Sunday, December 20, 2009

The Story of Reggie


I do not know who the author of this story is, or how long it has been around. It was sent to my dad as an email. He read it to me and I knew I just had to include it as a post on my blog. It is a great story…and according to all the research I have done…it is just that, a story. Snopes claims that it is 97% certain that there is no truth to the story, but that it does show the sacrifices that members of the military have to make when they are sent off to war. So, as a tribute to their sacrifices so that all of us can live in freedom and “do our own thing,” here is the “Story of Reggie.”

"They told me the big black Lab's name was Reggie as I looked at him lying in his pen. The shelter was clean, no-kill and the people really friendly. I'd only been in the area for six months, but everywhere I went in the small college town, people were welcoming and open. Everyone waves when you pass them on the street.

But something was still missing as I attempted to settle in to my new life here and I thought a dog couldn't hurt. Give me someone to talk to. And I had just seen Reggie's advertisement on the local news. The shelter said they had received numerous calls right after, but they said the people who had come down to see him just didn't look like "Lab people," whatever that meant. They must've thought I did.

But at first, I thought the shelter had misjudged me in giving me Reggie and his things, which consisted of a dog pad, bag of toys almost all of which were brand new tennis balls, his dishes and a sealed letter from his previous owner. See, Reggie and I didn't really hit it off when we got home. We struggled for two weeks (which is how long the shelter told me to give him to adjust to his new home). Maybe it was the fact that I was trying to adjust, too. Maybe we were too much alike.

For some reason, his stuff (except for the tennis balls - he wouldn't go anywhere without two stuffed in his mouth) got tossed in with all of my other unpacked boxes. I guess I didn't really think he'd need all his old stuff, that I'd get him new things once he settled in, but it became pretty clear pretty soon that he wasn't going to.

I tried the normal commands the shelter told me he knew, ones like "sit" and "stay" and "come" and "heel" and he'd follow them - when he felt like it.

He never really seemed to listen when I called his name - sure, he'd look in my direction after the fourth of fifth time I said it, but then he'd just go back to doing whatever. When I'd ask again, you could almost see him sigh and then grudgingly obey.

This just wasn't going to work. He chewed a couple shoes and some unpacked boxes. I was a little too stern with him and he resented it, I could tell. The friction got so bad that I couldn't wait for the two weeks to be up and when it was, I was in full-on search mode for my cell phone amid all of my unpacked stuff. I remembered leaving it on the stack of boxes for the guest room, but I also mumbled, rather cynically, that the "damn dog probably hid it on me."

Finally I found it, but before I could punch up the shelter's number, I also found his pad and other toys from the shelter.. I tossed the pad in Reggie's direction and he snuffed it and wagged, some of the most enthusiasm I'd seen since bringing him home. But then I called, "Hey, Reggie, you like that? Come here and I'll give you a treat." Instead, he sort of glanced in my direction - maybe "glared" is more accurate - and then gave a discontented sigh and flopped down. With his back to me.

Well, that's not going to do it either, I thought. And I punched the shelter phone number.

But I hung up when I saw the sealed envelope. I had completely forgotten about that, too. "Okay, Reggie," I said out loud, "let's see if your previous owner has any advice."....


To Whoever Gets My Dog:

Well, I can't say that I'm happy you're reading this, a letter I told the shelter could only be opened by Reggie's new owner. I'm not even happy writing it. If you're reading this, it means I just got back from my last car ride with my Lab after dropping him off at the shelter. He knew something was different. I have packed up his pad and toys before and set them by the back door before a trip, but this time...it's like he knew something was wrong. And something is wrong... which is why I have to go to try to make it right.

So let me tell you about my Lab in the hopes that it will help you bond with him and he with you.

First, he loves tennis balls. The more the merrier. Sometimes I think he's part squirrel, the way he hordes them. He usually always has two in his mouth, and he tries to get a third in there. Hasn't done it yet. Doesn't matter where you throw it, he'll bound after it, so be careful - really - don't do it by any roads. I made that mistake once and it almost cost him dearly.

Next, commands. Maybe the shelter staff already told you, but I'll go over them again: Reggie knows the obvious ones - "sit," "stay," "come," "heel." He knows hand signals: "back" to turn around and go back when you put your hand straight up; and "over" if you put your hand out right or left. "Shake" for shaking water off, and "paw" for a high-five. He does "down" when he feels like lying down - I bet you could work on that with him some more. He knows "ball" and "food" and "bone" and "treat" like nobody's business.

