Showing posts with label lizards. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lizards. Show all posts

Friday, January 29, 2010

Unusual Pets: The Leopard Gecko



The natural habitat of the Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is the dry grasslands and desert regions of southern Afghanistan, Pakistan, parts of Iran, north west India and Vietnam. However, since it has become in great demand in the pet industry, domestic breeding is taking place in numerous countries around the world.

This nocturnal reptile emerges from under rocks or from dry burrows to hunt for insects at dusk. This Gecko is unique in that it is the only one to have movable eyelids, which helps it to keep its eyes clean in the dusty environment of its natural habitats. In addition, the Leopard Gecko is the only Gecko to have claws on its toes instead of the usual adhesive toe pads that all other Geckos possess. These claws aid the Leopard Gecko in digging insects out of the ground and in digging burrows to shade them from the burning sun.

At birth, the Leopard Gecko has no spots. Instead the body has alternating dark and light yellow bands as shown in photo one above. As the Leopard Gecko ages, these bands fade and by one year of age, the spotted body of an adult appears (see photo two above).

Like most lizards, the Leopard Gecko can release its tail if it is frightened or grabbed by a predator. The detached tail will continue to wiggle and thrash about which distracts the predator, frequently allowing the Leopard Gecko to scamper to freedom. A new tail will grow in about 40 days, however, the new tail is usually shorter and bulbous. It is therefore recommended that owners of Leopard Geckos refrain from grabbing their lizard by the tail as they will probably be left holding a spasmodic appendage.

The Leopard Gecko also uses its tail as a fat storage container. Every time a Gecko eats, it converts some of its food into fat which it stores in its tail. When food is unavailable, the Leopard Gecko uses the stored fat for nutrition, keeping it alive for several weeks. A healthy Leopard Gecko will have a tail that is wider than its neck and almost as long as its body.

Pet Geckos can be housed in aquariums, terrariums or vivariums. Depending on the number of lizards you have, the size of the tank will have to increase. Be careful what you use as a bottom covering. Leopard Geckos frequently miss their prey when they strike and end up with a mouth full of bottom substrate. If they swallow this bottom covering, it could impact in their intestines, frequently with fatal results. This is why many Leopard Gecko owners put newspaper, wrapping paper, paper towels, floor tiles or indoor/outdoor carpet on the bottom of their tanks. Mom and dad use indoor/outdoor carpet for “Sarah” their female Bearded Dragon.

Leopard Geckos should be fed insects such as crickets, meal worms and grasshoppers (from a pesticide free area), although any insect that is smaller in size than the width of your pet's head can be considered. Pinkies (baby mice without fur) can be fed occasionally but they tend to cause your lizard to become fat. However, breeding females can be fed pinkies regularly as it helps them produce healthy eggs. All insects given to your Leopard Gecko should be dusted with vitamin and calcium powder every second feeding for adults and every feeding for juveniles and babies. Feed babies and juveniles every day and adult Leopard Geckos every two or three days. You should also consider gut loading your insects with fruit, vegetables, grains, oats and seeds to ensure that your Gecko gets proper nutrition. Do not leave live insects in your pet's tank after he has finished eating. They could bite the lizard and cause an infection. Your tank should also contain a shallow water dish which should be cleaned daily to prevent algae and mold growth.

Leopard Geckos live about 15 years, although a few will live longer, with the oldest recorded one living to the age of 25 years. Breeding females usually have a shorter lifespan.

Your Leopard Gecko's tank should be equipped with a heat lamp at one end and a cooler area at the other. The heat lamp should be situated so that your lizard cannot come into contact with it as the lizard would be badly burned if contact is made. One area of your tank should have high humidity as this aids your lizard when he sheds his skin, which occurs frequently when he is growing and from one to three times a year when full growth has be attained. If the skin is too dry when shedding begins, the skin sticks to the body, particularly to the legs and toes. It could then restrict the flow of blood to these extremities resulting in loss of these digits.

