Blog Entries

This year has not been kind to us, and as a result, entries have been very sporadic to say the least. Mom and dad went to Regina, Saskatchewan in early January. Shortly after returning home, dad came down with the worst cold he has ever had. No matter what he did, he just could not get rid of it. He felt absolutely terrible, and it lasted for over a month. He just got better as I got sick the first time. We aren't sure what my trouble was, but it seemed to be a doggy version of the flu.

I just got over that when it was time for my yearly check-up and my vaccinations. Fortunately that went well and things started returning to normal. Then about a month ago, I went to the groomer to get my hair cut. She found a big red area in my left groin and a bunch of infected hair follicles in my chin and on the right side of my nose. By the next morning the area in my groin had swollen to the size of half of a large egg. It was bright red with dark red stripe in the centre. Since this was a Sunday, the veterinarian was closed. Overnight, the swollen area ruptured and I had a hole about the size of a dime in my groin which oozed a mixture of blood, puss and plasma. Dad immediately contacted the veterinarian and made arrangements for me to be examined.

The veterinarian determined that I had an infection in my groin and also in the hair follicles on my chin. He prescribed a regimen of antibiotics. Dad took me home and started me on the antibiotics, but at the end of a week, nothing had improved. Back we went to the veterinarian. He checked me out and arranged for me to go to his hospital for a biopsy of the two areas. This was done the next morning. I came home with stitches in my chin and my groin and a head cone to prevent me from licking my groin or scrubbing my face on the carpet. When this was put on me, it made me feel so bad that I just laid like a blob on the floor. Dad felt sorry for me and took the cone off. I tried not to lick my groin, but at night when there was no one looking, I'd lick it. By the weekend, it looked quite good, but Saturday night it got itchy and I licked it a lot. Unfortunately, I licked a stitch out and opened up a big area again. In the morning dad saw the mess and phoned the veterinarian and asked if he could put a band-aid over the opening. The veterinarian advised that he could, but to bring me in to see him on Wednesday.

When I went to the veterinarian on Wednesday, the hole was nearly closed up, so the vet prescribed a more powerful antibiotic and told dad to bring me back in a week for a follow up. He also took a blood sample to see if there was an underlying problem that was preventing my immune system from responding to the antibiotics. The results of the biopsies showed no sign of malignancies, but also failed to determine what caused the infections.

That night my groin got itchy and sore, so I worked my tongue under the band-aid and licked the wound until it opened up again and drained more blood and plasma mixed with puss. In the morning, dad was not happy, so with help from his daughter, he removed the old band-aid and applied three new ones. Two across the incision and then one along the incision over top of the two that are across it. I don't think I'll be able to lick the incision any more. Hopefully, when we go to the vet on Wednesday, the incision will be healed enough that the remaining stitches can be removed. I hope so, as all the visits to the vet have cost dad over one thousand dollars.

I'm feeling a little better now and have started to eat again, which is good, because I have gone from 16 pounds 7 ounces to 14 pounds 9 ounces. The vet is still running more tests to try and determine what caused the infections and how best to treat them. I will try and keep you updated on how I'm doing and what sort of treatment is decided upon.

Until next time,

Teia


PS from Dad.

It is very distressing when your beloved pet is not well, and very hard to concentrate on daily activities when you cannot do something to ease their pain and discomfort. Hopefully, this episode will soon have a happy ending and Teia and I can get back to providing more regular postings on this blog.

Pedigree Cats

Most people buy pedigree kittens from cat breeders who usually breed a specific breed of cats. For example, if you wish to obtain a pedigree Siamese kitten, you should find a breeder who specializes in that breed. Usually these breeders are people who professionally breed cats to sell and/or show. They are very proud and knowledgeable about the breed they specialize in.

Once you have determined that you want a cat that has a pedigree, you need to find someone who breeds that type of cat. Ideally, you should get a breeder's name from someone who has already purchased a kitten from them. In this way, you can see the type of cat the breeder sells and determine if it meets your requirements. If you do not know anyone with the type of cat you wish to buy, then you can look in the pet section of your local newspaper to see if anyone local is selling this type of cat. You can also check with your local veterinarian as they usually have personal knowledge of all local cat and dog breeders.

Many cat magazines have listings of breeders near the back of the magazine. Or, you can call national organizations for listings of registered breeders. Another source is the Internet. For example a query of “siamese kittens for sale” performed on May 8, 2010, resulted in 163,000 responses from all over the world, so you should probably add some additional qualifications to your query to narrow down the number of responses, such as “toronto siamese kittens for sale” which resulted in 8010 responses which is still a large number, but a little more manageable.