I trained Reggie with small food treats. Nothing opens his ears like little pieces of hot dog.

Feeding schedule: twice a day, once about seven in the morning and again at six in the evening. Regular store-bought stuff; the shelter has the brand.

He's up on his shots. Call the clinic on 9th Street and update his info with yours; they'll make sure to send you reminders for when he's due. Be forewarned: Reggie hates the vet. Good luck getting him in the car - I don't know how he knows when it's time to go to the vet, but he knows.

Finally, give him some time. I've never been married, so it's only been Reggie and me for his whole life. He's gone everywhere with me, so please include him on your daily car rides if you can. He sits well in the backseat and he doesn't bark or complain. He just loves to be around people and me most especially.

Which means that this transition is going to be hard, with him going to live with someone new.

And that's why I need to share one more bit of info with you....

His name's not Reggie.

I don't know what made me do it, but when I dropped him off at the shelter, I told them his name was Reggie. He's a smart dog, he'll get used to it and will respond to it, of that I have no doubt. But I just couldn't bear to give them his real name. For me to do that, it seemed so final, that handing him over to the shelter was as good as me admitting that I'd never see him again. And if I end up coming back, getting him and tearing up this letter, it means everything's fine. But if someone else is reading it, well...well it means that his new owner should know his real name. It'll help you bond with him. Who knows, maybe you'll even notice a change in his demeanour if he's been giving you problems. His real name is Tank.

Because that is what I drive.

Again, if you're reading this and you're from the area, maybe my name has been on the news. I told the shelter that they couldn't make "Reggie" available for adoption until they received word from my company commander. See, my parents are gone, I have no siblings, no one I could've left Tank with...and it was my only real request of the Army upon my deployment to Iraq , that they make one phone call to the shelter...in the "event"... to tell them that Tank could be put up for adoption. Luckily, my colonel is a dog guy, too and he knew where my platoon was headed. He said he'd do it personally. And if you're reading this, then he made good on his word.

Well, this letter is getting too downright depressing, even though, frankly, I'm just writing it for my dog. I couldn't imagine if I was writing it for a wife and kids and family. But still, Tank has been my family for the last six years, almost as long as the Army has been my family.

And now I hope and pray that you make him part of your family and that he will adjust and come to love you the same way he loved me.

That unconditional love from a dog is what I took with me to Iraq as an inspiration to do something selfless, to protect innocent people from those who would do terrible things... and to keep those terrible people from coming over here. If I had to give up Tank in order to do it, I am glad to have done so. He was my example of service and of love. I hope I honoured him by my service to my country and comrades.

All right, that's enough. I deploy this evening and have to drop this letter off at the shelter. I don't think I'll say another good-bye to Tank, though. I cried too much the first time. Maybe I'll peek in on him and see if he finally got that third tennis ball in his mouth.

Good luck with Tank. Give him a good home and give him an extra kiss goodnight - every night - from me.

Thank you,
Paul Mallory


I folded the letter and slipped it back into the envelope. Sure I had heard of Paul Mallory, everyone in town knew him, even new people like me. Local kid, killed in Iraq a few months ago and posthumously earning the Silver Star when he gave his life to save three buddies.. Flags had been at half-mast all summer.

I leaned forward in my chair and rested my elbows on my knees, staring at the dog.

"Hey, Tank," I said quietly.

The dog's head whipped up, his ears cocked and his eyes bright..

"C'mere boy."

He was instantly on his feet, his nails clicking on the hardwood floor. He sat in front of me, his head tilted, searching for the name he hadn't heard in months.

"Tank," I whispered.

His tail swished. I kept whispering his name, over and over and each time, his ears lowered, his eyes softened and his posture relaxed as a wave of contentment just seemed to flood him. I stroked his ears, rubbed his shoulders, buried my face into his scruff and hugged him.

"It's me now, Tank, just you and me. Your old pal gave you to me." Tank reached up and licked my cheek. "So whatdaya say we play some ball? His ears perked again. "Yeah? Ball? You like that? Ball?" Tank tore from my hands and disappeared into the next room. And when he came back, he had three tennis balls in his mouth."

