Tips for Bathing Your Cat

Cats normally do not need help getting and staying clean. They are fastidious about their cleanliness and spend much of their day primping and preening. Cats learn from a very young age to stay clean, as the mother always teaches her young the art of bathing. Cat owners rarely need to give their cats a bath, however, there are some situations where you may find it necessary to bathe kitty. You never know when your cat will get so dirty that she needs a little extra help. If your cat is afflicted with skin allergies or has a flea infestation, you might need to bathe your cat. Sick and older cats may have a difficult time keeping clean, too. You will find that your cat probably resists getting a bath, but you can do it if you are prepared.

Where to bathe your cat.

The best place to bathe your cat is in a small, enclosed room. If you have a sink in your laundry room, that would work perfectly. A deep bathroom sink would also do the trick. The idea is to get your cat in a small area to help him or her feel safer during the process. Another idea is to use a baby tub and place it inside your own bathtub. This might cause an aching back on your part, but may be just the thing for your cat.

Get Your Supplies

You want to make sure that you have everything you need on hand before you begin. It will be almost impossible to stop what you are doing with a struggling cat to run and get a towel or shampoo. You will need several old towels and cat shampoo and possibly cat hair conditioner. Human shampoo, even baby shampoo does not have the right ph value for your cat, so if you think there may be a chance that you could have to bathe your cat, buy cat shampoo and conditioner ahead of time. If you get caught unprepared and you do not have cat shampoo, baby shampoo can be used, but do NOT use it on a regular basis as you could cause your cat to develop skin problems. If you do not have a hand wand attached to your shower, or a removable one you can attach to the tap you are using to bathe your cat, you will need a cup to wet your cat’s hair before applying the shampoo and to rinse off the shampoo. As an alternative, you might even consider using a turkey-basting tool to rinse under the chin, around the neck and between the legs. In addition, if your cat’s fur is matted, you should consider removing these mats before beginning the bath. Trying to brush or comb mats out of a wet cat is very difficult to achieve.

Get the Bath Ready

When you have gotten all of your supplies where you need them and removed any mats from your cat’s fur, you will want to prepare the bath. Lukewarm water works best. Think of the temperature you would use to bathe an infant. That is what you need when you wash your cat. Put about four or five inches of water in the tub or sink. You do not need a lot of water when you bathe your cat--just enough to get the cat wet and do the first rinse. It is also a good idea to place a non-skid mat or folded bath towel in the bottom of the sink or tub before you begin filling it with water. This prevents the cat from slipping on the bottom of the sink or tub.

Ease your Cat into the Water

It is now time for the hard part. You have to get your cat and ease him or her into the water. This may sound easier than it is. Some cats may struggle with you more than others may. Only you know your cat’s personality. The best way to go about doing this is to lower your cat into the water by placing one hand under the cat’s belly and one hand firmly, but gently on the cat’s back. If your cat is still struggling, you might want to wrap a towel around it to prevent scratches. You may be surprised by your cat’s reaction. Some cats will sit there quietly and let you work. Others will be scared and will try to run from you. You will get wet, but you may try holding the cat’s body close to your own while bathing so he or she feels more secure. Never raise your voice or move too fast, as this can send your cat into a frenzy.

Begin the Bath

You can use vegetable oil if you need to remove sticky substances from your cat’s fur, but use it before giving the cat a bath, as the oil will leave a harmless residue on the cat’s fur. After your cat is situated in the water, you can begin to bathe. Work quickly, but gently. The best method for bathing your cat is to start with the head and work your way to its tail. Be careful not to get water or shampoo in your cat’s ears or eyes. If you are treating for fleas, then you will want to follow the directions on the flea shampoo at this point. Wet your cat’s fur before applying the shampoo. You will only need a very small amount of shampoo. If you get too much, you will have to rinse longer. Once your cat has been bathed and all of the shampoo has been rinsed off, check the skin to see if it shows any signs of flaking or dry skin. If dry skin is present, you should use a cat hair conditioner to alleviate this dry skin condition. If you use a conditioner, make sure that it is thoroughly rinsed off to prevent a rash or allergic reaction. The first step in drying your cat is to use a towel to get the majority of the water off. Then, if your cat is not scared of blow driers, you can use this to finish the drying process, after the excess water has been towelled off. Be careful not to set the blow drier too hot. If you do not use a blow drier, then use another dry towel to finish the drying process. When the cat feels dry to the touch, take a comb and carefully comb its hair to ensure all tangles are removed.

