Friday, May 8, 2009

Unusual Pets - Turtles


Turtles can be a lot of fun to own as pets. It's amusing to watch them as they go about their daily activities in the home you provide for them.

However, you'll no doubt find it a lot more interesting living with your pet turtle if you know something about the particular species of turtle you purchased. For example, different kinds of turtles differ in size, preferred environment, coloration and living habits. The type of turtle that likes to live around water enjoys taking an invigorating swim and basking on a rock. When not swimming, your turtle might enjoy resting or walking slowly along searching for more food to eat. Of course, large desert turtles have entirely different lifestyles. And some species like snapping turtles can give you a nasty bite. So, make sure that you know what type of turtle you have, then you can do research, to learn all about it.

Turtles have some special strengths. For example, they see and smell surprisingly well. It's a good thing they do, because those senses help them to find their food. They don't have teeth but have sharp serrated ridges where teeth usually are located. Also, the edges of their beak are razor sharp.

Strange as it may seem, turtles experience something similar to humans as far as their emotions go. For example, if a turtle is unhappy, it withdraws physically into its shell and acts lazy. When people are depressed, they may withdraw into their "shells" too, emotionally similar to how a turtle withdraws.

Naturally, you want your turtle to live as long as possible. Therefore, exercise care in feeding it. Turtles can live for many years if they are cared for properly. Since some turtle foods are actually harmful, be sure to spend time researching what foods to feed your specific kind of turtle, because different types of turtles require different diets.

Many turtles should only eat vegetables. However, there are even some vegetables to avoid feeding your turtle, such as rhubarb leaves and spinach. Also, don't just feed your turtle lettuce because it doesn’t have enough nutrients to make it worthwhile. Be sure that you do not give your turtle salty or fatty foods, including processed meats. Also avoid feeding uncooked chicken or turkey to your pet turtle since raw poultry can be infected with salmonella bacteria and that could make your turtle sick. If your turtle is a meat eater, give him uncooked lean ground beef and remove any he has not eaten after one half hour as it starts to decay at that time and bacterium start to multiply.

Turtles can be intriguing and amusing pets, but you need to do your research, so that you can be a good pet owner for your little pal. Then you and your pet turtle can enjoy sharing one another's lives hopefully for a long time.

Until next time

Teia

Thursday, May 7, 2009

How to Care for Your Dog’s Teeth


Just like humans, dogs can get cavities if their teeth are not properly taken care of. Cavities are not as common in dogs as they are in humans. However, there are some things which can increase the likelihood of your dog developing tooth problems. If you live in an area with hard water, it is more likely that your dog's teeth will develop tartar deposits. Additionally, tooth problems are more likely if your dog eats mostly soft foods, because these foods leave debris in gum pockets at the base of the teeth, leading to infections. These not only cause problems for your dog's teeth - studies show that a whopping 98% of cases of bad breath in dogs is caused by periodontal disease, which is the result of tartar build-up and gum infections.

The best way of preventing these problems is with regular brushing of your dog's teeth. Even if you have a great relationship with your dog, staring into its mouth and seeing rows of shining, sharp dog teeth can be intimidating. But, by gradually getting your dog used to the idea of having you handling her mouth, you'll be able to clean her teeth and take care of her mouth without too many problems.

If you have a young dog, it is much easier to get started. Even if your dog is a few years old, you can still get him used to the idea, but you may find that it takes a bit longer before your dog is willing to let you brush his teeth. To get your dog used to having his mouth handled, start by lifting his lips and looking at his teeth - do this two or three times a week, and each time, give him a small treat after you have finished. This will help both you and your dog relax when you are handling his mouth and your dog will be more comfortable with the process when he knows there will be a treat when it's over.

Once your dog is used to having her mouth handled, it's time to start brushing. There are a few simple items you will need to brush your dog's teeth, which you can obtain from a pet store or from your veterinarian. You'll need a dog tooth brush (a wash cloth or gauze pad wrapped around your finger also works well) and tooth paste which has been formulated for animal use. Human tooth paste should not be used for brushing dog teeth, because dogs cannot spit and human tooth paste is not safe to swallow (some of the ingredients in your tooth paste are used in oven cleaners too). Your dog will most likely swallow whatever you use to clean her teeth, so it is important to buy tooth paste which has been formulated specifically for dogs. In addition, dog tooth pastes come in several different flavors, so if you can find a flavor your dog likes, it will be that much easier to brush her teeth.

Once you have the right tools, brushing dog teeth is very similar to brushing your own. If you have a large dog, the easiest position is on the floor, with your dog in front of you. With smaller breeds or puppies, you can hold the dog in your lap. To start brushing, lift your dog's upper lip and brush the teeth in a circular motion, making sure to brush at the base of each tooth where it meets the gum line. Also make sure to brush the back molars, because these teeth are more likely than the front teeth to develop problems. To get your dog used to having his teeth brushed, do only one or two teeth the first few times. As he becomes more comfortable with brushing, you can brush more teeth in each session. Always give your dog a small treat after each session.