I hope you enjoyed the story and that it brought a lump to your throat and a tear to your eye. It did for me!

Thank you to all the men and women of the Military who keep us safe and free.

Until next time,

Teia


PS. Today’s Grandma’s 89th Birthday…Happy Birthday Grandma!

Friday, December 18, 2009

How to Prepare a Raw Diet for Your Pet(s)



In spite of mom and dad’s concerns about raw food diets, these diets seem to be more popular than ever. With that in mind, I chose this article for today’s post.

Before there was such a thing as commercial pet foods, dogs ate table scraps and the leftovers, including bones from on the farm butchering; cats usually lived on the rodents they caught around the house or outbuildings, occasionally supplemented by a bowl of milk or a squirt of milk from a cow’s teat during milking in the barn.

The acquisition of pets by city dwellers and their need for a more convenient means of feeding their pets gave rise to the pet food industry we have today. However, after the pet food disaster of a couple of years ago, more and more people have come to realize the dangers and inadequacies of commercial pet foods.

The Most Highly Touted Benefits of a Raw Diet.

Numerous articles and books have been written about raw pet food diets. In fact, they have become so popular that now commercially prepared raw diets can be obtained in fresh, frozen or dehydrated condition. The most commonly mentioned benefits of raw food diets include increased health and vigour, a much more glossy coat, cleaner teeth and longer, healthier lives.

Cautions that Should be Followed.

Discuss any change in diet with your veterinarian. Ill or aging animals may need to be eased into a raw food diet. You may want to start with lightly cooked food, particularly if their digestion or immune system is compromised in any way. For the safety of your dog, bones should initially be ground or be large enough so the dog will chew off any meat and cartilage but not be able to break and ingest bone fragments.

The "One Hundred Percent Complete" Myth.

Most commercial diets on the market are usually advertised as "100% complete and balanced." This was the case back in the 1970’s when pet food diets did not contain taurine and pets were dying from heart problems because no one realized taurine was an essential nutrient. Now, quietly, taurine is also being added to previously "complete" pet foods. What nutrients will be “discovered” as being essential in the next few years?

As an example in human terms, the cereal Total (R) is advertised as 100% complete -- would you feed your child nothing else for her entire life? I don’t think so! It is nearly impossible for a manufactured food to be 100% complete because we simply don't know everything there is to know about nutrition, either human nutrition or pet nutrition. And, since we do not know enough, how can we manufacture 100 % complete food products?

Diets for Dogs.

Dogs, while technically carnivores, are opportunistic scavengers. They will grab anything that smells good to them and run away to gorge themselves on it. No matter how well trained, most dogs will grab any food item that they can reach on a counter, table or window ledge and some have been known to grab meat off a BBQ. If allowed to run free, they also spend time searching through human garbage for tasty tidbits. A dog's diet can consist of a wide variety of foods; however, meat and bones should still be the primary ingredients. If vegetables are included in your dog’s diet, they should first be blanched and frozen to break down cell walls and release nutrients for the dog to absorb. Carrots are very hard for dogs to digest, so they should be pureed. Since some dogs like fruit, this can be provided to them, but avoid grapes, raisins, nuts and onions, which can be toxic, especially to small dogs. Feed garlic only in moderation. Grains are not required and in fact can be harmful to some dogs. However, if your dog needs to gain some weight, then rolled oats, brown rice, or barley will help. Dogs will also like an OCCASIONAL piece of whole grain bread as a treat, but be warned that this will quickly cause your dog to gain weight and overweight dogs tend to develop diabetes or heart problems more easily.

Diets for Cats.

Cats are completely carnivorous animals, which means that they MUST eat a meat-based diet. Almost all commercial cat diets are completely inappropriate with their grain and vegetable fillers. Obesity, diabetes and irritable bowel disease are some of the most common problems in cats that are continuously fed a dry food diet. You should choose a variety of raw meats and organs to provide a good diet. Most cats like their food ground, however some enjoy gnawing on raw chicken wings and necks.

Keeping the Balance in Your Pet’s Diet.

