Monday, June 15, 2009

Unusual Pets - Goats


Could I have your attention please? If you will allow me to butt in, I would like to clear up some of the tales, myths and rumors about goats and goat milk.

Goats are friendly, intelligent, full of personality and they can be a lot of fun. If you get to interact with a goat, every rumor you've heard about goats will be blown away. You'd probably want to keep a few goats yourself, if you don't already do so.

Goats are easier to handle than cows because they require less work, feed and housing space. As a matter of fact, you can transport a doe (a female goat) for breeding, in the trunk of your car. Try doing that with a one ton heifer.

There is no in between with goats. You either love them or hate them. However, the hate is hard to understand, unless it stems from the mass of tales, myths and rumors that abound concerning goats.

Many people have never even seen a live goat and yet they seem to have opinions about them. Perhaps it comes from the myths and tales that originated in cartoons, comic strips and ill-informed story books. One of the tales many people believe about goats is that they smell terrible. This tale probably originated from the aroma of the buck (a male goat) during mating season. And you really don’t want to know why they smell so foul at that time of year.

However, this should be of little concern since most people do not keep their own buck. The does do not smell. As a matter of fact, if given the opportunity to keep themselves clean, does are less smelly than a lot of dogs.

Another tale that needs to be clipped is "goats will eat anything, including tin cans." One of the problems here is that goats are unlike most other animals folks are used to. Not only are they not carnivorous like dogs and cats, they aren't really grazers like cattle and sheep either. They are more closely related to deer.

This means that not only do goats prefer trees and bushes to grass, but they also take a bite here and a nibble there. And yes, that will include your shirttail or anything else that looks interesting. But as far as tin cans go, they may eat the labels off them, but I have never met anyone that has actually seen them eat or attempt to eat a tin can. And, after all, paper is made from trees and goats do like trees.

Now let's talk about goat milk. Many people have a false impression that goat milk tastes strong, or goaty. While it is true that some goats have off-flavored milk, just like some cows do (usually due to diet), most goat milk is quite mild flavored, especially when it is cold. Goat milk is very healthy for you. When Dad was a child, he suffered from bronchitis. His family doctor recommended that his mother get a goat and feed him plenty of goat milk. Within six months his bronchitis was cured and he has never had an attack since. However, you must remember that goat milk is a very healthy food, not a medicine.

Goat milk is very similar to homogenized cow milk. Raw cow milk has a heavy layer of cream (fat) on the top. To mix the cream into the cow milk it is homogenized (thoroughly mixed together). Most people can't tell the difference between goat milk and homogenized cow milk, unless they're told. However, goat milk is more easily digested than cow milk. This is very important in cases where infants, especially, are allergic to cow milk. But for all practical purposes the two types of milk are the same.

Another myth that needs to be blown away is the myth surrounding the richness of goat milk. In actual fact, goat milk is no richer than cow milk. Just as there is a wide difference in butterfat content among individual cows, between breeds and at different seasons of the year, it's the same for goats. One reason that this myth seems to continue is that cow milk sold in stores as well as being homogenized also has had most of its butterfat removed. Most cow milk is 1 or 2 percent butterfat. Goat milk on the other hand seldom has its butterfat, which is traditionally less than that in cow milk, removed.

Now here's a fact, not a tale. More people in the world drink goat milk regularly than cow milk. Only in the United States and Canada and to some extent Great Britain and Australia, is the less efficient cow favored.

Goat dairying as a commercial enterprise has never taken off in the United States or Canada mainly because there has not been a great demand for goats or goat milk. However, that seems to be changing as our population changes and grows.

No one knows how many goats there are in the United States because most of the goats are on homesteads rather than large farms and homesteaders aren't invited to participate in the agricultural census. Similarly, large herds of goats in Canada are few and far between. However, herds of four to ten exist on farms all over the country. As a result, instead of classifying goats as dairy animals, in North America they are treated more like pets.

The interest in goats and goat milk continues to slowly climb because more folks are becoming intent on doing more with less. Also, as the population becomes more health conscious, people are learning the advantages of drinking goat milk.