If you cannot give your cat a bath, check to see if any of your local groomers or veterinarians provide this service. Depending on where you live, this service could be quite expensive, so you should consider checking around before you need this service to see who provides the best deal. Ask the service provider to give you several references you can check to ascertain the quality of the service and the reaction of the reference’s cat to that service.

Until next time,

Teia

Tips, Techniques and Equipment for Brushing Your Dog

Just back from the groomer.

It is vital that your dog is brushed regularly for several reasons:

1. To avoid discomfort – matted hair is uncomfortable and leads to “hot spots” - areas where air cannot get to the skin and thus skin irritation and infection frequently set in.

2. To help eliminate skin disorders (see above).

3. To prevent an infestation of parasites. If parasites get onto your dog, you will usually see evidence of them when brushing the dog. The earlier you detect the parasites the quicker you can eliminate them.

4. To stop smells from developing. Debris, dirt, bits of food and matted hair, all of which smell, are removed during a thorough brushing.

5. To avoid extra charges at the Veterinarian and the Groomer. Many veterinarians and groomers charge extra when working on dogs with dirty matted hair. Mom and dad's older daughter took her two Cocker Spaniels to a groomer for a haircut and when she went to pay the bill she was shocked to find that the cost was $300 per dog because the groomer had to remove some matted hair from each dog. Needless to say, she no longer uses that groomer. However, most groomers have a $25 to $50 surcharge for dealing with dogs that have matted hair.

6. To remove loose hair, reducing the amount floating around the house.

To ensure that your dog's coat is in tip-top condition and to maintain a healthy pet, it is essential that the ears, eyes, coat, skin and anal area of the dog are checked regularly.

The first steps to brushing the dog:

1. Ensure you have a steady and non-slip work top or table. A rubber bath mat placed on a firm table will do. Do not use a towel as this will slip and slide. Having a firm surface that the dog feels comfortable on will prevent accidents and it will alleviate some of the stress of a thorough brushing.

2. Make sure that the dog knows that this is the place where misbehaving is not allowed. Start if possible as a puppy with regular short sessions. The more comfortable the dog feels on the brushing (grooming) table, the less problems you will have.

3. Make this an enjoyable and pleasurable experience (for both of you) but not a game.

4. The dog must learn through repetition, correction and praise. Do not smack the dog, use voice control.

5.Always reward the dog after brushing, either by treat or physical attention.

6. Take the dog outside to relieve itself before you begin the brushing session and again after you have completed the brushing.

The recommended frequency of brushing your dog's coat varies according to coat texture and length. Seek the advice of an experienced breeder or groomer. As a guide, every dog should be brushed at least once a week, although there are many breeds that need brushing three times a week! Unfortunately, some long haired dogs need to be brushed daily.

Does and Don'ts when brushing ALL types of coats:

1.Do not bathe the dog before thoroughly brushing out, as this tightens any knots present, also shampoo will be difficult to rinse out. Always remember that to prevent dry skin and to keep the natural oils in the dog's hair, restrict the number of baths you give your dog. My groomer recommends a bath only before getting my hair cut unless I get in the mud and get real dirty, then an extra bath can be given. Also remember that dogs require dog shampoo and conditioner as it has the proper PH for dog hair.

2.Do start brushing from the back and work toward the front as this is less sensitive for the skin.

3.Do be systematic, so that you do not miss any areas.

4.Do always hold limbs at a natural angle, no matter how awkward a position the knot or mat may be in.

5.Do remember that with most breeds there is the undercoat to brush too, not just the surface of the coat.

6.Do be firm, but do not smack your dog. Praise once corrected and obeyed.

Techniques of Brushing:

With long-haired dogs, or dense and curly non-shedding haired dogs, be aware that by brushing just on the surface of the coat you will not prevent matting. There is hair all the way down to the skin that needs attention.

Begin at the bottom of the back leg and, using your non brushing hand, lift the hair up and slicker brush underneath, bit by bit, gradually brushing hair down from where you are holding it.

Remember that there are four sides to a leg, front, back, outside and inside. Having worked your way up the leg, start on the belly and use the same method on the body. Always check with a comb, after thoroughly brushing, to check for hidden knots or undetected matted hair.

