Unusual Pets: The Leopard Gecko

The natural habitat of the Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is the dry grasslands and desert regions of southern Afghanistan, Pakistan, parts of Iran, north west India and Vietnam. However, since it has become in great demand in the pet industry, domestic breeding is taking place in numerous countries around the world.

This nocturnal reptile emerges from under rocks or from dry burrows to hunt for insects at dusk. This Gecko is unique in that it is the only one to have movable eyelids, which helps it to keep its eyes clean in the dusty environment of its natural habitats. In addition, the Leopard Gecko is the only Gecko to have claws on its toes instead of the usual adhesive toe pads that all other Geckos possess. These claws aid the Leopard Gecko in digging insects out of the ground and in digging burrows to shade them from the burning sun.

At birth, the Leopard Gecko has no spots. Instead the body has alternating dark and light yellow bands as shown in photo one above. As the Leopard Gecko ages, these bands fade and by one year of age, the spotted body of an adult appears (see photo two above).

Like most lizards, the Leopard Gecko can release its tail if it is frightened or grabbed by a predator. The detached tail will continue to wiggle and thrash about which distracts the predator, frequently allowing the Leopard Gecko to scamper to freedom. A new tail will grow in about 40 days, however, the new tail is usually shorter and bulbous. It is therefore recommended that owners of Leopard Geckos refrain from grabbing their lizard by the tail as they will probably be left holding a spasmodic appendage.

The Leopard Gecko also uses its tail as a fat storage container. Every time a Gecko eats, it converts some of its food into fat which it stores in its tail. When food is unavailable, the Leopard Gecko uses the stored fat for nutrition, keeping it alive for several weeks. A healthy Leopard Gecko will have a tail that is wider than its neck and almost as long as its body.

Pet Geckos can be housed in aquariums, terrariums or vivariums. Depending on the number of lizards you have, the size of the tank will have to increase. Be careful what you use as a bottom covering. Leopard Geckos frequently miss their prey when they strike and end up with a mouth full of bottom substrate. If they swallow this bottom covering, it could impact in their intestines, frequently with fatal results. This is why many Leopard Gecko owners put newspaper, wrapping paper, paper towels, floor tiles or indoor/outdoor carpet on the bottom of their tanks. Mom and dad use indoor/outdoor carpet for “Sarah” their female Bearded Dragon.

Leopard Geckos should be fed insects such as crickets, meal worms and grasshoppers (from a pesticide free area), although any insect that is smaller in size than the width of your pet's head can be considered. Pinkies (baby mice without fur) can be fed occasionally but they tend to cause your lizard to become fat. However, breeding females can be fed pinkies regularly as it helps them produce healthy eggs. All insects given to your Leopard Gecko should be dusted with vitamin and calcium powder every second feeding for adults and every feeding for juveniles and babies. Feed babies and juveniles every day and adult Leopard Geckos every two or three days. You should also consider gut loading your insects with fruit, vegetables, grains, oats and seeds to ensure that your Gecko gets proper nutrition. Do not leave live insects in your pet's tank after he has finished eating. They could bite the lizard and cause an infection. Your tank should also contain a shallow water dish which should be cleaned daily to prevent algae and mold growth.

Leopard Geckos live about 15 years, although a few will live longer, with the oldest recorded one living to the age of 25 years. Breeding females usually have a shorter lifespan.

Your Leopard Gecko's tank should be equipped with a heat lamp at one end and a cooler area at the other. The heat lamp should be situated so that your lizard cannot come into contact with it as the lizard would be badly burned if contact is made. One area of your tank should have high humidity as this aids your lizard when he sheds his skin, which occurs frequently when he is growing and from one to three times a year when full growth has be attained. If the skin is too dry when shedding begins, the skin sticks to the body, particularly to the legs and toes. It could then restrict the flow of blood to these extremities resulting in loss of these digits.

Your Leopard Gecko will grow to a length of 8 or 9 inches, although some have grown as long as 11 inches. Do not put two male Leopard Geckos in the same tank as they they will fight. Because Leopard Geckos are nocturnal creatures, your tank should have hiding structures in both the cool and hot ends of the tank. These hiding places allow your lizard to sleep in a “safe” place during the day. DO NOT put a “hot rock” in your Leopard Gecko's tank as it could cause your lizard to be badly burned.

Leopard Geckos can be picked up and held, just be sure that you don't pick them up by the head or tail as they will panic. The best way to do it is to slowly slide you hand under the Gecko and slowly lift it up. Leopard Geckos seldom bite unless they are seriously provoked. Try not to move too fast when near your Leopard Gecko's tank so that you don't frighten him. If you would like to have an easy to care for lizard as a pet, then a Leopard Gecko is a great choice.