In summary, the dairy goat is coming into the respect and appreciation that it so truly deserves. Try some cold goat milk and learn how enjoyable a beverage it is.

Until next time,

Teia

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Why You Should Train Your Golden Retriever to Stay


Most of the problems you will have with your Golden Retriever will be caused by a combination of his intelligence, energy and desire to please. It is important to train your Golden to stay because his excess energy can cause him to run off in an instant if he gets loose. It's not that he wants to escape, it's just that his desire to romp overcomes his desire to stay with you.

One of the first steps in training your Golden is to establish you as the "alpha dog" or "pack leader.” Because the Golden Retriever is a fairly large dog, having him properly trained is especially important as many people are afraid of large dogs and will shy away from an uncontrollable over exuberant dog. It doesn't matter that Goldens are not aggressive dogs. Good training will make your dog more welcome wherever you go.

Pay attention to your dog and make eye contact often. When your dog does something right, look him in the eye, give him verbal praise and offer a treat, in that order. For example, when your dog sits (whether by command or not), make eye contact, say "good sit" and give him a treat.

Goldens are very sensitive dogs. They do not do well with scolding or punishment. It's better to identify the good behavior and reward that, rather than use negativity.

Your dog can learn to stay from any position, lying down, sitting or standing. Eventually you will want to train him to stay from all of these positions.

With your dog on a leash, stand to his right, place your hand in front of his face, palm toward him and say "stay.” Step away from your dog with your right foot first as stepping with the left foot encourages the dog to move too. Take two steps, turn and face him.

Give him the hand signal again, hand right in front of his face with the fingers pointing up and repeat "stay.” Return to his side and say "ok." Then say "good stay" and give him a treat.

Over time, increase the length of time you hold up your hand and increase the distance you walk away from him. Eventually, walk the full length of the leash away, hold up your hand and repeat "stay.”

Always return to his side. Reward him if he continues to do as he is told.

Starting with “little baby steps” that you can reward with a "good stay" and a treat are much more valuable at first than trying unsuccessfully for a longer time or distance.

Are you worried about spoiling your dog with too many rewards? Are you concerned that he won't obey without them? As long as you never show the treat to your dog before he exhibits the desired behavior, you don't need to worry. A rule of thumb with Goldens, since they are so sensitive and so eager to please, is pick your battles and bribe shamelessly.

You can overdo training, so keep each session fairly short. If you can, repeat training sessions several times a day. Use reward-based training or, if you prefer, clicker-based training, rather than discipline training for your Golden. As previously mentioned Golden Retrievers do not respond well to discipline based training.

It is very important that your Golden Retriever learn the sit and stay commands thoroughly. A Golden Retriever is a fairly large dog and it is much better if they sit rather than jump up and try to lick the face of a child. Young children are easily knocked over by happy Goldens!

When you feel that your dog has learned to stay well, vary the circumstances. Make sure he can stay from a sitting, laying, or standing position. Practice inside and outside, around other dogs and other people. Try to distract him with a rolling ball or have someone else call him. You aren't being mean and you are not trying to trick him. You are simply helping him to understand better what you mean by "stay” and he will be deliriously happy when he knows he's got it right.

Here's a bonus tip specific to Golden Retrievers, but you be the judge if it's appropriate for your dog, retriever or not. Retrievers like carrying things in their mouths; many of them have favorite toys they don't like to be without. If your dog is having trouble concentrating during a training session, you can try letting him hold his favorite stuffed toy in his mouth. If he thinks it's playtime, it won't work, but often it calms him and gives him a focus. A friend, Rick, lets his Golden, “Emma,” carry one of his gloves. This keeps his smell close and makes her more responsive to his commands.

With these few tips and techniques under your belt, your training sessions with your sunny-tempered Golden can be quite fun and pleasurable for both of you.

Until next time,

Teia

Friday, June 12, 2009

Caring for Your Chihuahua


Well, you have just returned from the pet store with your Chihuahua puppy. You sit down and start looking around for the owner's manual . . . What no owner's manual?