You do not eat the same thing every day and the same should be true for your pet. They need variety in their diet to obtain the best health benefits. When you first start feeding a raw diet, most likely you will start off with one meat source (most people use chicken because it is readily available and inexpensive). If you can get a frozen mix, like Oma's Pride, your job will be much easier, as it is made up of ground meat, bones, vegetables and organs (for dogs), or a variety of ground meats (with or without bones) and organs for cats. When planning meals for your pet(s), you must remember to balance the ingredients over time so the pet(s) get the full benefits of a raw diet. Meats from different animals, even different cuts of meat from the same animal, will have different nutrient content. By choosing a wide variety of meats and including organs as well, you can achieve balance over time. Add yogurt or cottage cheese (if your pet does not have an allergy to dairy products) and raw or cooked eggs at least once a week.

When feeding raw diets, puppies don't need special diets, however, they will require as much as 10% of their weight in food to start off with, gradually decreasing to the adult maintenance level of 3% by 1-2 years of age.

Working dogs and dogs involved in sporting activities should get 3-5% of their body weight in daily food. Judge the success of your feeding program by body condition which should show a definite indentation in the stomach area. The dog should be active, alert and have a good coat if the diet is balanced and adequate. Good meats for dogs include chicken, turkey, lamb, beef (for most dogs, although some dogs have shown allergic reactions to beef), also duck (for weight gain) and rabbit. Most of these are available from larger grocery stores, butcher shops or raw pet food distributors.

For cats, rabbit, chicken, and small amounts of fish make great choices that are "close" to their natural diet. Do not overdo the supply of salmon or herring as they contain quite a lot of oil and will tend to add weight to your cat if given too frequently. Try to pick less oily fish and keep the salmon and herring for special treats.

Feeding a raw diet to pets is not complicated although it is more time consuming than opening a can or dumping dry food into a bowl. Just follow these general guidelines, check with your veterinarian regularly and read as much about it as you can, and you'll be a pro in no time.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. I like my meat cooked. To me, raw meat tastes awful, so I won’t eat it unless I am VERY hungry. I LOVE table scraps though and I like raw fruit, particularly pieces of apple that have had the skin removed and pieces of cantaloupe and watermelon.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009


CATS ARE SMART!

If the right definition for the term “Intelligence” is “the ability to acquire and remember information and the capability to use that information while solving different problems”, then the cat is definitely one of the most intelligent animals there is.

Put an adult cat in a room in which she has never been before and watch how she inspects every corner of that room. This detailed search gives her valuable information about the environment, information that can save her life, in some cases. Actually, the curiosity specific to cats never harmed them; on the contrary, it gave them the reputation of having nine lives!

We all know that the ability cats have to inspect surroundings is legendary, but at the same time, it has been proven that this ability is superior to that of any other domestic animal.

The intellectual capacity of the cat is demonstrated by her ability to use information she already has to pass safely through certain situations. Cats are capable of forming “learning methods,” a characteristic that was supposed to belong only to primates.

Cats learn through observation, imitation, trying things to find a solution and of course, mistakes, just like people. The stories about cats being able to open draws or cupboards are many, but there are also cats that can turn on the lights or use the toilet and this is possible only by carefully observing the ones that know how to do these things, their owners. On the other hand, it can be taught by loving reinforced training too.

Considering the fact that the cat is the most intelligent domestic animal, it is very important that the owner knows very clearly the limits of her cognitive processes, because conferring the pet with human motives can cause damage and behavioural problems.

According to animal behavioural experts, a cat cannot reflect upon the past or think in perspective, so punishing her for something she has done only minutes earlier is useless, because the cat is not capable of connecting the punishment with her past actions. In the same way, cats can’t claim revenge for a past punishment. However, they do have memories and they will remember those who were mean to them and avoid them and those who were good to them and respond positively to these people. If they find a way to open a window in the house in which they live, when they want to go out, they will go to that window and open it again. Similarly, if they spend time in a cage or carrier and they learn how to open it, they will do so again shortly after they are placed in this restrictive place.

In conclusion, don’t underestimate the intelligence of your cat! Try to know your pet better and act in such a way that living together can be a beneficial experience for both of you.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. Grandma came home from the hospital yesterday, so dad was tied up getting her settled back in her apartment.

