Unusual Pets: The Leopard Gecko

The natural habitat of the Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is the dry grasslands and desert regions of southern Afghanistan, Pakistan, parts of Iran, north west India and Vietnam. However, since it has become in great demand in the pet industry, domestic breeding is taking place in numerous countries around the world.

This nocturnal reptile emerges from under rocks or from dry burrows to hunt for insects at dusk. This Gecko is unique in that it is the only one to have movable eyelids, which helps it to keep its eyes clean in the dusty environment of its natural habitats. In addition, the Leopard Gecko is the only Gecko to have claws on its toes instead of the usual adhesive toe pads that all other Geckos possess. These claws aid the Leopard Gecko in digging insects out of the ground and in digging burrows to shade them from the burning sun.

At birth, the Leopard Gecko has no spots. Instead the body has alternating dark and light yellow bands as shown in photo one above. As the Leopard Gecko ages, these bands fade and by one year of age, the spotted body of an adult appears (see photo two above).

Like most lizards, the Leopard Gecko can release its tail if it is frightened or grabbed by a predator. The detached tail will continue to wiggle and thrash about which distracts the predator, frequently allowing the Leopard Gecko to scamper to freedom. A new tail will grow in about 40 days, however, the new tail is usually shorter and bulbous. It is therefore recommended that owners of Leopard Geckos refrain from grabbing their lizard by the tail as they will probably be left holding a spasmodic appendage.

The Leopard Gecko also uses its tail as a fat storage container. Every time a Gecko eats, it converts some of its food into fat which it stores in its tail. When food is unavailable, the Leopard Gecko uses the stored fat for nutrition, keeping it alive for several weeks. A healthy Leopard Gecko will have a tail that is wider than its neck and almost as long as its body.

Pet Geckos can be housed in aquariums, terrariums or vivariums. Depending on the number of lizards you have, the size of the tank will have to increase. Be careful what you use as a bottom covering. Leopard Geckos frequently miss their prey when they strike and end up with a mouth full of bottom substrate. If they swallow this bottom covering, it could impact in their intestines, frequently with fatal results. This is why many Leopard Gecko owners put newspaper, wrapping paper, paper towels, floor tiles or indoor/outdoor carpet on the bottom of their tanks. Mom and dad use indoor/outdoor carpet for “Sarah” their female Bearded Dragon.

Leopard Geckos should be fed insects such as crickets, meal worms and grasshoppers (from a pesticide free area), although any insect that is smaller in size than the width of your pet's head can be considered. Pinkies (baby mice without fur) can be fed occasionally but they tend to cause your lizard to become fat. However, breeding females can be fed pinkies regularly as it helps them produce healthy eggs. All insects given to your Leopard Gecko should be dusted with vitamin and calcium powder every second feeding for adults and every feeding for juveniles and babies. Feed babies and juveniles every day and adult Leopard Geckos every two or three days. You should also consider gut loading your insects with fruit, vegetables, grains, oats and seeds to ensure that your Gecko gets proper nutrition. Do not leave live insects in your pet's tank after he has finished eating. They could bite the lizard and cause an infection. Your tank should also contain a shallow water dish which should be cleaned daily to prevent algae and mold growth.

Leopard Geckos live about 15 years, although a few will live longer, with the oldest recorded one living to the age of 25 years. Breeding females usually have a shorter lifespan.

Your Leopard Gecko's tank should be equipped with a heat lamp at one end and a cooler area at the other. The heat lamp should be situated so that your lizard cannot come into contact with it as the lizard would be badly burned if contact is made. One area of your tank should have high humidity as this aids your lizard when he sheds his skin, which occurs frequently when he is growing and from one to three times a year when full growth has be attained. If the skin is too dry when shedding begins, the skin sticks to the body, particularly to the legs and toes. It could then restrict the flow of blood to these extremities resulting in loss of these digits.

Your Leopard Gecko will grow to a length of 8 or 9 inches, although some have grown as long as 11 inches. Do not put two male Leopard Geckos in the same tank as they they will fight. Because Leopard Geckos are nocturnal creatures, your tank should have hiding structures in both the cool and hot ends of the tank. These hiding places allow your lizard to sleep in a “safe” place during the day. DO NOT put a “hot rock” in your Leopard Gecko's tank as it could cause your lizard to be badly burned.

