Just back from the groomer.
It is vital that your dog is brushed regularly for several reasons:
1. To avoid discomfort – matted hair is uncomfortable and leads to “hot spots” - areas where air cannot get to the skin and thus skin irritation and infection frequently set in.
2. To help eliminate skin disorders (see above).
3. To prevent an infestation of parasites. If parasites get onto your dog, you will usually see evidence of them when brushing the dog. The earlier you detect the parasites the quicker you can eliminate them.
4. To stop smells from developing. Debris, dirt, bits of food and matted hair, all of which smell, are removed during a thorough brushing.
5. To avoid extra charges at the Veterinarian and the Groomer. Many veterinarians and groomers charge extra when working on dogs with dirty matted hair. Mom and dad's older daughter took her two Cocker Spaniels to a groomer for a haircut and when she went to pay the bill she was shocked to find that the cost was $300 per dog because the groomer had to remove some matted hair from each dog. Needless to say, she no longer uses that groomer. However, most groomers have a $25 to $50 surcharge for dealing with dogs that have matted hair.
6. To remove loose hair, reducing the amount floating around the house.
To ensure that your dog's coat is in tip-top condition and to maintain a healthy pet, it is essential that the ears, eyes, coat, skin and anal area of the dog are checked regularly.
The first steps to brushing the dog:
1. Ensure you have a steady and non-slip work top or table. A rubber bath mat placed on a firm table will do. Do not use a towel as this will slip and slide. Having a firm surface that the dog feels comfortable on will prevent accidents and it will alleviate some of the stress of a thorough brushing.
2. Make sure that the dog knows that this is the place where misbehaving is not allowed. Start if possible as a puppy with regular short sessions. The more comfortable the dog feels on the brushing (grooming) table, the less problems you will have.
3. Make this an enjoyable and pleasurable experience (for both of you) but not a game.
4. The dog must learn through repetition, correction and praise. Do not smack the dog, use voice control.
5.Always reward the dog after brushing, either by treat or physical attention.
6. Take the dog outside to relieve itself before you begin the brushing session and again after you have completed the brushing.
The recommended frequency of brushing your dog's coat varies according to coat texture and length. Seek the advice of an experienced breeder or groomer. As a guide, every dog should be brushed at least once a week, although there are many breeds that need brushing three times a week! Unfortunately, some long haired dogs need to be brushed daily.
Does and Don'ts when brushing ALL types of coats:
1.Do not bathe the dog before thoroughly brushing out, as this tightens any knots present, also shampoo will be difficult to rinse out. Always remember that to prevent dry skin and to keep the natural oils in the dog's hair, restrict the number of baths you give your dog. My groomer recommends a bath only before getting my hair cut unless I get in the mud and get real dirty, then an extra bath can be given. Also remember that dogs require dog shampoo and conditioner as it has the proper PH for dog hair.
2.Do start brushing from the back and work toward the front as this is less sensitive for the skin.
3.Do be systematic, so that you do not miss any areas.
4.Do always hold limbs at a natural angle, no matter how awkward a position the knot or mat may be in.
5.Do remember that with most breeds there is the undercoat to brush too, not just the surface of the coat.
6.Do be firm, but do not smack your dog. Praise once corrected and obeyed.
Techniques of Brushing:
With long-haired dogs, or dense and curly non-shedding haired dogs, be aware that by brushing just on the surface of the coat you will not prevent matting. There is hair all the way down to the skin that needs attention.
Begin at the bottom of the back leg and, using your non brushing hand, lift the hair up and slicker brush underneath, bit by bit, gradually brushing hair down from where you are holding it.
Remember that there are four sides to a leg, front, back, outside and inside. Having worked your way up the leg, start on the belly and use the same method on the body. Always check with a comb, after thoroughly brushing, to check for hidden knots or undetected matted hair.
Take care when brushing near the eyes. The pins of the brush can scratch the eyes and cause permanent damage, sometimes loss of sight. The hock and the belly are also sensitive areas when brushing. Special attention should be given to the zones that tend to mat - underarms, inside legs, behind ears, feathering on thick coated dogs and the ear hair of floppy eared, long-haired dogs.
Basic Tools for Grooming:
Smooth-haired dogs will require a rubber brush to brush against the lie of the coat to loosen hairs. A bristle brush to remove dead skin and surface dirt and also stimulate circulation. A chamois cloth should be used to polish the coat for added sheen. Be gentle, you are not polishing your car!
Short coated dogs will require a slicker brush and a bristle brush. Also use a slicker brush and a bristle brush on long silky coats, which will additionally require a comb to test for remaining knots and matted areas.
Curly, non-shedding coats will require a pin brush and comb.
Until next time,
Teia
PS. My mom and dad brush me and give me emergency baths, but I get my hair cut and my regular bath from a professional groomer. You may want to consider this arrangement too, especially if you have reasonably priced professional groomers in your area. Giving a dog a nice looking hair cut requires a lot of practice. A good quality dog clipper is quite expensive. The clipper blades need to be professionally sharpened on a regular basis and will probably have to be replaced a couple of times during your dog's lifetime.