Many professional breeders will usually have a range of ages of kittens for sale, from six weeks to six months old. Kittens under three months of age are the most popular, and you can expect to pay several hundred dollars for a quality pedigree kitten. Cat rescue groups and your local Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA) could also have kittens, but usually their pedigree is questionable, unless they were seized from a registered breeder.

You want to make sure that the breeder you choose is registered with a national cat registry and has been breeding cats for at least five years. (This ensures that their business and the lineage of their kittens is solid.) They should be able to give you a certificate of pedigree with the kitten to prove it's a purebred animal.

Find out if the breeder offers a written guarantee about the kitten's health. Also make sure they will give you a refund or exchange if the kitten develops a disease or genetic problem within the first six months to a year. Reputable breeders are more than happy to meet these conditions. If they are reluctant, or refuse, you do not want to do business with them - find another breeder.

Some pet stores sell pedigree kittens, although most are likely to only carry non-pedigree kittens. Most pet store kittens are young, usually under 12 weeks of age. They are often kept together in a pen or crate, which is great for display purposes, but not so great if one of the kittens becomes ill, because then all of the kittens would be exposed to that illness. Pet store kittens are often placed in the main area of the store. This is so people can get close to the kittens and even hold them if they want. Although this is a bit risky, it does socialize the kittens at an early age, which is a desirable thing.

If you are interested in a pet store kitten, try to find out how the store got the animals - from a breeder, pet wholesaler, or maybe just a neighbourhood family looking to place a litter from their cat. The source of the kittens matters, because it should be reflected in the price the store is charging for the kittens. Prices at pet stores can range from about fifty dollars to several hundred dollars for a pedigree kitten. (Again the actual pedigree of the animal is questionable because many pet stores do not provide a certificate of pedigree with the kitten.)

Whatever method you use to locate a pedigree kitten, if you do thorough research, you will find a great kitten which will give you many years of faithful companionship.

Until next time,

Teia

DOG COMMUNICATION

Dogs are one of the more intelligent animals kept as domestic pets. We have the ability to communicate with other dogs, other animals and even humans. We communicate using body language and vocal sounds. Our body language involves the use of our eyes, ears, mouth, posture, eyebrows, head position and tail. The vocals we use are yips, barks, howls, growls, whimpers, whines and “dog talk” which sounds like we are trying to imitate human speech. Some of our communications involve using the same gesture, but with a different meaning dictated by the circumstances in which it is used. For example, if we pant, it can mean that we are hot and we are trying to cool down, or it can mean that we are anxious or happy. If it is hot and we are panting heavily, it usually means that we are overheated and we are trying to cool down. If we are in the veterinarian's office and we are panting, it usually means we are anxious or scared. If we are playing with you and we pant and almost look like we are smiling, it means we are happy.

In the wild, dogs live in packs which have a certain hierarchy which is determined by personality, strength and personal confidence. Confident and higher ranked dogs hold their tail high. Lower ranked dogs, or submissive dogs, allow their tail to droop. If you notice that your pet dog carries his tail held high, it means that he is confident and proud. If he carries his tail low, it means that he is submissive and insecure. If you speak harshly to your dog when he has done something you don't like, you will notice that his tail will droop. If you have ever had occasion to observe a dog when it is about to become involved in a fight, you will notice that the fur on his tail is all fluffed out. As well all the hair on his body will also be standing out. This makes him appear larger to his opponent, which may cause the opponent to back down and submit to the larger appearing more dominant dog. (As an aside, if you are ever confronted by a black bear, stand on your tip toes, put your arms out and up as far as you can and yell as loud as you can...this makes you appear very large to the bear and most of the time he will run away. Growing up in the wilds of British Columbia, my dad had numerous confrontations with bears and by using this technique he was never attacked once...mind you he was very careful to never get between a female bear and her young either.)

When I am confused, I wag my tail slowly while I try to figure out what I should do. If I am excited about something, I wag my tail very quickly. If I am confronted by another dog and I recognize that he is higher ranked than I am, I will wag my tail and move my hips also. This means that I am ready to submit to the other dog.

When I become aggressive, I roll my lips back and show my fangs and growl. This indicates that I am ready to bite or attack. If I show my teeth in a smile, it means that I am showing that I am submissive. By observing the number of teeth I display, you can tell whether I am smiling or being aggressive. When I smile, you can only see my front teeth, and when I snarl and roll back my lips, you can see all of my teeth and gums.