Your Leopard Gecko will grow to a length of 8 or 9 inches, although some have grown as long as 11 inches. Do not put two male Leopard Geckos in the same tank as they they will fight. Because Leopard Geckos are nocturnal creatures, your tank should have hiding structures in both the cool and hot ends of the tank. These hiding places allow your lizard to sleep in a “safe” place during the day. DO NOT put a “hot rock” in your Leopard Gecko's tank as it could cause your lizard to be badly burned.

Leopard Geckos can be picked up and held, just be sure that you don't pick them up by the head or tail as they will panic. The best way to do it is to slowly slide you hand under the Gecko and slowly lift it up. Leopard Geckos seldom bite unless they are seriously provoked. Try not to move too fast when near your Leopard Gecko's tank so that you don't frighten him. If you would like to have an easy to care for lizard as a pet, then a Leopard Gecko is a great choice.

Until next time,

Teia

Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Building Housing for Pet Rabbits


Ask most people about pets and you will probably hear a response that talks about dogs or cats. In more rare circumstances a pet owner will be a fancier of guinea pigs, hamsters, gerbils or even more exotic animals such as snakes, spiders or lizards. But there is a growing trend toward smaller mammals, including ferrets, rats and especially rabbits.

Rabbits are unusual in our society because they are one of the few animals that are viewed as food by some people and as pets by others. The number of homes that have indoor rabbits has been increasing at such a pace that there now exists a House Rabbit Society which rescues abandoned and abused rabbits and distributes useful information on keeping rabbits safely and in a healthy manner within a home situation. In Canada, rabbits have been kept as pets for more than 35 years, but people in other countries are quickly learning that rabbits make great pets. They are trainable and they are quiet, which is a big plus for someone living in an apartment.

One feature about a rabbit that interferes with them enjoying free run within a home is their propensity for chewing. Although rabbits can be successfully trained to use a litter box, it is more difficult for them to be convinced not to chew such things as furniture legs and electrical wires. This is why many owners of house rabbits seek an indoor hutch or rabbit cage in which their long-eared pets may be kept when they cannot be supervised. Mom and dad's younger daughter had a pet rabbit, called “Amy,” in the early 1980's. She was very affectionate, but you had to watch her very carefully when she was loose because she loved to chew electrical wires. Extension cords and lamp cords were her favourites. If you took your eyes off her for a second, she would snip an electrical cord with her razor sharp teeth. Fearing for her safety, all electrical cords in the room in which she was free to run were removed. An indoor hutch was made for her so that when there was no one there to supervise her, she had a safe place to live.

According to the House Rabbit Society, a rabbit's housing should provide several things. Rabbits need to be able to fully stretch out in all directions. They require at least two levels, so they may jump up and down for exercise. They need a supply of food, especially hay, as well as water. And, of course, a litter box is needed.

A recent trend in building indoor rabbit hutches is to make a "bunny condo" out of modular storage cubes. Many hardware and home furnishing stores sell 14-inch wire cubes for making modular storage units. These cubes can be used to construct a multilevel rabbit house that provides sufficient space for all the requirements that are specified by the House Rabbit Society.

Building a rabbit condo that is three cubes wide, three cubes high and two cubes deep will create a space measuring more than 28 cubic feet in capacity. This is far more spacious than the average dog carrier that many people use for housing their indoor rabbits.

When building a rabbit condo, several other considerations should be kept in mind. The bare wire floor should never be used by itself, but should be covered with a material such as plywood. For ease in cleaning, covering the floor part of each cube with vinyl tiles, linoleum or rubber mat material is recommended. However, it should not be too slippery a surface, as rabbit feet were designed for hopping on natural earth and grass, not on smooth artificial surfaces.

Numerous plans for rabbit condos are now available across the Internet and most of them would provide all the safety, security and living space a house rabbit needs. Still, they cannot be locked away all the time. Even a rabbit in a fancy condo needs to get out into the house for some good exercise including running and jumping for a few hours every day.

Until next time,

Teia