Leopard Geckos can be picked up and held, just be sure that you don't pick them up by the head or tail as they will panic. The best way to do it is to slowly slide you hand under the Gecko and slowly lift it up. Leopard Geckos seldom bite unless they are seriously provoked. Try not to move too fast when near your Leopard Gecko's tank so that you don't frighten him. If you would like to have an easy to care for lizard as a pet, then a Leopard Gecko is a great choice.

Until next time,

Teia

Helpful Hermit Crab Basics

See the August 19, 2009 entry “Unusual Pets: Hermit Crabs” for an introduction to these fascinating pets.

Hermit crabs are fun pets to care for in your home. They used to be reserved as souvenirs from seaside vacations, but now you can buy them in most pet shops. They make wonderful starter pets for kids. They are a great alternative to the more traditional gerbils or hamsters and they have a much longer lifespan than goldfish. Contrary to what you might expect, it is possible to play with them and they do have little personalities of their own. Do you think hermit crabs may make a great pet for you? Here are some helpful hints to get you started.

Before you get your crab, you need to get the basic equipment and supplies in place. First, your crab will need an aquarium for its house. Forget those teeny, tiny cages you see at the shops by the beach; hermit crabs really need a ten-gallon aquarium to be comfortable. If you are getting more than one crab, obviously you will need a bigger aquarium. A pet shop will tell you the best size to get, depending on the number of crabs you will be housing. Make sure the aquarium has a snug fitting lid so your little friends do not make a run for it! Place a reptile heating-pad under the tank to keep your crabs feeling nice and tropical.

You will need something to cover the floor of the tank, as well. Three to four inches of sand works best, but you can also use crushed coral or reptile fibre bedding. If you use something other than sand, it is still a good idea to cover a portion of the floor with sand, so the crabs will have somewhere comfortable to go when they moult.

Now that you have the house and the flooring taken care of, you will need to get two shallow water dishes and a food dish. Shallow seashells can be used if you have access to them. In one water dish, you should keep fresh water and in the other, keep salt water, made with a marine aquarium salt solution. The dishes need to be shallow enough that the crabs can crawl into and out of them. A natural sea sponge is a nice addition to the fresh water dish. Your crab will love to pinch it and it will help keep the humidity levels up in the aquarium.

The last thing you will need to fancy up your hermit crab home is some decorative wood pieces so your crab can climb on them. Coral and pieces of clean coconut shell also make great additions. Your crab will love playing with them.

You will need to get some commercial hermit crab food so your crab will have something to eat. You can supplement that food with small pieces of fruit, meat, cereal or fish. Additionally, make sure your crab gets crushed eggshells or oyster shells to boost its calcium level; it is important to keep its fragile skeleton strong. Cuttlebone, which is kept in the bird area of most pet stores can also be used for this purpose.

To care for your crab, clean its water and food dishes daily and spot clean the tank when necessary. You will want to provide plenty of extra shells, in increasingly larger sizes, so your crab can change homes as it grows. Shells with wide openings are best. When your crab moults, remove the skin it has shed as soon as possible as it will begin to decay and could contaminate items within the tank.

Optional, but useful accessories to get are a tank thermometer and humidity-measuring tool. Your hermit crab will be most comfortable when you keep the temperature around 72°F - 80°F and you keep the humidity level between 70% and 80%.

With these helpful hints, you are now ready to get your hermit crab. One more fun part remains to be done…you get to pick a name for your new pet.

Until next time,

Teia

Domestic Fish-keeping

Fish are kept at home in aquariums and ponds. The hobby of fish keeping is divided into brackish, saltwater and freshwater fish keeping, with the most popular hobby being freshwater fish keeping. The fish which are most popular are angelfish, goldfish and guppies. Different species of fish can be kept together, however, be careful on which species you place in the same aquarium or pond. Prior to buying fish, check with the staff of the store where you are buying them to ensure that they are compatible with fish you already have in your pond or aquarium. If you decide that you would like to breed fish, get one or two males and five or six females of the same species and place them together for breeding purposes. However, again be careful as some species will kill each other if they are not in a breeding mood. There are two types of breeding fish. Some fish lay eggs which after a time hatch into baby fish and others bear live baby fish. With breeders, the popular fish species are guppies, mollies, catfish, killifish, cichlids and characin.