Unfortunately your cute little puppy, like a human baby, doesn't come with an owner's manual. So, it is up to YOU to learn how to care for this charming creature. However, until you get up to speed with your learning program, this article will help you on your way.

Chihuahuas, are a good breed for small homes, apartments or city dwellers, because they are very small dogs and are mainly house pets. You should NEVER let them outdoors by themselves. They do not know they are tiny and will challenge the biggest dog on the block because they are very protective and extremely self confident. If you take your pet outside, make sure he is on a harness and leash and do not leave him unattended. There have been unconfirmed reports of these little dogs being carried off by large birds of prey and coyotes.

Care and feeding.

You should consult your veterinarian about the nutritional needs of your puppy but after weaning (up to six weeks), puppies should be fed four small meals a day until three months old; from three months to six months they should be fed three meals a day and from six months to a year they should be fed twice a day. After one year, once a day is fine, however, Chihuahuas prefer several small meals as opposed to one big meal per day with regular adult dog food. Sometimes, canned food is difficult for this breed to digest, resulting in diarrhea, so you may want to avoid the use of canned food.

Bathing your puppy should be done about once a month. Bathing too often may remove the natural oils from the coat and result in dandruff. Shampooing on a monthly basis can actually enhance the sheen of the coat. Be careful not to get water into your dog`s ears, as an infection could develop.

Technically speaking, Chihuahuas remain puppies for about two years. This is the training period and you should begin training as soon as you get him settled in your home (about two days). To assist you in raising your puppy please refer to the following entries:
April 3, 2009, "When Should You Start Training a Puppy"
April 28, 2009,"An Overview of Dog Training"
May 10, 2009, "How to Stop Your Puppy From Jumping Up"
May 15, 2009, "How to Potty Train Your New Puppy"
May 27, 2009, "Teach Your Child to be Safe With a Puppy"
May 28, 2009, "10 Foods You Should NEVER Feed Your Dog"
May 30, 2009, "A Guide to House Training Your Puppy"
June 1, 2009, "Dog Ownership Resonsibilities"
June 2, 2009, "The Rewards of Training Your Dog"
June 9, 2009, "Training Your Dog to Sit."

Puppies and adults should have access to fresh clean water at all times. His bowls should be scrubbed, at least once every couple of days, with very hot water, but avoid using dish soap as the odor and residue may cause him to shy away.

Trimming your puppy's nails should be a monthly event. You can use a cat claw trimmer and it is best to start this nail-trimming routine early-on so that your dog becomes accustomed to the clipping of the nails and to the use of the trimmer. If you feel that you are unable to trim your dog`s nails, you can get your dog`s groomer to do it, or you can have it done by your veterinarian.

Consult your veterinarian on the periodic cleaning of your Chihuahua's ears and teeth and regular vaccinations.

It is best to visit a local veterinarian when your puppy is eight or nine weeks of age. Your puppy will probably need additional vaccinations. You should bring the puppy's vaccination record that you received when you purchased him. If you did not get a vaccination record, return to the location where you purchased your puppy and see if they have the record. If they do not, find out the name of the veterinarian who administered the first vaccinations to your puppy and request a vaccination record from that vet.

At your first visit to the veterinarian with your puppy, he should either be de-wormed or given a fecal test for worms or other parasites. The de-worming is less hassle and expense than the test and will not harm your pup.

The veterinarian may suggest that you brush your pet’s teeth. The small breeds like the Chihuahua have more dental problems than the standard and larger breeds. Obviously the anatomies of the smaller breeds have left the teeth more crowded in the jaw and, with little space between the teeth, enable more harmful bacteria to remain in the mouth, hence the need for brushing.

Also, you should be aware of the fact Chihuahuas are prone to weak knees. This problem may occur as your pet gets older. If your Chihuahua has trouble walking, take him to the vet immediately.

Try to stay with the same veterinarian or treatment facility and keep good records. It is important for your pet's health.

You must remember that this is just an introductory part of your "owner's manual" to start you off on the right path to giving quality care to your puppy. You should learn more from books and other Chihuahua owners.