My ears are another indicator of what I am trying to communicate. When my ears are erect, it indicates that I am concentrating on something. When I fear something I lay my ears back. When I am happy, I put my ears forward and pant lightly.

When I bark, I'm trying to scare a stranger away and also trying to let my mom and dad know that something is wrong. I also bark when I am playing. When I am excited or playing, my barks are sharp and short. If I am stressed or anxious, my bark is high pitched and repetitive. If I am lonely, I howl mournfully. If I want to communicate with another dog I bark repeatedly in the same mid range tone. When I growl, it is to warn people or other dogs to leave me alone or to threaten my “sisters” to mind their manners. If I am outside and I howl, particularly if it is an undulating howl, I am trying to communicate long distance with another dog I have heard. If I yawn, it usually means I am sleepy, or bored. However, if I yawn repeatedly it means that I am stressed about something, or in pain.

If I lift a forelimb and make a scratching movement in the air, it means I want to play. If I stamp my front feet it means I am excited. If I stamp my front feet and yip, it means that you are supposed to do something for me, usually give me a treat for something I have done that should be rewarded.

If I lift my paw and hold it out to you it means I want to exchange a handshake with you. If I want something, I will scratch it. If I look at something and tilt my head, it means I am concentrating on what I am looking at and trying to determine what it is. If my head is tilted but I am not looking at anything in particular, it means that I am trying to identify something that I have heard. If I go to the door and whine, it means I have to go out. If I go to the food bowl and it is empty, I will either bark while looking at it, whine while looking at it or pick it up and bring it to you. I also use these tactics if my water bowl is empty. If you are eating something and it smells real good, I will lick my lips and I may even bark, whine or yip to try and get you to share it with me.

If I stand facing you with my legs spread apart and my muscles bunched, then I am warning you to either back away or stay away from me.

If I am looking at you and I raise my eyebrows, it means either I am waiting for you to say something or if you have said something, I don't understand what you want me to do. If I draw my eyebrows down into a frown, I'm puzzled by something. If my eyes get big and round and my eyebrows go up, it means I'm surprised or startled by something.

If I want to play with you, I will bring a toy to you and stand there wagging my tail. Many of us can be trained to play catch, to fetch thrown objects, to catch frizzbies, to play fly-ball or to compete in agility competitions. “Mitzi” the first dog mom and dad had after they married, could play hide and go seek, ride a skateboard and a toboggan and stand on her hind legs and dance. Spend time with your dog and you will be amazed at what he or she can communicate to you.

Until next time,

Teia

CURING YOUR CAT'S BAD BREATH

Bad breath in a pet is usually associated with dogs, however, if you happen to own a cat with bad breath, you will know that it smells awful. Usually, bad breath is caused by bacteria in the mouth which breaks down protein in your cat's food releasing sulphur compounds into the air. Since sulphur has a foul odour, when your cat opens its mouth this sulphur smell is released. The bacteria responsible for the release of the sulphur smell is the kind which is associated with a buildup of tartar on your cat's teeth. Tartar, which also forms on human teeth, is yellow or greenish yellow in colour and it is made up of minerals in the cat's saliva which adhere to plaque on the surface of the cat's teeth. Once the tartar builds up on your cat's teeth, it becomes very hard and it is difficult to remove. Severe cases will require professional removal, which is quite expensive. The best way to eliminate it is to catch it in its early stage when use of pet toothpaste with anti tartar enzymes can, if used daily, virtually prevent the formation of dental plaque which will, in turn, eliminate the formation of tartar because it will not have the plaque to anchor it to the teeth. There are now cat foods that are designed to reduce the buildup of tartar. Some cat treats apparently have enzymes that will dissolve dental plaque eliminating the formation of tartar. Before considering these foods and treats, consult with your veterinarian to ascertain that these enzymes do not cause other medical problems for your beloved pet.

As mentioned above, if you catch it early enough, that is before the tartar becomes as hard as cement, you may be able to clean the tartar off your cat’s teeth at home. There are several toothpastes available for pets, in several different flavors, which are designed to prevent the formation of plaque and thus prevent tartar buildup. You can remove it with a basic toothbrush, but you will probably find that an electric toothbrush is much better, because the motion of these brushes is better at removing plaque. If you start when your cat is young and easier to handle, you will have more success. Brushing your cat's teeth will not be easy, but it will prevent the buildup of plaque and thus prevent the bad breath associated with the formation of tartar. Note! You must ensure that you use PET toothpaste. Human toothpaste contains chemicals that must be spit out. Since neither cats or dogs can spit like a human, they have to swallow the toothpaste. If you have ever accidentally swallowed human toothpaste, you know that it makes you quite ill. Doing so on a daily basis as your pet would have to do could lead to many very serious maladies.