Fish keeping was started centuries ago. At that time fish were bred for food. Chinese and Japanese traditions included fish keeping for food purposes. Also, due to religious customs, fish was eaten on days when meat wasn’t allowed. But later kings began keeping goldfish and koi, because of their attractive colors. They were kept in ponds and when guests arrived, the fish were moved indoors into fish bowls. Romans were also known to keep lampreys in pools with salt water. Ancient Egyptians kept fish from Oxyrhynchus in temple pools.

Saltwater or marine fish keeping is more difficult and expensive. It is very beautiful with colourful and attractive fish along with different types of corals. However, due to the difficulty of maintaining the water at optimum conditions, it is certainly not for beginners. Brackish fish keeping involves both freshwater and saltwater fish keeping, because the salinity of the water is in between that of seawater and freshwater.

Many aquarists also focus on aquatic plants. Some hardcore aquarists even attempt to grow coral reefs with the help of living rocks and calcareous rocks with algae growth, sponges and worms. When the coral begins to grow, echinoderms, crabs, molluscs and shrimp are also added to the aquariums, which are also called reef tanks.

The aquarium should have ecology which is similar to the natural habitat of the fish that occupy the tank, which can be quite difficult to accomplish because water from different parts of the world contains different dissolved minerals and contains different minute organisms.

The surface area of your aquarium is probably more important than the volume of the water. This is because, the more surface area a tank has, the more oxygen levels increase in the water. Air pumps also are used to increase the dissolved oxygen in the water. This is part of the nutrient cycle, which should be maintained and controlled for the welfare of the fish. Larger aquariums are more preferable as they make things easier. The larger volume of water means that changes take place much more slowly. Unless the aquarium is greatly overstocked with fish, changes in pH and chemical imbalances take longer to occur and can usually be adjusted before the fish are affected.

Other factors to be controlled in your aquarium are the nitrogen cycle, dissolved gases and a balanced food supply. The salinity of the water should be checked regularly depending on the type of aquaria being maintained. The pH level should be checked to test the acidic nature of the water. For a freshwater aquarium, most aquarists use tap water, which is a mistake as it contains chlorine and possibly even fluoride. Chloramines should be used in tap water to make it chlorine free or it should be aged in an unused tank until the chlorine gases off.

For a tropical aquarium, the water should be warm and the temperature should be nearly seventy-seven degrees Fahrenheit. For a cold water aquarium, the water temperature should be less than room temperature. To accomplish this, a refrigeration device called a chiller can be used.

Plants and certain organisms can be kept in the aquarium because they metabolize the waste, especially nitrogen. But the more organisms added to the fish tank, the more difficult it is to maintain. The needs of all the aquatic organisms must be considered. Introducing many types of species into an aquarium is known as biological loading. Two other important factors which should be considered include the filtration process you use and the oxygen levels of the water in your tank(s).

Aquarists interested in fish breeding should be careful. Firstly, they shouldn’t mix a lot of different types of fish together. They should also develop special conditions called spawning triggers for proper breeding.

Artificial ponds can also be made in the garden. It is very similar to indoor aquarium keeping, except that ponds are much bigger and they are out in the natural elements. Tropical fish are a good choice for such garden ponds, however, where the temperatures are colder, goldfish, orfe and koi are good options. And if you live in areas like I do where winter is the longest season of the year and temperatures can go below minus 40 degrees, it is advisable to move your pond fish into indoor aquariums during the winter. When we lived in Regina, Saskatchewan, mom and dad moved their pond fish into a 240 gallon fish tank in the basement during the winter. The tropical fish occupied 10 aquariums of various sizes on the main floor of the house. Keeping these tanks cleaned and the fish in them in tip top condition occupied a lot of mom and dad’s time, so I was glad when we moved north that the number of tanks was slowly reduced to zero so mom and dad could spend more time with ME.

Until next time,

Teia

Unusual Pets: Hermit Crabs

Hermit crabs are not related in any way to the marine crabs you see crawling across the beaches of the world. Hermit crabs belong to the super family Paguroidea. They are called Hermit crabs because they like to occupy abandoned seashells. They do this to protect their delicate abdomen from predators. There are nearly 500 species of Hermit crabs in the world and most of them live in water. Wild Hermit crabs traditionally live in large colonies of 100 or more occupants.

