase a commercially made terrarium of that size it would be quite a large investment.

Another good option as pet lizards are Anoles. Like bearded dragons, they too are easily manageable, but need a big terrarium with special UV lightning. Following next are Blue-tongued Skinks, Green Anoles, Fat Tailed Geckos, Mocquard’s Madagascar Ground Gecko, Tokay Geckos and Day Geckos.

The bigger the lizard the more challenging it becomes to have them as pets. They need a bigger environment; there can be handling issues and many other factors. For example, Iguanas are very good pets, but they need lots of space along with lots of care. In addition, once an Iguana gets of breeding age, which is about three years, they get quite aggressive during breeding season and can deliver a very nasty bite. Full grown Iguanas are frequently six to seven feet in length. Other lizards that pose a challenge as pets are Chameleons, Savannah Monitors and Argentine Black and White Tegus.

Lighting and temperature are very important factors. Most lizards are very specific about the temperature they require. The temperature of their terrarium should be as closely matched to the temperature of their native habitat as possible. Although lizards are cold-blooded, they require warmth for healthy growth. In the wild, these reptiles move to areas where they find a desirable temperature. They will stay out in the sun or move into the shade depending on the conditions they require. For example after eating, “Gizmo” moved under his heat lamp to aid in his digestion. When he had finished digesting his food he would move into a cooler area of his terrarium. So a temperature gradient is a must so that the appropriate temperature can be provided for your pet. Most lizards are omnivorous. They eat fruits, leaves, insects and even small mammals. Some lizards will require you to buy “pinkies” which are freshly born live mice. Others will require a lot of crickets as part of their meal. Some require mealworms as part of their diet, but it is recommended that if mealworms are used that they have their heads removed before feeding them to your lizard. There have been unconfirmed reports of live mealworms chewing through the stomach wall of lizards, resulting in the death of the pet.

Potential owners must carefully observe the lizard before buying it. They should also do a lot of research so that they know the size, shape, personality, food, and environmental requirements of the lizard they plan to purchase. Usually most lizards become stressed from all the travelling and changing environments they endure coming from their place of birth to the place of sale.

There are signs that you should look for to determine if the lizard is healthy or not. Firstly, the body should be fleshy and not flaky. The skin should shine and should not have large wrinkles or scratches. They should look healthy and not bony. If the tail bones and hipbones are visible, they are probably sick as this is the area where lizards store their fat. Swelling on the abdomen or on any other part of the body should also be checked out. They should have bright attentive looking eyes, not dull ones. They should also move when the pet shop owner opens the cage where they are kept.

The eyes should be clean and should not have any discharge. If the reptile has any respiratory disease, its eyes will be swollen and there will be mucus formation around the nose. The overall sanitary conditions should also be checked. The more unclean the surroundings, the more likely the reptile will have a disease. Also, ask to handle the pet. This should be done to test the friendliness of the lizard and to ensure that its limbs are firm and undamaged.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. “Gizmo” lived to be eight years old and he loved to be cuddled. If he didn’t get at least two hours of cuddling each evening (while mom was watching TV) he would get sulky. He loved to lay on mom’s chest and tuck his nose against her throat under her chin. The last night he lived, he lay on her chest and just before passing away, he struggled up and placed his nose against her throat. Then he shuddered and died. It was a very sad and moving experience, but he just had to let her know, before dying, that he “loved” her.

Unusual Pets: Chameleons

Chameleons are members of the lizard family. The name “Chameleon” came from the Greek words “chamai” and “leon,” meaning earth lion. The size of Chameleons varies from one inch to thirty-one inches in length. Chameleons are kept as exotic pets because people are fascinated by their colour changing ability. They change colours to camouflage themselves, to communicate with each other and to regulate their body temperature.

Chameleons do not have the ability to change colours from birth. They are either brown or grey in colour when they are born. As they age, they start by changing to one or two colours and when they reach five months of age, they gain total control of the colour changing ability and are able to change to many colours like green, black, turquoise and blue green. Various colours show emotions such as stress, sense of temperature change and excitement while other colours are used to communicate with other Chameleons. Brighter colours exhibit a good mood; darker colours such as black, grey and brown depict stress. When a Chameleon starts to change from one colour to another, frequently they will momentarily exhibit a few other colours.