Some of the bacteria that leads to plaque and tartar buildup can be found in your cat’s diet. Because of this, make sure you feed him premium food and that you brush his teeth or rinse his mouth out after he eats. This way, you’ll get the bacteria out of his mouth before it has time to build up on his teeth.

Another reason for consulting your veterinarian when you detect a bad odour on your cat's breath is that sometimes, in rare cases, the cause of the bad breath could be caused by either liver or kidney disease. So, if you notice bad breath coming from your cat, you should take him or her to your vet. Even though it may be something to do with tartar, it’s better to be safe than sorry. Your veterinarian can pinpoint the problem, let you know what the cause is and how you should go about fixing it.

Until next time,

Teia

CAT HEALTH PROBLEMS

When my dad was growing up in a rural area of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada, cats were hardy animals that seldom suffered any illnesses. They usually passed on from old age, being struck by a motor vehicle on the Island Highway or being shot by an annoyed neighbour. However, over the last forty or so years, with the advent of commercial cat food and “selective” breeding, cat diseases are becoming fairly common. The only one that he can recall, from his childhood, is the first one on my list.

1. WORMS.

All breeds of cats are very susceptible to worms. Tapeworms, roundworms, and hookworms are the most common worms found in cats. Often, kittens are born with worms, or get them shortly after birth. Therefore, if your cat has recently had kittens, or if you have recently obtained a kitten, it is suggested that you consult a veterinarian (vet) about worming your kitten(s). If your cat is lethargic, has trouble gaining weight, or has white specks in its stool, have it checked for worms by a vet. Worms can be eliminated by medication, but if left untreated they can prove to be fatal to your cat.

2. HAIRBALLS.

Although not a disease, hair balls cause health problems in many cats, particularly in cats with long hair. Since most cats spend a considerable amount of time each day grooming themselves, usually by licking their fur or licking their paws and then rubbing the damp paw on their fur, they normally swallow hair in the process. As a result, sometimes the long hair forms into a ball and blocks the cat's intestines, instead of passing through the cat with its stool. If your cat shows signs of straining when attempting to have a bowel movement, particularly if it is also coughing and gagging a lot, take it to your vet as it probably has a hairball. With proper treatment most hairballs can be eliminated. Untreated, hairballs can lead to serious health problems and even death.

The easiest way to eliminate the possibility of hairballs is to brush your cat two to three times a week. This will remove most of the loose hair that could end up in your cat's stomach. Apparently, there is now cat food that is supposed to prevent hairballs from forming. Before considering the use of this food, you should consult your vet. Ingredients ingested to prevent the formation of hairballs could prove to be more harmful than helpful.

3, URINARY TRACT INFECTIONS.

Many cats suffer from urinary tract infections. Interestingly, urinary tract infections are more prevalent in male cats that haven't been neutered, although it also occurs in female cats, but with less frequency. Symptoms to watch out for are:

a. The cat stops using the litter box and starts urinating in other places.

b. The cat appears to have problems urinating and when it goes there is blood in the urine.

c. The cat's urine smells very strong.

I'm a dog and as a puppy and a young adult, I suffered from urinary tract infections and also from kidney stones. My vet determined that my problems were caused by my diet. I was put on a more acidic diet and my problems went away. So, be sure to take you cat to the vet if you suspect it has a urinary tract infection. Your vet can provide medication to cure the infection and recommend ways to prevent infections from reoccurring.

4. FELINE LEUKAEMIA

This disease is actually misnamed. It is not the cancerous blood disease that humans get, but instead it is a highly contagious virus based disease. It is usually fatal., but if you get your cat vaccinated against this disease and continue getting all required booster shots, it should not be a concern. Death from the disease is not immediate, but once contracted the disease will greatly shorten your cat's lifespan. Any unvaccinated cat exposed to the Feline Leukaemia virus will catch the disease. So, be sure to discuss this disease with your vet and arrange for a vaccination.

5. FELINE ASTHMA.

Approximately one percent of the world wide cat population will catch this allergy related disease, which is incurable. However, with proper veterinarian treatment, you cat could live a nearly normal life. Symptoms to watch out for are wheezing when breathing, coughing and laboured breathing. Consult your vet immediately if your cat exhibits these symptoms.