When a Hermit crab outgrows its current shell, it abandons the shell and moves into a larger one. While it is searching for a larger shell, a Hermit crab is easy prey for predators. Hermit crabs with well fitting shells grow faster than ones that have tight fitting shells. Ones with tight shells cannot withdraw into the shell as easily or quickly as those with well fitting shells, so they are more vulnerable to predators which flip over the shell and attack the Hermit crab's soft abdomen. Because the availability of abandoned shells depends on the population of gastropods in the area, there is frequently a shortage of shells. This usually leads to Hermit crabs fighting with each other for shells. Very rarely do Hermit crabs voluntarily trade shells with each other. When a Hermit crab selects a new shell, it is usually at least one-third larger than their current shell.

Hermit crabs have a tough exoskeleton which covers most of their body, except for their soft abdomen. Therefore, to grow, the Hermit crab has to shed its exoskeleton and grow another one. This process is known as molting. During the molting process, which lasts approximately two weeks, the Hermit crab buries itself in gravel and becomes inactive. Small Hermit crabs molt about once a month and larger ones about once every eighteen months.

Hermit crabs are now being kept as exotic pets because as well as being interesting, they require the least amount of maintenance of all the exotic pets. They seldom grow bigger than a large peach, so they can be kept in a normal aquarium. In the last number of years, many species of Hermit crabs have become part of the marine aquarium trade. Blue legged Hermit crabs, Zebra Hermit crabs, red reef Hermit crabs, common Hermit crabs and red tip Hermit crabs are some of the types which are kept as pets. The most desirable Hermit crab for a pet is the red reef Hermit crab or as it is sometimes called, the scarlet Hermit crab. It is very strikingly coloured, with a bright red body and yellow eye stalks.

Aquatic Hermit crabs live in salt water with salinity ranging from 1.023 to 1.025. The water temperature should be between 75 degrees Fahrenheit and 80 degrees Fahrenheit for species that come from tropical waters, and cooler for ones that come from temperate waters. The gravel bed of the aquarium where they are housed should be fairly deep, full of algae and it should be covered with many different sized and shaped seashells. If Hermit crabs have a large number of shells to choose from, they will change shells frequently. This is very interesting to watch. Other activities such as climbing and digging are also interesting to watch.

Hermit crabs should be fed daily. Their food dishes should be fairly low and flat so that the Hermit crab can easily climb in and out of the dish. Some species of Hermit crabs are herbivorous and some are omnivorous. When you buy your Hermit crab(s) make sure that the seller tells you what kind you have purchased so that when you buy commercial food, you get the kind designed for the crabs you have. You can also add fresh vegetables and fruit to you crab's diet, however, you must ensure that you never leave this fresh produce in your tank for more than 24 hours as it will begin to decay and will contaminate the water, endangering your pet. Should you choose a land Hermit crab, in addition to its daily food, it needs to be sprinkled with lukewarm water for several minutes. The gravel in your tank should be removed and your tank should be washed about once every month or two. While removing the gravel look at it carefully to ensure uneaten commercial food is removed before it becomes toxic from decay. When removing the water, ensure that you save at least half of it for refilling the tank. This ensures that your crab(s) are not stressed by a drastic change in the water. (Note, do not use soap to wash your tank as the residue left behind could be fatal to your crab(s). Use either plain water or water with a few drops of white vinegar in it to wash your tank. If using a water-vinegar wash water, be sure to rinse the tank thoroughly with plain water and dry it out before putting water back into the tank. If the old water looks “grubby” pour it back into the tank through a paper coffee filter to remove the solids).

You can train your Hermit crab(s) to climb onto your hand by holding your open hand, palm up, in front of your pet. If you keep your hand motionless, in a few minutes, your Hermit crab will climb on. It may pinch your palm, but it will usually let go if you stir the water near it with your other hand. If your pet is a land Hermit crab, run your hand with the crab on it, under lukewarm water and it will immediately let go.

Until next time,

Teia

Saltwater Aquariums

Before I get into the discussion of salt water aquariums, I have to warn you. Salt water aquariums are not for the novice fish owner. Even seasoned fresh water aquarium owners have experienced a great deal of trouble trying to maintain salt water tanks. It is very difficult to regulate these tanks and it takes a lot of effort and patience just to get the tanks fit for fish. One Aquarium shop owner my mom and dad dealt with regularly, when they had aquariums, told them that it is quite common to take a year to get the tank properly stabilized so that you can safely keep marine fish in it. Anyone that tells you that keeping saltwater tanks is as easy as keeping fresh water tanks either is lying or has never owned a salt water tank. One further point I would like to cover is the cost associated with maintaining saltwater tanks. The tanks themselves are about the same price as freshwater tanks. Everything else is much more expensive. The fish themselves can cost anywhere from ten dollars to thousands of dollars each. Now that you know that salt water tanks are a lot of work and expensive, I will go over the type of fish you should start out with.