Take care when brushing near the eyes. The pins of the brush can scratch the eyes and cause permanent damage, sometimes loss of sight. The hock and the belly are also sensitive areas when brushing. Special attention should be given to the zones that tend to mat - underarms, inside legs, behind ears, feathering on thick coated dogs and the ear hair of floppy eared, long-haired dogs.

Basic Tools for Grooming:

Smooth-haired dogs will require a rubber brush to brush against the lie of the coat to loosen hairs. A bristle brush to remove dead skin and surface dirt and also stimulate circulation. A chamois cloth should be used to polish the coat for added sheen. Be gentle, you are not polishing your car!

Short coated dogs will require a slicker brush and a bristle brush. Also use a slicker brush and a bristle brush on long silky coats, which will additionally require a comb to test for remaining knots and matted areas.

Curly, non-shedding coats will require a pin brush and comb.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. My mom and dad brush me and give me emergency baths, but I get my hair cut and my regular bath from a professional groomer. You may want to consider this arrangement too, especially if you have reasonably priced professional groomers in your area. Giving a dog a nice looking hair cut requires a lot of practice. A good quality dog clipper is quite expensive. The clipper blades need to be professionally sharpened on a regular basis and will probably have to be replaced a couple of times during your dog's lifetime.

Why You Should Train Your Golden Retriever to Stay

Most of the problems you will have with your Golden Retriever will be caused by a combination of his intelligence, energy and desire to please. It is important to train your Golden to stay because his excess energy can cause him to run off in an instant if he gets loose. It's not that he wants to escape, it's just that his desire to romp overcomes his desire to stay with you.

One of the first steps in training your Golden is to establish you as the "alpha dog" or "pack leader.” Because the Golden Retriever is a fairly large dog, having him properly trained is especially important as many people are afraid of large dogs and will shy away from an uncontrollable over exuberant dog. It doesn't matter that Goldens are not aggressive dogs. Good training will make your dog more welcome wherever you go.

Pay attention to your dog and make eye contact often. When your dog does something right, look him in the eye, give him verbal praise and offer a treat, in that order. For example, when your dog sits (whether by command or not), make eye contact, say "good sit" and give him a treat.

Goldens are very sensitive dogs. They do not do well with scolding or punishment. It's better to identify the good behavior and reward that, rather than use negativity.

Your dog can learn to stay from any position, lying down, sitting or standing. Eventually you will want to train him to stay from all of these positions.

With your dog on a leash, stand to his right, place your hand in front of his face, palm toward him and say "stay.” Step away from your dog with your right foot first as stepping with the left foot encourages the dog to move too. Take two steps, turn and face him.

Give him the hand signal again, hand right in front of his face with the fingers pointing up and repeat "stay.” Return to his side and say "ok." Then say "good stay" and give him a treat.

Over time, increase the length of time you hold up your hand and increase the distance you walk away from him. Eventually, walk the full length of the leash away, hold up your hand and repeat "stay.”

Always return to his side. Reward him if he continues to do as he is told.

Starting with “little baby steps” that you can reward with a "good stay" and a treat are much more valuable at first than trying unsuccessfully for a longer time or distance.

Are you worried about spoiling your dog with too many rewards? Are you concerned that he won't obey without them? As long as you never show the treat to your dog before he exhibits the desired behavior, you don't need to worry. A rule of thumb with Goldens, since they are so sensitive and so eager to please, is pick your battles and bribe shamelessly.

You can overdo training, so keep each session fairly short. If you can, repeat training sessions several times a day. Use reward-based training or, if you prefer, clicker-based training, rather than discipline training for your Golden. As previously mentioned Golden Retrievers do not respond well to discipline based training.

It is very important that your Golden Retriever learn the sit and stay commands thoroughly. A Golden Retriever is a fairly large dog and it is much better if they sit rather than jump up and try to lick the face of a child. Young children are easily knocked over by happy Goldens!

When you feel that your dog has learned to stay well, vary the circumstances. Make sure he can stay from a sitting, laying, or standing position. Practice inside and outside, around other dogs and other people. Try to distract him with a rolling ball or have someone else call him. You aren't being mean and you are not trying to trick him. You are simply helping him to understand better what you mean by "stay” and he will be deliriously happy when he knows he's got it right.