6. FELINE SPONGIFORM ENCEPHALOPATHY (FSE)

This disease is believed to be caused by eating the meat of a cow with BSE or, as it is more commonly called, “Mad Cow Disease.” Since pet food is primarily made for animals that have died, there is a small chance of your cat getting this disease from its food. However, after the last commercial pet food debacle, there are much more stringent rules in place regarding pet food ingredients used in pet food manufactured in North America. Be very careful of pet foods from other locations as their standards may not be as stringent. FSE does not currently have a treatment available, so a painful death is a certainty unless you have your pet euthanized as soon as it is diagnosed with this disease.

7. FELINE DIABETES

One in 400 cats will be affected by feline diabetes, which usually occurs as a Type 2 insulin dependent version of the disease. Symptoms include sudden weight loss, excessive drinking and urination, lethargy and an appetite that is either non existent or completely ravenous with the cat eating 3 to 4 times its usual volume of food. If detected early enough, treatment could result in complete remission. Those cats that do not go into remission can live a fairly normal life with long lasting insulin shots and a low carbohydrate diet. If your cat exhibits any of the symptoms of this disease, get him or her to a vet as soon as possible.

Take your cat for regular visits to your veterinarian. Get all recommended vaccinations and consider making your cat into an indoor cat and you will have a pet that will live a long and happy life with you.

Until next time,

Teia

A DOG and YOUR LIFESTYLE

If I was to come up to you and ask what affect a dog would have on your lifestyle, you would have a reaction, whether you like dogs or do not care for them. Either way, dogs affect your lifestyle. Dogs and humans have interacted for thousands of years, so rare indeed is the person who does not have an opinion or feelings about man's “best friend.”

Therefore, it is safe to assume that you have had at least one experience with a dog that was either positive or negative. This experience has had an impact on your life, whether you realized it or not. If it was a negative experience, you will be scared or distrustful of dogs and avoid them as much as possible. If it was a positive experience, then you will probably have a pet dog or have done so in the past. If the experience was kind of benign, you may not have formed an opinion one way or the other, however, this type of situation is not typical. Typically, that experience with the dog has left you with a life long emotional feeling regarding dogs.

If you think that dogs are big or small stinky nuisances, then you will probably not have a pet dog and you will never experience the emotion of receiving unconditional love (you may have a great love life, but it will have conditions attached to it). In spite of this, you will have to admit that dogs, or a specific dog, has influenced your current lifestyle. If you are completely honest, and haven't substituted another pet in the place of a dog, you will have to admit that your life is somewhat sterile and maybe, just a little empty, or at least missing a little something.

Now, just for fun, let's look at a hypothetical example to see how your emotions and lifestyle can be changed. For this example, let's say you are a twenties or thirties single person who is career orientated. Because you are so wrapped up in your career, you are probably not at your optimum weight or physical condition. You may have even tried to diet or taken out a membership in a gym, but they didn't work because your lifestyle didn't leave enough time to properly adhere to the regimen required,

One night, you come home tired and just want to get off to bed when you realize that tomorrow is garbage collection day and you must put the garbage in the bin in the back alley. It's raining and quite cold. You grab the garbage you've placed into a garbage bag, pulled on a coat and a raincoat and rushed out to the garbage bin. There, huddled whimpering beside the garbage bin is a little puppy. It appears to be abandoned, and it looks pathetically at you. You don't particularly care for dogs because they don't really fit in your lifestyle. But, this one looks so pathetic and helpless that you feel pity for it and pick it up and take it in out of the wet and cold, just for the night.

Once inside you grab a towel and dry the poor little thing. It licks your hand. Once it's dry, you pour a little milk in one bowl and a few leftovers from the refrigerator in another. The little thing devours everything in minutes, then licks your leg and curls up near your feet. You resolve to arrange for the puppy to go to the place where they put abandoned dogs, but you're not sure if it is the city pound or the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (SPCA). You take the puppy out to relieve itself just before you head to bed. Next morning, just before you head off to work you take puppy out again, then when you come back in you put a few pieces of newspaper on the kitchen floor and head off to work.

Work is a bedlam of calls and demands and you don't have time to find out where to take the little stray. You'll have to keep it another day. On the way home you stop at Walmart and go into the pet department to get some puppy food. The clerk recommends that you take the puppy for a daily walk, so you buy an inexpensive collar and leash.