Monday, December 14, 2009

Training Your Pet Parrot


Parrots are wonderful pets. You will quickly find that these birds are extremely smart and their ability to learn makes them fun to train. Keep in mind that any animal that shows signs of high intelligence can easily get bored, so your job is to train your pet parrot and spend the time it takes to make your bird into a wonderful pet. It takes time and patience to train a parrot, but with the proper training, your parrot will provide you with many years of friendship and entertainment. African Grey Parrots are the easiest parrots to teach to speak, although mom and dad have a grey cockatiel that is over 28 years old that has a vocabulary of more than a hundred words. He learned to talk from sitting on dad’s shoulder as he read the newspaper and talked to the bird. No formal training was ever undertaken with him.

Here are some tips to help you train your parrot. Whenever “school is in” for your parrot, it is always best to remove your parrot from his or her cage and train it in a small quiet space. Your parrot is more likely to remain attentive and retain information when it is in a new environment. The next thing you have to do is eliminate all distractions in your home. If your parrot becomes distracted during training, it will not learn what you are trying to teach. That means that you need to turn off the radio, television and perhaps even the telephone. Also, remember that parrots are a lot like children. They have short attention spans, so short training sessions are recommended.

In addition, try to plan your parrot’s training time around their schedule, not yours. After mealtime is always a good time for training, because your parrot will be content and will pay attention. Your parrot will also appreciate plenty of praise. Even if you find that you are not very successful, do not let your parrot see your stress levels rise. This makes it an unpleasant experience for your bird and you will have a harder time getting your parrot interested in learning in the future. Try to make learning fun for your bird.

When you are ready to teach your parrot a new trick, your pet parrot will respond well to treats and praise. Remember that all animals respond better to praise than punishment. Try to avoid punishing your parrot, even if he or she is acting naughty. Ignoring this behaviour is your best bet when training your pet parrot. Parrots do not understand punishment or negative reinforcement. In fact, if you respond to your parrot’s bad behaviour, your pet may actually see this as positive attention. Keep in mind that while your parrot will love food treats as rewards, try to accentuate the positive and encourage good behaviour with lots of praise and play time. Otherwise, your parrot may only perform the tricks you want him to when some kind of food reward is available.

Repetition is the key to successfully training your pet parrot. Repeating these basic steps until your pet “gets” the trick is the best way to train your parrot to perform. This works well for basic commands and advanced tricks. If you have just gotten your pet parrot, start out with very simple tricks, such as teaching your parrot to sit on your finger on command. Find a word for each trick and use it every time you train. Most of all, never force your parrot to train. If you find your parrot is tired or uninterested, then stop and try again another time.

As your parrot learns more commands and tricks, you can begin moving your training session closer and closer to the bird’s cage. As he gets better at his new skill, he will feel comfortable performing in his cage and in the hustle and bustle of your household. Some birds can learn quickly and sometimes just by listening, which may cause embarrassment to you if they learn something inappropriate. One parrot mom and dad had learned things from watching television. Cisco, mom and dad’s cockatiel, learned from dad talking to him. Every night when they were ready for bed, they would say, “nighty night” to him, turn out the lights and go off to bed. After a couple of weeks of this, he would respond, “nighty night.” Now when mom can’t sleep and sits at the table reading, Cisco will put up with it for a little while and then he loudly pipes, “nighty night” until she goes to bed.

Training a parrot can take a lot of time and patience, and sometimes, like mom and dad’s parrot “Bertsie,” an Orange-winged Amazon parrot, they never learn to talk. Mom and dad no longer have any parrots of their own, but they do baby sit a friend’s African Grey parrot several times a year. “Paco” has a large vocabulary of words and sounds that he says. The interesting thing about him is that when he says something, he uses the voice of the person he learned the word or phrase from. If he learned from his “mother,” he mimics her voice and if he learned what he is repeating from this “father,” he mimics his voice. The funniest thing he does is go through the sound of a ringing cell phone, the sound of the phone being clicked open and then he says “Hello” and carries on a conversation…then he says “Well I have to go now, Goodbye”…then you hear the sounds of the cell phone being closed. He’s really funny, but when he makes some of his really loud noises he scares me, so I’m nervous when he is here. You must love your bird and have a lot of time and dedication to make this partnership worthwhile. With patient training and love, you will end up with a fantastic and well-behaved pet that will be with you for a very long time as the average lifespan of parrots is from 50 to 80 years, with some living over 100 years. They are truly unique pets. Whether they learn to talk or not, they are great to have around, as they will give you hours of pleasure watching their natural antics.