Did you ever wonder why those beautiful fish tanks that you see in the movies look so much better than your freshwater tank?

The answer lies in the fish! Saltwater or marine aquariums are made to house tropical fish that you find around reefs in the ocean. These fish come in shapes, sizes and colors that make a dramatic impact. Most freshwater fish simply cannot compete with these natural beauties.

If you want these same gorgeous fish in your living room, you can set up and maintain a saltwater tank to house them. Once your tank is stable, you are ready to buy your first marine fish. The key is to choose hardy fish that will last. Saltwater fish are much more fragile and more expensive than their freshwater counterparts.

Some hardy fish you may want to consider for a saltwater tank include damsels, mollies and clown fish.

Damsels are probably the most hardy fish and should certainly be considered for a new tank as well as for beginners to marine aquarium ownership. These fish are fairly inexpensive, are not finicky eaters and can withstand poor water conditions better than any other marine fish. Although they are not the most colorful of fish, they are certainly your best bet until you become experienced and have a stable tank. The only caveat is that some can be aggressive so you should limit yourself to two per tank.

Mollies, the same fish that you use in freshwater tanks, can be acclimated to salt water tanks and are quite hardy. These fish are very inexpensive and a great way to start off your marine tank. If you buy mollies in the pet store from a freshwater tank, acclimate them by dripping salt water into the bag over a period of eight hours or so - removing excess water when the bag gets too full and slowly increasing the salinity.

While damsels and mollies may not be the most beautiful fish, the clown fish is certainly a colorful and interesting fish for your tank. These fish are fairly hardy but a bit more difficult to acclimate to a tank so you may not want to use them as starter fish. Clown fish are territorial but will only be aggressive with other clowns and are good for a community tank. Although clowns do like to live around a sea anemone, they will do fine without one which is good for the beginner since the anemone is fairly difficult to keep.

While starting off your tank with these three types of fish can be fun and exciting, you will eventually want to move on to other fish. Other fish you may want to try include hawk fish, grammas, dotty backs, wrasses and basslets. The fish that are more difficult to keep and should probably be avoided include seahorses, butterfly fish, blue ribbon eels, stonefish, and mandarin fish. Join a fish club that has members with marine tanks and learn from seasoned marine aquarium owners. Once you learn the requirements of marine tanks, you will love the colors and shapes of your new marine fish. Good luck with your new hobby.

Until next time,

Teia

PS You can also restrict your marine tank to different types of coral if you so desire. Make sure to discuss the types of coral and their care with your aquarium shop personnel or with marine fish club members.

Simple Tips for Taking Care of Fish in a Home Aquarium

Mom used to have a lot of aquariums, and at one point she had ten of them. However, she began eliminating them about 5 years ago. She got rid of the last few when auntie moved home a couple of years ago. Watching the fish swimming around in their aquariums was fun.

An aquarium in your home can add beauty as well as fun to your living area. Psychologists claim that watching fish swim in an aquarium is one of the greatest stress relievers there is. That is probably why so many doctors’ offices now have aquariums. If you are going to install an aquarium in your home, there are a few simple tips you need to keep in mind if you're going to be successful at this intriguing endeavor.

1. Choose an appropriate aquarium for your home.

Don't purchase an aquarium that is extremely deep unless you're prepared to do a lot of extra work. If you own a deep aquarium and one or more of your fish dies, the water may become polluted before you even notice any dead fish.

In a deep aquarium it's difficult to get the plants you may wish to introduce to grow properly since the light has to go all the way down to the bottom. If you want an extra large aquarium, you need to purchase a 48-gallon aquarium that is 48 inches long by 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep. Get one that comes with a flourescent light canopy as this will be capable of illuminating the large aquarium's bottom. Because the aquarium is only a foot deep, your plants will get adequate light and you will have no difficulty seeing all parts of your aquarium. If you get a 48-gallon aquarium, make sure that you get a filter that will be large enough to adequately filter that volume of water.