More importantly, your Chihuahua needs much tender loving care with human contact, touching, petting and general attention.

Chihuahuas are by nature gentle, loyal and sweet-tempered and they will give a lot of love and affection to you in return for your care. You will never be alone with a Chihuahua in your household.

Until next time,

Teia

PS. Refer to an entry made March 24, 2009, titled “Dog Breeds – The Chihuahua” for more information on these marvelous little dogs. Also learn about "Frank," my hero.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Unusual Pets – Gerbils


When manufacturers of pet supplies came out with fantastic houses, tunnels, wheels and other devices for Gerbils, Guinea Pigs, Hampsters, mice and rats, these rodents began to appear as pets in houses around the world. What were considered as rarities a number of years ago are now available in just about every pet store. This posting features the behavior of Gerbils and how to understand what they are doing.

Gerbils are popular pets and can provide hours of fun as you watch their antics. Part of this comes from the fact that they are inquisitive creatures, almost to the point of being recklessly foolish. A new smell or object entering their cage will bring them out of their houses or tunnels. Often if there is a strange noise a Gerbil is more likely to come out of hiding for a look than cower in a safe place.

Gerbils communicate via high-pitched squeaking sounds, often when they are playing or frightened. These are usually inaudible to humans, but very young or old Gerbils tend to squeak louder and more in the range of human hearing.

Gerbils also communicate by many nonverbal signals. By observing their body language you should be able to determine what your pet is trying to “say”.

When Gerbils meet, they often put their noses together and it looks like they are rubbing noses. However, if you look very closely at this greeting action, you will see that they are actually licking each other's mouths. The reason for this, is that Gerbils recognize each other by the taste of the other's saliva.

Another common Gerbal action is called 'drumming'. During this action, the Gerbil stands up and quickly thumps the ground with its hind legs. Drumming can either be a warning signal to other members of the group when danger approaches, or a courting behavior between males and females. Drumming is a learned action and you will sometimes see young gerbils imitating their parents even when there is no danger around.

An excited Gerbil will often leap into the air with all four feet off the ground. Boxing like swings of the front paws sometimes accompany this leap. These boxing movements are usually playful, but sometimes they lead to something more serious. When Gerbils fight they usually start out boxing each other and then switch to head butting before starting to wrestle.

Frequently your Gerbil will sit upright. While sitting, if it sniffs and moves its head up and down, it is just being curious. However, if it stands in a frozen position, with its paws folded as if praying, then the Gerbil is frightened.

When a Gerbil rolls in front of another Gerbil and offers its throat, it is asking for a cleaning session. The recipient of this action usually finds this an irresistible request and a thorough cleaning session ensues. If you see a Gerbil thoroughly grooming itself, it is a sign that it is relaxed and happy.

Gerbils are usually sociable animals, however, they can become irritated and want to be left alone. This will usually result in the Gerbil pushing others away with its head. When in this “mood,” it will even push your hand away in this fashion.

An understanding of your pet gGerbils' body language will add to your enjoyment of these friendly creatures and assist you in taking care of their well being.

Until next time,

Teia

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Unusual Pets – Turtles


Turtles have fascinated people for a long time. Unfortunately, this interest has lead to many turtles becoming targets of unscrupulous individuals who attempt to smuggle them into countries where demand is high. Not only does this lead to the unnecessary dealth of many turtles, but it endangers the population and health of native turtles. That is because turtles from other countries carry diseases and parasites that native turtles have never previously been exposed to. As a result, many native species are now in serious trouble.

If you have a genuine interest in owning a turtle as a pet, there are things you should know about the situation turtles face and how you can protect them from extinction and harm.

IS OWNING A TURTLE ILLEGAL?

Owning a turtle in Canada or the United States is legal unless you obtained it illegally. If you live in a country other than Canada or the United States, check with your local authorities to find out what the laws are regarding possession of a turtle. Laws to restrict the selling of turtles have two purposes.

1. Baby turtles once commonly sold as pets were identified as a health risk because of the Salmonella bacteria that is present on their shells and bodies. Because of this, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States banned the selling of turtles with a shell less than 4 inches in size. This obviously includes eggs and hatchlings of all species.