Until next time,

Teia

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Using Positive Reinforcement to Train Your Cat or Kitten


I’m sorry for the delay in posting this entry, but this month has been very trying. On December 2, my soon to be 89 year old grandmother (dad’s mom) fell in her seniors apartment and broke her left arm at the elbow. She couldn’t get up on her own, but she had a “Lifeline” button on her necklace and she pressed it. This caused her phone to contact an emergency operator who phoned dad. He rushed over to grandma’s and called an ambulance. The ambulance took grandma to the hospital, but they did not have an orthopedic surgeon available, so grandma spent the night at the local hospital and then was sent out via air ambulance to the Royal University Hospital in Saskatoon. She had her operation to pin the broken bones back together on Saturday, December 5, then flown back to the local hospital on Monday December 7. She is recovering nicely. On Thursday December 10, dad got his Windows 7 upgrade and he spent over 8 hours trying to get it properly loaded onto his computer so that the numerous crashes of Windows Vista would be a nightmare of the past. It was not an easy upgrade, as Windows 7 doesn’t use the mail system that Windows Vista used, so dad had to export all his mail contacts to another file and then import them into Windows hotmail. Quite a lot of dad’s software was not compatible with Windows 7, so it had to either be updated or removed before Windows 7 could be loaded. It was not a fun time, but hopefully everything is going to be OK….at least there have been no crashes so far today…unlike Vista which crashed multiple times a day…particularly when dad was trying to add a picture to these posts, or review his “my pictures file”. Finally he can post this entry for me. Enjoy!

Pets make your home more complete by being there to greet you after a hard day at work or snuggling up to you while you sleep. Cats have been termed the most fickle of creatures; however, they are sweet lovable animals if you raise them from infancy. Most cats will recognize you by the sound of your voice and the car you drive. They will particularly know you if you are the one who spoils them the most. Like dogs, cats can be trained. A cat can be trained to come to your call, to bring their toys when they want to play, as well as more domestic issues such as using a litter box. The key to training a cat or kitten is reinforcement.

Reinforcement starts at any age, but it is wise to start when they are still a kitten. Cats cannot distinguish words, but they are very astute at distinguishing the tones of your voice. They will know they have done something wrong just by the tone of voice you use. This is why it is important to use your upset voice when they have done something wrong, otherwise they will become confused. Let’s go back to reinforcement. Reinforcement is either positive or negative. Stern words are a negative reinforcement for a cat or kitten because they typically do not care for harsh tones. Positive reinforcement can be gentle hugs, full body petting, treats, or play time. (If you wonder why I said gentle hugs, it is because many cats become panicky if they are held tightly.)

To train your kitty to come to your call you must repeat her name while she is looking at you. Look right at your cat while you are using a nice tone of voice. Another way to call your cat is to have another sound, like snapping fingers, or clicking noises with your tongue. These typically gain the attention of your cat or kitten so they learn to come when you call.

Litter box training is perhaps the easiest part of having a kitty in your life. It is best to keep them confined to one room, the room you will have the litter box in, to train them. They will learn by you putting them in the box and allowing them to familiarize themselves with the smell. Mom and dad found that during the training period if you leave a small bit of damp litter in the litter box when you change the litter, the kitten will smell this and return to the litter box more easily. Cats by nature understand the feel of litter associating it with dirt. You may have to pick them up when they first begin to go, if they do not understand the litter box, and place them inside. Occasionally a cat does not like the litter you have purchased. They usually show their displeasure by using the floor. If this happens, try a different brand. Another thing that you must ensure is that the litter box is cleaned frequently. Many cats will not use a box that is full of stool and damp clumps of urine soaked litter. Cats are naturally clean animals and they do not like to be dirty. That is why they are easy to litter train and why they spend so much time grooming themselves. Most female adult cats will train their kittens to use the litter box, so it is important they do not leave their mother’s care too quickly.

Food works in much the same way. Once you show them where their food bowls are they will continue to go there. Cats are creatures of habit. Make sure that their food and water bowls are not located near their litter box. You do not like to eat your meals in your bathroom and neither does your cat.