Brushing should be done twice a week. If your dog's teeth have a lot of tartar build-up they'll need to be cleaned by your vet - this is a fairly quick procedure but it does require anesthesia. In addition to regular brushing, feeding your dog dry dog food or hard biscuits every day is the best way of slowing down tartar build-up. Soft foods and meat should be given as treat foods only. As well as this, provide your dog with rawhide bones or hard toys to chew on - this will help keep his teeth and gums in good condition and it will also reduce the risk of your dog chewing on furniture or destroying your property. I do not recommend it, but if you give your dog bones, do not cook them. Cooked bones can splinter and these splinters can cause your dog to choke, or if swallowed they can perforate the stomach, intestine or bowel. Choose a bone based on the size of your dog - make sure you get a large bone if your dog is a large breed, so that there is no possibility of accidently swallowing it. Raw bones are much more difficult for your dog to chew, so they give the teeth a good workout without getting much bone into your dog. Note! Never give your dog poultry bones as they tend to splinter easily with deadly results.

With a little care and attention, you can help keep your dog's teeth in tip-top condition for years to come.

Until next time,

Teia

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

How to Buy a Dog From a Breeder


The first thing to decide before buying a dog is what type and size you want. Many factors are important when buying, but be sure to consider what breed is suitable for you and your family. Some breeds require a lot of daily exercise and others require daily grooming. Remember also that different breeds may have genetic health issues to watch out for.

Larger dog breeds can be susceptible to hip dysplasia. This is a degenerative disease that affects the hip joint. When a dog with hip dysplasia matures, the hip joint and socket lose their ability to bear the animal’s body weight. They will have a hard time running or walking and even standing may become difficult. The only cure for this condition is surgery and even that is not very successful. My mom and dad had two dogs with hip dysplasia. The first one was a female Bichon Frise. She was operated on and it changed her whole personality. She went from an energetic puppy with a limp to a dog that only moved when it had to. Their second dog with hip dysplasia was a German Shepard cross. He did well until he was eight, with the help of an Aspirin on days when his hips were sore.

Smaller breeds of dogs can have genetic concerns of their own. Dogs that are in the "Toy" breed category, like the Pug, the Pekinese and the Lassa Apso are susceptible to breathing problems. These dogs have a short muzzle (or nose), which does not leave much room for sinus and nasal development. This is a condition that is often not evident in early development.

So, what should you look for when buying a dog? INFORMATION is the key word! After you decide what type of dog you want, seek out people who already own this type of dog. Maybe somebody you know already owns one? Get the word out that you are looking to buy a dog. Talk to people and gather as much information about the breed as you can. If you go to a pet store, talk with people. Pet owners love to talk about their pets.

Do research on the internet about your dog breed and print out whatever information you can find. Buy books and read about the bread you are interested in. Know that it is extremely important to become an educated consumer BEFORE you buy your dog from a breeder.

Finally, when you talk with dog breeders, ask any questions that come to mind. Honest dog breeders will be more than happy to talk with you and answer every question. Note the condition of the dog’s environment. Are the dog pens clean? Are the puppies well cared for? Can you see the mother and father? What type of puppy food are they being feed? Have the puppies had their shots? Reputable breeders love their animals and go to great lengths to provide a proper "home like" environment. Puppies are products of their surroundings. A good, clean environment will surely be reflected in a dog's playfulness.

Beware of breeders who are interested only in making money. They generally don't pay much attention to their dog’s emotional needs and health concerns. Also, they may inbreed their dogs and this can trigger severe health issues. AVOID THESE BREEDERS!

Some breeders may offer a 72-hour guarantee. This allows you time to take your puppy to a vet for inspection. If any health issues are identified, contact the breeder and get your questions answered.

Good, honest breeders care for their dogs and it shows in their surroundings. There are no guarantees that you will always have a normal, perfect puppy, but you greatly increase the odds when you do your homework first!

Mom and dad have gotten dogs from breeders, pet stores and the Humane Society. They have loved them all, but each source has produced both good dogs and dogs with problems. Sometimes, in spite of all your research, your heart takes over from your head and you just have to get that cute one that bounded over and licked your hand. In those cases, your affection for the dog overcomes any short comings that it may have.

Until next time,

Teia

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Horse Vaccinations


Vaccinations are an important part of keeping your horse healthy. Just like humans and dogs, horses need vaccinations to help reduce the incidence of diseases too. The more horses your horse comes into contact with, the more you need to make sure your horse is protected against infectious diseases. The following guidelines are recommended by the American Association of Equine Practitioners, the AAEP. The AAEP is a group of veterinarians who specialize in horse medicine.