When you get home, you find that puppy has wet partly on a piece of newspaper and partly on the floor. You put the newspaper in the garbage and wipe the floor. The puppy bounces over and licks the back of your hand.

You put food and water down for puppy and make a quick supper for yourself. Then you put the collar on puppy who is not happy with it at all. She keeps trying to pull it off with a hind leg. After putting your coat on and pocketing a bunch of paper towel and a couple of plastic sandwich bags to pick up any bowel movements, you snap the leash onto the collar and partly lead and partly drag puppy to the door.

Once out on the front sidewalk, puppy rushed off to the end of the leash pulling madly as she explores everything she sees. A couple of gentle tugs on the leash slows her down a little and you make it erratically to the end of the block. You decide to walk around the block a few times. By the time you get around the block the first time she is walking more normally and not pulling as frantically as she was. The second time around the block, she stops and you're glad you brought two plastic bags. You pick up after her and seal the bags to enclose the odour. When you get back to the front door of your building, you realize that you've just walked eight blocks or about eight-tenths of a mile as most city blocks are about one-tenth of a mile in length. Puppy looks tired and you're a little fatigued yourself. You haven't walked that far in quite a while.

The next day at work is another busy one and you don't get time to phone about the puppy, again.

When you get home, there's no mess left by puppy who happily bounds up to you. You bend down to pet puppy and get a sloppy lick on your chin. You feed puppy and yourself and repeat the walk again. Your legs area a little stiff and sore from the unusual exercise and puppy is much more manageable.

This routine continues for the rest of the week and by Friday, you find, much to your amazement, that you've become quite attached to puppy and can't bear the thought of her going into a cage at the pound or the SPCA. Since you've decided to keep her, you give her a name and get some toys and some piddle pads in case she has to go when you are out. The walks continue and the length of them has increased to three times around the block. “Taffy” has grown a bit and always greets you enthusiastically when you get home from work.

About a month goes by and you notice that your clothes are not fitting as well as they did. They all seem to have stretched. You step on the bathroom scale and are shocked to see you have lost ten pounds. You realize that your daily walks with “Taffy” have resulted in a loss of weight and then you also realize that you are not nearly as stressed or “up tight” as you had been.

“Taffy,” the little stray you were going to put in the pound or SPCA (you're still not sure who looks after strays in your city), has helped you to reduce your weight and make you a happier and less stressed person. She has also provided you with attention and plenty of affection. Quite a reward for taking her in. And to top it off, she has changed your lifestyle and possibly your whole future.

Although the above was a fictional account, get yourself a dog and see if it doesn't make you into a whole different person...I dare you!

Until next time,

Teia


PS. Let me know if a dog has changed your lifestyle.

Dog Breeds: The Bull Mastiff

The Bull Mastiff was originally a cross between an English Mastiff and an Old English Bulldog which was bred to protect the game and the gamekeepers on English estates. Because of its speed and strength, not only did it provide protection for the game and gamekeepers, but it was also used to find and capture poachers without mauling or killing them.

The optimum cross, which originated in the mid to late 1800's is 60 percent English Mastiff and 40 percent Old English Bulldog (this is not the English Bulldog of today, as the Old English Bulldog was taller, heavier and much sturdier than today's breed). In 1924, the English Kennel Club (EKC) recognized the Bull Mastiff as a separate breed. In 1933, the American Kennel Club (AKC) followed and then set the first breed standard for the Bull Mastiff in 1935. The current standard is available on the AKC website (http://www.akc.org/).

Bull Mastiffs are bred to be confident, yet docile. They are courageous and extremely protective of their human family. They have proven to be a popular family pet because they are loving and calm. However, they can become aggressive if a member of their human family is threatened or harmed. Bull Mastiffs that have been properly trained and socialized get along with children extremely well, but parental supervision should be maintained because, like any large dog, they may accidentally knock a small child down when they turn or move quickly.

Bull Mastiffs are fawn, red or brindle in colour. A little bit of white on the chest is acceptable, but white should not appear elsewhere. Their muzzle should be black. These dogs should be 24 to 27 inches tall at the withers and weigh 90 to 130 pounds. Their lifespan is eight to 12 years.

Bull Mastiffs are prone to the following hereditary diseases:

Hip and elbow dysplasia, entropion, hypothyroidism, lymphoma cancer, progressive retinal atrophy, arthritis and bloat.

If you would like a large, calm, loving dog, then you should check to see if a Bull Mastiff fits into your lifestyle.

Until next time,

Teia