The main things that the different Chameleon species have in common are their foot structure, their eyes, their lack of ears and their tongue. Chameleons have a very long tongue so that they can catch flying prey. They have the ability to stretch their tongue up to one and half times the length of their body. The tongue whips out faster than we can see, travelling at 26 body lengths per second. The tongue hits the prey in about 30 thousandths of a second —— one tenth of a human eye blink. A Chameleon's tongue has a sticky tip on the end, which allows them to catch prey that they would otherwise never be able to reach because of their lack of physical speed. The tongue's tip is a bulbous ball of muscle and as it contacts prey, it rapidly forms a small suction cup. Once the tongue sticks to prey, it is drawn quickly back into the mouth, where the Chameleon's strong jaws crush the prey and then consume it. Even a small Chameleon is capable of eating a large locust or praying mantis.

On each foot the Chameleon has five toes that are fused into a group of two and a group of three, giving the foot the appearance of a set of tongs. These specialized feet allow Chameleons to tightly grip narrow branches. Since they spend a lot of their life in the tree tops, this is a necessity. Each toe is equipped with a sharp claw to gain traction on surfaces such as bark when climbing. The claws make it easy to see how many toes are fused into each part of the foot: two toes on the outside of each front foot and three on the inside and the reverse pattern on each hind foot.

Their eyes are more distinctive than the eyes of other reptiles. The upper and lower eyelids are joined, leaving only a pinhole large enough for the pupil to see through. Each eye can rotate and focus separately, allowing a Chameleon to observe two different objects simultaneously. In effect, it gives them a full 360-degree arc of vision. When prey is located, both eyes can be focused in the same direction, giving Chameleons sharp stereoscopic vision and depth perception. The eyes are used to watch out for enemies as well as to hunt for food. Along with insects and slugs Chameleons also eat plants.

Chameleons, like snakes, don't have an outer or a middle ear. This suggests that Chameleons might be deaf. However, some or maybe all Chameleons, can communicate via vibrations that travel through solid material like branches.

Chameleons should not be the first pet that a person obtains. Although Chameleons aren’t the toughest of all exotic pets to look after, they are also not the easiest to handle. Their requirements are very comprehensive and owners frequently get tired of them because of this. But, if you have made up your mind that you want a Chameleon as a pet and you are committed to all the work needed to keep one, then you should certainly consider getting a Chameleon. Make sure that you purchase one that has been brought up in captivity and is trained. The ones that come directly from the wild are quite dangerous, they have a possibility of being infected and it is very difficult for them to adjust to a captive environment. They will also be severely stressed, which will be a big hindrance in training and it could lead to illness or death. You must also remember that many countries have laws prohibiting the exporting of Chameleons, however, that does not stop poachers from doing so. As a result you could be buying an illegal pet and contributing to the continuation of wildlife poaching.

When selecting your pet, check its health, which can be determined by close observation. The Chameleon should be able to change colours and also should be active. It should be brightly coloured and the skin of the body should be smooth and not scaly. Males are easier to maintain because their nutritional requirements are less critical.

Numerous species of Chameleon are available in the exotic pet trade. Jackson's Chameleon, the Panther Chameleon and the Veiled Chameleon are by far the most common in captivity. Most species of Chameleons are listed on CITES and therefore are either banned from exportation from their native countries or have strict quotas placed on the numbers exported. However, lack of enforcement in what are mostly poor countries reduces the effectiveness of this listing.

Chameleons are solitary animals and their camouflaging ability explains it very clearly. They don’t like to be handled, so few will allow you to pet them. Basically, they should be put in a cage with lots of foliage, which caters to their need of climbing trees, as well giving them their desired privacy. They shouldn’t be kept with other pets and it is a really bad idea to keep two male Chameleons together as they will fight and injure each other.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets - The Bearded Dragon

A Bearded Dragon, or Beardie as they are commonly called, is a medium sized lizard native to Australia, which has become an enormously popular pet in the Americas and Europe due to their gentle nature and manageable size. Virtually all Bearded Dragons available in America and Europe are captive bred, as Australia has strict laws against exportation of its wildlife. A bearded dragon ranges in size from 20 to 24 inches when fully grown. It has a beard that expands and turns black when it feels threatened, or gets excited.