Below are the most important vaccines for a pleasure horse to receive as recommended by the AAEP. The first four recommendations are considered basic required vaccines and the last three vaccines are optional.

1. Equine Encephalomyelitis (Eastern and Western) vaccination is recommended once per year in the spring. Encephalomyelitis is a disease carried by mosquitoes and is found in all 48 continental states and most Canadian provinces. It is a virus that affects the nervous system. Clinical signs range from fever to weakness and possibly to sudden death. Certain areas have a higher incidence of this disease than others.

2. Another mandatory vaccine is Tetanus, this is recommended once a year in the spring. Tetanus is a disease caused by bacteria called Clostridium. Normally this disease is seen in penetrating injuries, like stepping on a nail. The clinical signs are muscular stiffness. The horse is unable to move, and death could result if not treated.

3. Equine Rhinopneumonitis is recommended one to two times per year and prior to horse shows. Rhinopneumonitis is caused by a herpes virus. Clinical signs are typically abortions and pneumonia. This virus spreads rapidly between horses so vaccination is a must.

4. Equine Influenza vaccine is recommended once to twice a year or prior to shows as well. This virus can cause severe pneumonia in horses. Like Rhinopneumonitis, this too spreads rapidly between horses. Often, if there is a known outbreak of this disease, horse shows will be cancelled.

These last three vaccines should be considered only if your vet recommends them. Typically the decision to vaccinate for the last two diseases is done if there is this disease present in the region.

5. Streptococcus Equi, also know as Strangles, is often given as an intranasal vaccine. Almost all horse owners are familiar with Strangles. This disease is caused by a bacterium that makes the horses lymph nodes swell up, making it difficult for the horse to breathe, hence the name Strangles.

6. Potomac Horse Fever vaccine is another optional vaccination. This disease primarily happens to horses who liver near water. The bacterium that causes this disease is linked to snails and the clinical signs include colic and laminitis.

7. Recently on the Canadian prairies, particularly in the Province of Saskatchewan, Anthrax has shown up because of the extremely wet conditions in some parts of these provinces. If you happen to have any livestock and you live in this area, consult your veterinarian about vaccinations for this deadly disease.

By following the basic vaccine protocol for pleasure horses from the AAEP, or one recommended by your local veterinarian, you can keep your horse healthy. Be sure to consult with your veterinarian before starting any vaccines. I also recommend that you get your vaccines from your vet and not by buying them over the Internet. Like human drugs and vaccines, horse vaccines purchased over the Internet may be cheaper, but you have no idea what they contain. Just to save a few dollars do you really want to put your horse at risk of premature death from some unknown concoction put together by an Internet hustler? Your veterinarian is a highly trained professional with the knowledge and training to prescribe the right medicine for the situation involved.

Until next time,

Teia

Monday, May 4, 2009

Lameness in Your Horse


Lameness in a horse is one of the most common health problems seen in horses. Two of the most common causes of horse lameness are called laminitis (inflammation of the laminae of the foot) and navicular syndrome (inflammation or degeneration of the navicular bone or its surrounding tissue). By learning about these conditions you can catch them earlier and therefore prevent further damage.

When dealing with lameness in a horse, you have to be observant. Often horse lameness is temporary and goes away with just rest. Other times the lameness can be quite severe and further veterinary care is needed.

Lameness is often seen when the horse is trotting. If your horse is lame, you will notice a different gait to the horse. There are several signs to watch out for when dealing with a suspected lame horse.

Signs of lameness include - trotting unevenly, a reluctance to bear weight on a leg, throwing the head when trotting, and a reluctance to move.

If you notice any of these signs you should contact your veterinarian immediately, and don't ride your horse. While you may be able to tell which leg is affecting the horse, the veterinarian can identify the exact location that is causing the problem.

The veterinarian will most likely start the examination with observing the horse trotting. After that he (or she) will usually start at the foot of the lame leg and work his way up the leg to pinpoint the location of the pain.

When looking at the feet, they look for many possible causes of lameness. It could be as simple as an incorrect shoe, or more complicated such as navicular syndrome or laminitis.

They will feel the hoof for any signs of heat, pain or swelling. Also, uneven wear on the hoof is another sign that there is a problem.

As they work their way up the leg, they feel for any areas of heat or swelling. They also palpate the tendon and joint areas for any signs of pain.

The two most common sources of lameness originate in the foot. Laminitis is an inflammation of the hoof wall, usually caused by an improper diet or an infection. A diet too high in grain can cause laminitis as can a diet of grass under stress (grass becomes stressed when it is over gazed or when it has insufficient moisture such as in times of drought). Also, an infection somewhere else on the horse's body could cause laminitis to develop in the foot.

Navicular syndrome, the other most common cause of lameness in horses, also affects the foot. The navicular bone is located at the back of the foot and is an area of tendon and ligament attachment. Being an area where a lot of motion happens, even the slightest inflammation can cause the horse to be lame.