Habits are how you will train your kitty to bring you toys. Some cats will simply meow when they want to play and casually bat their toy. However, if you respond positively by playing with them every time they carry a toy mouse or stuffed toy to you, they will continue to bring the toy without the reinforcement of a treat. For example, a family friend’s kitty, Spooky, brings a stuffed animal to the family friend every time she wants to play. She lays it down near the end of our friend’s couch and meows until our friend recognizes the good deed and begins to play with her.

Cats are trainable, perhaps not to the degree that a dog is trainable, but they can be trained to respond to your voice commands if you are consistent with both the tones and the words you use. Cats will enliven any home and, given a lot of positive reinforcement, they can be just as much fun, if not more fun, than other pets. This is especially true when they give you comfort by stepping onto your lap and begin kneading and purring. These moments can take away a bad day at work within a few seconds.

Cats, by nature, are very independent animals. However, if you make a fuss of them and treat them well, while allowing them to have their own “private time,” they will give you countless hours of love and affection. What more could you want from a pet?

Until next time,

Teia

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Tips for Bathing Your Cat


Cats normally do not need help getting and staying clean. They are fastidious about their cleanliness and spend much of their day primping and preening. Cats learn from a very young age to stay clean, as the mother always teaches her young the art of bathing. Cat owners rarely need to give their cats a bath, however, there are some situations where you may find it necessary to bathe kitty. You never know when your cat will get so dirty that she needs a little extra help. If your cat is afflicted with skin allergies or has a flea infestation, you might need to bathe your cat. Sick and older cats may have a difficult time keeping clean, too. You will find that your cat probably resists getting a bath, but you can do it if you are prepared.

Where to bathe your cat.

The best place to bathe your cat is in a small, enclosed room. If you have a sink in your laundry room, that would work perfectly. A deep bathroom sink would also do the trick. The idea is to get your cat in a small area to help him or her feel safer during the process. Another idea is to use a baby tub and place it inside your own bathtub. This might cause an aching back on your part, but may be just the thing for your cat.

Get Your Supplies

You want to make sure that you have everything you need on hand before you begin. It will be almost impossible to stop what you are doing with a struggling cat to run and get a towel or shampoo. You will need several old towels and cat shampoo and possibly cat hair conditioner. Human shampoo, even baby shampoo does not have the right ph value for your cat, so if you think there may be a chance that you could have to bathe your cat, buy cat shampoo and conditioner ahead of time. If you get caught unprepared and you do not have cat shampoo, baby shampoo can be used, but do NOT use it on a regular basis as you could cause your cat to develop skin problems. If you do not have a hand wand attached to your shower, or a removable one you can attach to the tap you are using to bathe your cat, you will need a cup to wet your cat’s hair before applying the shampoo and to rinse off the shampoo. As an alternative, you might even consider using a turkey-basting tool to rinse under the chin, around the neck and between the legs. In addition, if your cat’s fur is matted, you should consider removing these mats before beginning the bath. Trying to brush or comb mats out of a wet cat is very difficult to achieve.

Get the Bath Ready

When you have gotten all of your supplies where you need them and removed any mats from your cat’s fur, you will want to prepare the bath. Lukewarm water works best. Think of the temperature you would use to bathe an infant. That is what you need when you wash your cat. Put about four or five inches of water in the tub or sink. You do not need a lot of water when you bathe your cat--just enough to get the cat wet and do the first rinse. It is also a good idea to place a non-skid mat or folded bath towel in the bottom of the sink or tub before you begin filling it with water. This prevents the cat from slipping on the bottom of the sink or tub.

Ease your Cat into the Water

It is now time for the hard part. You have to get your cat and ease him or her into the water. This may sound easier than it is. Some cats may struggle with you more than others may. Only you know your cat’s personality. The best way to go about doing this is to lower your cat into the water by placing one hand under the cat’s belly and one hand firmly, but gently on the cat’s back. If your cat is still struggling, you might want to wrap a towel around it to prevent scratches. You may be surprised by your cat’s reaction. Some cats will sit there quietly and let you work. Others will be scared and will try to run from you. You will get wet, but you may try holding the cat’s body close to your own while bathing so he or she feels more secure. Never raise your voice or move too fast, as this can send your cat into a frenzy.