2. Many turtle species are endangered and most states have laws regarding the selling of turtles captured in the wild.

If you do own or purchase a turtle you may have to obtain a permit. Not having the proper permits can be considered a crime. So, if you live in the United States, check with your state officials to learn the rules applicable to your particular state.

WHERE SHOULD YOU GO TO FIND A TURTLE FOR A PET?

Never buy a turtle when you are in a foreign country. Dealers are not concerned with how you will get your turtle home. When you get to the airport in your home country you could be held responsible for illegally importing a turtle from another country.

At times the turtles available for sale have been illegally captured in the wild. These turtles have undergone extreme stress by being captured, held captive in small, crowded spaces with other turtles and often neglected, subsisting on meager food and unclean water.

These turtles, who may have enjoyed decades of life in the wild, may live no longer than two years in captivity due to the ill health caused by their capture and lack of care. Individuals who buy from these commercial sellers are inadequately informed on the care and cost of owning a turtle. Serious health problems arise, which are often undetected until expensive treatment is required, or in extreme situations, treatment is ineffective and the turtle dies.

In Canada, there are several breeders who breed and raise turtles for the pet store trade. If you buy your turtle at a pet store, be sure to keep the receipt so that you can prove that you got the turtle from a legitimate source. Other countries may have specific laws covering turtles so before considering one for a pet, check with your local authorities to see if you can legally own a turtle in your country.

Joining local or online groups that are interested in the proper care of turtles can put you in touch with hobbyists and placement agencies which find homes for captive turtles and hatchlings that are in need of a home with a loving owner. It will also put you in contact with individuals knowledgeable about the care required by your unique pet.

Until next time,

Teia

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Training Your Dog to Sit


Mom and dad were talking to a neigbour the other day and she asked them how to train her new puppy to sit. Dad told me about it and I thought that it would be a good article to do for the blog since training your dog to "sit" is probably the first thing you will train your puppy to do. In fact it was the first thing I learned and mom and dad started teaching me as soon as I got settled in my new home. You might think that training a dog to sit isn't that important because they do it all on their own quite frequently. However, learning to sit on command is very important. Read on and you will find out why it is important and how to train your dog to do it.

1. This first step in this training program is easy. You just start by saying "sit" every time the puppy sits itself. He learns to associate the word sit with the action. This is a tip you can use in all training.

2. Take out a treat, his favorite treat if you know what it is and keep it in your hand. Anything that is tasty and won’t make a mess in your pocket usually works well but remember to cut it in small pieces so the puppy can swallow it fast. Mom and dad found that “Chicken Tenders,” dehydrated chicken breast, cut into little pieces was a great puppy treat for all occasions. It's healthy for me and I really enjoy it.

3. Sit down on the floor so you get to nearly the same level as your puppy. You are less threatening when you sit. More important is that you are closer to him so you can reward him more quickly. More about that in a moment.

4. Slowly move the treat over your puppy's head. The intention is to get the puppy to smell the treat (he will) and follow it with his nose. He has two options. Either back up while standing or sit down. It's easier to sit down.

5. Immediately as he sits you say "sit" and give him the piece of treat. This is the key factor to all training. The reward has to be given to him in exactly the same moment as the dog does the right thing.

6. Praise the dog. Show your happiness with your voice as well as your body language.

7. Repeat these steps 3-5 times and then take a break. You want this training to be fun for your puppy and if you keep doing it over and over for a long period of time, the puppy will get tired, lose interest and rebel against the training. However, you can repeat the steps several times during the day, as long as you only do it 3 to 5 times and then take a lengthy break.

8. Once your puppy does this repeatedly, you can try to see if the dog reacts only to the word "sit" without your hand and the treat. If he sits down you obviously should praise him and give him a treat. Once he does this repeatedly, see if he will continue doing it with only the praise, but without the treat. If he doesn't, don't show disappointment. Just go back a step or two in the training and start over. You should never show your disappointment to your dog when you are training. Once your puppy will sit on command, stand up and try it again. Once he responds to the sit command with you standing you can go onto the next step.