2. It's best if you purchase all needed aquarium supplies before you set up your aquarium. Let the aquarium sit for at least one week full of water with the filters going before putting any fish into it. Then only put one or two in at a time with at least a three day to one week interval between each group of fish. In this way you won’t upset the biological balance in your aquarium.

Here are some supplies you're going to need:

* aquarium
* aquarium cover with a flourescent light bar
* heater
* aquarium filter
* gravel
* 5 gallon bucket
* strainer
* glass scrubber
* fish food
* replacement filter media
* chemical test kits
* plants -- natural or artificial
* decorations
* fish net
* aquarium vacuum
* aquarium stand - if you don’t have a piece of furniture capable of supporting over 500 pounds (480 pounds of water plus the weight of the aquarium, gravel, fish, filter, and decorations) you should consider getting an aquarium stand to put your aquarium on.

3. It's essential that you keep a close watch over your aquarium. Be sure to check the water in your aquarium for fungus infections, parasites and bacteria. There are parasites that can enter your aquarium through infected fish. Before you notice anything wrong, your entire aquarium could be totally infested. Therefore, be sure to keep close watch to see if any of your fish show signs of being infected and put them in a separate tank away from your healthy fish.

Before adding new fish to your aquarium, you should keep them in a separate tank for at least a week before introducing them to your other fish. You only need an inexpensive plastic tank with no gravel or plants to keep your new fish in to make sure they're healthy. Then add fish gradually so you don't get so many fish in your aquarium that ammonia problems arise, which can result in some or all of your fish dying. A good rule for the number of fish, is to have a maximum of one inch of fish for every gallon of water. Therefore, a 48-gallon tank could handle up to 48 inches of fish. Note! Fish grow. Before purchasing fish, check with the pet store you are buying them from to find out how big they will be when full grown. Overcrowding your tank will cause a lot of problems and spoil the fun of having an aquarium.

4. Take care of your fish by choosing them wisely. Not every fish is compatible with every other fish; so don't purchase fish that won't get along well together just because they're attractive. You'll be sorry if you do. A friend of mom’s did this. Three days later he only had his new attractive fish in the tank. It had eaten all the rest. Pet store staff should be able to tell you if the fish you are looking at is a candidate for a community tank (one with a variety of different fish in it). If they can’t, then go to a different store to buy your fish.

Educate yourself about fish at your local pet store before you make your purchases. You will want to learn what your new fish is like and what its habits are so you'll know how to take care of it. You'll also need to learn if it is compatible with your other fish. Check with the pet store to see if there is an aquarium club in the area. If there is, join it. You will meet a lot of knowledgeable fish enthusiasts at the club. They will gladly help you out and answer all your questions. Aquarium club members frequently have fish to sell or give away, so you can frequently get some good quality fish at very reasonable prices. Also, having someone you can call when you have a problem is invaluable.

5. Be sure that you don't give your fish too much to eat. One of the most common causes of fish dying prematurely in aquariums is overfeeding them. A good rule is to only put enough food in the tank so that your fish can eat it all in two minutes, with none settling on the bottom of the tank. It is much better to under feed your fish than overfeeding them. Provide a little variety in the diet of your fish. Just like you, your fish won’t be happy eating the same food every day of the week. Pet store clerks should be able to help you out in this regard. If they can’t, members of the aquarium club certainly will.

Now that you've read these five simple tips to help you successfully raise fish in your home, be sure to put these tips into practice. Then have fun as these marvelous creatures entertain you.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. The tank shown above is too deep. Mom had a lot of trouble getting the water to circulate properly and as a result, polutants from fish waste built up regularly causing the fish to become ill. She finally solved the problem by putting extensions on the intake tubes to the filters. In this way she drew in the water to be filtered from the bottom of the tank and emptied the filtered water into the top. Once she did this, her fish remained healthy and the tank ended up being in biological balance. She never had this sort of problem with her 48 gallon tanks.

PPS. When buying a tank over 10 gallons, always buy a tank with thick walls. The glass should be one-quarter of an inch thick or thicker. There is much less chance of the glass breaking and spilling a large volume of water onto your floor. Also, the pressure of the water will not make the sides of your tank bulge out. If this happens, your tank cover will not fit properly and your glass will always be under stress.