By knowing what signs to look for in your horse you'll be able to detect lameness early. The best treatment is always prevention. By feeding your horse a nutritious diet and seeing a farrier and vet on a regular basis you can prevent most forms of horse lameness.

Until next time,

Teia

Sunday, May 3, 2009

First Aid Kits for Horses


A first aid kit for your horse is essential to have if you go for a lot of rides in the woods or on trails. By keeping some basic supplies on hand and having some basic knowledge, you can give your horse the care it needs when it needs it. But remember, your veterinarian should always be consulted if your horse needs medical care.

There are many types of first aid kits on the market, but it is unlikely you'll find one specifically for horses, so you will likely have to modify one that you buy, or build your own from scratch. Either way, make sure it contains the basics and put it in a place that is easily seen.

First of all, it is important to have some antibiotic cream. Usually any triple antibiotic cream will work. Some horses tend to get scratched, especially on trail rides or walking next to fences. Obviously this antibiotic cream should only be applied to small scratches. Make sure you keep it away from your horse’s eyes. For larger scratches, a veterinarian will likely need to suture them closed and put the horse on injectable antibiotics.

You will also need bandaging equipment. Vetwrap, tefla pads and medical porous tape are a good start. Make sure you buy the largest tefla pads you can find. These might be hard to find, but an army supply store usually has large field bandages that are a good size for a horse. Also, you'll need scissors to cut these bandages.

Antiseptic ointments or creams are also another must for a basic kit. It is always best to clean and apply antiseptic to wounds prior to applying antibiotic cream and bandaging them. Your veterinarian can advise you about the best ones to buy.

For long trail rides, it is usually good to prepare for occasional bee stings. Usually your veterinarian will provide you with some antihistamine if your horse is allergic to bee stings.

To round out your emergency kit, it is also a good idea to have towels, hoof trimmers, a hoof pick and a knife. A wire cutter is also a must in case your horse gets tangled in a fence.

By keeping some basic emergency supplies in a first aid kit, you can rapidly attend to your horse’s needs. Contact your veterinarian and he or she might be able to give you specific medication for your horse. For example if your horse is prone to allergies he can give you the medication to keep with you on trail rides.

Put all of your supplies in a plastic box or rucksack and remember to keep it in a highly visible place. Before starting out on your trail ride, transfer your supplies to your saddle bags so that you can take them with you. You don't want to be in an emergency and not know where your emergency kit is, the one you put all your hard work into creating.

Until next time,

Teia

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Colic in Horses


Colic is one of the most common horse conditions for which you will need to call your Veterinarian. Colic is not a disease. It is a clinical sign of many possible diseases. Increasing your knowledge of this common condition of horses could save your horse’s life.

Colic means literally a pain in the abdomen. When a horse "colics," this means that the horse is acting painful and it appears that the pain is coming from the abdomen.

Horse colic can vary greatly in severity. Some colics will go away with just taking your horse for a walk, but other forms of colic will require surgery and can be life threatening. So if you think your horse has colic you should contact your Veterinarian immediately.

There are many possible causes of colic. One possible cause of colic could be from changing its diet. The diet could be too high in grain or maybe there is moldy hay in the feed. Another possible cause is when a segment of the horse's intestine twists in the abdomen. This happens quite frequently in horses. Generally your Veterinarian can diagnose this by ultrasound, palpation, or by use of a stethoscope. To cure this type of colic, surgery is often required. This means you have to take your horse to the Veterinary hospital. Colic surgery in horses is very expensive costing $2,000 at a minimum. In addition the hospitalization is rather extensive and expensive too.

Some common treatments for mild colics could include products that relieve the pain like analgesics such as Banamine or Aspirin. Also, mineral oil is used sometimes if it is thought that extra lubrication in the intestines would help the pain pass. Sometimes in severe cases, intestines can rupture which usually leads to death. But, with proper feeding and care you can prevent most cases of colic.

Usually when calling your Veterinarian about your horse having colic, they will advise you NOT to let your horse try to lie down and roll over. If they are in pain, many horses will try and lay down and roll around on the ground trying to relieve the pain. It is important to prevent this, as a horse can do even more damage to themselves rolling around while in this condition.

A secondary problem often overlooked when a horse has colic is that lameness could develop. This is a disease of the feet which is also a very common problem of horses.

If you think your horse has colic you should contact your Veterinarian immediately, even if it's late at night. When your horse has colic, minutes and hours count toward finding a resolution to the problem.

Another important thing to be aware of, is that some horses are more prone to colic than others. This is a question you should ask a horse owner if you are thinking about buying their horse.

By becoming aware of the common disease conditions in horses you can catch them earlier and provide relief earlier. If you have more questions on colic, contact your Veterinarian.

Until next time,

Teia