Now you can try to make him sit down beside you. This is actually a preparation for the heel training. There you want him to sit as soon as you stop walking.

The next level is to strengthen the word so you get the dog to sit in every situation no matter what's going on around him. This is an ongoing process and you should never stop training. Use every new situation to train him. Make him sit with new people, new dogs and new surroundings.

It's quite easy to train your dog to sit. If you consider not training your dog, my advice is think again. When you start training with your new puppy you get much more than the sitting part. The puppy loves to do things with you. He learns to listen to his name. He gets used to training and doing things with you and on your initiative. This strengthens your position as the leader and the puppy feels secure. When the puppy falls asleep in the evening his last thoughts should be: "This is a really great pack!"

Until next time,

Teia

Monday, June 8, 2009

Training Your Cat to Use the Toilet


Cats are wonderful pets, but cleaning the litter box can be a real drag. But what if you could train kitty to use the toilet? Instead of dealing with messy, smelly litter, you could get rid of your cat’s elimination with just one flush.

When training your cat to use the toilet, it's best if you have two toilets in the house. Using one just for the cat and one for yourself during the training period will make things much more convenient, although you can train your cat with only one toilet.

For toilet training your cat, you will need an aluminum tray that fits into the toilet and an aluminum tray as a replacement for his litter box. The idea is to get him used to the aluminum tray in the same spot his box is usually in and then the tray in the toilet won't seem so foreign.

Keep the litter box in its original spot but replace the box with the aluminum tray instead. Use the same litter and keep everything else the same. Once the cat is used to this new arrangement, start gradually switching the litter to flushable litter. Once the cat is used to the flushable litter, you are ready for the next step.

Gradually move the litter box closer to the toilet. Don't move it too far each time and make sure your cat knows where it is by taking her over to it and scratching her paws in it. If your cat stops using the box, you are probably going too fast for her, so slow down. Training a cat to use a litter box is a process that takes a long time, so patience is key.

Once the cat is using the litter box next to the toilet, raise it an inch off the floor. Make sure you use something that will keep the box stable and that the box will not slide off. Gradually, every third or fourth day, raise the box an inch higher, until it is level with the toilet. As it gets higher the cat will have to jump up into it, so it is critical that the box is stable, if it tips over this will scare your cat and she might not want to use it again.

At this point, you should have the tray ready in the toilet. You can use a cooking tray that is wide enough to fit the toilet. Put the tray in between that seat ring and the toilet base - make sure this holds it in place. Put some of the flushable litter the cat is used to in the tray.

Leave the litter box level with the tray in the toilet for a couple of weeks, gradually taking away the litter in the box. Eventually, the cat should just jump up and use the tray on the toilet. Once this is happening regularly, take the litter box away.

The next step is to gradually reduce the amount of litter that is in the tray on the toilet. Also, make a little hole in the tray. Each day, reduce the litter more and make the hole a bit bigger. Do not move too fast on this or your cat might not feel comfortable using it. Eventually, you can remove the tray altogether and your cat will be toilet trained!

Since your cat needs to balance on the toilet seat eventually, it is not recommended that you train cats that are too young. Wait until your cat is about six months old so that she is big enough to balance on the toilet seat. One important point that should be obvious, is that once your cat starts using the toilet - you MUST leave the toilet lid open at all times - the cat can't open it herself.

Be patient as this training process can take several months, but when your cat is trained you will have eliminated the smell and mess of a litter box. Now the only problem you will have is remembering to knock next time you want to use the bathroom as your cat may be using the toilet.

My mom and dad have never personally trained a cat to use the bathroom, but they have known people who have been successful at doing this. They also have a friend that trained her rabbits to use the toilet. If you decide to try training your cat to use the toilet, you may want to consider putting a child’s toilet seat into the regular seat before putting the tray on the toilet under the seat. The hole in a child’s seat is smaller than an adult toilet seat so there will be less chance of your cat falling into the toilet. Having a bigger landing area for the cat when it jumps up is also a benefit as the cat will feel safer.

Until next time,

Teia