Until next time,

Teia

Things to Keep in Mind When You Want a Lizard as a Pet

Lizards are cold-blooded reptiles belonging to the Squamata order. They have four legs, visible ear openings and manoeuvrable eyelids. Their size can vary from a few centimetres to as long as three meters. The price of a lizard can vary from type to type, with small relatively common lizards selling for under $50 and large more exotic ones selling for thousands of dollars. If you want to get the proper equipment and housing for your pet lizard, it can become quite expensive. The cost can be cut down a bit by doing some research on the Internet before heading to the local pet store.

Before thinking about buying a lizard, the most important factor to be considered is the full-grown size of the lizard as some of the species, as indicated above, can grow up to ten feet long. Usually the larger lizards need extra care and lots of space. Persons who have never owned a lizard before should opt for ones which are easy to handle and relatively small in size. The favourite lizards which are purchased as pets are Leopard Geckos. They are small in size, require only basic maintenance and do not demand special conditions such as big terrariums with special UV lightning. Following closely are Bearded Dragons which average 18 to 24 inches in length. They are very easy to handle but they require a big terrarium with special UV lightning. Mom and Dad’s Bearded Dragon, “Gizmo,” pictured above, had a terrarium that was 40 inches long by 24 inches wide by 12 inches deep. It had oak framed removable screens on the top to allow air to circulate and the heat from the heat lamp to enter and it also had outdoor carpet on the floor because it was easy to clean. Some Bearded Dragon owners have sand in at least part of their terrariums, but keeping it clean is a little more work. “Gizmo’s” terrarium was made from an old plate glass store window, so it only cost a few hundred dollars. However, if you were to purchase a commercially made terrarium of that size it would be quite a large investment.

Another good option as pet lizards are Anoles. Like bearded dragons, they too are easily manageable, but need a big terrarium with special UV lightning. Following next are Blue-tongued Skinks, Green Anoles, Fat Tailed Geckos, Mocquard’s Madagascar Ground Gecko, Tokay Geckos and Day Geckos.

The bigger the lizard the more challenging it becomes to have them as pets. They need a bigger environment; there can be handling issues and many other factors. For example, Iguanas are very good pets, but they need lots of space along with lots of care. In addition, once an Iguana gets of breeding age, which is about three years, they get quite aggressive during breeding season and can deliver a very nasty bite. Full grown Iguanas are frequently six to seven feet in length. Other lizards that pose a challenge as pets are Chameleons, Savannah Monitors and Argentine Black and White Tegus.

Lighting and temperature are very important factors. Most lizards are very specific about the temperature they require. The temperature of their terrarium should be as closely matched to the temperature of their native habitat as possible. Although lizards are cold-blooded, they require warmth for healthy growth. In the wild, these reptiles move to areas where they find a desirable temperature. They will stay out in the sun or move into the shade depending on the conditions they require. For example after eating, “Gizmo” moved under his heat lamp to aid in his digestion. When he had finished digesting his food he would move into a cooler area of his terrarium. So a temperature gradient is a must so that the appropriate temperature can be provided for your pet. Most lizards are omnivorous. They eat fruits, leaves, insects and even small mammals. Some lizards will require you to buy “pinkies” which are freshly born live mice. Others will require a lot of crickets as part of their meal. Some require mealworms as part of their diet, but it is recommended that if mealworms are used that they have their heads removed before feeding them to your lizard. There have been unconfirmed reports of live mealworms chewing through the stomach wall of lizards, resulting in the death of the pet.

Potential owners must carefully observe the lizard before buying it. They should also do a lot of research so that they know the size, shape, personality, food, and environmental requirements of the lizard they plan to purchase. Usually most lizards become stressed from all the travelling and changing environments they endure coming from their place of birth to the place of sale.

There are signs that you should look for to determine if the lizard is healthy or not. Firstly, the body should be fleshy and not flaky. The skin should shine and should not have large wrinkles or scratches. They should look healthy and not bony. If the tail bones and hipbones are visible, they are probably sick as this is the area where lizards store their fat. Swelling on the abdomen or on any other part of the body should also be checked out. They should have bright attentive looking eyes, not dull ones. They should also move when the pet shop owner opens the cage where they are kept.

The eyes should be clean and should not have any discharge. If the reptile has any respiratory disease, its eyes will be swollen and there will be mucus formation around the nose. The overall sanitary conditions should also be checked. The more unclean the surroundings, the more likely the reptile will have a disease. Also, ask to handle the pet. This should be done to test the friendliness of the lizard and to ensure that its limbs are firm and undamaged.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. “Gizmo” lived to be eight years old and he loved to be cuddled. If he didn’t get at least two hours of cuddling each evening (while mom was watching TV) he would get sulky. He loved to lay on mom’s chest and tuck his nose against her throat under her chin. The last night he lived, he lay on her chest and just before passing away, he struggled up and placed his nose against her throat. Then he shuddered and died. It was a very sad and moving experience, but he just had to let her know, before dying, that he “loved” her.