Begin the Bath

You can use vegetable oil if you need to remove sticky substances from your cat’s fur, but use it before giving the cat a bath, as the oil will leave a harmless residue on the cat’s fur. After your cat is situated in the water, you can begin to bathe. Work quickly, but gently. The best method for bathing your cat is to start with the head and work your way to its tail. Be careful not to get water or shampoo in your cat’s ears or eyes. If you are treating for fleas, then you will want to follow the directions on the flea shampoo at this point. Wet your cat’s fur before applying the shampoo. You will only need a very small amount of shampoo. If you get too much, you will have to rinse longer. Once your cat has been bathed and all of the shampoo has been rinsed off, check the skin to see if it shows any signs of flaking or dry skin. If dry skin is present, you should use a cat hair conditioner to alleviate this dry skin condition. If you use a conditioner, make sure that it is thoroughly rinsed off to prevent a rash or allergic reaction. The first step in drying your cat is to use a towel to get the majority of the water off. Then, if your cat is not scared of blow driers, you can use this to finish the drying process, after the excess water has been towelled off. Be careful not to set the blow drier too hot. If you do not use a blow drier, then use another dry towel to finish the drying process. When the cat feels dry to the touch, take a comb and carefully comb its hair to ensure all tangles are removed.

If you cannot give your cat a bath, check to see if any of your local groomers or veterinarians provide this service. Depending on where you live, this service could be quite expensive, so you should consider checking around before you need this service to see who provides the best deal. Ask the service provider to give you several references you can check to ascertain the quality of the service and the reaction of the reference’s cat to that service.

Until next time,

Teia

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Toys Your Cat(s) Will Love


Do you walk through the pet store, see the many toys available for your cat, and wonder if the expense will be worth it? Cats can be fickle creatures, but they can have a good time with almost any toy. Cats are like children. They go through stages and sometimes need age appropriate toys. They can also get bored very easily. Some suggestions for toys include cat towers, stuffed toy mice, small amounts of catnip, stuffed toy animals, ribbons, plastic balls and paper bags. When mom and dad had cats, they spent as much time darting in and out of an open paper bag or a small cardboard box as they did with any purchased toy. They also enjoyed playing with empty toilet paper and paper towel rolls. A wadded up piece of newspaper tied to a string hung from a doorknob was also a great favourite of their cats.

From an early age, kittens learn to pick up things with their mouth. It is an instinct, just like using their claws. When a cat plays, they like to grab and bite their toys.

Let’s look at the toys listed above. A cat tower is a great way to teach your cat where it is appropriate to climb. It will keep them off the blinds or curtains while giving them hours of fun. There are many styles of cat towers from the two story towers to the ones rising to the ceiling. The answer to your question is, the more levels they have, the more fun and enjoyment they will receive out of a cat tower. A cat will use the tower for play as well as sleep. They like to bat at ropes and other items dangling off the tower as well as going through little tunnels up to the next level. If you have two cats, you will have fun watching them give chase to the top often trying to knock the other off. A cat tower can be practical because they will scratch at it, rather than your furniture.

Stuffed toy mice are also important to any kitty’s playtime. Not all mice are the same; most cats prefer the small leather mice with the multi-coloured fur and long tails. Cloth mice are typically second during playtime. If you find your kitty to be uninterested in toy mice you might want to check the type of mouse you bought her and consider switching to another style of mouse.

Catnip toys are very popular. Catnip will cause your cat to be more rowdy, which can be a plus because they become tired more quickly. Catnip a while before bedtime is a great way to get your cat to sleep for quite a while and allow you to slumber too. Catnip should be given out sparingly. You do not want to give your cat catnip every day because it can adversely affect their behaviour. They can start to depend on it and have mood swings.

Cats like the feel of certain things in their mouth, that is why they chew on paper, plastic and even your blankets. The feel of the material in their mouth allows them to clean their teeth or when they are teething, it helps reduce the pain. A stuffed toy animal can work in much the same way and it will keep them away from other items which could be harmful.

You do not have to go to great expense to entertain your cat, however when you spend a little on toys, you may keep your kitty from getting bored. You can even hide some toys and reintroduce them after a few months to keep from purchasing new ones all the time. Just make sure it is not your pet’s favourite toy or she may find other ways to entertain herself that you do not find amusing.

Until next time,

Teia