Here's a bonus tip specific to Golden Retrievers, but you be the judge if it's appropriate for your dog, retriever or not. Retrievers like carrying things in their mouths; many of them have favorite toys they don't like to be without. If your dog is having trouble concentrating during a training session, you can try letting him hold his favorite stuffed toy in his mouth. If he thinks it's playtime, it won't work, but often it calms him and gives him a focus. A friend, Rick, lets his Golden, “Emma,” carry one of his gloves. This keeps his smell close and makes her more responsive to his commands.

With these few tips and techniques under your belt, your training sessions with your sunny-tempered Golden can be quite fun and pleasurable for both of you.

Until next time,

Teia

Tips for Playing with Your Cat

As a dog, I do not know a lot about cats, but I’ve had some interactions with them and this is what I have found out.

Much like humans and dogs, cats become bored if they do not have enough stimulating activities in their life. Boredom can sometimes be the root of feline behavior problems such as neurotic chewing, compulsive grooming, over eating and in some cases aggression.

As little as 15 minutes of quality play with your cat will prove to be beneficial when it comes to improving your cat's mental health and physical well-being. In addition, playing with your cat regularly will help to strengthen the bond between the two of you.

Following are some simple fun ideas to add a bit of excitement to your cat's every day routine.

FIND THE TREASURE GAME

Stuff one of your cat’s favorite toys in between the cushions of the couch, or under a pillow. Your kitty will enjoy this hunting game. Once the toy has been retrieved, try another hiding place.

PAPER BAGS (without handles as kitty could get the handles tangled around her neck)

Cats love little places where they think nobody can see them. Get out a paper bag open it up and watch how much fun your cat has with it. Your cat will love playing inside it, running in and out of it and jumping on top of it. As a variation, you can even cut a few holes in the bag and put in a favorite toy. This is sure to keep him or her busy.

THE SWATTING GAME

If you don't have a cat toy which you can dangle in front of your cat, create one. Simply tie a string to the end of a stick and attach an object to the string. You can try a rolled up piece of paper, a feather or a small toy. Cats love this swatting game.

THE TOILET PAPER ROLL GAME

Make sure the toilet paper roll has no toilet paper on it. Your cat will bat it around, pick it up and carry it, claw it and possibly even chew it a little (make sure your cat doesn’t ingest the paper as it could make him sick). As a variation, you could also put an object in it, such as a solid ball that has a bit of weight to it and then tape up both ends of the roll. This gives it a wobble when it is batted around.

TISSUE IN A BOX GAME

Your cat will enjoy taking the tissues out. This could make quite a mess, but your cat will have great fun doing it.

CHASE THE LIGHT GAME

Take CAUTION if using a laser light. You should NEVER SHINE IT IN THE EYES!!! A flashlight is a much safer light and it will provide hours of fun for your cat.

Your cat will love to chase the light around the floors and walls; it's a great challenge for kitty and gives your cat a workout too.

BOUNCY BALLS GAME

They are always BIG fun for your cat! Use a small ball, about one inch in diameter. This will allow your cat to pick it up.

SOCKS GAME

Your cat will surely enjoy a stuffed sock! Stuff an old sock with different sized cotton balls or wads of crumpled newspaper and a bit of catnip, and watch your cat go "wild" chasing it around. Some cats even "wrestle" with it by holding it in their front paws and kicking it with their back paws.

PING PONG BALLS GAME

A couple of ping pong balls dropped in your empty bathtub is another great way to keep your cat entertained. Only do this if you have a non slip coating on the bottom of your tub. You wouldn’t want kitty to slip and suffer an injury.

ICE CUBES GAME
Slide an ice cube back and forth across your kitchen floor. Your cat will chase it and begin to swat at the ice cube. You now have a game of feline ice hockey. This game gets messy because the ice will start to melt and leave little bits of water on your floor, so make sure that you have a floor that is not damaged by water.

These are games you and your can enjoy together. One session a day is a necessity, but two or three play sessions a day, preferably at times when your cat tends to be most active, will keep him or her happy and fit.

Note! These homemade toys and games should only be played by kitty when you are there. Don’t leave these toys around when you are not home as kitty could tear them up and ingest the pieces with possible disastrous results.

Have fun!

Until next time,

Teia