Bearded Dragons owe their name to a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head to the base of the tail (giving them a dragon like appearance). Bearded Dragons can puff out the spiny protrusions under their chin when they are angry or excited, giving them the appearance of having a humanlike beard.

Bearded Dragon is the common name for any Agamid lizard in the genus Pogona. Bearded dragons have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies. The golden Bearded Dragon has quite a bit of yellow on the sides of its head and when it is very content, its body becomes a golden cream color. The golden Bearded Dragon is one of the preferred colors and is usually a little more expensive than other Beardies that are darker in color. Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, meaning they eat both insects and plants. Bearded Dragons are known to be very docile and trusting, yet at the same time, outgoing and curious lizards.

A Bearded Dragon is by far the best reptile pet for children of all ages. An average life span for a bearded dragon is eight to twelve years. Owning a Bearded Dragon is a very enjoyable experience because they are not particularly skittish and they become quite affectionate if purchased when they are young and then handled frequently. Bearded Dragons make a wonderful pet for both beginners and advanced reptile keepers.

If you decide that a Bearded Dragon is for you, it is recommended that you do your research before you buy one so that you will be able to give your Dragon the best possible care that it deserves. If properly cared for, a Bearded Dragon is a lizard that you can easily have sit on your lap or shoulder while you are watching TV and not have to worry about it running away (this applies more to an adult Beardie). Bearded Dragons do not need a partner, so having a single Beardie is quite acceptable.

Bearded Dragons need appropriate temperatures so that the food they eat will be digested properly. Like many reptiles, Bearded Dragons require UVA/UVB light as well as an appropriate heat lamp, to maintain correct basking and ambient temperatures. A popular sized enclosure for baby Bearded Dragons is 20 gallons; adults require enclosures of 40 gallons and larger, with eight square feet of floor space being preferable. Bearded Dragons need a warm area reaching 95 - 100 degrees during the day and cooling to 70 - 75 degrees over night. Keep in mind that the surface on which a bearded dragon basks, (after eating), should be maintained at a temperature between 100 and 115 degrees, in order for them to digest their food properly.

Some Bearded Dragon owners claim that a heat rock or under tank heat pad should not be used because there is a danger of the surface getting too hot and burning the lizard. Others claim that an under tank heater is fine as long as there is a carpet like material between the glass and the lizard. Similarly, a heat rock is fine provided that it remains cool enough that you can place your hand on it and hold it there for a period of time without getting burned.

Do not feed Bearded Dragons mice, anoles, or other feeder animals. Crickets should form a large part of a Bearded Dragon’s diet. Crickets should be no bigger than the gap between your Bearded Dragons eyes. Some Beardies will eat mixed vegetables and also fruit. If feeding peas or corn remove the skin before placing the vegetables in the food dish. Also remove the skin from any fruit, just feed your lizard the flesh of the fruit. Some owners also occasionally feed meal worms to their Beardie. However, there are unconfirmed rumors of meal worms chewing through a Beardies stomach, so if you feed meal worms as a treat, remove the head before feeding them to your Beardie. Any food fed to your Beardie should be dusted with a calcium compound twice a week and a Vitamin and mineral compound once a week to properly ensure that they are getting proper nutrition.

If a Bearded Dragon is fed a food item difficult to digest, and he is not provided with the proper temperatures in order for him to digest that food, this can create impaction (this is when a Bearded Dragon’s digestive tract is blocked by a solid or semisolid mass). What is generally suggested is that with the earlier stages of a mild impaction, you may be able to offer your Bearded Dragon some relief by giving him a warm bath and gently massaging his abdomen. Massaging gently down toward the vent may assist your Bearded Dragon in moving an impaction down through his digestive tract, so that he can pass it. Some owners suggest that your Beardie should have a bowel movement every day or every second day, however, some healthy Beardies confound the experts and only have a bowel movement every week or two. If you have any concerns in this regard contact your veterinarian.

In conclusion, if you would like to have a lizard as a pet, you cannot find a better one than a Bearded Dragon. They are easy to tame and look after. They can become quite affectionate if handled frequently. Unfortunately there is a lot of misinformation circulating about these lovable pets so be sure to do a lot of research to ensure that a Beardie is the pet for you.

To get you started on your research, here is a site worth visiting.

http://www.liscoon.com/dragons.html


Until next time,

Teia